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PREFACE.
The growing importance of the states of Illinois and Missouri -- their mineral and vegetable riches -- the fact that numbers are in different ways interested in their prosperity, and that in our country, a correct knowledge of its component parts is necessary to all classes and descriptions of its citizens, are my apologies for appearing before the public.
Under the impression, that a more detailed description of these states than had hitherto been published, would be useful, and perhaps interesting, I commenced, shortly after my removal to Missouri in 1819, the collection of materials for the present work. I travelled over a considerable portion of these states, and became acquainted with a number of intelligent gentlemen, residing in different parts of them, who afforded me much assistance in the prosecution of my design. The different state officers, also, were so obliging as to allow me the privilege of perusing many valuable documents in their offices, and making such extracts from them as I desired. By these means I acquired the greater part of the information which is contained in the following pages. In the mean time, my visit to New-York gave me an opportunity of consulting many works which I was elsewhere unable to obtain. In the very valuable library of the Historical Society, to which I had access, I found, with few exceptions, all the earlier, as well as modern authors who treated of that part of Louisiana and the western country now the states of Illinois and Missouri. Although these works for the most part consisted of the narrations of travellers or general descriptions, they afforded me the means of comparing my own observations, and of adding their descriptions of such places as I had either neglected, or had been unable to visit. From the works of Marquette, Hennepin, Tonti, and Charlevoix, I obtained many interesting facts concerning the history of these states, which I have presented in a condensed form. From the more recent works of Stoddard, Brackenridge, the travels of Lewis and Clark, Pike, and Bradbury, I have also derived much assistance. In treating of the lead mines and minerals of Missouri, I have constantly referred to the "View of the Lead Mines of Missouri," published by Mr. Schoolcraft in 1820.
As my object was to present a comprehensive view of all that is at present known concerning these states, I also consulted several valuable papers which fell within the scope of my plan, contained in the American Journal of Science and the Arts, edited by Professor Silliman.
The map which is prefixed to this work, was protracted from manuscript surveys obtained at St. Louis and Vandalia, to which I made such additions as were from time to time received through the kindness of my friends. The county boundaries in Missouri, are the result of a laborious examination of all the territorial and state laws on the subject, to the present year.
The map of St. Louis contains a plan of the fortification proposed for its defence in 1780, by Lieut. Colonel Crusat, which I found in the possession of one of the old
inhabitants of that place. I have also added a plan of the ancient works in the vicinity, from actual survey, in which I was assisted by W. A. Hamilton, Esquire, of Illinois.
The kindness and hospitality with which I have every where been treated while travelling through these states, and particularly at St. Louis and Vandalia, and the promptness with which their citizens have always furnished me with such information as they possessed, deserve my warmest thanks. I shall ever fondly cherish the recollection, although it is mingled with pain, that many of those who took the deepest and most lively interest in the success of this work, are now numbered with the dead.
Although the Gazetteer has engaged my attention nearly three years, and no labour has been spared to render it accurate, I am not so sanguine as to suppose that it is entirely free from errors. But when the candid reader reflects, that the states which are here treated of are as yet but thinly populated, and have been but partially explored, he will be fully sensible of the difficulties I had to contend with, and I doubt not will extend his indulgence accordingly.
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GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL
VIEW
OF THE
STATE OF ILLINOIS
ARRANGED UNDER THE FOLLOWING HEADS:
SITUATION, BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT -- FACE OF THE COUNTRY -- RIVERS -- LAKES, CANAL BETWEEN LAKE MICHIGAN AND THE ILLINOIS RIVER -- VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS -- ANIMAL -- MINERALS -- CLIMATE -- NATURAL CURIOSITIES -- ANTIQUITIES -- LAND DISTRICTS -- GOVERNMENT -- EDUCATION -- HISTORY.
SITUATION, BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT. -- The state of Illinois is situated between 37° and 42° 80' N. Lat. and 10° 20' and 14° 20' W Long. -- It is bounded north by Michigan Territory; east by Michigan Territory, and the states of Indiana and Kentucky; south by Kentucky and Missouri; west by the territory and state of Missouri. Its medium length is about 350 miles, and medium breadth about 170, the area being about 59,500 square miles, or 38,080,000 square acres. The act of congress admitting this state into the union, prescribes the boundaries as follows: -- Beginning at the mouth of the Wabash river; thence Up the middle of the main channel thereof, to the point where a line due north of Vincennes last crosses that stream; thence due north to 42° 80' N. Lat.; thence due west to the Mississippi river; thence down the middle of the main channel thereof, to the mouth of the Ohio river; thence up the latter stream along its northern or right shore, to the place of beginning.
FACE OF THE COUNTRY. -- This state is not traversed by any ranges of hills or mountains; the surface in general is level, but in a few instances uneven, and approaching to hilly. It may be arranged under three general heads. 1st. The alluvions of rivers; which are from 1 to 8 miles in width, in some places
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elevated, and in others low, and subject to inundation. They consist of an intermixture of woods and prairie. The soil is almost variably fertile -- such are the bottoms on the banks of the Mississippi, Wabash, Illinois, Kaskaskia, &c. -- 2d. After leaving the alluvions, and rising the "bluffs" which bound them, is a tract of level land elevated from 50 to 100 feet, and which is sometimes called "table land." The greater proportion of this is prairie, which in some places is dry, and in others wet and marshy, depending upon the convexity or concavity of the surface. The soil is less fertile than that of the alluvions, but is generally preferred by emigrants. The tract of country between the Mississippi and Kaskaskia rivers belongs to this class -- 3d. In the interior, and towards the northern part of the state, the country becomes rough and uneven. It consists of an intermixture of woods and prairies, diversified with gentle or abrupt slopes, sometimes attaining the elevation of hills, and irrigated with a number of streams. The soil is in many places sterile. To this class belong the northern parts of Fayette and Clark counties.RIVERS. -- This state is bounded on three sides by the Mississippi, Ohio, and Wabash rivers. The Illinois and Kaskaskia are contained entirely within its boundaries, Besides these, there are several others which run a part of their course in the state; such are the Theakiki, Rock river, Vermillion of the Wabash, &c.
The Mississippi takes its rise in La Beesh and Turtle lakes, according to Pike, in Lat. 47° 42' 4" N. Its principal source, however, is Cedar lake, about 50 miles south. From this to the Falls of St. Anthony, a distance of about 500 miles, it holds a devious course; first S. E. then S. W. and afterwards again S. E. which last it continues, with little variation, to the mouth of the Ohio. By the natives this river was called Meate-Chassippi, the meaning of which, according to some, is the ancient Father of Rivers, and according to others, the Father of the floods.
The character and appearance of the Mississippi above and below the mouth of the Missouri, is so decidedly different, that, it has become the generally received opinion that the latter is the main stream, and the former merely a tributary. Above the mouth of the Missouri, the Mississippi is rarely obstructed by sand bars, and seldom bordered by very extensive bottoms; the
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water is clear and limpid, and the current gentle. Below, it is every where obstructed by immense islands and sand bars, and its banks present on even side extensive and fertile alluvions; the water is muddy, and the current impetuous. In fine, it may be said to assume in every respect the character of the Missouri. But as a change of names, though ever so correct, would at this late day introduce much confusion, and produce no beneficial results, it would be unwise to attempt it.
The Mississippi river is from 1/2 to 1 mile in width, and in its course is obstructed by few falls or rapids. The current is generally from 2 to 4 miles an hour, varying according to the height of the water. The mean descent of the river is nearly 6 inches per mile;
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margin of the river is a strip of heavy timber, with a rank undergrowth; this extends from 1/2 to 2 miles, and from thence to the bluffs is generally prairie. No soil can exceed this in fertility, many parts of it having been under cultivation for more than a century, without the least apparent deterioration. The only objection that can be offered to this tract, is its unhealthiness. This arises from the circumstance of the lands directly on the margin of the river being higher than those under the bluffs, where the water, after leaving the former subsides and forms ponds and lagoons, which, during the summer, stagnate, and throw off noxious effluvia. These however, might at a trifling expense, be drained by lateral canals communicating with the river. An act was passed by the legislature in 1819, authorising a lottery for the purpose of raising funds to accomplish this object; but no measures have as yet been taken to put it into execution. It is to be feared that the advantages which would arise from it, would be more than counterbalanced by the evils attendant upon this iniquitous, although licensed system of gambling.The first settlement of this state was commenced upon the tract of land above described, and its uncommon fertility gave emigrants a favourable idea of the whole country. The French having hardy constitutions, were little affected by the miasma, and generally enjoyed good health. The villages of Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher and Cahokia, were built up by their industry in places where Americans would have perished. Cultivation has, no doubt, rendered this tract more salubrious than formerly; and an increase of it, together with the construction of drains and canals, will make it one of the most eligible in the States. The old inhabitants advise the emigrants not to plant corn in the immediate vicinity of their dwellings, as its rich and massy foliage prevents the sun from dispelling the deleterious vapours.
Coal, exists in abundance on this alluvion and the bluffs which bound it. Its first discovery was made in a very singular manner. Many years since, a tree taking fire, communicated to its routs, which continued burning for some time. Upon examination, they were found to communicate with a bed of coal, which continued to burn until the fire was completely smothered by the falling in of a large mass of incumbent earth. The appearance of fire is still evident for a considerable distance. About two
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miles from this place a coal bank has been opened -- the vein is as thick as any at Pittsburg.Besides the American Bottom above mentioned, there are others which resemble it in its general characters, but which are much less extensive. In many places, however, the banks of the river are high and perfectly secure from inundation here having a gradual ascent, and there presenting perpendicular ledges of rock, surmounted with a starved growth of cedars.
The most prominent characteristic of the Mississippi below the mouth of the Missouri, is the peculiar colour of the water, occasioned by the sand which it contains. It is owing to this circumstance that bars are so frequently and so suddenly formed. Whenever the current is partially obstructed from any local cause, the consequence is that a portion of sand is deposited; and this again increases the obstruction, and consequently the deposition of sand. In this way immense bars are frequently formed in one season, and swept away the next. It is supposed by many that the water of this stream is medicinal, and hence it is very common to see the old inhabitants drinking it daily, impregnated as it is with filth and sand. When cleared and cooled with ice, it has a pleasant taste, without the rankness of the Ohio or Illinois waters.
The Mississippi is obstructed by planters, sawyers, and wooden islands, which are frequently the cause of injury and even destruction to the boats which navigate it. Planters, are large bodies of trees firmly fixed by their roots in the bottom of the river in a perpendicular manner, and appearing no more than about one foot above the surface of the water, when at its medium height. So firmly are they rooted, that the largest boats running against them will not move them; but on the contrary they materially injure the boats. Sawyers, are likewise large bodies of trees fixed less perpendicularly in the river, and rather of a less size, yielding to the pressure of the current, disappearing and appearing at intervals, and having a motion similar to the saw of a saw mill, from which they have taken their name. Wooden Islands are places where, by some cause or other, large quantities of driftwood have been arrested and matted
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together in different parts of the river.The principal branches of the Mississippi running through this state, are Rock, the Illinois, Kaskaskia and Muddy rivers.
The Ohio formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monongaliela rivers, and after running a W. SW. course about 1100 miles, empties into the Mississippi, in lat. 37° N. It meanders through a pleasant and fertile country, and is from 4 to 600 yards in width, to near its confluence with the Mississippi, where it is about 1000. This stream has been called the most beautiful in the world, and is justly entitled to the name of "La belle Pimere," originally given to it by the French. From the mouth of the Wabash to its confluence with the Mississippi, a distance of nearly 200 miles, the right bank of the Ohio forms the southern boundary of the state. In this distance, its banks are generally low and subject to inundation, but very fertile. -- These inundations, as on the Mississippi, are fruitful sources of disease, and effectual barriers against improvement. There are however, a few elevated situations which afford good town sites, and which must become places of considerable importance. It is much to be regretted, that at the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, there is an extensive recently formed alluvion, which is annually inundated, and which cannot, without immense expense, be made an eligible town site. At the mouth of the Wabash, the land is similarly situated. Below this, no streams of any considerable size empty into the Ohio within this state. The largest are Saline and Cash rivers, and Big Bay Creek.
The Wabash rises in the northern part of Indiana, and running first a southwest and then a south course, empties into the Ohio nearly 200 miles above its confluence with the Mississippi. It is a beautiful stream, about 600 miles in length, with but one Considerable fall or rapid, which is near the junction of White
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river, below Vincennes. In low water, it obstructs the navigation very considerably. An act was passed in 1819, to raise funds for the purpose of improving the navigation at this place, by means of a canal.For more than 200 miles, the Wabash forms the eastern boundary of the state. The character of the lands bordering on it, is similar to that on the Ohio and Mississippi, although the alluvious of the Wabash are more extensive, and the inundations more formidable. In many places on its banks, the soil is of such a nature as to render travelling extremely dangerous when it has been recently inundated. The surface appears perfectly safe and solid, but it is supported only by strata of quicksand of great depth, into which it is dangerous to sink. The bottoms of the Wabash are an intermixture of prairie and woodland.
The principal tributaries of the Wabash in this state, are the Vermilion, Embarass and Little Wabash rivers. The head waters of the Wabash approach within a short distance of St. Joseph of the Lakes, and it is proposed to unite them by means of a canal. It is said the expence would be trifling in comparison to the advantages which would arise from it.
It will at once be observed, that this state possesses great advantages in regard to water communication, being bounded on three sides by those noble streams above described. By these means, she has a constant intercourse with every part of the immense valley of the Mississippi. But the interior is also intersected in various directions by large navigable streams, which afford every facility of transportation from one part of the state to the other. The largest and most important of these is the one from which this state received its name, and upon whose banks the settlement of the western country was first commenced.
The Illinois river is formed by the union of the Des Plaines and Theakiki rivers, and after running a west course about 80 miles, changes to southwest and south, and empties into the Mississippi, about 25 miles above the mouth of the Missouri. -- Above the mouth of Vermilion river, it is much obstructed by rapids; below this the current is gentle, and the navigation good during the whole summer. At Fort Clark, about 200 miles above its mouth, it expands into a beautiful lake about 20
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miles in length, and from 1/2 to 2 miles in width, called Lake Peoria. The banks of the Illinois are uniformly low as far up as the mouth of Spoon river, particularly on the west side. The alluvions are bounded by bluffs, which frequently consist of perpendicular ledges of rock from 3 to 300 feet in height. Sometimes they approach very near to the river, and present a very picturesque appearance.The Illinois has proportionally a less number of islands than any of the western rivers, and is seldom obstructed by bars. In many places the banks are elevated, and present the most beautiful town sites, being surrounded on all sides by the most fertile lands. Coal is very abundant on this stream, and is valuable on account of the scarcity of timber. Small masses of copper have also been found in various places upon the banks; but they are always detached, and afford no evidence of any quantity of that mineral in the vicinity. Large rounded masses of primitive rocks are also scattered along its banks, and on the prairies of the interior.
Along the course of this river are a number of lakes, which communicate with it, and without great care and attention, mislead those who navigate it. They may be known by having less current than the river, and generally in being of a much greater width. The lands near the bluffs being lower than on the immediate bank of the river, extensive ponds are also formed which here, as elsewhere, are fruitful sources of disease.
The principal tributaries of the Illinois are Fox, Vermilion, Spoon and Sangamo rivers.
LAKES. A part of Lake Michigan is included in the boundaries of this state. This is very important, inasmuch as it affords a medium of communication with the northern states and the Canadas. The union of this lake with the Illinois, and thus with the Mississippi, has for a long time excited the attention of those who were in favor of internal improvements. During the last session of congress, an appropriation of land was made for the purpose of furnishing the state with the means of accomplishing this object. It is to be feared, however, that the expense of constructing this canal has been estimated too low, and that the state, even with the assistance afforded by the general government, is not yet sufficiently wealthy to complete it. But this should not deter her from making the attempt.
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This subject is so important, that a detail of the routes proposed for this canal, and the results which will probably arise from its final accomplishment, may not be uninteresting.A mere glance at the map of Illinois will be sufficient to convince a person of the least observation, that the union of Lake Michigan with the Illinois river, by means of a canal, is not only practicable, but of easy accomplishment. The position, however does not rest upon so slight a basis; but in its support, can be adduced the concurrent testimony of all who have explored and examined the country. The fact of an easy, and during some seasons an uninterrupted communication between Lake Michigan, and the head waters of the Illinois, was observed by the French at the first discovery of the country; and on this account, they immediately erected trading establishments on different parts of the route. This trade was for a long time enjoyed exclusively by the French, and it contributed in no small degree to the importance of the Canadas. But, as is well known, this has since passed into other hands, and those who discovered the country and were for a long time the lords of the soil, are now the mere "hewers of wood and drawers of water." Alas! who can account for the strange vicissitudes of fortune! Perhaps, in a few more years, those republican institutions, which are now our pride and boast, may be demolished, and the eagle of liberty, now soaring proudly in our air, be driven from our shores to distant and more congenial climes!
The information of traders and voyageurs was such as left no doubt of the existence of a natural canal between Lake Michigan and the Illinois, at some seasons of the year. But as the country had never been carefully examined by men of science and observation, it was difficult to ascertain what were the facilities of forming an artificial communication. All talked of the project as practicable, but none knew the manner in which it was to be accomplished. That the lakes should be united with the Hudson and Mississippi rivers, was a project none were willing to scrutinize, lest its beauty might be destroyed. But thanks to the genius and enterprise of our citizens, theories and dreams have passed away, and have been succeeded by experiment and practice.
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A few years since the country south and west of Lake Michigan, was explored by Messrs Phillips and Graham. In a very interesting report, which they made to the secretary of war, four different methods of forming a communication between Lake Michigan and the Illinois were proposed, viz:First -- By uniting a branch of Chicago river, which empties into Lake Michigan, and a branch of the Des Plaines, which runs a southeast course, and approaches within ten or eleven miles of the lakes, and then turning to the southwest, blends its waters with the Theakiki. These streams approximate within three miles of each other, and when swelled by heavy falls of rain, actually unite, so that boats of 8 or 10 tons burden pass and repass from the lakes to the Mississippi, through this natural route.
Secondly -- It could be effected by opening a channel from a point on lake Michigan, south of Chicago, to enter the Des Plaines below Lake Du Page.
Thirdly -- By uniting Lake Michigan with the Theakiki, above its junction with the Des Plaines. And lastly, by joining the Theakiki anil St. Joseph of the Lake, by which the French enjoyed a partial navigation when the Canadas were an appendage to their empire.
I shall examine each of these plans somewhat in detail; and first the junction of the Chicago river with the Des Plaines.
What is called Chicago river or creek, is merely an arm of the lake, extending in a southwesterly direction three or four miles, and fed by one or two small streams coming from the north. Hence it is on a level with the lake, but at some seasons has a gentle current, owing to the rains and freshets. On this stream, about 4 or 5 miles from the lake is a tracing establishment; and here the portage commences, which, except in Very dry seasons, is seldom more than 3 miles. From this portage to the Des Plaines, a distance of 4 or 5 miles, is a swamp which is generally filled with water, and is navigable The whole distance from the Des Plaines to the lake is about 12 miles. The height of the Des Plaines, at the point where the swamp unites with it is calculated at from 8 to 12 feet. It approaches so near a level, that the view from the swamp to the lake is almost uninterrupted. This is further proved by the
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very fact, that at some seasons there is a communication between the Chicago and the Des Plaines which could not be the case if there was any high land intermediate.
The Des Plaines, for 14 or 16 miles below its junction with the swamp above mentioned, has scarcely any fall, and may be said to be on a level. Below this the rapids commence, and continue for a considerable distance. A short distance below the commencement of the rapids, the Lake and Des Plaines are supposed to be on a level. To this place, therefore, the canal would only require an average excavation of 6 or 8 feet. It is the opinion of some who have attended to this subject, that the canal should be fed from the Des Plaines; but the objections to rivers for supplies of water, apply with double force in this section of country. It is well known that in the spring, all these streams are so filled with water as to overflow their banks for a considerable distance; during this season no canal would be safe, but must unquestionably be swept away. Again, in the autumn they are on the opposite extreme; creeks, ponds and rivers, are completely drained of their water, to supply that immense and greedy conductor, the Mississippi. It is not unfrequently the case, that the savages and travellers are compelled to carry water with them in bladders, and that they cross the beds of large streams without finding sufficient to quench their thirst. But there is another objection to using rivers as feeders, which, though not so imminent, becomes eventually of serious moment. When the Country shall be cultivated, streams swollen by showers will bring down, mixed with their waters, a proportion of mud, and that, in the stillness of a level Canal, will subside and choak it up. There are also other objections, which are, that those who construct the Canal may not be acquainted with the true character of the streams; and that by the progress of industry, the large springs and swamps which are the principal supply of those streams will be dried up.
All these objections and difficulties would be obviated by feeding the canal with the pure water from the lake. And according to the facts above stated, every thing is in favour of supplying it from that inexhaustible reservoir. It would afford such a constant supply of water, with so little variation, that the safety
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of the canal would never be endangered. No supposable fall of rain or melting of snow, even if both were to take place at the same time, in the country which surrounds the great lakes, could raise in any considerable degree their extended surface. Indeed, we know from experience, that a greater difference of elevation is occasioned by a change of winds, than any variation of the seasons. Even granting the truth of the existence of a tideThe project of feeding from the lakes, was one which attracted the attention of the first commissioners appointed by the legislature of New-York, to examine the route between Lake Erie and the Hudson; and so much importance did they attach to it, that they then thought it practicable to supply the canal for nearly the whole, distance from this source. This, however, on account of the ascent from the lake, was found inexpedient. In the canal under consideration, there could be no objection to using this for any distance; for after leaving the level of the lake, 16 or 18 miles below the portage, there is a constant, but gradual descent to the foot of the main rapids of the Illinois, which is the point at which the canal should terminate.
The expense of the canal, following the route by the portage to the point where the first lock would be required, a distance of about 26 miles, would be comparatively trifling. An estimate may be made by examining the expense of other canals under similar circumstances. In the report made by the New-York canal commissioners in 1816, a minute survey of the distances and levels was given, and also a calculation of the expense for each mile. From this it appears, that the summit level of the southwestern section of the western canal is 17 miles; and it passes through a country so very level, that an average depth of four feet of excavation is all that is required. To effect this, say the commissioners, the removal of 5,550 cords of earth per mile, will be necessary; and such removal may be performed for seventy five cents per cord, amounting, for 17 miles, to 64,887 dollars. The Illinois canal, from the lake to the first
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rapids of the Des Plaines, a distance of 26 miles, would require an average excavation of about 6 feet. This would require the removal of 8325 cords of earth per mile; and such removal, at 75 cents per cord for 26 miles, would amount to 162,337 dollars.The second plan of uniting Lake Michigan with the Illinois, is by opening a channel from a point of Lake Michigan south of Chicago, to enter the Des Plaines below Lake du Page. This point on Lake Michigan is about 13 miles south of Chicago. At this place commences a swamp, which in high water stretches itself in a southwesterly direction, and forms a communication with the Des Plaines near the first rapids, it also interlocks with the Little Kalimick, and thus unites with the lake. The distance is 18 miles, and it is nearly on a level with the lake. It is said that boats have frequently passed through this channel to the Des Plaines; and when such is the case, it is impossible in many places to say whether the current sets to the lake or the Des Plaines. At a point about half way between the lake and the Des Plaines, a feather or a piece of wood cast on the surface of the water, will sometimes float one way and sometimes the other.
It is urged in favour of this route, that the distance is shorter, and the country through which it passes more favourable for canalling. But there are also objections to it, which are, that the adjacent country is very swampy, and that there is no point on the lake below Chicago which would be an eligible site for a place of entrepot. Chicago is situated on a rise of ground, and is in every respect admirably calculated for this purpose.
With the advantages of the two last routes we are at present but little acquainted. By the latter, however, the French enjoyed a partial communication while in possession of the Canadas. It was through this passage that the first discoverers of this country entered the Illinois; and it was used for many years afterwards. But the superior facilities of the northern routes are such that these are now scarcely thought of. The distance by the two former routes are much less, and in every respect the facilities are increased.
I have thus briefly examined the different routes which have been suggested for uniting the head waters of the Illinois with Lake Michigan. Whichever of these routes is finally adopted
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as the most practicable and least expensive, it will be necessary to continue the canal to the foot of the lower rapids of the Illinois, near the mouth of Vermilion river, a distance of about 90 miles from Chicago. These rapids, which are observed at intervals for 20 or 30 miles, are occasioned in some places by ledges of rock, and in others by detached masses, which at some seasons are bare, and at others covered only by a few inches of water; and on this account the navigation is obstructed for a considerable portion of the year. Below these rapids to the mouth of the Illinois, the river is deep, its current gentle, and the navigation unobstructed throughout the year.I do not know whether any calculations have been as yet made to ascertain the fall from the rapids of the Des Plaines to the termination of those of the Illinois; but persons who have repeatedly ascended and descended these streams, suppose it to be from 50 to 70 feet. Taking the highest number, and allowing the distance from the point on the Des Plaines, where that stream is supposed to be on a level with Lake Michigan, to be 60 miles, let us make an estimate of the expense by referring to that of other canals.
The Middlesex canal, in Massachusetts, runs over twenty-eight miles of ground, presenting obstacles much greater that can possibly be expected on the route we propose. This canal cost 478,000 dollars, which is about 17,000 dollars a mile. It contains 22 locks of solid masonry and excellent workmanship, and to accomplish this work, it was necessary to dig in some places to the depth of 20 feet, to cut through ledges of rocks, to fill valleys and morasses, and to throw several aqueducts across the intervening rivers. One of these across the river Shawshine is 280 feet long, and 22 feet above the river.
The expense of the northern canal from Lake Champlain to Waterford, is calculated at 800.000 dollars -- the distance is 61 miles; the ascent in from the lake to the summit level, between Fort Ann and Fort Edward, is 53 feet 6 inches, and from this to Waterford the descent is 140 feet -- and upwards of twenty locks are required.
According to the report of the New-York canal commissioners in 1817, the following estimate was given:
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On the Tonewanta creek, thirty miles from the west end of the canal at a point where the level of the lake terminates, to the commencement of the summit level, between Lake Erie and the Genessee river, the distance is 12 miles. "In this distance," say the commisssioners, "locks must be constructed for a rise of 74 feet are eighty hundredths. It would probably be expedient to divide this rise equally between ten locks, in which case the lift of each would be seven feet and forty-eight hundredths. The expense of them would not exceed $100,000." The expenses of excavation, &c. are estimated at $28,000Making $128,000
Again, from the east end of the summit level down the valley of Black creek, and along the west banks of the Genesee river, is about 30 miles, and it would require locks for a fall of 139 feet.
The expense of these locks might be estimated at | $15,000 |
The other expenses at $6,000 per mile, | 180,000 |
$195,000 | |
Add | 128,000 |
Making in all, | $323,000 |
For a distance of 42 miles, with a fall of 213 feet, requiring about 30 locks.
The expense of the whole extent of the middle section of the western canal, occupying an extent of 77 miles, and requiring six locks, is estimated at $853,000.
The average expense of the eastern section of the canal per mile is $13,800. In this section there is a fall of 418 feet, and 46 locks are required.
The average expense of the whole canal from Lake Erie to the Hudson, a distance of 365 miles, is about $13,400 per mile.
Taking then the highest estimates, the expense of the contemplated canal from the Michigan to the foot of the lower rapids of the Illinois, would not much exceed $1,000,000; but the facilities which are here presented, viz. the levelness of the country, and the case with which a canal could be supplied with water, would render it much less expensive, and perhaps one half the amount above mentioned would be amply sufficient.
In a national point of view, the canal under consideration will
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be of the greatest importance; for there is no political principle more clearly established than this, "that after the formation of a food government, it is the next interest of a nation to adopt such a system of internal policy, as will enable, the people to enjoy, as soon as practicable, all the natural advantages of the country in which they live." And it is no less a fact, that when nations have acted upon this principle, they have uniformly risen to wealth and prosperity. In order to test the truth of this remark, look at the situation of those countries where internal improvements have been brought to the highest degree of perfection. China, it is said, by means of its numerous canals intersecting each other over the face of that immense empire, and opening communications between the greatest cities in the world, has created a home market nearly equal to the whole market in Europe. It is to be regretted that we have no detailed account of those stupendous monuments of genius and enterprise, which have thus contributed to make her the most wealthy and independent nation on earth.
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To the American people, the progress of internal improvement is a subject which should claim their most serious attention, inasmuch as it concerns their deepest interests. In a republic so extensive as ours, the conclusion is reasonable, nay irresistible, that when its different sections become, thickly populated, jealousies will arise which will disturb its peace and endanger its liberties. The history of our country, although yet in its infancy, has already furnished ample proof of this fact; but we are unwilling to enter into the disgraceful detail. Since then we have already seen sectional interests arise, and local jealousies excited, what may we not expect, when our country shall become thickly populated, from the shores of the Atlantic to those of the Pacific. Can it be supposed that PATRIOTISM, innocent and defenseless as she is, can resist the attacks of those arch fiends, interest and avarice? No! the presumption is as idle, as the reality would be dreadful: the experience of the world proves its falsity. It follows then, that a community of interest, arising from a mutual dependence of one section of country upon the other, is the only bond of union, and consequently, it should be the business of every wise statesman and legislator to effect this object. Again, if it is true that mutual wants constitute one of the principal links of political connexion, it is no less true, that it is much strengthened by the ease with which those wants can be supplied. Thus we find that in the early ages of society, when governments were composed of distinct petty clans, or monarchies without a single bond of interest to unite them, or without the means of interchange between their different component parts, they were a continual prey to jealousies and feuds. They, one after another, sunk into oblivion, and now scarcely a single trace of their former existence remains. "England, which at one time was divided into several petty kingdoms, through the influence of the general diffusion of knowledge, and a liberal course of policy, has become united into one. And during the last fifty years, the facilities of internal communication have been so much increased, that the demands of one place can be supplied by the resources of another, and thus industry has been so extensively diffused, as to enable her to supply her own wants, and to furnish vast exports to exchange for the wealth of other countries. Scotland, by succession, became united to England,28
and is now bound to her by habit, by turnpike roads, canals and reciprocal interests. In like manner, all the counties of England, or departments of France, are bound to each other; and when the United States shall be bound together by canals, by cheap and easy access to a market in all directions, by a sense of mutual interests, arising from mutual intercourse, and mingled commerce, it will no more be possible to split them into independent and separate governments, each lining its frontiers with fortifications and troops, to shackle their own exports to and from the neighbouring states, than it is now possible for the government of England to divide and form again into seven kingdoms. But it is necessary to bind the states together by the people's interests, one of which is to enable every man to sell the produce of his labor at the best market, and purchase at the cheapest. This accords with the idea of Hume, ‘that the government of a wise people would be little more than a system of civil police, for the best interests of man is industry, and a free exchange of the produce of his labour, for the thing he may require.’
"On this humane principle what stronger bond of union can be invented, than those which enable each individual to transport the produce of by industry, 1200 miles for sixty cents the hundred weight? Here then is a certain method of securing the union of the states, and of rendering it as lasting as the continent we inhabit."
This is the language of one, than whom none has contributed more to the honour and prosperity of the country.
The view which I have thus far taken of the improvement of internal communications, relates only to its necessity for the preservation of our union and independence. There are, however, other considerations, which should not be overlooked or treated lightly. Before entering on this subject, it is proper to premise, that a nation, in order to become prosperous and wealthy, must depend upon her own resources, and not those of foreign countries; for the latter may at any time be withdrawn, and the nation depending on them reduced to the most embarrassed situation. A nation, in order to become wealthy, must
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live within herself; -- she must manufacture her own raw materials, instead of sending them to foreign countries, and depending for her supply of the manufactured articles upon foreign markets. "To rely upon foreign markets," says Governor Clinton,
Among the many arguments in favour of this position, one which is more intimately connected with the subject under consideration, is, that it creates in some instances a new, and secures in all a more certain and steady demand for the surplus produce of the soil. One of the greatest statesmen
"It is evident, that the exertions of the husbandman will be steady or fluctuating, vigorous or feeble, in proportion to the steadiness or fluctuation, adequateness or inadequateness of the markets on which he must depend for the vent of the surplus which may be produced by his labour; and that such surplus, in the ordinary course of things, will be greater or less in the same proportion.
"For the purpose of this vent, a domestic market is greatly to be preferred to a foreign one; for it is, in the nature of things, far more to be relied on.
"But the foreign demand for the products of agricultural countries, is, in a great degree, rather casual and occasional, than certain or constant. To what extent injurious interruptions of the demand for some of the staple commodities of the United States, may have been experienced from that cause, must be referred to the judgment of those who are engaged in carrying on
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the commerce of the country; but it may be safely affirmed, that such interruptions are at times very inconveniently felt, and that cases not unfrequently occur in which markets are so confined and restricted as to render the demand very unequal to the supply."Independently likewise, of these artificial impediments, which are created by the policy in question, there are natural causes tending to render the external demand for the surplus of agricultural nations, a precarious reliance. The differences of seasons in the countries which are the consumers, make immense differences in the produce of their own soils in different years, and consequently in the degrees of their necessity for foreign supply. Plentiful harvests with them, especially if similar ones occur at the same time in the countries which are the furnishers, occasion of course a glut in the markets of the latter.
"Considering how fast and how much the progress of new settlements in the United States must increase the surplus produce of the soil, and weighing seriously the tendency of the system which prevails among most of the commercial nations of Europe, whatever dependence may be placed on the force of natural circumstances to counteract the effects of artificial policy, there appear strong reasons to regard the foreign demand for that surplus, as too uncertain a reliance, and to desire a substitute for it in an extensive domestic market.
"To secure such a market, there is no other expedient, than to promote manufacturing establishments. Manufacturers, who constitute the most numerous class after the cultivators of land, are for that reason the principal consumers of the surplus of their labour.
"This idea of an extensive domestic market for the surplus produce of the soil, is of the first consequence. It is, of all things, that which most effectually conduces to a flourishing state of agriculture."
If the principles which are here laid down by a master hand, and which are confirmed and strengthened by the experience of thirty years, are correct, it follows as a necessary consequence, that it is the policy of our government to encourage manufactures, and by this means promote national industry.
But granting it to be the interest of our country to encourage
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Manufactures, how can they be benefitted by internal improvements? To this we reply: If we should become a great manufacturing nation, it is probable that the northern and middle states will be the principal scenes of those establishments; which would immediately benefit the more southern, by creating a demand for productions, some of which they have in common with the other states, and others of which are either peculiar to, or more abundant, or of better quality than elsewhere.No truth is better established than that labour is the wealth of a nation, and that that which saves labour rewards labour. It is upon this that the whole operations of civilized societies depend, as it regards political economy and social intercourse. Labour is first required in obtaining the raw materials, then in preparing them for use, and lastly in transporting them to the places where they are to be used. This last, viz. transportation, necessarily forms a heavy charge on the fund of labour; and in proportion to the reduction of labour in this respect, will be the
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gain of a nation, as the part saved can be employed to advantage in other objects.Having thus presented some of the general advantages to be derived from the union of Lake Michigan with the Illinois, I shall next proceed to show in what manner it will be particularly advantageous to the states of Illinois and Missouri.
The fertility of the soil of these states is such as leaves no doubt that they are destined to become great agricultural states. All the grains of the eastern, and many of the staples of the southern states, flourish here. From the success which has attended the cultivation of cotton on the eastern side of Illinois, on the Missouri river, and in many other parts of these states, it is highly probable that in a few years this article will be abundantly and profitably raised Tobacco also flourishes here, and is perfectly congenial to the climate. The richness of the soil pledges an abundant reward to industry, and forbids the idea that it will remain sterile, or yield only a sufficiency for our own consumption. An immense surplus produce may be raised, and although the demand for it may sometimes be interrupted, the interruption is seldom of long continuance; for the history of the world proves that all the surplus produce which is raised in one region, is generally required in another.
We are justified in the conclusion, that while man remains what he is, influenced by ambition, the love of glory, the hope of empire, and the baser passions, wars will continue to desolate and destroy; and in proportion to the numbers concerned in these, the number of agriculturalists will be diminished, and the demand for agricultural products increased. These events, until we turn our attention exclusively to manufactures, will always have an important effect upon our country. They will create a demand for the products of our industry, and of course will have a tendency to make the agricultural interest flourish. It then becomes a question of much importance, in what manner these states shall be best enabled to take advantage of the demand in foreign countries? For this purpose three outlets present themselves -- the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, and the Hudson. The objections to the St. Lawrence on account of its rapids and
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obstructions, and the fact that it is closed by the intensity of climate about seven months in the year are such that it never can compete with the others. The export trade must then be divided between New-Orleans and New-York. The former is destined to become one of the greatest commercial cities in this or any other country. She commands the greatest interior; she is the key to the richest and most extensive inland region of any mercantile capital in the world.34
which cannot be transported by New-Orleans to a foreign market, without a considerable depreciation in their value.These considerations clearly prove the importance of opening a communication with New-York, by which means the states bordering on the Mississippi will be enabled to find a market for their produce during those seasons when they are completely excluded from New-Orleans. They will then be enabled to take the advantage of both the markets of New-Orleans and New-York. Their produce then, instead of remaining with the agriculturalist, or wasting in the store-houses at Orleans, will find its way to the great exporting market; and in return, goods will be received upon the most advantageous terms. Even at this time, merchants at St. Louis, and in different parts of Illinois and Missouri, purchase their goods in the eastern cities, and transport them across the mountains, in preference to sending them by New-Orleans. If, then, they now find it their interest to do this, how much more so will it be when, by the completion of this canal, the price of transportation will be much diminished; and when, in addition to this, they can secure at New-York the highest possible price for their produce, during those seasons when they are completely excluded from the southern market.
But let us enter somewhat into detail, and compare the present price of transportation with what it will be when this inland communication shall be established. For example, from St. Louis, a central point on the Mississippi, to New-York, by the Way of New-Orleans, the present price of transportation is about $45 per ton. The freight of the return cargo is not less than $80 per ton; add to this the risque of shipwreck at sea, and the delay inconsequence of the sickness at New-Orleans. After the completion of the Illinois and New-York canals, the expense of transportation from St. Louis to New-York, will be about as follows: --
From St. Louis to Chicago, say per ton, | $10 |
From Chicago to Buffalo, | 10 |
From Buffalo to New-York, say | 20 |
Making | $40 |
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But the return cargo would be no more expensive; and consequently by this route there would be a saving of from 40 to 50 dollars, besides the risque and delay above mentioned.But as we have spoken of delay, let us compare the time consumed in these different routes: --
From St. Louis to the loot or the lower rapids of the Illinois, a distance of about 250 miles, against a gentle current, by steam-boats, about |
3 days. |
From the rapids to Chicago, about 90 miles, by the canal, say | 3 days. |
From Chicago to Buffalo, say | 10 days. |
From Buffalo to New-York, | 12 days. |
Making | 28 days. |
From New-York to St. Louis | 28 days. |
In all, | 56 |
From St, Louis to New Orleans, average about | 15 days. |
From New-Orleans to New-York, | 25 days. |
Making | 40 days. |
From New-York to New-Orleans, average about | 35 days. |
From New-Orleans to St. Louis, | 30 days. |
In all, | 105 |
So that the northern or canal voyage could be accomplished in less than half the time necessary for the southern.
These several estimates, which it is believed are generally correct, clearly demonstrate the immense advantages which would accrue to these states from a direct internal communication with New-York; by which means, instead of being confined to the fluctuating and uncertain market of New-Orleans, they would be enabled at all seasons to take advantage of the demand for their produce in foreign countries, and to obtain in return such imported articles as they might need, upon the most advantageous terms, and with the least trouble and delay.
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I have thus concluded my remarks on the union of Lake Michigan with the Illinois, having endeavoured to point out its practicability, to make an estimate of its probable expense, and to unfold its advantages. My main object has been to call the attention of the people of Illinois and Missouri to a subject which to them is all important.Besides Michigan, there are several other lakes in different parts of the state, but they are small and unimportant, and rather deserve the name of ponds, it is hence not necessary to notice them particularly in this place.
VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. -- The botany of this state, although a very interesting subject, would be by far too extensive for our present purpose. Those who have in the least degree attended to the diversity of the soil and climate of Illinois, must be convinced of its botanical riches.
The forest trees most common upon the recently formed alluvions, are the cotton wood, (Populus angulata, L.) sycamore, (Platanus occidentalis, L.) and several different species of the willow, (Salix.) On the older alluvions, and on the uplands, the variety is much greater. The following catalogue may not be uninteresting: --
Ulmus Americana, Mx. American, or White elm.
Ulmus fulva, Mx. Slippery, or Red elm.
Acer rubrum, L. Red maple.
Acersaccharinum, L. Sugar maple.
Acernigrum,Mx. Black maple.
Acer dasycarpum, L. Soft maple.
Acer striatum, Mx. Striped maple, or Moose wood.
Quercus tinctoria, Wild. Black oak.
Quercus palustris, Wild. Swamp oak.
Quercus alba, Wild. White oak.
Quercus palustris, W. Pin oak.
Quercus nigra. W. Black jack.
Quercus macrocarpa, Mx. Over-cup White oak.
Juglans nigra, L. Black walnut.
Juglans cinerea, L. Butter-nut.
Carya olivoeformis, Nutt. Pecan nut
Carya alba, Nutt. Shag bark.
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Carya glabra, Nutt. Pig nut.Castanea vesca, Mx. Chesnut, (rare.)
Betula nigra, L. Black birch.
Betula excelsa. Ait. Yellow birch.
Betula papyracea, Wild. Canoe birch.
Erasmus concolor, Mx. f. White ash.
Fraxinus quadrangulata, Mx. f. Blue ash.
Tilia Americana. Wild. Bass-wood.
Celtis crassifolia, Wild. Hagberry, or Hoop ash.
Laurus sassifras. L. Sassifras.
Diospyros Virginica, L. Percimon.
Prunus serotina. Wild Wild cherry.
Gleditschia triacanthos, L. Honey locust.
Gleditschia monosperma, Swamp locust.
Porcelia triloba, Pers. Papaw.
Carpinus Americana, Wild. Hornbeam.
Ostrya Virginica, Wild. Iron wood.
Fagus ferruginea, Ait. Beech.
Gymnocladus canadensis, Wild. Coffee tree.
Pinus strobus, L. White pine, said to be common in the northern parts of the state.
Cupressus disticha. Wild. Cypress, on the Ohio river.
Many other names might be added to this list, but the above will convey an idea of the general character of the forests.
On the banks of the Illinois and Ohio, indigenous vines are abundant, and yield grapes, which might advantageously be made into wine. It is also probable, from the success that has attended the cultivation of foreign vines in similar situations, that they would flourish in the southern and middle sections of this state. Most of the vines of France are cultivated on barren, broken and sandy soil. Some of them, however, are found to flourish on low moist land, where in some seasons they produce abundantly. Such are the vineyards of lower Burgundy, which are very extensive, and which, in dry seasons, afford wines little inferior to those of upper Burgundy. From the many facts which are at present known in regard to the culture of the vine in different parts of France and other countries, its success appears to depend more upon local circumstances than latitude. In France, it is found to succeed in all the different
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situations, from the valleys in the neighbourhood of Briancon to Mount Lyons, in the higher Alps, which has the climate of Sweden. From a number of observations made on this subject, it appears that a southern exposure is the only one favorable to the cultivation of the vine.Exotic vines have been successfully cultivated at Glascow, in Kentucky, in lat. 37° N. at Vevay, in Indiana, lat. 38° 30' N. at Harmony, in the same state, in lat. 38° 45' N. and at Harmony, in Pennsylvania, still farther north. In Illinois, they were formerly cultivated by the Monks of La Trappe, at their establishment in the American Bottom, opposite St. Louis. From these facts, there can be no doubt that on the banks of the Ohio, Mississippi and Illinois in this state, the vine might be made a valuable production. The climate here is mild, and the banks at these streams, for nearly two thirds of the year, are fanned by warm southerly winds.
But if the cultivation of the exotic vines should prove unsuccessful, the indigenous ones might be substituted. The Vitis aestivalis produces excellent fruit on the banks of the Ohio, Mississippi and Illinois, in what may be called a deep vegetable loam. It is much used by the French inhabitants of this state, who convert it into a tolerable wine. No doubt, by cultivation and care, this grape would be greatly improved. At all events, when we reflect what a vast revenue is derived from this article in foreign countries, the experiment deserves a fair trial upon an extensive scale. A consideration not less important is, that it would probably be the means of introducing a wholesome beverage in the place of those slow but certain poisons now so extensively used.
Maize, is at present the staple production of this state: This is chiefly owing to the ease with which it can be cultivated. It generally yields from 50 to 80 bushels an acre; but if attended to during the season, it frequently yields from 100 to 120, and 130 bushels.
But although maize is by far the most extensively cultivated, wheat and rye also flourish here, and yield abundant crops, particularly in the interior of the state. The soil is also well adapted to the cultivation of oats, flax, barley, &c. &c. The domestic grasses are as yet but little attended to, as the inhabitants depend chiefly upon those which are found indigenous to the prairies.
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Cotton has been for many years successfully cultivated in this state. It is not probable that it will ever become a profitable article of export, but a sufficiency will always be raised for home consumption.Tobacco, will be one of the most valuable productions of Illinois, the soil and climate being in every respect congenial to its growth.
Hemp, is indigenous in the southern part of this state, as well as Missouri; a proof that its cultivation would be attended with very little labour. As we are in a great measure indebted to foreign countries for this article, there is no doubt but it would become a most valuable production.
As might well be supposed, agriculture in this state is still in its infancy, the attention of the inhabitants having been thus far chiefly directed to raising a sufficiency for their own consumption. Now, however, that many of them are comfortably situated, possessing not only all the necessaries, but even the luxuries of life, they are directing their attention to their vast agricultural resources. About two years since, a state agricultural society was formed; and from what has already been done, the most beneficial results may be anticipated. Premiums are offered for the best crops of wheat, rye, corn, barley, hemp, tobacco, &c. In order the more completely to carry into effect the objects of the society, auxiliaries are forming in the different counties. The important results which have uniformly followed from the formation of these societies in different parts of Europe and the United States, warrant the conclusion that their influence will be sensibly felt in every part of this extensive state.
A fact stated by the president
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barley, which is promising. In the spring I intend to sow timothy and clover. Thus, with two ploughings and two harrowings, may be obtained two crops, and the land brought into a state to receive grass seeds."
ANIMALS. -- Wolves, panthers, and wild cats are as yet very numerous. The increase of the former is said to keep pace with the increase of live stock, so much so that it requires all the care and attention of the farmer to prevent their ravages. It, has been suggested by some, that premiums should be offered by the legislature for their destruction. Among the many expedients offered for destroying these animals, we quote the following from a celebrated French work.
Deer, are also very abundant in this state, and are very valuable, particularly to the poorer class of its inhabitants, the flesh affording them food, and the skin, clothing. -- Foxes, raccoons, oppossums, gophars, and prairie squirrels, are also numerous; the two former are valuable for their skins. The flesh of the oppossum is by many considered a great luxury.
The brown bear is also an inhabitant of this state, although he is continually retreating before the advance of civilization.
Wild horses, are found ranging the prairies and forests in different parts of the state. They are generally rather diminutive in size, but are well formed and very hardy. They are caught in pens, and with ropes having nooses attached to them. When
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caught, they are easily broken either to the saddle or harness. The poor French, who monopolize the business of catching and breaking these horses, make them an article of traffic; their common price is from 20 to 40 dollars. In a wooded alluvion at the junction of the Kaskaskia and Mississippi rivers, called "the point," these horses are so abundant that their use entirely supercedes that of any others. It has been supposed by some that they are indigenous, but it is most probable that they are the offspring of those horses which were brought there by the first settlers, and which were suffered to run at large. They are much used by the Indians, for which reason they are frequently called Indian ponies.MINERALS. -- From the description which has already been given of this state, it will not appear surprising that it is not very rich in minerals. The soil is its most invaluable and inexhaustible mine, and will ever constitute its greatest source of wealth.
In the southern part of the state, sand stone is very abundant, and is useful as a material for architectural purposes. North of this region, secondary limestone forms the basis rock, and it is readily burnt into lime. Coal is found in great abundance in different parts of the state; it is of a good quality, and is very valuable on account of the scarcity of timber. Lead, is also found in large quantities near the junction of Bean river with the Mississippi. The mines in this region are extensively and profitably worked by Col. J. Johnson, who, during the last session of congress, obtained the exclusive right of working them for three years. Copper has been found in detached masses on the banks of the Illinois and Big Muddy rivers, but it is very doubtful whether it exists in any quantity. A large grant made by the Spanish government to Philip Renault, includes a "copper mine at Peoria."
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the rapids, and is wrought by the Indians into pipes and ornaments of different kinds. Its colour is deep red; in hardness it approaches the softer varieties of serpentine: it hardens by exposure. Finate of lime occurs at a lead mine near Shawneetown. Its colours, which are very beautiful, are various shades of purple, violet, and blue; some specimens are entirely limpid. It is found accompanied by galena, blende, pyrites, &c imbedded in a stiff red clay, resting on secondary limestone (Schoolcraft.) -- Gypsum is also found in a crystallized form in St. Clair county. (Schoolcraft) -- Buhr-stone, of a good quality, has also been found near the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi; but it has not yet been ascertained whether it exists in any considerable quantity. -- Salt springs are found in almost every county in the state, and are an inexhaustible source of wealth. The Ohio saline, near Shawneetown, is at present the most valuable, yielding to the state a revenue of about $10,000 per annum. The Muddy saline, near Brownsville, is also extensively worked, and affords good salt. The salines on the Sangamo and Vermilion of the Wabash, are also very valuable.CLIMATE. -- The climate of Illinois being similar to that of Missouri, the reader is referred to that article in the general view of Missouri.
NATURAL CURIOSITIES. -- The bank of the Ohio in this state presents many singular appearances. It frequently consists of ledges of rock, which assume the most fanciful forms, and are penetrated in various places by caverns of different dimensions. Of these, the most remarkable is that which is generally known by the name of "Cave in Rock," or "House of Nature," which was for a long time the rendezvous of a gang of robbers, who plundered and murdered the crews of boats navigating the Ohio. It still serves as a temporary abode for those who want shelter in case of shipwreck, or other accidents which happen to emigrants. It consists of several large rooms, handsomely arched, and bounded on each side by benches of solid rock, which is covered with stalactites, and abounds with organic reliquae
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Large caves are also very abundant in the steep and picturesque cliffs of the Illinois. The Indians suppose them to be the residence of the Great Spirit, or Manitou, and are their places of worship and sacrifice, either for success in war or the chase.The Fossil tree of the Des Plaines, though not uncommon in this country, is well worthy the attention of the curious and scientific. It has been described by Mr. Schoolcraft, and will be more particularly noticed under the head of ‘Riviere Des Plaines.’
ANTIQUITIES. On the American Bottom, mounds are very numerous. The most considerable assemblage is about 8 miles above St. Louis. In the circuit of 4 or 5 miles there are upwards of 40 mounds of different forms and dimensions. The largest of these is called the Monk mound, from its having formerly been the residence of a few monks of the order of La Trappe. Its shape is that of a parallelogram, extending from north to south. The circumference of its base is about 800 yards, and the height about 30. The other mounds are of a smaller size, and are scattered through the plain at irregular distances from each other. Near them are found pieces of flint, fragments of earthen vessels, and frequently human bones. Mount Joliet, situated on the west bank of Riviere des Plaines, is about 3 or 400 yards in length, and 2 or 300 in breadth. Its form is that of a prism; it is evidently the work of art, and is probably the largest mound in the United States. From the river, it appears nearly square. It received its name from Joliet, a Canadian, who first observed it in 1773. Near the Ohio saline, large fragments of earthenware, are continually found, both on and under the surface of the earth. They have the impression of basket or wicker work, similar to those found on the Merrimack and Missouri rivers. Similar fragments have also been found near Harrissonville, in St. Clair county.
LAND DISTRICTS. For the purpose of survey and sale, the state of Illinois is divided into land districts, which are designated as follows:
The Land District of Vandalia, is bounded north by the northern boundary of the state, east by the range line between numbers 8 and 9, south by the base line, and west by the 3d principal meridian. The land office is at Vandalia.
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The Land District at Shawneetown, comprehends that part of the state, bounded north by the base line, east and south by the by the boundaries of the state, and west by the 3d principal meridian. Land office at Shawneetown.The Land District of Kaskaskias, is bounded north by the base line, east by the 3d principal meridian, south and west by the Ohio and Mississippi rivers. Land office at Kaskaskias.
The Land District of Palestine, is bounded north and east by the boundaries of the state, south by the base line, and west by the range line between the lines numbered 8 and 9, east of the 3d principal meridian. The land office is at Palestine.
The Land District of Edwardsville, is bounded north and west by the boundaries of the state, east by the 3d principal meridan, and south by (he base line. The land office is at Edwardsville.
By an act passed during the last session of congress, a new land district was erected from the land district of Edwardsville, comprising so much of the public lands of the United States as lie north of the line separating the thirteenth and fourteenth tiers of townships north of the base line, and west of the third principal meridian. The act also provides that a land office shall be established at such place therein, as the president of the United States shall designate, until the same shall be permanently fixed by law; but the appointments of register and receiver are not to be made until a sufficient quantity of public lands shall have been surveyed within the said district, to authorize, in the opinion of the president, a public sale of lands.
GOVERNMENT. The constitution of Illinois was adopted by a convention held at Kaskaskia, in August, 1818. It provides for the distribution of the powers of government into three distinct departments -- the legislative, executive and judiciary. -- The legislative authoirity is vested in a general assembly, consisting of a senate and house of representatives, each of which bodies are elected every two years by the people. The senators vacate their seats in rotation. The executive is vested in the governor, who is chosen every fourth year by the electors for representatives; at which time the lieutenant governor is also elected. The judicial power is vested in a supreme court, and such inferior courts as the general assembly shall from time to
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time establish. The supreme court consists of a chief justice and three associates, who are appointed by joint ballot of both houses of the assembly, and they hold their offices until 1834, at which time their commissions expire; but after that period, the justices of the supreme court, and of the inferior courts, hold their offices during good behaviour. The governor and judges of the supreme court constitute a council of revision, to which all bills that have passed the assembly must be presented. Although the council of revision may return a bill with their objections, a majority of the members may pass it into a law. The governor nominates, and with the consent of the senate, appoints to all offices not otherwise provided for by the constitution. The right of suffrage is universal. All white male inhabitants who have resided in the state six months preceding elections, enjoy the right of electors; and it was provided that all votes should be given viva voce, until altered by the general assembly. Slavery is prohibited in this state. The constitution can only be altered by a convention.EDUCATION, -- By the act of congress admitting the state of Illinois into the union upon an equal footing with the original states, the U. States granted to it the sixteenth section in every township, and where such section has been sold or otherwise disposed of, other lands equivalent thereto, as contiguous as may be, for the use of schools; besides three per cent of the net proceeds of lands lying within this state, and which shall be sold by congress from and after the 1st January, 1819 -- of which one sixth part is to be exclusively bestowed on a college or university. In addition to which, two entire townships were granted for the use of a seminary of learning, and vested in the legislature of the state, to be appropriated solely to the use of such seminary.
As the condition of these liberal grants, the convention which formed the constitution of this state, ordained by a statute, which is irrevocable without the consent of the United States, that every tract of land sold by the United States after January 1819, should be exempt from any tax for five years; and that bounty lands granted for military services during the war, should, while they continue in the hands of the soldier, be exempt from taxes for three years from and after the date of each patent;
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and that all lands belonging to the citizens of the United States residing without the said state, should never be taxed higher than lands belonging to persons residing therein.HISTORY. -- About the middle of the 17th century, the French began to turn their attention to thee discovery of the Mississippi. They had heard from some Indians who visited Canada, that there was towards the west a large river, but they could obtain no information in regard to its course or extent. The attention of the enterprizing had for a long time been directed to the discovery of a North West passage; and the hints which they received of the existence of a river west of the lakes, were calculated to give additional confidence, and render them more sanguine. They supposed that this river emptied itself into the Pacific ocean, and that it also formed a communication with the lakes, and thus vainly imagined that they had at once discovered the great object of their wishes. Anxious to signalize himself and his nation, M. Talon, the intendant of New-France, a man of superior genius, determined to settle this important question previous to leaving America. He gave the charge of the investigation to P. Marquette, a Jesuit, who had already travelled over almost all the Canadas, and who was much respected by the savages; and associated with him a man of courage and experience, named Joliet. Having made the necessary preparations, they embarked from the mouth of Fox river, and ascended it to near its source; then crossed westward by land, until they intersected the Ouisconsin; and descending this, they reached the Mississippi on the 17th of June, 1673. They found that river much larger and deeper than it had been represented to them by the savages. They were delighted with the beauty and fertility of its banks, and every day's journey furnished them with new subjects of admiration. Unfortunately, the regular journal which they kept, was lost, when on their return to Canada. It appears, however, from the account of Joliet, that they found the natives friendly, and with the assistance of a few presents, they obtained such provisions as they were in need of. But a tradition existed among the savages, that there was on the banks of the Mississippi below the Missouri, a Maniton, or Spirit, which it was impossible for any being to pass. This information was communicated to the adventurers, and being but
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few in number, they determined not to pursue their journey south, but to return to Canada by the way of the Illinois. It is uncertain how far they descended the Mississippi; it being asserted by some that they reached the mouth of the Arkansas, (or Akanceas, as it was then called;) by others, that they did not proceed farther south than the mouth of the Missouri.
Upon ascending the Illinois,
M. de la Salle, a native of Rouen in Normandy, who had resided for many years in Canada, and who was a man of enterprize and intelligence, was the first to revive the plan of M.
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Talon, in regard to the discovery of the Mississippi and country which it watered.
When Joliet arrived in Montreal with the news of his discoveries, La Salle was engaged in the favorite project of a Northwest passage to China and Japan.
La Salle, after making the necessary arrangements, left France in July, 1678, and arrived in Quebec during the month of September of that year. He then proceeded to Fort Frontenac, on Lake Ontario, of which he had been appointed governor. Here he made some repairs, and leaving a few men as a
49
garrison, proceeded on his journey. On the 18th of November of this year, he left the fort, with the Chevalier Tonti as his lieutenant, Father Hennepin as his chaplain, and 30 or 40 men. La Salle now engaged himself for about a year in examining the country bordering on the lakes, and in selecting proper sites for the erection of forts. His object in this was, to secure to the Canadas the whole trade of the Indians residing in the country now known as the northern and western parts of the states of New-York, Pennsylvania, and Ohio. This was rendered the more necessary, on account of the exertions which were made by the English and Dutch to divert the trade to the south. After La Salle had effected this object, and had commenced a profitable, trade at his different posts, he determined to continue his discovery. Previous to his departure, however, he commenced a considerable fort at Niagara, then a village of the Iroquois, which he intended as his place of entrepot between Canada and the countries he should discover. The Iroquois, who were then a powerful nation, viewed this with considerable jealousy; and La Salle, fearing that it might be the cause of hostility, abandoned the project, and contented himself with the erection of pallisadoes merely for the protection of his magazine. His object was to influence the savages by mild and conciliatory measures, and he was therefore unwilling to persevere in any plan which had to them the appearance of coercion or force, unless it was absolutely necessary for the protection of himself or his party. After he had built a small vessel at Niagara, and left a few men for the, defence of the fort and stores, he passed through Lake Erie and entered the Huron, where he had to encounter much difficulty on account of the storms which now prevailed. He, however, passed through in safety, and entered Lake Michigan; and after remaining a short time at the Bay of Puants, (Green Bay,) for the purpose, of trading, proceeded with his men in canoes to the southern extremity of the lake, and landed at the mouth of the river of the Miamis on the 1st of November, 1679.50
supplies. This was occasioned by the loss of a boat which had been sent from his establishment at the Bay of Puants. Necessity now compelled him to turn his attention to the construction of a fort for his defence; and after having selected a suitable site, he commenced building it, which, when completed, he called Creve-caeur, (broken heart;) for he had suffered much anxiety and distress of mind, on account of the disappointments be had met with, and the appearance of hostility among the Indians. This hostility, strange as it may appear, was occasioned by the perfidy of some of his own men. The French, as has been before mentioned, ever since their first visit to this country, had been well treated by the Illinois, and were considered by them as their true friends. The Illinois being engaged in a war with the Iroquois, a numerous, warlike, and cruel tribe, according to their savage, and perhaps correct notions of friendship, expected assistance from the French. La Salle, however, being convinced that his safety as well as his success depended upon the termination of this warfare, used all his efforts to accomplish this object. This was construed by some of the evil spirits of the Illinois, into treachery; and their suspicions were strengthened by the wicked and malicious representations of some of the French, who told them that it was La Salle's intention to form an alliance with their enemies the Iroquois. The Illinois now pronounced the sentence of death upon La Salle, and would have put it into execution, had it not been for the firmness and courage which he afterwards evinced. As soon as he was apprised of what had taken place, he went forth alone to the camp of the Illinois, and addressing the chiefs, stated, that in coming among them, he had the most honourable, as well as peaceful intentions; that he had always considered them as his friends, and that he was ready and willing to give them all the assistance in his power. He stated to them the impropriety of being thus engaged in war, as he wished to be friendly with all the tribes, which he could not, under existing circumstances. He declared to them, that he had never offered any assistance to the Iroquois, but that his object in visiting them was to terminate the war. He then concluded, by demanding of them the author of this base and wilful misrepresentation; stating, that if he would now appear and substantiate the charge, he was willing to suffer the51
sentence which they had so hastily pronounced upon him. The savages were lost in astonishment. The coolness and bravery which La Salle displayed, together with the eloquence of his harangue, had such an overpowering effect, that they instantly abandoned the purposes of revenge upon which they had determined. The calumet of peace was now smoked; presents were mutually exchanged, and the Illinois made the most solemn promises that they would be the friends of La Salle, and would never again give credence to the accusations which might be brought against him.
Peace being now established, La Salle again turned his attention to the prosecution of his discoveries; and in order the more expeditiously to explore the northern and southern country, his plan was, that Father Hennepin should ascend the Mississippi to its source; that Tonti should remain at Creve-coeur, while he should descend the river to its mouth Accordingly, Hennepin embarked on the 28th of February, 1680; and having passed down the Illinois into the Mississippi, ascended the latter as high as the Falls of St. Anthony. Shortly after he was taken prisoner, robbed of his property, and carried to some Indian villages. But he soon made his escape, and returned to Canada by the way of the Ouisconsin; and from thence he sailed immediately for France, where he published an account of his travels.
La Salle, after having visited Canada for the purpose of making further arrangements, returned to Creve-coeur; and shortly after descended the Illinois to the Mississippi, where he arrived in February, 1683. He then descended the latter stream, built one or two forts on its banks, and took a format possession of the country in the name of the king of France, and in honour of him called it Louisiana.
It is not necessary to my present purpose, to give a detailed account of the subsequent operations of La Salle. Suffice it to say, that after descending the Mississippi to its mouth, he returned to Canada by the way of the Illinois; that from Canada he went to France, where an expedition was immediately fitted
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for the purpose of forming a colony at the mouth of the Mississippi; that he sailed from France to the Gulf of Mexico, where he made several unsuccessful attempts to accomplish his purpose; that being unable to discover the mouth of the Mississippi, he determined on going by land to his fort on the Illinois; and that on this journey he was basely assassinated by two of his own men, in 1687.
Tonti, who had been left in command on the Illinois, after building a new fort
After the death of La Salle, no attempts were made to discover the mouth of the Mississippi, until about the year 1699. In the mean time, however, the settlements on the Illinois were gradually increasing in population, by emigration from Canada. In 1713, the whole colony of Louisiana was granted to M. Crosat, by letters patent from the king of France. This grant secured to him all the commerce of the colony, and all the profits accruing from the mines and minerals he should discover, with the exception of one fifth of the gold and silver, which was reserved to the king. But Crosat was disappointed in his expectations in regard to the profits of the trade of Louisiana. There were many causes which operated to produce this effect. Without paying the least attention to the cultivation of the soil, which possessed in itself hidden treasure, the whole object of his attention was the search for the precious metals. These he supposed to exist in large quantities; and such was his folly and infatuation, that when he failed in this, he considered the country of little or no consequence. He therefore gave up his privilege to the King in 1717. The colony was soon after granted to the Mississippi company, projected by the celebrated Law.
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This company, which had engrossed almost the whole commerce of France, under the name of the "Company of the Indies," took possession of Louisiana, and appointed M. Bienvillo governor of the colony. At this time, the most extravagant accounts of this country were industriously circulated throughout all Europe, and "the Mississippi became the centre of all men's wishes, hopes, and expectations."Shortly after this, several forts were built within the present limits of the state of Illinois, the most considerable of which were Fort Chartres, and one at Kaskaskia. By this means they were enabled not only to protect their trade, but to form a complete chain of communication and defence from the Canadas to the French forts at the mouth of the Mississippi.
For some time previous to, and after the time that the Mississippi company relinquished their concerns to the government, the settlements of the Illinois country, as well as those of the whole colony, appear to have been in a languishing condition. An unhappy dispute now arose between the English and French, in regard to the true boundary between their colonies, which had never been defined. The French anticipating a struggle for their American possessions, strengthened their posts along the Mississippi and the lakes, by which means they intended to engross the whole fur trade of the west. This was a measure which excited the jealousy of the English, who, by virtue of their charters, conceived they had a right to navigate the Mississippi. With these views, a company of merchants and planters obtained a considerable tract of land near the Ohio, but within the province of Virginia; and were established by a charter, under the name of the Ohio company, with the exclusive privilege of trading to that river.
In 1765, Capt. Sterling, of the royal Highlanders, in his majesty's name, took possession of that part of the Illinois country which had been ceded to Great Britain. He continued in command but a short time, and was succeeded by Major Farmer, who was relieved by Col. Reed in 1766. With the administration of the latter, the inhabitants were much displeased.
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The administration of justice, which was wholly in the hands of the military commandant, was an engine of the most grievous oppression. Complaints were made by the inhabitants, but they produced little or no effect. Col. Reed, however, left the colony in 1768, and was succeeded by Lieut. Col. Wilkins, who arrived at Kaskaskia on the 5th of September in the same year.On the 2lst of November, 1768, Col. Wilkins made a proclamation, in which he stated that he had received orders from General Gage, commander in chief in America, to establish a court of justice, for settling and determining all the differences and affairs which the inhabitants might have among themselves. In pursuance of these orders, he appointed seven judges, to settle all matters in relation to debt and property, both real and personal. They were ordered to meet for the first time at Fort Chartres on the 6th of December following, and afterwards once in every month. Although this was far preferable to the former judiciary system, the inhabitants remonstrated against it, and insisted on the right of trial by jury, which was denied them.
Little change was produced in the situation of this colony, until the breaking out of the American revolution. In 1778, in consequence of the outrages committed by the savagesat the instigation of the English, the Virginia militia made some successful incursions into the Illinois country, and took possession of the British posts on the Mississippi. These, by an act of the Virginia legislature, were erected into a county, called the county of Illinois; and a regiment of infantry, with a troop of cavalry, were voted for its protection. The command of these troops was given to Col. George Rogers Clark, a gentleman whose great courage, uncommon hardihood, and capacity for Indian warfare, had given him repeated success in enterprizes against the savages. He remained for a short time at Kaskaskia, and then conducted a successful expedition against Post St. Vincent, now Vincennes.
This territory, which by conquest became the property of Virginia, was afterwards ceded to the United States, and was included within the limits of Indiana territory, established in 1800; at which time, the country, within the present boundaries
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of Illinois, contained about 3000 inhabitants. But on account of the fertility of the lands, and the inducements which were presented to enterprising men, the population rapidly increased. In 1809, it was erected into a territory, the population of which, in 1810, amounted to 12,282.During the last contest between the United States and Great Britain, the inhabitants of Illinois, in common with the other frontier districts, felt the evils of warfare. The most barbarous and cruel acts were continually committed by the savages, many of which were caused by the intrigue and perfidy of the British Indian agents and traders. Fearful that the Americans would share with them in their profitable trade, their agents had, for a long time, used every exertion to attach the tribes to the interests of the British government. Presents of arms, ammunition and clothing were profusely made to the warriors, their women and children; and promises were made, that ample aid would be given to them, to regain all their former possessions, and to drive the Americans beyond the mountains.
The effects of this disgraceful system were perceived some time previous to, but were not fully developed until after the declaration of war. In consequence of the surrender of General Hull, the garrison at Chicago had been ordered to evacuate the fort. On the 15th of August, 1812, Captain Heald, with the troops, amounting to 60 or 70 men, the women and children, marched from the fort, and had proceeded but a short distance, when they were attacked by a large body of savages. A determined resistance was made, but it proved ineffectual against the superior force of the enemy. At length Capt. Heald, finding his number of soldiers much diminished, consented to surrender, upon the promise of protection. But, no sooner did the Americans lay down their arms, than the savages commenced an indiscriminate massacre.
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Hopkins, with 3 or 4000 Kentucky volunteers, left Vincennes, in order to form a junction with Gov. Edwards. Unfortunately however, the general was deceived by his guides, who led him in various directions through the grand prairie, where his army suffered much on account of the excessive coldness of the weather. The Indians, observing their approach from an eminence, fired the prairie, and obliged the general to retreat in disorder and confusion. Governor Edwards remained for some time near Peoria, waiting for the expected reinforcements; but being disappointed in this, and thinking his force not sufficiently large to cope with that of the Indians, he was obliged to abandon his favorite project, and retire to winter quarters, not, however, without having destroyed all the Indian villages which lay in his route. Capt. Craig, who commanded the boats, also returned, after having reduced to ashes the village of Peoria. It is much to be regretted, that through the want of concert between the commanding officers of the different detachments, the principal design of this campaign was completely frustrated. After this, the seat of military operations was transferred to Michigan and Missouri; and during the remainder of the war, no events of consequence transpired in Illinois.
In 1818, this territory was formed into a state, and admitted into the union on an equal footing with the original states. This event soon produced a great increase of its population, which in 1820 amounted to 55,211, including blacks. Since that time, however, the number of its inhabitants has been much increased. At present the state of Illinois is divided into 26 counties, as follows: --
Names of Counties No. of Inhabitants in 1820 County Seats
Alexander 626 America
Bond 2,931 Greenville
Clark 931 Aurora
Crawford 3,022 Palestine
Edwards 3,444 Albion
*Fayette Vandalia
Franklin 1,763 Frankfort
Galltain 3,155 Shawneetown
*Greene Carrolton
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*Hamilton McLeanboroughJackson 1,542 Brownsville
Jefferson 691 Mount Vernon
Johnson 343 Vienna
*Lawrence Lawrenceville
Madison 13,550 Edwardsville
Monroe 1,537 Harrisonville
*Montgomery Hamilton
*Pike Colesgrove
Pope 2,160 Golcondia
Randolph 3,492 Kaskaskia
*Sangamon Springfield
St. Clair 5,243 Belleville
Union 2,236 Jonesborough
Washington 1,517 Covington
Wayne 1,114 Fairfield
White 4,828 Carmi
The counties marked thus (*), have been erected since the census of 1820.
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IN THE
STATE OF ILLINOIS.
ARRANGED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER
Alexander county comprises the peninsula between the Ohio and Mississippi. It is bounded north by Union county, east by Johnson county and the Ohio river, south by the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, and west by the Mississippi. It is 24 miles long, with an average width of 18 miles: the area is about 378 square miles. This county is generally well timbered, and its soil fertile. It is watered by Cash river, a small stream emptying into the Ohio seven miles above its junction with the Mississippi. This stream, after meandering through the northern part of the county, approaches to within one mile and a half of the Mississippi, ten miles above the mouth of the Ohio. At this place it is contemplated to unite the two streams by means of a canal. Should this be accomplished, it would not only be a considerable saving of distance, but afford the means of avoiding the excessive current at the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers.
This county, although so favourably situated at the junction of two large and important rivers, derives from this circumstance little or no advantage. Here, where we should naturally expect to find a large and flourishing town, the entrepot of produce and merchandize passing to and from the north, east, south and west, we find little else than the remains of a deserted warehouse. It unfortunately happens, that at, and for a considerable distance above the junction of these streams, their banks are low, and subject to annual inundations; and such is the height to which the water rises on them, that they could not, without much expense, be made safe, and far less comfortable places of residence.
The importance of a good town site immediately at the juncton of these two streams, has for many years excited the attention
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of the enterprising; and accordingly, various plans have been suggested to accomplish this object by artificial means One of these received the sanction of the legislative council of the territory at their last session in 1818. An act was then passed, incorporating a body politic, by the name and style of the president and directors of the bank of Cairo, upon the following terms and conditions, viz: That of the land lying at the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi rivers, south of Cash river, there shall be laid off no less than 2000 lots, of one third of an acre each. These lots to be sold under the direction of commissioners, in the manner following: Books of subscription to be opened for the said lots, at $150 each: a deposit of $50 to be made at the time of subscribing, and the residue to be paid in three and six months. Five hundred lots being thus sold, an election will be held for president and directors of said bank, to be located at Kaskaskia. The proceeds of the sales of the said 500 lots, and of the remaining ones, form the capital of the bank. The charter is granted for the term of 30 years, and without a bonus. One third of the proceeds of the sale of the lots is appropriated, and to be expended, under the direction of commissioners, for the embankment of the town. The residue of $100, entitles the proprietor to one share in the said bank. The title of the land is derived immediately from the United States; has been paid for by the purchasers, and by them conveyed to trustees for the aforesaid purposes. This law, although under existing circumstances it is perhaps the best that could have been enacted, is not altogether unexceptionable; and it is doubtful whether it will have the desired effect. Five years have already elapsed since its passage, and no progress has as yet been made either in the sale of lots or the erection of an embankment. It is, however, an object so important, that it will no doubt claim the attention of the state, when she shall have become more populous and more wealthy. The immense trade on the Ohio and Mississippi will then warrant the expense, and insure an ample remuneration.The county of Alexander is attached to the fourth judicial circuit. It contains 626 inhabitants; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Union county, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is America.
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Bond county was formerly very extensive, being upwards of 100 miles in length, and 30 miles in breadth. At present it is reduced to an area of 468 square miles. Its form is that of a parallelogram, 26 miles in length, and 18 in breadth. It is bounded north by the county of Montgomery, east by Fayette, south by Washington, and west by Montgomery and Madison.
This county is watered by the Kaskaskia river and its tributaries. Its surface is generally level, or gently undulating. The soil is fertile, particularly on the branches of Shoal creek. The prairies in this county are numerous and extensive, and in area exceed the timbered land.
Bond county contains about 1400 inhabitants. It is attached to the third judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Fayette and Montgomery one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Greenville.
Clark county is situated in the eastern part of the state, and is very extensive. It extends from Lat. 39° 15' to 41° 20' N. Its medium width is 50 miles. It is bounded north by the Illinois and Kankakee rivers, east by the state of Indiana, south by Crawford county, and west by Fayette.
This county being so extensive, contains almost every variety of soil and surface. The eastern part is traversed by the Grand Prairie, by far the most extensive in the state. It stretches itself from about the base line near the third principal meridian, in a northeasterly direction between the Kaskaskia and Wabash rivers, for about 100 miles; then turning to the northwest, continues in that direction between the head waters of Vermilion of the Wabash, Woman river of Tippecanoe, and the Iroquois river of the Kankakee, to near the junction of the Illinois and Kankakee. Its average width is from 20 to 30 miles. Besides this there are many other, though less extensive prairies, in different parts of the county. The banks of the streams, however, are well timbered.
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In the northern and northeastern parts of this county, swamps and low wet prairies are very common; some of which, especially those near the Illinois and Kankakee rivers, are very extensive. The lands on the head waters of Vermilion river are said to be higher and more uneven than in any other part of the state. The soil is sandy, water pure, and the timber of a good quality. Coal is very abundant. There are also numerous and valuable salt springs, which are already extensively worked. This part of the county is rapidly increasing in population. The southern part is handsomely interspersed with prairie and woodland.
Clark county is watered by the Illinois and Kankakee rivers, and several of their branches -- the Kaskaskia, Embarass, Big and Little Vermilion, and Pickamink rivers, besides a great number of smaller streams. The dividing ridge between these streams, which runs northwardly and eastwardly, traverses the upper part of this county; and from a height of land, several of the sources of these streams can be seen at one, view.
The northern part of Clark county was, during the late war, the theatre of important, though unsuccessful military operations. General Hopkins, with about 3000 men, after having destroyed several Indian towns on the Wabash, took up his line of march to form a junction with Gov. Edwards at Peoria, in order to give battle to a large body of Indians who were there encamped, and who were very troublesome to the frontier inhabitants. Unfortunately for the general, he was deceived by his guides, who led him in various directions through the Grand Prairie. The Indians, observing their approach from an eminence,
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fired the prairie, and obliged the army to retreat in disorder and confusion. On account of this unfortunate circumstance Gov. Edwards waited a considerable time near Peoria, for the expected reinforcement; but being disappointed in this, he was obliged to abandon his favorite project, and retire to winter quarters.Clark county contains 931 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Crawford, one to the senate. Its county seat is Aurora.
Crawford county is situated in the eastern part of the state, and is about 44 miles long, with an average breadth of 24 miles. It is bounded north by Clark county, east by the state of Indiana, south by the counties of Lawrence and Wayne, and west by Fayette. Its area is 1332 square miles.
This county is watered by the Embarass, and several tributaries of the Big and Little Wabash rivers. It contains much prairie land, which is generally low and level. The banks of the streams are heavily timbered, but low and subject to inundation: this is particularly the case on the Embarass, and the branches of the Little Wabash. It is not unfrequently the case, that the bottoms of those streams which are more than 2 miles in width, are covered with from four to eight feet of water, so as to render them perfectly impassible. During the last season, a complete water communication was formed from the Embarass to Vincennes, a distance of about seven miles. Travelling through this county during these seasons, is attended with much difficulty and danger. In the low prairies near the Wabash, there are quagmires called by the common people purgatory swamps, or devil's holes, the surface of which appears dry and level, but is only supported by quicksand. A stick can be thrust into them to any distance; and when the prairies are covered with water, should a traveller be so unfortunate as to sink, it is generally fatal to him. Instances of this kind frequently occur; and those whom necessity compels to travel at this season, unless the water is sufficiently high for the ferry
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boats, employ some person who is well acquainted with the locality of the swamps, to pilot them through the prairie. It was on account of the difficulties attendant upon travelling from the Wabash to the Embarass, that the latter received its name from the early French settlers.Crawford county raises a considerable quantity of surplus produce, principally corn and wheat, which is sent down during the high water to New-Orleans. Cotton has also been raised in small quantities; and from the success which has attended its cultivation, it is thought that in a few years it will become an article of export.
This county contains 3022 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends two members to the house of representatives, and with Clark, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Palestine.
Edwards county is situated in the eastern part of the state. It is bounded north by Lawrence county, east by the Wabash, south by the Wabash and the county of White, and west by the county of Wayne. It is 30 miles long, with a medium width of about 18: area, 522 square miles.
Edwards county is watered by the Little Wabash, Bonpas, and several smaller streams. It contains a considerable proportion of prairie land, lying between the Big and Little Wabash, most of which is very fertile. The prairies are generally small, high, undulating, and bounded by heavy timber; thus presenting every inducement to the agriculturalist. It is on one of these that the English settlement, probably the most flourishing in the state, is located. The banks of the streams, like those of Crawford, are heavily timbered, and like them subject to inundation.
This county raises a surplus quantity, of produce, the principal part of which is shipped down the Wabash. Like the other counties lying on this stream, it possesses the advantage of a water conveyance to the different parts of the valley of the Mississippi. The Wabash, for several months in the year, is navigable for 200 or 300 miles. This, together with the Little Wabash
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which is also navigable for a short distance, affords the inhabitants of this county every facility for transporting their produce.Edwards county, previous to its division, contained 3,444 inhabitants; at present it contains about 2000. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Allbion.
Fayette county is situated in the centre of the state, and was erected in 1821. It comprises all that tract of country lying north of a line, beginning at the southwest corner of township No. 3, north of range No. 1 west, extending east to the southeast corner of township No. three, north of range No. six, east of the 3d principal meridian. This county, if continued to the northern boundary of the state as the law directs, would separate the county of Pike, which was erected during the same session of the legislature, into two separate districts. Whether this was the intention of the framers of the law, I am unable to say; but as there is a manifest collision in the boundaries of these two counties, I have left Pike in the form which was given to it, and have only continued Fayette to the Illinois river.
Fayette county is bounded north by the Illinois river, east by Clark, Crawford and Wayne counties, south by Wayne, Jefferson and Washington, and west by Bond, Montgomery and Sangamon. It is 190 miles long, and 42 broad -- its area is 68, 544 square miles.
The Kaskaskia river meanders through this county for nearly 100 miles, receiving numerous tributaries from the east and west. The eastern part is watered by the principal sources, of the Sangamon, Michillimackinac, and several other smaller streams. On the north, it is supplied by the waters which fall into the Illinois.
The great predominance of prairie land is a serious objection to this county. The grand prairie of which we have already spoken, stretches itself through a considerable part of this county, and is little else than a dreary uninhabited waste. Besides
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this, there are other extensive prairies towards its northern and southern boundaries. The country on the head waters of the Sangamo and some of the branches of the Kaskaskia, is very fertile, and calculated to support a dense population. It is high and undulating, and beautifully interspersed with small prairies, containing groves of the finest timber. In addition to this, it is healthy and well watered. In the vicinity of Vandalia, the soil is clayey; but soon changes into sand and loam, which produces heavy crops of corn, wheat, &c. although very little surplus is as yet raised.The banks of the Kaskaskia, like most of the streams in this state, are generally low, and subject to inundation. A rise in this stream is frequently occasioned by slight rains, in consequence of its numerous tributaries. This, however, is only of short continuance. Its excess of water is soon carried away by the "greedy" river, into which it empties. Since the location of Vandalia as the capital of the state, the country in the vicinity has improved rapidly. The market which is now created at this place, has given a stimulus to the agriculturalist which was before unknown; and the increase of Vandalia, which is now a flourishing town, has been fully equalled by that of the surrounding country. The formation of agricultural societies has already produced a most salutary effect, and will no doubt contribute much to its future prosperity, wealth and greatness. Many of the citizens of Vandalia are turning their attention both to theoretical and practical agriculture; and the effects of this are already to be seen in the fine plantations which are scattered through the vicinity. To a country so new, so thinly inhabited, but yet possessing such vast advantages, this is a subject of the deepest interest.
This county having been erected since the census of 1820, the exact number of its inhabitants is not known, but is supposed to be about 1500. It is attached to the 3d judicial circuit -- with Montgomery, sends one member to the house of representatives; and with Bond and Montgomery, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Vandalia.
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Franklin county is situated in the southern part of the state; and is bounded north by Jefferson county, east by White and Gallatin, south by Johnson and Union, and west by Jackson and Randolph counties. Its form is that of a parallelogram, 36 miles in length, and 24 in breadth: its area is 864 square miles.
This county is watered by Big Muddy river, and the branches of Saline creek. It is well timbered: the prairies are generally small and fertile -- sand predominates in the soil. The banks of the streams are low, and subject to annual inundations.
Franklin is similar in character to the neighbouring counties, and cannot be said to possess any peculiar advantages. It will probably become a very great agricultural county, whenever the demand for produce shall be increased.
This county contains 1763 inhabitants. It is attached to the fourth judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Johnson, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Frankfort.
Gallatin county is situated in the southeastern part of the state. Its length is 37 miles, with a medium breadth of about 25, and its area is 864 square miles. It is bounded north by White county, east by the states of Indiana and Kentucky, south by Pope county, and west by Franklin. Situated as it is at the junction of the Wabash and Ohio rivers, its eastern boundary is washed by those streams. The interior is watered by Saline creek and its tributaries.
According to Mr. Birkbeck, sand predominates in the soil in this section of country. The basis rock is sand stone, lying, he thinks, on clay slate. The bed of the Ohio at Shawneetown is sand stone. This formation extends a considerable distance above and below this place, and forms the ledge, known by the name of the battery rocks. It also frequently appears on the Little Wabash and Skillet fork. Limestone has not as yet been discovered in this district.
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This county contains a great proportion of timbered land, which is particularly valuable on account of its contiguity to the salt springs, which must be an inexhaustible source of wealth. The valuable saline, commonly known by the name of theOhio Saline, is situated on Saline creek, about 10 or 11 miles above its junction with the Ohio. The Indians, who formerly possessed it, valued it highly, and called it the Great Salt Spring; and it appears probable, from a variety of circumstances, that they have long been acquainted with the method of making salt. -- Large fragments of earthenware are continually found near the works, both on and under the surface of the earth. They have the impression of basket or wicker work, similar to those found on the Merrimack and Missouri rivers. From this circumstance, Mr. Bradbury infers, that the Indians practised the art of evaporating the brine to make salt, long before the discovery of America. In a treaty between the United States, and the Delaware, Shawanoe, Pottawatomie, Eel River, Weea, Kickapoo and Piankasaw tribes, at Fort Wayne, on the 7th of June, 1803, this saline was ceded to the United States, with a quanity of land, not exceeding four miles, surrounding it: In consideration of which, the United States engaged to deliver yearly and every year to the said Indians, a quantity of salt, not exceeding 150 bushels, to be divided among the several tribes in such manner as the general council of chiefs may determine. -- For a number of years it was possessed by the United States, with a reservation of 161 sections of land in the vicinity, the whole of which were ceded in 1818 to the state of Illinois, by whom it was leased to different individuals for about $10,000 per annum. The works are situated on section 20, township 9, south range 8, east of the third principal meridian. Saline creek is navigable to the works, and the surplus salt is thus shipped to southern markets.In order to guard against the improper conduct of the lessees and to prevent the injury or destruction of the works, the legislature at their last session passed an act authorising the appointment of a superintendent. The art provides that he shall be elected by the general assembly, and shall receive a salary of $800 per annum. That he shall reside on the premises, and
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shall give bonds to the governor and his successors in office, in the sum of $8000, with security, approved by him, for the faithful performance of his duty. The superintendent shall continue in office till the expiration of the present leases. It is made his duty to take possession of any establishment at the said saline, where the lessee or lessees thereof have violated his or their lease, or leases by failing to comply with any of its covenants or conditions. And when any lease of any establishment at said saline, now made, or that may hereafter be made, shall be violated by the lessee or lessees, it shall be the duty of the said superintendent to enter upon and take possession of the premises; which, after due notice thereof being given, shall be leased to the highest bidder. The superintendent is also invested with the power of sueing and distraining for rents.Gallatin county contains 3155 inhabitants. It is attached to the 4th judicial circuit; sends two members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Shawneetown.
Greene county is situated on the Illinois river, near the western part of the state, and was erected from Madison county in 1821. Its boundaries are as follows, to wit: Beginning at the southeast corner of township No. 7 north, in range No. 10, west of the third principal meridian; thence north between ranges 9 and 10, to the northeast corner of township 12 north: thence west along the line between townships 12 and 13, to the middle of the Illinois river; thence down said river to its junction with the Mississippi river; thence down the Mississippi river to a point parallel with the southwest corner of township No. 6 north in range 10 west; thence north with the range line between 10 and 11, to the township line between 6 and 7; thence east with the said township line, to the place of beginning.
The tract of country within the following boundaries is attached to Greene, until otherwise disposed of by the legislature, viz: Beginning at the southwest corner of township 7, north of range nine, west of the third principal meridian; thence east to the southeast corner of township 7 north, in range 6 west;
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thence north to the northeast corner of township 12 north; thence west to the northwest corner of township 12, in range 7, west; thence along the prairie between the waters of Sangamo and Mauvaise terre, to the head of Balance creek; thence down said creek to the Illinois river; thence down said river to the northwest corner of Greene county.The county of Greene is nearly in the form of a parallelogram. Its length is 40 miles -- average breadth 22; its area is about 880 square miles. The tract attached to it is nearly double this size.
Greene county is watered by the Ma-qua-pin, (Magopin) and Otter creeks, and several other small streams emptying into the Illinois and Mississippi. The attached portion is supplied by Balance creek, the Mauvaise terre, and branches of the Sangamo and Ma-qua-pin.
This county, (I mean also the tract attached to it) forms a part of the finest district of country in the state; and all who have seen it, agree in the opinion that it is without a parallel -- Fine water courses, a salubrious climate, a fertile soil, and contiguity to navigable streams, are some of the many advantages which it possesses. The face of the country is in general level, or gently undulating. With the exception of those under the bluffs of the Illinois, there are few of those stagnant ponds which in some parts of the state are such fruitful sources of disease.
Although this county contains a large proportion of timbered land, it is diversified with prairies, some of which are beautiful beyond description. In many of these are large groves of timber, which form the most pleasant as well as advantageous situations for settlers. The most celebrated of these is Diamond Grove, situated on the head waters of the Mauvaise terre, about twenty miles from the Illinois. In the centre of a beautiful prairie is a large grove of timber, in the form of a diamond, somewhat elevated above the surrounding country. The skirts of this grove are already thickly settled by an industrious and enterprising population, principally from the north and east. The plantations embrace a portion of wood land and prairie. Besides this, there are several small prairies, which are in like manner settling very rapidly.
The banks of the Mississippi in the southerly part of this county
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are generally composed of perpendicular cliffs, varying in height from 80 to 150 feet, consisting of horizontal strata of sand stone, limestone, slate and coal -- Although the latter does not appeal on the face of the cliffs, it is found in great abundance a short distance from it near Alton. I would remark that coal is also found similarly situated on the banks of the Kickapoo creek, a small stream emptying into the Illinois near Fort Clark. In many places the upper strata overhang, and have all the terrific appearance of the table rock at Niagara. From the number of excavations on the face of the bluff, it appears to have been at some former period laved by an immense body of water. This bluff continues along the Mississippi and Illinois to the northern part of the county, sometimes, however, receding several miles east, leaving a low but fertile alluvion, which in general is heavily timbered. At the mouth of the Mauvaise terre creek, there is a beautiful high prairie, which is a fine town site.In addition to these, Greene county possesses the advantage of having good town sites near the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi, from which she will be enabled at all seasons of the year to export her produce, and to obtain the necessaries and luxuries of life.
As this county has been erected since the census of 1820, its population is not known. It must however be near 2000. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Pike, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Carrolton.
Hamilton county was erected from White in 1821, and is situated in the southeastern part of the state. It is bounded north by Wayne county, east by White, south by Gallatin, and west by Franklin and Jefferson. Its form is that of a parallelogram, 21 miles in length, and 18 in breadth; its area is 378 square miles.
This county is watered by branches of Saline creek and Little Wabash river, and contains about an equal proportion of prairie and timbered land. It is attached to the second judicial circuit, and with Jefferson, sends one member to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its population is about 2000. Seat of justice McLeanborough.
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Jackson county is situated in the southeastern section of the state. It is bounded north by Randolph county, east by Franklin, south by Union, and west by Randolph and the Mississippi river. Its length is 30 miles, with a medium width of 24; its area is 720 square miles.
This county is watered by Muddy river and its tributaries. -- It is generally timbered land, although it contains many prairies. That part of the Mississippi which forms its western boundary, is, with few exceptions, high and rocky. Six or seven miles above the mouth of Muddy river, a chain of rocks extend across the Mississippi, and forms its bed; and from the height of the banks on each side, and the immense masses of rock which are still to be seen rising from them, we are irresistibly led to conclude, that here was once a complete barrier to the passage of the water from the north. But as it is not our present intention to indulge in geological speculations, we shall only speak of things as they are. The Grand Tower, which is a perpendicular rock rising from the river at this place, is at present about 70 or 80 feet in height, but has the appearance of having been worn down. It consists of horizontal strata of sand stone, and corresponds in its appearance and its stratifications, with the banks of the Mississippi. The high bank which commences here, continues with little interruption to the mouth of the Kaskaskia river; sometimes presenting a bare perpendicular rock, with those numerous excavations and fanciful appearances, to which the boatmen have given the names of the ‘Devil's tea table,’ ‘bake oven,’ ‘back bone,’ &c.; at others, gently or abruptly sloping, covered with a light soil, and a scanty growth of cedars.
Muddy river, which meanders through the interior of this county, is navigable for a considerable distance, and affords to the inhabitants every facility for exporting their surplus produce. On this stream, near Brownsville, there is a saline, which has been leased for 10 years. It is not so extensive as the Ohio Saline, but is sufficiently so to supply this and the adjoining counties. A large body of good stone coal is also said to exist about 25 miles up this stream, from which the smith's in the vicinity receive their supplies, and some is even taken to New-Orleans.
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Native copper, similar to that found on the Illinois near Peoria, has also been found on the banks of Muddy river. It appears, however, merely in the form of detached masses lying on the surface, and affords no evidence of the existence of that mineral in any quantity in the vicinity. On the margin of this stream are several beautiful prairies, which are very fertile and quite thickly settled.Jackson county contains 1542 inhabitants. It is attached to the third judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Brownsville.
Jefferson county is situated in the central part of the state. It is bounded north by Fayette county, east by Wayne and Hamilton, south by Franklin, and west by Washington and Randolph. Its form is that of a parallelogram, 36 miles in length, and 24 in breadth; its area is 864 square miles, being of the same size with Franklin.
Jefferson county is watered by several branches of the Muddy, Little Wabash and Kaskaskia rivers. The northern part is traversed by the grand prairie; the southern part contains a considerable portion of timbered land. It is, however, as yet but thinly populated; and although the soil in many places is fertile, still this county possesses no peculiar advantages.
It contains only 691 inhabitants. It is attached to the third judicial circuit; with Hamilton, sends one member to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Mount Vernon.
Johnson county is situated in the southern part of the state. It is bounded north by Franklin county, east by Pope, south by the Ohio river, and west by Union and Alexander counties. Its length is 30 miles; breadth 18: its area is 486 square miles. The interior of this county is watered by the heads of Cash river and Big-bay creek. The southern boundary is washed by the Ohio, the banks of which are generally fertile. Occasionally
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they consist of ledges of perpendicular rocks, which by extending across the river, form what are called the Little and Grand Chain, so much dreaded by those who navigate this river. Near these, however, are pilots, who are acquainted with the channel, and who generally bring boats through in safety. In the southeastern part of this county are the remains of Fort Massac and Wilkinsonville, of which particular descriptions will be given hereafter.This county has a large proportion of level land, which is generally well wooded. Its soil is sandy. As yet it is but thinly populated, owing perhaps to the unhealthiness occasioned by the overflowing of the Ohio, and the marshes which abound near the southern boundary. When these shall be drained, and the inhabitants turn their attention to the cultivation of tobacco, cotton, and the grape, all of which would yield profitable crops, it will no doubt become flourishing and wealthy.
Johnson county contains 843 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Franklin, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Vienna.
Lawrence county, erected in 1821, from apart of Edwards and Crawford, is situated in the eastern part of the state. It is bounded north by Crawford county, east by the Wabash river, south by Edwards county, and west by Wayne and Crawford. It is about 40 miles in length, with a medium width of 19 miles. Its area is about 700 square miles.
This county is watered by the Embarrass, Little Wabash, Fox rivers, and several other smaller streams, the banks of all which are low, and subject to inundations. A great proportion of the land in the interior, and at a short distance from the streams, is prairie, most of which is very fertile. What has been said of the purgatory swamps, and the excessive inundations of the streams, under the description of Crawford county, applies also to this.
As Lawrence county has been erected since the census of 1820, its present population is not known; judging, however,
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from the previous population of Edwards and Crawford, it must contain about 1500 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Wayne, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Lawrenceville.
Madison county is situated in the western part of the state, and is very extensive. It is 36 miles in length, and 24 in breadth: its area is 756 square miles. It is bounded north by Greene and Montgomery counties, east by Bond, south by Washington and St. Clair, and west by the Mississippi river and a part of Greene county.
This county, both on account of its soil and situation, possesses uncommon advantages. On the west it is washed by the Mississippi, above and below the junction of the Missouri. South of Alton the bank is low, being a continuation of the American bottom, which is upwards of one hundred miles in extent. North of Alton the bank is generally high, and affords several good town sites. The importance of these situations, so near the junctions of the Missouri and Illinois with the Mississippi, can at this time scarcely be realized. A mere glance at the map must convince every person of the least observation, that few districts of country possess greater advantages than this. Looking forward to the time when the Illinois shall be united with Lake Michigan, and by this means a complete communication formed between the Mississippi river and New-York, we may observe a continuation of lively commercial towns from the mouth of the Missouri to that of the Illinois. Here will be stored the produce of the fertile interior of the state; here will be deposited for exchange or transportation, the furs and minerals of the Missouri and Mississippi, which will then be shipped at all seasons to New-York: here will be the point from which the whole northwestern part of the state will receive their supplies. These are not air-built castles, or phantoms of the imagination. No: it would be an anomaly in the history of the world, if a section of country, upon which the productions of every climate and soil, from the north to the south, and from the
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east to the west, could be thrown, and from which valuable productions could be received in return; I say, it would be an anomaly, if such a section of country should not rise to wealth and importance. It must necessarily be the place where these different productions will be exchanged. It is worthy of remark, that the American bottom, which is a low alluvion, subject to inundation, extends from the mouth of the Kaskaskia to Alton, a few miles above the mouth of the Missouri, and does not afford a single site for a healthy town. Above this the bank is high, watered by fine springs; contains building stone and coal of the best quality, and in fact every advantage for large and healthy commercial towns. The interior of Madison county is generally high and undulating, though not hilly. On the banks of the Mississippi below Alton, it is low and wet, and in many places very marshy. No soil, however, can exceed it in Fertility. Upon rising the bluff which bounds this bottom upon the east, there is a district of country which continues east to the Kaskaskia river, and is called the table land. This is also very fertile, and is by many considered the most desirable tract in the state. The banks of the streams which pass through the interior of this county, are generally well wooded, leaving between them prairies of considerable size, but very fertile, and very advantageously situated for settlement. Some of these have already a large population. The following statement, published by order of the agricultural society of the state of Illinois, will convey an idea of the soil; and this is the more interesting, as it is the only one of this kind ever published in the state."Mr. Curtis Blakeman, of Silver creek, in this county, gathered from 9 acres 3 quarters and 6 roods, 1600 bushels of ears of corn, of a very superior quality. One bushel and a half of ears, (consisting of 134 ears,) just as they run from the crib, shelled, made one bushel and four quarts of shelled corn. The seed of this corn was brought from Kentucky. It is quite white and hard; the grains a little indented on the outside of the car; the cob very small in proportion to the ear. The mode of cultivation was quite common. It was planted late in May, in hills about four feet apart, and was three times ploughed.
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"From the above it appears, that there was raised from somewhat less than 10 acres, the prodigious quantity of 1350 bushels of shelled corn, making an average of above 135 bushels per acre. It is understood that the field was newly turned up prairie, this being the first year's cultivation."Although corn is as yet the staple of this county, wheat and all other grains flourish here, and yield abundant crops.
Madison county, at the time of taking the last census, contained 13,550 inhabitants; but since this it has been so subdivided, that it is impossible to form any estimate of its present population. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends three members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Edwardsville.
Monroe county is situated in the western part of the state, and is 26 miles in length, and 16 in breadth: its area is 286 square miles. It is bounded north by St. Clair county, east by St. Clair and Randolph, south by Randolph, and west by the Mississippi.
The interior of this county is watered by a few small branches of Horse, Prairie du long, and L'Eagle creeks. On the Mississippi there is a timbered alluvion; east of this the county is generally broken and hilly. It is, however, a rich county, and exports a considerable quantity of produce.
Monroe contains 1537 inhabitants; It is attached to the third judicial circuit, sends one member to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Harrisonville.
Montgomery county was erected from Bond in 1821. Its form is nearly that of a parallelogram, 35 miles in length, and 24 in breadth: its area is 328 square miles. It is bounded north by Sangamon county, east by Fayette, south by Bond and Madison, and west by Greene.
This county is watered by some of the tributaries of the Sangamo and the Kaskaskia rivers. It contains a considerable proportion of prairie land, which is generally high and undulating.
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Montgomery contains about 1500 inhabitants. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; with Fayette, sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Bond and Fayette, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Hamilton.
Pike county is situated in the northwestern part of the state, and was erected from Madison and other counties in 1821. Its boundaries, as defined by the act of the legislature, are as follows, viz: Beginning at the mouth of the Illinois river, and running thence up the middle of said river to the fork of the same; thence up the south fork of said river, until it strikes the state line of Indiana; thence north with said line to the north boundary line of the state; thence west with said line to the western boundary line of the state; and thence with said line to the place of beginning. By this description, it will be observed that this county includes all the northern and northwestern part of the state, of course it embraces almost every variety of soil and surface.
The southern part of this county includes a part of the lands appropriated by congress for the payment of military bounties. The lands which constitute the Illinois military tract, are included within the peninsula of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, and extend on the meridian line passing through the mouth of the Illinois, one hundred and sixty-two miles north. The breadth of the tract varies, its form being that of an irregular triangle.
The quality of the soil of this tract has been variously described. Very little, however, is as yet known with regard to the interior. Those who have explored the country, have generally confined their excursions to the banks of the streams which they have ascended. Some, however, have gone into the interior, and have returned pleased with its appearance, both as it respects soil and situation. No account of this interesting tract has as yet been published, except the notes of the surveyors, drawn up in a compendious form by N. Van Zant, Esq. who has also accompanied them with a map. This book is valuable, on account of the minute and detailed description which it contains of the quality of each individual section of land.
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The Illinois bounty tract, altogether, may be called a valuable one but there are, however, objections to it which shall be briefly noticed. In the lower part, south of the base line, there is a great body of land subject to inundation; so much so, that in some seasons you ran sail over thousands of acres of timbered alluvion. The soil of this is generally fertile; but no dependance can be placed upon the crops, as they are continually exposed to the ravages of the water. This circumstance is also a fruitful source of disease for, as is common in the western country, the land under the bluffs is much lower than that directly on the river -- hence there is here formed a chain of ponds, which become stagnant, and send forth their effluvia. These causes will naturally affect the settlement of this portion of the military tract; for it can hardly be supposed, that while there is such an immense quantity of fertile and well situated public land in market, that emigrants will settle on such unfavourable spots as these. There is comparatively but a small proportion of the land below the township line 2, south of the base line, favourable for settlement; that on banks of rivers being subject to inundation, and that in the interior being very hilly and broken.As you approach the base line, the country begins to improve; the river banks becoming gradually more elevated, and the interior levelled down to beautiful prairies, interspersed with groves and strips of timber. You now occasionally meet with a landing place, which below is rarely to be found. The situations most favorable for settlement, are on Otter creek, Chenailecarte, Crooked creek, and Spoon river, and in the vicinity of Fort Clark and Fort Edwards. This section of the tract is well watered, and contains a handsome proportion of prairie and wood land.
The northern part of the tract is not so favorable for settlement. The prairies become very extensive, and are badly watered. In fact, this last is an objection to the whole tract. In dry seasons it is not unusual to walk through the beds of the largest streams without finding a drop of water. It is not surprising that a country so far distant from the sea, and drained by such large rivers, which have a course of several thousand miles before they reach the great reservoir, should not be well
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watered. This we observe is the case with all the fine flowing streams of the high land, whereas those of the champaign and prairie settle in the form of ponds, which stagnate and putrify. Besides, on the same account there are very few heavy rains in the summer; and hence, during that season, water is exceedingly scarce. The Indians, in their journeys, pass by places where they know there are ponds, but generally they are under the necessity of carrying water in bladders. This drought is not confined to the military tract, but in some seasons is very general. During the summer of 1820, it was truly alarming. Travellers in many instances were obliged to pass whole days in the warmest weather, without being able to procure a cupfull of water for themselves or their horses, and that which they occasionally did find was almost putrid. It may, however, be remarked, that such seasons rarely occur; but on account of its being washed by rivers of such immense length, this section of the country is peculiarly liable to suffer from excessive drought.There is another obstruction to the rapid settlement of this tract, which is that it is owned by many different individuals, residing in different parts of the United States. This circumstance subjects the emigrant to many difficulties. He may explore the country, and find a spot which he is anxious to purchase; but he is unable to find the owner, and is on this account obliged to abandon his intention. In this way, many who have wished to become settlers, have been deterred from accomplishing their object.
The most convenient plan for those who wish to settle on the tract, is to obtain from some large landholder, or from some person having an extensive agency, a list of quarter sections for sale, these can be examined with the certainty that if they are suitable, they can be purchased. This is the plan that is at present adopted. The terms of sale are generally very moderate, as it is the object of the proprietors to have the lands settled. It would in every case be advisable for the emigrant to visit the tract, and make a selection for himself previous to settlement.
Upon the whole, it can with safety be said, that notwithstanding these objections to the Illinois military tract, it bids fair to become one of the most eligible in the western country.
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It embraces a great variety of climate, and is favorable to the cultivation of the different kinds of grain. In the northern and middle sections, wheat, rye and oats, would no doubt thrive well; and in the southern part, particularly on the river, tobacco might be profitably raised. From the mouth of the Illinois, which is in lat. 38° 54' N. to lat. 40, on the river, the vinecould probably be cultivated with success.
There are some directions which are of the greatest importance to those who are about to examine this tract of country.
The northern part of this county, extending from the eastern to the western boundary of the state, embraces a considerable, variety of soil and surface. Near Lake Michigan, the country abounds with prairies, some of which are low and wet, and frequently form swamps and ponds; such are those on the Kankakee, and Des Plaines rivers, and Kalamick creeks. It is on this account that in high water, a communication is frequently formed between the waters of Lake Michigan, and those of the Illinois. -- Towards the interior and western part of this county, the surface becomes more uneven, sometimes hilly, and sometimes gently undulating, abounding with the ores of lead and iron, particularly on the Mississippi, above Rock river. Little is as yet known of the geography in the interior, as it is but thinly settled, and has seldom been explored by men of science or observation.
Pike county will no doubt in a few years be divided into several counties; some of which will become very wealthy and important, particularly those on the Mississippi, and on the lake. It is probable that the section about Fort Clark will be the most thickly settled, and perhaps, in an agricultural point of view, it
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is the most important. But should a canal be opened between the Illinois river and Lake Michigan, it is difficult to form any correct idea of the relative importance of the different sections of this extensive county.This county contains many minerals, which prove of considerable advantage to it. On the Mississippi, above Rock river, lead ore is found in abundance. It is of an excellent quality, and yields from 80 to 85 per cent pure lead. Iron is found in large quantities. At different places on the Illinois, there are immense strata of coal, of the best quality. Copper is also found in detached masses near Fort Clark. The Indians say it exists in large quantities, but as yet, there is no evidence of the truth of their assertion. Ochres of various kinds are found in the southern part of the military tract, and buhr stone of an excellent quality has also been discovered near the mouth of the Illinois.
Pike county contains between 7 and 800 inhabitants. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Greene, one to the senate. -- Its county seat is Colesgrove.
Pope county is situated in the southern part of the state. It is bounded north by Gallatin, east and south by the Ohio river, and west by Johnson county. Its length is 36 miles, with a medium width of about 16: its area is about 576 square miles.
This county is washed on the east and south by the Ohio river, the interior is watered by Big Bay creek, and some other small streams, emptying into the Ohio. It is generally well timbered. The surface is generally level, except on the banks of the Ohio. The soil is sandy, but yields good crops.
Pope county contains 2610 inhabitants. It is attached to the fourth judicial circuit; sends two members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Golconda.
Randolph county is situated in the western part of the state, and is large and populous. It is bounded north by the counties of Monroe, St. Clair and Washington, east by Jefferson and
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Franklin, and south and west by Jackson county and the Mississippi river. Its greatest length is 54 miles; greatest breadth, 27: area, 828 square miles.This county is watered by the Kaskaskia and Little Muddy rivers, Beaucoup creek, and several other smaller streams. At the mouth of the Kaskaskia river commences the American bottom, which extends along the bank of the Mississippi northwardly upwards of one hundred miles. It is the most fertile tract of land in the state. Upon this the first settlements were made by the French of Canada. Their villages still retain much of their antique appearance. Below the mouth of the Kaskaskia, the bank of the Mississippi is generally high and rocky, affording good sites for towns.
In the interior of this county, the surface is frequently undulating, and sometimes hilly. It contains 5492 inhabitants. It is attached to the third judicial circuit; sends three members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Kaskaskia.
Sangamon county was erected from Bond and Madison in 1821. It is bounded north by the county of Pike, east by Fayette, south and west by the counties of Montgomery, Greene and Pike. Its greatest length is 126 miles; greatest breadth, 75 miles; its area is 5292 square miles.
This county is washed on the west by the Illinois. The interior is watered by the Sangamo river and its numerous tributaries, and also by several considerable streams emptying into the Illinois above and below.
The county of Sangamon, ever since its first settlement, has been justly esteemed the most desirable tract in the state; and it consequently has been settled with a rapidity heretofore unequalled. Previous to 1819, not a white inhabitant was to be found on the waters of the Sangamo; at present the population amounts to near 5000, while not a single acre of the land has as yet been brought into market. The Sangamo river, which runs a northeasterly course through the southern part of this county, may, at a trifling expense, be made navigable for nearly two hundred
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miles; it is now obstructed by timber. This stream passes through a tract of country which is seldom excelled in fertility. It is high and undulating, well watered with creeks and springs, and is beautifully interspersed with timber and prairie, the former of which consists principally of hickory, maple, oak, &c. The prairies frequently contain fine groves of timber, some of which, from their appearance, have received the names of Elkheart grove, Buffaloheart grove, &c. These groves are generally elevated above the surrounding prairie, and are most advantageous situations for settlement. The inhabitants reside on the margin of the timber, extending their plantations to any distance into the prairie. The groves above mentioned already contain a large and respectable population, from different parts of the United States. During the last session of the legislature, a company was incorporated by the name of the "Sangamo milling company," with a capital of 830,000. This will be of immense advantage to the inhabitants of this tract.This county contains a number of salt springs, some of which will prove valuable when the land in the vicinity shall have been surveyed and sold to individuals. Coal is also abundant.
The population of Sangamon county cannot be correctly estimated. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and one to the senate, Its seat of justice is Springfield.
St. Clair county is situated in the western part of the state. It is bounded north by Madison county, east by Washington, south by Randolph, and west by Monroe county and the Mississippi river. Its greatest length is 36 miles; greatest breadth 38: its area is 702 square miles.
This county is watered by the Kaskaskia river. Silver, Richland, and Cahokia creeks. On the west it is washed by the Mississippi. The surface is generally undulating, and sometimes hilly. On the banks of the Mississippi there is a low and fertile alluvion. In the interior are several very rich and flourishing settlements. Maize is as yet the staple of this county, although other grains are raised in considerable abundance.
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St. Clair county contains 5243 inhabitants. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends three members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Belleville.
Union county is situated in the southern part of the state, and is small, but populous. It is bounded north by the counties of Jackson and Franklin, east by Johnson, south by Alexander, and west by the Mississippi river. Its greatest length is 24 miles, and its breadth 18: its area is 396 square miles.
This county is washed on the west by the Mississippi river. The interior is watered by Muddy river. Clear creek, and the sources of Cash river.
Union county contains a population of 2236. It is attached to the fourth judicial circuit; sends two members to the house of representatives, and with Alexander, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Jonesborough.
Washington county is situated near the central part of the state. Its form is a square of 30 miles, with an area of 900 square miles. It is bounded north by the counties of Madison, Bond and Fayette; east by Jefferson; south by Randolph, and west by St. Clair.
This county is watered by the Kaskaskia river, and numerous tributaries emptying into it on the east and west side. The banks of these streams are generally well timbered, but in the interior, the prairies are extensive, and sometimes sterile. The surface is generally level. The grand prairie passes through the northeast corner of the county. Washington contains 1517 inhabitants. It is attached to the third judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Covington.
Wayne county is situated in the interior of the state. It is bounded north by the counties of Crawford and Fayette; east
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by Lawrence and Edwards; south by White and Hamilton, and west by Jefferson. Its greatest length is 33 miles -- breadth 24 -- its area is 720 square miles. This county is watered by the Little Wabash river, and several of its tributaries. It is handsomely interspersed with prairie and woodland, and contains several saline springs.Wayne contains 1114 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Lawrence, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Fairfield.
White county is situated in the southeastern part of the state. Its form is nearly a square, of 21 miles, containing an area of 441 square miles. It is bounded north by the counties of Edwards and Wayne; east by the Wabash river; south by Gallatin county, and west by Hamilton.
The eastern boundary of this county is washed by the Wabash river, the interior is watered by the Little Wabash, and its numerous tributaries. The remarks heretofore made with regard to the inundation of these streams in the counties of Edwards and Lawrence, apply here. The banks of these streams are generally timbered. In the interior are large prairies. The situation of this county is so very advantageous, that it will no doubt become populous and wealthy. It already furnishes a considerable quantity of surplus produce for the southern market.
White county contains upwards of 2000 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends three members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Carmi.
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OF THE
TOWNS, VILLAGES, RIVERS, CREEKS, &c. &c.
IN THE STATE OF ILLINOIS.
Allbion, a post town, the capital of Edwards county, situated: on section 2, of township 2 south, in range 10, east of the third principal meridian, 40 miles southwest of Vincennes, and 110 southeast of Vandalia. It was laid out 3 years since by Messrs. Birkbeck and Flowers, and is principally inhabited by English emigrants. It contains 4 or 5 stores, a market, a mill, and a population of upwards of 200. The situation of this place is high and healthy, being little subject to those diseases which are so prevalent in many parts of this state during the summer and autumn. The surrounding country, which is rapidly increasing, in population, is very fertile, and is handsomely diversified with woodland and prairie.
Alton (lower,) a small post town of Madison county, laid out by Col. R. Easton, in 1818, on fractional sections thirteen and fourteen, in township 5 north, in range 10, west of the third principal meridian. It is situated on the east side of the Mississippi river, on a rocky bluff, which forms the northern boundary of the American bottom, two miles above the junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi, and 18 miles below the mouth of the Illinois. The population of this place is rapidly increasing, and the improvements are going on with great activity. Alton, although as yet small and unimportant, possesses natural advantages rarely equalled. Situated as it is at the junction of three large and navigable rivers; possessing a fine commodious harbor, and landing for boats at all seasons of the year; surrounded by a fertile and thickly settled country, it Lids fair to become a populous, wealthy and commercial town. The fact that this is almost the only good town site on the eastern
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bank of the Mississippi, is much in its favour. Stone coal, of a good quality, is found in abundance at a short distance from this place. It is overlaid by strata of limestone and sandstone; the former of which furnishes good lime; and the latter, possessing a fine grit, is quarried for architectural purposes. Gypsum has also been discovered in this vicinity, but it is still uncertain whether it exists in any considerable quantity. In addition to these advantages, tine road leading from the east to Boonslick and Salt river countries, passes through this place, and crosses the Mississippi at Fountain ferry. Alton is in lat. 38° 53' N. 20 miles north of St. Louis, and 60 miles west of Vandalia.Alton, (upper,) a small post-town of Madison county, about one mile east of Lower Alton, laid out in 1816, and incorporated under the government of a board of trustees in 1831. The limits of the incorporation include all that part of section 7 of township 5 north, in range 9, west of the 3d principal meridian, lying south of a tract in said section, commonly called the Hodges tract, of 255 acres.
The situation of this town is high and healthy. It contains nearly 100 houses. The inhabitants, a great proportion of whom are from the eastern states, are enterprising and industrious. The soil of the surrounding lands is generally fertile; the face of the country undulating; the prevailing growth, walnut, hickory, and oak.
The original proprietors of Alton made a donation of 100 town lots, one half for the support of the gospel, and the other half for the support of public schools. These, by the art of incorporation, are placed under the direction of the trustees.
America, a post town, and the county scat of Alexander, situated on the west bank of the Ohio river, 10 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. It was incorporated in 1821, under the government of five trustees. The boundaries of the incorporation included sections nine, ten, three and four of township 16 south, in range 1, east of the 3d principal meridian.
This town is situated at the mouth of Cash river, a small stream emptying into the Ohio, and on the first high land above the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi. On this account it may become a place of some importance. At present, however,
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it contains but few inhabitants. The surrounding country is low, marshy, and subject to intermittent and bilious remittent fevers. America is situated in Lat. 37° 10' N. and 125 miles due south of Vandalia.Apple creek, a small stream of Greene county; runs a west course, and empties into the Illinois river, in section 36, township 11 north, in range 14, west of the 3d principal meridian.
Athens, a small town in St. Clair county, 27 miles southeast from St. Louis, and 14 miles nearly south from Belleville. It is situated on a high bank of the Kaskaskia river. The lands in the vicinity are generally of a good quality, and abound with springs of the finest water. There is a ferry here, and a number of saw and grist mills in the vicinity. The new road from St. Louis to Shawneetown by this place and Big Beaucoup, is said to shorten the distance several miles.
Aurora, a post town, and the seat of justice of Clark county.
Au Vase river, see Big Muddy.
Balance creek, a small stream, forming a part of the boundary between Sangamo and Greene counties. It runs a westerly course, and empties into the Illinois on the left side, four miles below the mouth of Crooked creek.
Bachelor's run, a small stream of Sangamon county; holds a west course, and empties into the Illinois on the east side, nearly opposite Fort Clark. On its banks are several beautiful and fertile prairies, which already contain a comparatively dense population, constituting the must northern settlement on the east bank of the Illinois.
Battery rocks, a ledge of perpendicular rocks on the right bank of the Ohio, 24 miles below the mouth of the Wabash, and 8 above Cave in Rock.
Bean river, (Riviera au Feve, Fr.) a navigable stream of Pike county, emptying into the Mississippi three miles below Catfish creek, twenty miles below Dubuque's mines, and about
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seventy above Rock river. Nine miles up this stream, a small creek empties into it from the west. The banks of this creek, and the hills which bound its alluvion, are filled with lead ore of the best quality. Three miles below this, on the banks of Bean river, is the Trader's village, consisting of 10 or 12 houses or cabins. At this place, the ore procured from, or brought in by the Indians, is smelted, and then sent in boats either to Canada or New Orleans. The mines are at present extensively worked by Col. Johnson of Kentucky, who, during the last session of congress, obtained the exclusive right of working them for three years.From the rapids of Bean river, which are about three miles above the creek, to its mouth, the current is very gentle, and the water deep -- affording navigation at all seasons to boats of the largest size, and thus presenting every facility for exporting the lead.
The lands on this stream are poor, and only valuable on account of the immense quantities of mineral which they contain.
Bear creek, (Mah-waw-kee-ta, Ind.) a stream of the northwestern part of the state. It runs a westerly course, and empties into the Mississippi near the northern boundary line of Illinois. At the mouth of this stream the bluffs approach the Mississippi, and form a commanding site for a fort.
Beaver creek, a small stream, rising in township 5 north, in range 2 and 3 west of the 3d principal meridian, and running a southerly course through Bond and Washington counties, empties into Shoal creek on the left side, in the upper part of township 1 north, in range 4 west. It is about twenty-five miles in length, and waters a very fertile tract of country.
Beaucoup creek, see Big and Little Beaucoup.
Beck's creek,a small stream of Fayette county. It rises in township 11 north, in range 1, east of the 3d principal meridian; runs a southeast course about 20 miles, and empties into the Kaskaskia river on the west side. The lands between this creek and an easterly branch which rises in township 10 north, in range 3 east, are first rate, handsomely diversified with timber and
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prairie. On this stream are situated Beck's and Wakefield's settlements, each consisting of about 20 families.Belleville, a flourishing post town, and the seat of justice of St. Clair county. It is situated on the east bank of Richland creek, four miles east of the bluffs, which bound the American bottom, and fifteen miles southeast of St. Louis. It contains a court house, a jail, an academy, and a public library. The academy is under the government often trustees, who have the power of leasing upon their own terms for ten years, section l6 of township 1 in range 8, west of the third principal meridian, reserved for the use of schools in said township. The population of this town is upwards of five hundred. It is in the centre of the Turkey-Hill settlement, which is one of the most flourishing in the state.
Belleville is in latitude 38° 25' north, 60 miles southwest of Vandalia. It is located on an old Spanish claim, including parts of sections 22, 23, 27 and 28, of township 1 north, in range 8 west of the third principal meridian.
Belgrade, a post town in Pope county. It is situated on the Ohio river, on the southern parts of sections 8 and 9, of township 16 south, in range 5, east of the third principal meridian. -- It contains from 13 to 20 houses and cabins, which are frequently deserted on account of the inundations of the Ohio. The surrounding country is low and marshy.
Big Bay creek, a small stream rising in the northeastern part of Johnson county, and running in a southwardly direction through the centre of Pope county, falls into the Ohio in section 36, of township 14 south, in range 6, east of the third principal meridian, ten miles above the mouth of Cumberland river. It is nearly 30 miles in length.
Big Beaucoup creek, rises in the southeastern part of Washington county, and running a southwardly course through Randolph and Jackson counties, about 40 miles, falls into Big Mud, by river, in section 35, of township 7 south, in range 2, west of the third principal meridian. A toll bridge has lately been built across this stream, where the state road leading from Shawneetown to Kaskaskia crosses it.
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Big Muddy river, (Riviere au Vase, ou Vaseux, discovered and named by the French,) a considerable stream in the southwestern part of the state. It rises between the waters of the Kaskaskia and Little Wabash, and running a southern and southwestern course through the counties of Jefferson, Franklin, Jackson and Union, empties into the Mississippi, between sections 1 and 12, of township 11 south, in range 4, west of the 3d principal meridian, about 50 miles above the mouth of the Ohio. Being fed by Little Muddy river, Beacoup creek, and several other smaller streams, it is rendered boatable for 40 or 50 miles through a fine prairie country. About 25 miles from its mouth, Stone coal of a good quality, is found in a sufficient quantity to supply the surrounding country, and afford a surplus for exportation. Native copper has also been found in detached masses on the banks of this stream.Big Piasau creek, a considerable stream of Greene and Madison counties, running a southwest course, and emptying into the Mississippi on the left side, at Smeltzer's Ferry, 5 miles above Alton, and 12 below the mouth of the Illinois, in section 25, of township 6 north, in range 11, west of the third principal meridian. Its length is about forty miles.
Birkbeck settlement, a flourishing settlement on English prairie, near Albion.
Blackbird, creek, a small stream, running a southeasterly course, and emptying into the Kaskaskia river, on the right side near its source.
Bon Pas, a creek in Edwards county. It empties into the Wabash in section 14, township 3 south, in range 14, west of the second principal meridian -- 25 miles below the mouth of White river.
Bon Pas, a small town in the northeastern part of White county. It is situated on Big Wabash river.
Brulette river, a stream of Clark county, runs a southeast course, and falls into the Wabash river, a few miles above Fort Harrison. It crosses the eastern boundary line of the state, 70 miles north of Vincennes. At this place it is 100 links in width.
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Bountyville, a town in Pike county, laid out in 1819, on the east half of section 31, of township 10 south, in range 2, west of the third principal meridian, between the bluffs and a bayou of the Mississippi. The surrounding country is fertile, but subject to inundation.Bridgewater, a small town in Monroe county, situated on L'Eagle creek, one mile east of the Mississippi, and about the game distance north of Harrisonville.
Brownsville, a flourishing post town, and the seat of justice of Jackson county, incorporated in 1819, under the direction of five trustees. It is situated on Big Muddy river, on section 2, of township 9 south, in range 3, west of the third principal meridian. The inhabitants are principally German. About 4 miles above this place, on the east bank of Muddy, is a saline: building stone of the best quality also exists in abundance.
Brownsville is in latitude 37° 45' north, 84 miles, somewhat west of south from Vandalia.
Brush creek, empties into the Sangamo river from the south, a short distance from Mowaweequa creek. There is a considerable settlement on this stream.
Buffaloe heart, a fine settlement of Sangamon county, in a grove so called, situated between Salt creek and Sangamo river, in township 14 north, in range 4, west of the 3d principal meridian. The grove is about 2 miles square, and is surrounded by a large prairie, which is gently undulating, and very fertile. The prairie is also surrounded by timber of the best quality, such as oak, walnut, maple, &c. The settlers reside on the edges of the timber, extending their plantations into the prairie. The grove, which received its name from its resemblance to the buffaloe's heart, is considerably elevated above the surrounding prairie, and affords the most beautiful situations for farm houses. It already contains a dense population.
Cairo, a town in Alexander county, laid out under the authority of the legislative council of the territory of Illinois. It is situated three, miles above the mouth of the Ohio river. (See Alexander county.)
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Cahokia creek, rises in Greene county; runs in a southwardly direction through the counties of Madison and St. Clair, and empties into the Mississippi four miles below St. Louis. On this stream are several flour mills, which, though of great importance to the inhabitants, are a prolific source of disease. This stream is so sluggish, that one dam across it in the American bottom, backs the water, following its meanders, 15 miles. In this distance it communicates with numerous ponds and marshes, which, during freshets, are filled with water barked into them from the mill-pond; and which, when the water falls, are exposed to the action of the sun.Cahokia, a post village in St. Clair county, three fourths of a mile east of the Mississippi river, and five miles south of St. Louis. It is one of the oldest settlements in the state. The Caoquias, a considerable tribe of the Illinois, had, for a long time previous to the discovery of the Mississippi, made it a resting place, probably on account of the game with which the river and the ponds in the vicinity abounded. We have no distinct account of the first settlement of this place by the French; but it is probable that it occurred shortly after La Salle descended the Mississippi in 1683. Pleased as some of his followers were with the apparent ease and happiness which the savages enjoyed, it is probable that they chose rather to remain among them, than return to their own country. Instances of this kind are frequently mentioned by Tonti and Hennepin; and as the object of the adventurous La Salle was to settle and civilize the country, their choice seldom met with opposition. Father Charlevoix, who visited this place in 1721, observes; --
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"I was astonished that they had pitched upon so inconvenient a situation, (being so far from the river,) especially as they had so many better places in their choice; but I was told the Mississippi washed the foot of that village when it was built; that in three years it has lost half a league of its breadth, and that they were thinking of seeking out another habitation." -- The Indians gradually abandoned Cahokia, as the French settlers increased: they were, however, always on the most friendly terms with them.In 1766, Cahokia contained forty families; and at the commencement of the revolution, their number had increased to about fifty. By an act of congress passed in 1788, 400 acres of land adjoining the village was granted to each family; and by a subsequent act, the lands used by the inhabitants of Cahokia and Prairie du Font in common, were appropriated to the use of said inhabitants, until otherwise directed by law.
Cahokia contains above 100 houses, the majority of which are built of pickets, one story high: they generally have piazzas on every side, and being whitewashed on the outside, have a lively appearance. Here is also a Roman Catholic chapel, in which service is regularly performed. The inhabitants, between 4 and 500 in number, are principally French. These preserve all their ancient manners and customs; with few exceptions, are poor, indolent and illiterate. The utmost extent of their industry is to raise a few acres of corn, and procure a few loads of prairie hay.
This place formerly enjoyed, on account of its proximity to the Indians, an extensive and valuable fur trade; but at present it possesses few or no advantages, and from the number of decayed and deserted houses, appears to be on the decline. The situation, although somewhat elevated, is damp and disagreeable: in high water it is frequently inundated. The Americans seldom pass a season without suffering from the effects of the miasma arising from the ponds in the vicinity. The French, whether on account of their being inured to the climate, their manner of living, or from their possessing more hardy constitutions, are little affected by it, but generally enjoy good health. -- Coal is found in the vicinity of this place. Its discovery was singular, and deserves to be noticed. "Some years since, a
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tree taking fire, communicated to its roots, which continued burning for some time: upon examination, they were found to have passed through a bed of coal. The fire continued until it was completely smothered by the falling in of large masses of incumbent earth."It may be remarked here, that a town has been laid out on a part of the commons of Cahokia, called the City of Illinois; the lots have been distributed among the citizens, and the distribution has been confirmed by a late act of congress. Its government is vested in five trustees. It possesses no advantages, and will probably never be valuable, except for, corn-fields and potato patches.
Canawaga,(Riviere des Iroquois, Fr.) a considerable river; rises in the western part of the state of Indiana, and running a north course about 100 miles, empties into the Kankakee river. It received the name of Iroquois river, from the circumstance of a large party of the Iroquois being surprised and massacred on its banks by the Illinois.
Canteen creek, a small branch of Cahokia creek, emptying in from the east about fifteen miles above its mouth.
Cap au Grais, (big,) a small stream of Greene county, emptying into the Illinois river, near its junction with the Mississippi.
Cap au Grais, (little,) a trifling stream of the southern part of Pike county.
Carlyle, a post town in Washington county, laid out in 1818,
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on the West bank of the Kaskaskia river, at Hill's ferry, in section 18, in township 2, north of range 2, west of the third principal meridian, a few miles below Hurricane and Eastforks. The situation is considerably elevated, but not so healthy as one unacquainted with it would imagine. It contains several stores, and is generally in a state of improvement. The Kaskaskia at some seasons is navigable to this place for boats of considerable burthen. The surrounding country is principally prairie, and this circumstance will perhaps be a serious injury to the town. There are several grist and saw mills here, and several quarries of good building stone. Salt water has been lately discovered in the vicinity, about 30 feet from the surface, which, from its strength, promises to be valuable.Carlyle is settled by an enterprising and industrious population, and already contains 100 houses. It was incorporated in 1819, under the government of seven trustees. Washington academy, in this place, is under the direction of seven trustees, and is in a very flourishing situation. The public road from Vincennes to St. Louis, passes through this place, as also that from Shawneetown, the Saline, and the ferries on the lower Ohio, to the mouth of the Missouri, Vandalia and the Sangamo country. The intersection of these roads from different parts of the country frequently gives it an appearance of life and business rarely to be seen in a place so remote from commerce and trade. The distance from this place to St. Louis is 60 miles -- from Vandalia 35 south.
Carmi, an incorporated post town, and the seat of justice of White county. It is situated on the west bank of the Little Wabash river, about 20 miles above its mouth, nearly in the centre of the county. It is surrounded by lands of good quality.
Carmi is in lat. 38° 5' N. 80 miles southeast of Vandalia.
Carrolton, the seat of justice of Greene county, laid out in 1821, on a prairie between the timber of the Apple creek and Ma-qua-pin, in township 10 north, in range 12, west of the 3d principal meridian. The surrounding country is very fertile, and is rapidly increasing in population. The prairie west of the town is low and wet, but with little expense could be completely drained.
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Cash river, a navigable stream in the southern part of the State. It rises in the northern parts of Johnson and Union counties, near the third principal meridian, runs a south course about 20 miles; then turns to the southeast, and continues in that direction until it empties into the Ohio seven or eight miles above its mouth. Previous to its turning to the southeast, it approaches within a mile and a half of the Mississippi, several miles above the junction of the Ohio. At this place it is contemplated to unite the Cash and Mississippi, by means of a canal. This will be a considerable saving of distance, and the means of avoiding the disagreeable navigation at the mouth of the Ohio. This stream was declared navigable by the legislature of the state, from its mouth to the junction of its two main forks, in township 13 south, in ranges, east of the third principal meridian. The object of this is to prevent its being obstructed by mill dams. -- It is, however, only navigable about 12 or 15 miles.Cash river is about 30 miles in length; receives several tributaries, on one of which. Big creek, iron ore of a good quality has been found.
Cave Creek, rises in the southern part of Gallatin county, and empties into the Ohio, 12 miles below Saline creek. It is a very inconsiderable stream.
Cave in Rock. -- This natural curiosity is to be seen on the Ohio river, 30 miles below the mouth of the Wabash. It is a large cave, called by the Indians, "the habitation of the Great Spirit." The following description was taken on the spot by a gentleman of observation.
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the rocks project so far, that they seem almost disposed to leave their doubtful situations After a short relief from this scene, you come to a second, which is something similar to the first; and here, with strict scrutiny, you can discover the cave. Before its mouth stands a delightful grove of cypress trees, arranged immediately on the hank of the river. They have a fine appearance, and add much to the cheerfulness of the plate. The mouth of the cave is but a few feet above the ordinary level of the river, and is formed by a semicircular arch of about 80 feet at its base, and 25 feet in height, the top projecting considerably over, forming a regular concave. From the entrance to the extremity, which is about 180 feet, it has a regular and gradual ascent. On either side is a solid bench of rock; the arch coming to a point about the middle of the cave, where you discover an opening sufficiently large to receive the body of a man, through which comes a small stream of fine water, made use of by those who visit this place. From this hole, a second cave is discovered, whose dimensions, form, &c. are not known. The rock is of limestone. The sides of the cave are covered with inscriptions, names of persons, dates, &c." In 1797, this cave was the rendezvous of Mason's gang of robbers, who plundered and murdered the crews of boats descending the Ohio. It still serves as a temporary abode for those, wanting shelter, in case of shipwreck, or other accidents, which frequently happen to emigrants. Families have been known to reside here for a considerable length of time. The trees which formerly sheltered the mouth of this cave, have been cut down and it is now completely exposed to view. The limestone, which forms its walls, abounds with shells, at once pointing out its secondary character.Although this cave is inferior to many others on the Illinois and Mississippi, it is well worthy the attention of the curious and scientific.
Cedar creek, a small stream of Jackson and Union counties. It runs a northwest course, and empties into Big Muddy river, in section 11, of township 10 south, in range 3, west of the third principal meridian.
Cedar creek, a small stream of Pike county, runs a westerly
Chenail-ecarte, (Snicarty), an arm or bayou of the Mississippi, in Pike county, commonly called a "sloo." It extends from the middle of township 3 south, and continues through the alluvion, from one to four miles from the river, to the upper part of township 8 south. It is about 40 miles in length. The lands in the vicinity are first rate, but are subject to annual inundations from the river.
Chicago, a village in Pike county, situated on Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Chicago creek. It contains 12 or 15 houses, and about 60 or 70 inhabitants. From this place to Green Bay, by the way of the lake, the distance is 275 miles, and 400 to the island of Michillimackinac. On the south side of the creek stands Fort Dearborn. "The country around Chicago is the most fertile and beautiful that can be imagined. It consists of an intermixture of woods and prairies, diversified with gentle slopes, sometimes attaining the elevation of hills, and irrigated with a number of clear streams and rivers, which throw their waters partly into Lake Michigan, and partly into the Mississippi river. -- As a farming country, it unites the fertile soil of the finest lowland prairies, with an elevation, which exempts it from the influence of stagnant waters, and a summer climate of delightful serenity; while its natural meadows present all the advantages for raising stock, of the most favored part of the valley of the Mississippi. It is already the seat of several flourishing plantations, and only requires the extinguishment of the Indian title to the lands, to become one of the most attractive fields for the emigrant. To the ordinary advantages of an agricultural market town, it must hereafter add that of a depot for the inland commerce, between the northern and southern sections of the union, and a great thoroughfare for strangers, merchants and travellers." (Schoolcraft's Travels.)
Chicago creek, an arm of Lake Michigan, dividing itself into two branches at the distance of one mile inland from its communication with the lake. The north branch extends along the west side of the lake; is about 10 or 11 miles in length, and is
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supplied from the prairies. The south branch has an extent of several miles, and communicates with a lake. In wet seasons, boats of considerable size pass from this stream to the Des Plaines, and thence down the Illinois. The entrance of the Chicago into the lake is about 80 yards wide. At present it is obstructed by a sand-bar, which will only admit fronts to pass over it. Several expedients have been proposed for removing this bar; and among the number, one of the most ingenious, and perhaps the most practicable, is that of turning the Kalamick river, by means of a short canal, into the Chicago above the, fort, and thus, by the increased volume of water, to drive out the sand which is continually thrown up by the lake. It is feared, however, that the construction of a good harbour will be attended with much difficulty and expense.This stream has, for nearly a century, been one of the most common northern routes to the Illinois and Mississippi. The greatest proportion of the furs of the northwest are conveyed through this channel to the lower lakes.
City of Illinois, see Illinois city.
Clear creek, a small stream in the southern part of the state. It rises in Union county, and running in a southerly direction about 25 miles, empties into the Mississippi in the northern part of Alexander county, 40 miles above the mouth of the Ohio. There are many small branches emptying into it from the east.
Colesgrove, a post town and the seat of justice of Pike county. It was laid out in 1821, and is situated in township 11 south, in range 2, west of the fourth principal meridian. Very little improvement has as yet been made in this place, or the vicinity. The situation of the town is high and healthy, and it bids fair to become a place of some importance.
College township, 5 north, in range 1, west of the 3d principal meridian, 6 miles square, granted by the United States to this state, for the support of a seminary of learning. The northern boundary is three miles below Vandalia. It is watered by the Kaskaskia and several of its tributaries, and is in general first rate land. It is situated in Fayette county.
By an act passed in 1821, the auditor of public accounts was
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authorised to lease, to any individuals applying for that purpose, any of the lands in this township, upon the following terms, viz. The lessee shall make his entry either for one hundred and sixty or eighty acres, as he may choose, in a book kept by the auditor for that purpose, and shall have the, land the first three years free and clear of all rents whatever; and after that time, shall pay at the rate of 6 per cent per annum, on the quantity of land he may enter, estimating the land in every instance at two dollars per acre: the lessee to be bound to commit no waste; and should he not take possession within twelve months of the date of his entry, to perfect his lease, the auditor shall have power to distrain for rent, in the same way that any landlord in this state could or might do. Provided, however, that no lease be for a longer term than ten years; and that any, or all of the lessees shall be entitled to a credit out of his rent for the value thereof, if he chooses to plant any apple trees, not exceeding two hundred, upon any one quarter section; which he must do to entitle him to credit within the first seven years of his lease. The improvements are also bound for rent, and may be sold therefor.Colombo creek, runs a southeast course through the northwestern part of Jackson county, and empties into Big Beaucoup creek.
Columbia, a small post town, and formerly that seat of justice of Franklin county. It is situated about three miles east of Big Muddy river, in section 19 of township 7 south, in range 3, west of the 3d principal meridian.
Copperas creek, a small stream of Pike county. It rises in township 8 north, in range 5, east of the 4th principal meridian; runs a southerly course, and empties into the Illinois river in section 24 of township 6 north, in range 5, east of the 4th principal meridian.
Covington, an incorporated post town, and the seat of justice of Washington county, situated on the left bank of the Kaskaskia river, in section 33 of township 1 north, in range 3, west of the 3d principal meridian. This place is nearly central for the county, and from present appearances promises to become of considerable importance. It is under the government of five
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trustees. By an act of the last legislature, a toll bridge is to be built across the Kaskaskia, opposite the town.Covington is in latitude 38° 25' north; 50 miles east-southeast of St. Louis, and 45 southwest of Vandalia.
Crooked creek, a small stream of Washington county. It rises in township 1 north, in range 1, east of the 3d principal meridian, and running a westerly course, empties into the Kaskaskia river in section 27 of township 1 north, in range 3, west of the 3d principal meridian.
Crooked creek, a navigable stream of the Illinois military tract, which, from its length, deserves more properly the name of river. It rises by two heads in township 7 north, and after their union, runs a southeasterly course, and empties into the Illinois river in section 15 of township 1 south, in range 1, west of the 4th principal meridian, 100 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. The length of this stream is about 100 miles, and it extends nearly the whole, distance across the tract. The lands on this stream are generally first rate, but those immediately on its banks are subject to occasional inundation. It has many small tributaries emptying into it from the east and west, which afford good mill-seats. A short distance above its mouth is a very large pond, which no doubt will be a source of disease to the settlers. -- Coal, iron ore, and fine freestone abound in the banks of Crooked creek.
Crow Meadow river, a considerable stream in the northern part of the state. It rises in the hills near the head waters of the Vermilion of the Wabash, and running a northwest course, empties into the Illinois a short distance above Lake Peoria. It is more than 20 yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable for some distance. Little is as yet known of the lands on the banks of this stream.
Demiquain, a large lake emptying into the Illinois on the east side, 3 miles below the mouth of Spoon river. It is several miles in length, and from 1 to 2 in breadth. In ascending the Illinois, it is very common for those who are unacquainted with the navigation, to run up the lake; to avoid this, it is necessary to keep close to the west shore from Spoon river. At the lake,
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the river turns to the west, nearly at right angles with its former course.Des Plaines, see Riviere des Plaines.
Diamond Grove, a fine settlement in Greene county. It is situated in the centre of a large prairie, on the head waters of Mauvaise-terre creek, 25 miles from the Illinois river. The grove is in the form of a diamond. The surrounding country is beautifully interspersed with prairie and woodland; and its advantages in point of health, good water, fertility, &c. are such as to insure to it a dense population. It may be considered as one of the most desirable tracts in the state. Diamond grove is 75 miles northwest of Alton, from which place there is a public road. The first settlement was commenced in 1820.
Donaldson, a town in Washington county, one mile east of Carlyle. It is laid out on sections 17 and 20, of township 2 north, in range 2, west of the 3d principal meridian, about 2 or 300 yards from the Kaskaskia river, on an elevated eastern bank. This town is as yet little more than laid out on paper. The country in the vicinity is tolerably fertile, but the proportion of prairie is too great to secure to it a very dense population. In the vicinity of Donaldson there is a spring, which is said to be medicinal.
Duchet river, a considerable stream in the northern part of the state. It empties into the Wabash river between Fort Harrison and Tippecanoe river. (I have noticed this stream upon the authority of several authors, although it is not laid down upon the survey of the eastern boundary line of Illinois, which it must cross if the above description is correct.
Du Page river, see Riviere du Page.
Eagle creek, see L'Aigle creek,
Edwards river, a considerable stream in the northern part of the Illinois military tract. It rises in township 15 north, in range 1, west of the 4th principal meridian, and running a westerly course to the middle of township 14 north, in range 5
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west, turns to the south, and empties into the Mississippi on the east side, in section 16, of township 13 north, in range 5 west of the fourth principal meridian. It is navigable for a short distance, and passes through a district of country high and undulating, but abounding with prairies, which, in many instances, are very extensive.Edwardsville, an incorporated post town, and the seat of justice of Madison county. The old town was laid out in 1815, on a branch of the Cahokia creek, in sections 2, 3 and 11, of township 4 north, in range 8, west of the third principal meridian, and 20 miles northeast of St. Louis. It contains a court house, a jail, a laud office, a brick market, and about 60 or 70 dwelling houses. The inhabitants are generally enterprising and industrious. In the vicinity, is a grist mill, on the branch of the Cahokia creek. The growth of this place has been very rapid, and it bids fair to become an important inland town. The new town was laid out about three or four years since, and being principally owned by a few wealthy individuals, it nourished considerably. Here is a bank, and a printing office, from which is issued a weekly paper, entitled the "Edwardsville Spectator." A great rivalship exists between the inhabitants of these towns, which, though it may have been a temporary advantage, will finally be an injury to both.
The local situation of Edwardsville is pleasant. It is on the highlands, which bound the American bottom, and the centre of a fertile and healthy country, well watered and timbered, and, gently undulating, presenting at once to the agriculturalist the most desirable place for settlement. It would be useless to observe that this country is rapidly settling with frugal and industrious farmers. In the vicinity, many plantations have been, opened by persons residing in the, town, who find it much to their advantage to devote a part of their attention to agriculture.
Edwardsville is in latitude 38° 45' north, 50 miles east-southeast of Vandalia.
Elkheart grove, a fine settlement of Sangamon county, in township 17 north, in range 5, west of the third principal meridian, between Saline creek and the Sangamo river. The grove
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contains about 1000 acres of the finest timber; it is considerably elevated above the surrounding prairie, and is already thickly settled. The surrounding country, for some distance, is generally interspersed with prairies and woodland; high, undulating, healthy and well-watered, and for fanning purposes, cannot be excelled.Elkhorn creek, a small stream of Washington county. It rises in township 3 south, in range 4, west of the third principal meridian, and running a northwest course about 20 miles, empties into the Kaskaskia on the left side, in section 30, of township 1 south, in range 5, west of the third principal meridian.
Ellison's prairie, a beautiful prairie, situated between the Embarras and Wabash rivers, and containing a large and flourishing settlement. It is surrounded by a belt of the finest timber.
Elvira, a town of Union county, situated on Cash river.
Embarras river, (Embroy,) a navigable stream in the eastern part of the state. It rises in Clark county, near the sources of the Kaskaskia and Little Wabash rivers, and running a southeast course, empties into the Wabash on the west side, 5 miles below Vincennes. The banks of this stream are low and subject to inundations, but heavily timbered and fertile. There are many valuable mill-scats on the Embarras and its tributaries.
Fairfield, a small post town, and the seat of justice of Wayne county. It has been but recently laid out, and contains as yet but few inhabitants.
Feve river, see Bean river.
Fort Chartres, a large stone fort, built by the French while in possession of the Illinois country. It is situated about a half mile east of the Mississippi river, six miles above the village of Prairie du Rocher, and about a mile west of the bottom road from St. Louis to Kaskaskia. It is unquestionably among the most astonishing works of art in our country.
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This fort was originally built by the French in the year 1720, to defend themselves against the Spaniards -- about the same time that New-Orleans was founded. In 1756 it was rebuilt in its present form.
The only particular description of this fort which I have been able to find, is contained in Capt. Pittman's history of the European settlements on the Mississippi, published in 1770. It is as follows:
"Fort Chartres, when it belonged to France, was the seat of government of the Illinois. The head quarters of the English commanding officer is now here, who in fact is the arbitrary governor of this country. The fort is an irregular quadrangle; the sides of the exterior polygon are 490 feet. It is built of stone, and plastered over, and is only designed as a defence against the Indians. The walls are two feet two inches thick, and are pierced with loopholes at regular distances, and with two port-holes for cannon in the faces, and two in the flanks of each bastion. The ditch has never been finished. The entrance to the fort is through a very handsome rustic gate. Within the walls is a banquette raised three feet, for the men to stand on when they fire through the loop-holes. The buildings within the fort are, a commandant's and commissary's house, the magazine of stores, corps de garde, and two barracks; these occupy the square. Within the gorges of the bastion are a powder magazine, a hake-house, and a prison, in the lower floor of which are four dungeons, and in the upper, two rooms, and an out house belonging to the commandant. The commandant's house is thirty-two yards long and ten broad, and contains a kitchen, a dining-room, a bed-chamber, one small room, five closets for servants, and a cellar. The commissary's house (now occupied by officers) is built on the same line as this, and its proportion and the distribution of its apartments are the same. Opposite these are the store-house and guard-house; they are each thirty yards long and eight broad. The Conner consists of two large storerooms, (under which is a large vaulted cellar,) a large room, a bed-chamber, and a closet for the store-keeper; the latter, of a soldiers' and officers' guard-room, a chapel, a bed-chamber, a closet for the chaplain, and an artillery store-room. The lines of barracks have never been finished; they at present consist
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of two rooms each for officers, and three for soldiers: they are each twenty feet square, and have betwixt them a small passage. There are fine spacious lofts over each building, which reach from end to end; these are made use of to lodge regimental stores, working and intrenching tools, &c. It is generally believed that this is the most convenient and best built fort in North America."Such was this fort half a century since. Since it was first erected, several changes have taken place in the channel of the Mississippi, which it may not be uninteresting to notice.
Father Charlevoix, who visited the Mississippi in 1721, observes, that "Fort Chartres stands about the distance of a musket shot from the river; and that M. Duque de Boisbrillard, a gentleman of Canada, commands here for the company, to whom this place belongs."
In 1756, it was a half mile from the water side; in 1766, it was but eighty paces. In 1770, Capt. Pittman observes, "the bank of the Mississippi is continually falling in, being worn away by the current, which has been turned from its course by a sand-bank, now increased to a considerable island, covered with willows. Eight years ago the river was fordable to the island; the channel is now forty feet deep." After this time the river was gradually making encroachments, and about 1772, it inundated its banks, and formed a channel so near the fort, that one side of it, and two of its bastions were thrown down, which circumstance induced the British to abandon it. Since its abandonment, a bar has again been formed in front of the fort, nearly half a mile in width, and is covered with a thick growth of cotton wood and willows.
At present this work exhibits only a splendid ruin. The Mississippi, as before stated, has, by its encroachments, torn away the front or west face, and those parts of the wall which have escaped, have been destroyed by the neighboring inhabitants. In front, all that remains, is a small stone cellar, which has no doubt been a magazine: some distance above, or north of this, is an excavation in the earth, which has the appearance of having, been burned; it may have been a furnace for heating shot as one of the cannon must have been in this vicinity. Not a vestige of the wall is to be seen on this side, except a few
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stones, which still remain in the ravine below. At the south-east angle there is a gate, and the wall is perfect. It is about fifteen feet high and three feet thick, and is built of coarse limestone, quarried in the hills about two miles distant, and is well cemented. The south side is, with few exceptions, perfect; as is also the southeast bastion. The northeast is generally in ruins. On the east face are two port holes for cannon, which are still perfect; they are about three feet square, formed by solid rocks or clefts worked smooth, and into proper shape; here is also a large gate, 18 feet wide, the sides of which still remain in a state of tolerable preservation; the cornices and casements, however, which formerly ornamented it, have all been taken away. A considerable portion of the north side of the fort, has also been destroyed.The houses, which make up the square in the inside, are generally in ruins. Sufficient, however, remains to enable the visitor to ascertain exactly their dimensions and relative situations. The well, which is little injured by time, is about twenty-four feet north of the northeast house, which, according to Pittman, was the commandant's house. The banquette is entirely destroyed. The magazine is in a perfect state, and is an uncommon specimen of solidity. Its walls are four feet thick, and it is arched in the inside.
Over the whole fort, there is a considerable growth of trees, and in the hall of one of the houses, there is an oak about eighteen inches in diameter.
In the vicinity of the fort are the ruins of a small village. In 1764, it contained about forty families, and also a parish church, dedicated to St. Anne, and served by a Franciscan friar. When the English took possession of the country, they all abandoned their houses, except three or four poor familes, and settled in the villages on the west side of the Mississippi, choosing to continue under the French government.
The history of this fort is interesting, as it is intimately connected with the early history of the country.
Ever since the discovery of Louisiana by the French, it appears to have been a favourite object with them to secure a communication between the Canadas and the sea. As soon as the Spaniards became aware of their designs, and the vast importance
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which the country thus secured would be to them, they became jealous of their neighbours, and began to make encroachments upon them, and as early as the year 1699, they attempted to prevent the landing of M. D'lberville, with his colony at the mouth of the Mississippi.It was not, however, until after the grant made by Louis XIV. to Crozat had been retroceded, and the celebrated company of the west formed, that the possession of Louisiana excited such lively interest. When it was supposed that the precious metals were to be found here in abundance, then it was that the eyes of all the speculating capitalists of Europe were turned to the new world. They seized with avidity an opportunity to enrol themselves as members of the company, and partake of the promised wealth. Under the direction and management of M. Law, whose genius, talents and influence were of the highest order, each supposed that his coffers were already filled, and his happiness complete.
It was during this paroxysm, that the establishment of Fort Chartres was first projected. It was considered an advantageous site, being in the centre of the settlements; but more particularly as being in the vicinity of the mines, which they supposed would need protection and defence. It continued under the direction of the company until 1731, when their splendid schemes having totally failed, this, together with the whole territory, was retroceded to the crown, and continued in its possession until the year 1762, when it was ceded to the British, who, however, did not take possession of it until 1765. In 1772, Fort Chartres was abandoned by the British, and has never since been occupied. At present, its only use is to furnish building materials to the inhabitants in the vicinity.
Annexed is a plan of the fort, drawn from a survey made by N. HANSEN, Esq. of Illinois, and myself, in 1820.
AAAAAAAAA The exterior wall -- 1447 feet.
B The gate or entrance to the fort.
C A small gate.
DD The two houses formerly occupied by the commandant and commissary, each 96 feet in length, and 30 in breadth.
E The well.
F The magazine.
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GGGG Houses formerly occupied as barracks, 135 feet in length, 36 in breadth.HH Formerly occupied as a store Louse and guard house, 98 feet by 24.
I The remains of a small magazine.
K The remains of a furnace.
LLL A ravine, which in the spring is filled with water. Between this and the river, which is about half a mile, is a thick growth of cotton wood.
The area of the fort is about four square acres.
Fort Clark, see Peoria.
Fort Dearborn, a military post on the south shore of Chicago creek, 4 or 500 yards from its entrance into Lake Michigan -- consisting of a square stockade, inclosing barracks, quarters for the officers, a magazine, provision-store, &c. and defended by bastions at the northwest and southeast angles. Its situation is high and pleasant; and should the canal be completed between the lake and the Illinois river, this must become a place of considerable consequence, being the only good town site on the margin of the lake for several miles. It is at present occupied by a hundred and sixty men, under the command of Captain Bradford. It is 63 miles due west from the St. Joseph of the lakes, and by the meanders of the south limb of the lake, 99 miles, according to the survey of Major Whistler.
This fort was abandoned in 1812, in consequence of the disgraceful surrender of Gen. Hull. A great number of the troops shortly after leaving the fort, were inhumanly murdered by the savages, who lay in ambush on the margin of the lake. The following account of this affair is extracted from M'Afee's history of the late war in the western country. "On the morning of the 15th (Aug.) at sunrise, the troops, consisting of about 70 men, with some women and children, marched from the fort, with pack horses in the centre, and Capt. Wells with his Indians in the rear. They had proceeded about a mile from the fort, when the front guard was fired on by the savages, who were posted behind a sandbank on the margin of the lake, and in a skirt of woods which the party was approaching, the rest of the country around them being an open prairie. At the same time they
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saw a body of Indians passing to their rear, to cut off their retreat to the fort. The firing now became general, and the troops seeing nothing but death and massacre before them, formed in line of battle, and returned the fire of the enemy with much bravery and success, as they slowly retreated in the prairie. -- The Indians made several desperate efforts to rush up and tomahawk them; but every charge was repulsed by the firmness of the troops, who fought with desperation, determined to sell their lives as dear as possible. Capt. Wells being killed, his Indians retired from the party and joined the others. Several women and children were also killed; and our ranks were at last so reduced, as scarcely to exceed twenty effective men: yet they continued resolute, and stuck together, resolved to fight while one remained able to fire. But the Indians now withdrew some distance, and sent a small French boy to demand a surrender. The boy was Capt. Heald's interpreter, who had run off to the Indians at the commencement of the action. He advanced cautiously; and Mr. Griffith, who was afterwards a lieutenant in a company of spies, in Col. Johnson's regiment from Kentucky, advanced to meet him, intending to kill him for his perfidy. But the boy declared, that it was the only way he had to save his life, and appeared sorry that he had been obliged to act in that manner. He then made known his business; the Indians proposed to spare the lives of our men, provided they would surrender. The proposal being made known to the surviving soldiers, they unanimously determined to reject it. The boy returned with this answer to the Indians; but in a short time he came back and entreated Mr. Griffith to use his influence with Capt. Heald, to make him surrender, as the Indians were very numerous. The captain, his lady, and Mr. Griffith, were all wounded. He at last consented to surrender; and the troops having laid down their arms, the Indians advanced to receive them; and notwithstanding their promises, they now perfidiously tomahawked three or four of the men. One Indian with the fury of a demon in his countenance, advanced to Mrs. Heald, with his tomahawk drawn. She had been accustomed to danger; and knowing the temper of the Indians, with great presence of mind, she looked him in the face, and smiling, said, "Surely you would not kill a squaw." His arm fell nerveless; the conciliating smile of113
an innocent female, appealing to the magnanimity of a warrior, readied the heart of the savage, and subdued the barbarity of his soul. He immediately took the lady under his protection. -- She was the daughter of Gen. Samuel Wells, of Kentucky. The head of Capt. Wells was cut off, and his heart was cut out and eaten by the savages. The Indians having divided their prisoners, as usual in such cases, it was the fate of Capt. Heald, his lady, and Mr. Griffith, to be taken by the Ottawas on the lake beyond the mouth of the river St. Joseph. Their wounds being severe, they looked upon destruction as inevitable but Heaven often smiles when we least expect it. Griffith had observed a canoe, which was large enough to carry them; and they contrived to escape in it by night. In this frail bark they traversed the lake 200 miles to Mackinaw, where the British commander afforded them the means of returning to the United States."After the war, this fort was repaired, and again taken possession of by the American troops. Since which time, it has always been occupied by a garrison. "About twenty miles north of this fort, there is a bed of red oxide of iron, in a state of great purity, and its preparation as a pigment, may be expected to result from the influx of emigrants. Pyrites are also very common in this vicinity; yet it is a singular fact, that the bricks at Chicago, which are manufactured from the earth, taken upon the banks of the creek, burn white, like the Stourbridge fire-bricks, indicating, as I am led to conclude, an absence of iron in any of its numerous forms of combination, at least, in the usual degree." Schoolcraft.
Fort Dearborn is in latitude 41° 45' N.
Fort Edwards, is situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, in Pike county, at the foot of the rapids of the Riviere des Moines. These rapids are in the Mississippi, and take their name from being near the mouth of the Riviere des Moines. They are nine miles in length, and terminate about half a mile above the junction of the two streams. Opposite the fort the water is deep and gentle.
The fort is situated on a high rocky bluff, consisting of sandstone, which, however, but rarely appears on the surface. The
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country east, is undulating, well timbered and well watered. In the vicinity of the fort, in Pike county, native alum is found in abundance. It is somewhat darker in its colour than the manufactured, but is said to be almost equally pure. There are also a number of caves, in which salt petre is found in abundance. -- In many of them, the bottom of the cave is white, and the mineral appears in the form of waves.
Fort Massac, a small settlement of Johnson county, formerly a military post, situated on the bank of the Ohio, nine miles below the mouth of Tennessee river, and forty above its junction with the Mississippi. A fort was first built here by the French, when in possession of this country. The Indiana, who were then at war with them, laid a curious stratagem to take it, and it answered their purpose. A number of them appeared in the day time on the opposite side of the river, each of whom was covered with a bear-skin, and walked on all fours. Supposing them to be bears, a party of the French crossed the river in pursuit of them. The remainder of the troops left their quarters, and resorted to the bank of the river in front of the garrison, to observe the sport. In the mean time, a large body of warriors, who were concealed in the woods near by, came silently up behind the fort, and entered it without opposition, and very few of the French escaped the carnage. They afterwards built another fort of the same ground, and called it Massac, in memory of this disastrous event.
The latitude of Fort Massac, according to Ellicott, is 37° 15' N. It is 120 miles below the mouth of the Wabash.
Fort river, a small branch of the Kaskaskia river, emptying into it from the west, in township 11 north, in range 5, east of the 3d principal meridian. Its general course is southeast. About 12 miles above the mouth is a bluff, on which is a fort called
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Chickesaw. It was erected by the Kaskaskia Indians, and taken from them by the Kickapoos.Foun ain ferry, at Lower Alton, on the Mississippi. It is supplied with a convenient ferry boat. Travellers from the east to the northern part of Missouri, generally cross here.
Fox river, a navigable stream in the northern part of the state. It rises near Lake Michigan, passes within 12 miles of the Melwakee, (which discharges itself into Lake Michigan 90 miles north of Chicago,) runs a southwest course, and empties into the Illinois on the right side, a short distance above the great bend. At the place where Fox river approaches to within twelve miles of the Melwakee, there is an Indian village, from which, fifty miles due west, is a portage to a large Winabago village, called Coscoenage, (or republic,) on Rock river. Fox river is a clear and beautiful stream, with a gentle current, uninterrupted by rapids. Near the point of its embouchure is an extensive and valuable bed of mineral coal. "The stratum appears on the banks of the river, and is said to have an extensive range to the northwest, and is only covered by a light deposit of alluvial soil of a few feet in thickness." -- Schoolcraft.
Fox river, a small stream, runs a southeast course through Crawford and Edwards counties, and falls into the Wabash on the right side.
Frankfort, a small post town, recently fixed as the permanent seat of justice of Franklin county.
French village,(Village du Cote, Fr.) a small village of St. Clair county. It is situated about seven miles southeast of St. Louis, at the foot of the Mississippi bluffs, in sections 28 and 35 of township 2 north, in range 9, west of the 3d principal meridian. The inhabitants are principally French, who preserve all their ancient manners and customs.
Gibraltar, a small post town in Madison county, on the east bank of the Mississippi, opposite to the mouth of the Missouri river. It is located on a high rocky bluff, on sections 17, 18 and 20, of township 5 north, in range 9, west of the 3d principal
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meridian. There is an ox mill at this place, a post-office, and five or six houses.Golconda, (formerly Lusk's ferry,) a small post town, and the seat of justice of Pope county. It is situated on the right bank of the Ohio river, about eighty miles above its junction with the Mississippi, and twenty below the mouth of Cumberland river. It contains about fifty houses, and is in a state of improvement. Here is a ferry across the Ohio, which affords a direct communication by roads with different parts of Kentucky and Tennessee.
Grand Kalimick river, a considerable stream in the northern part of the state. Its course is devious, forming a semicircle nearly parallel with the south limb of Lake Michigan, into which it empties in the state of Indiana. It unites with the Little Kalimick, and at some seasons forms a communication with it.
Grand Pierre creek, a small stream of Pope county, emptying into the Ohio four miles above Golconda.
Grand Prairie. -- This is by far the most extensive prairie in the state. It extends from about the base line near the third principal meridian, between the Kaskaskia and Wabash rivers, in a northeast direction; then veering to the north, between the head waters of Vermilion of the Wabash, Woman river of Tippecanoe, Iroquois and Ma-qua-pin-a-con of the Kankakee, on the north side, to near the junction of the Illinois and Kankakee rivers, leaving on the southwest the Sangamo, Michilimacinac and Vermilion river of the Illinois; thence crossing the Kankakee, bordered with small skirts of timber, passing northeast to Chicago, leaving on the west the Illinois river, and on the east the Kalimick of Lake Michigan; thence continuing north between Lake Michigan and the River des Pleines, to the northern boundary of the state, and eastwardly between the waters of the Kankakee, to within nine miles of the Cowpen trading house on St. Joseph's river. North and east of this, wood land prevails. This prairie is generally high and undulating, with a sandy soil. It is very questionable whether it will ever be thickly settled.
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Greenville, a flourishing post town, and the seat of justice of Bond county. It is situated in section 10 of township 5 north, in range 3, west of the third principal meridian, on the east fork of Shoal creek. The first house was built here in 1819. At present it contains upwards of fifty. The situation of the place is high and healthy. The surrounding country is well watered, and contains a sufficiency of timber. The soil is generally fertile. Both the town and country in the vicinity are in a state of rapid improvement.Greenville is in latitude 38° 50' N.; 18 miles southwest from Vandalia.
Hamburg, (formerly Penrod's ferry,) a small town in Union county, on the left bank of the Mississippi river, in section 11 of township 13 south, in range 3, west of the third principal meridian. Its situation is low and unhealthy. As yet this place contains but 10 or 12 houses, which are chiefly built of logs. Here is a ferry, at which the road from America to Boon's Lick crosses the Mississippi. The distance from America is 30 miles.
Hamilton, the seat of justice of Montgomery, laid out in 1821, in sections 10 and 15 of township 8 north, in range 4, west of the third principal meridian -- three quarters of a mile west of the middle fork of Shoal creek, at the edge of a small prairie, on high, firm, and commanding ground. It contains within its limits several never failing springs of excellent running water. The surrounding country is well timbered, well watered, fertile, and thickly populated. Its situation, in point of healthiness, is not exceeded by any in the state.
Hamilton is in latitude 39° 8' N.; about 30 miles northwest from Vandalia.
Harrisonville, a post town, and the seat of justice of Monroe county, situated in section 18 of township 3 south, in range 11, west of the third principal meridian. It contains 40 or 50 houses, scattered over an extensive surface, which is low and subject to inundation. The surrounding country is very fertile, and a considerable quantity of its surplus produce is shipped to the southern market. A sand-bar is forming in front of this place, which will greatly affect its commercial importance.
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The town is surrounded by a heavy growth of timber, consisting of oak, maple, elm, &c. In its vicinity are several distilleries, and saw and grist-mills. Some time since, a small quantity of native copper was found on the highlands, a short distance east of this place. A shaft was sunk in 1817; but in consequence of some untoward circumstances, was shortly after abandoned, and has not since been worked. About 5 miles east of this place there is a salt-lick, near which were found, about twenty years ago, fragments of vessels, which appeared to have been about four feet square, two or three feet sheep, and one inch thick. They were made of clay, sand and shells, were very hard, and appeared to have been used as salt kettles.Harrisonville is nearly opposite Herculaneum, in latitude 38° 20' N.; 30 miles south of St. Louis, and 85 miles southwest of Vandalia.
Henderson's river, a navigable stream in the northwestern part of the Illinois bounty tract. It rises in township 12 north, in range 1, east of the fourth principal meridian; runs a westerly course for some distance, then turns to the southwest, and empties into the Mississippi on the left side, in section 14 of township 10 north, in range 6, west of the fourth principal meridian. It is about 50 miles in length, a considerable part of which is navigable. The lands bordering on this stream are generally prairie. For some distance below its mouth, the banks of the Mississippi are very low, and subject to annual inundation.
Horse creek, a small stream of Randolph county. It rises in township 4 south, in range 9, west of the third principal meridian, and running a southerly course, empties into the Kaskaskia on the right side, in section 12 of township 5 south, in range 8, west of the third principal meridian.
Hurricane fork of Kaskaskia river, rises near the sources of the south fork of the Sangamo, and running a southerly course, empties into the Kaskaskia on the right side, twelve miles below Vandalia. The banks of this stream are mostly well timbered, but in many places subject to inundation. It not unfrequently happens, that a rain of two or three hours renders this stream impassible; its fall, however, is generally as sudden as its rise.
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Illinois bounty tract, see Military bounty tract.Illinois city, a town of St. Clair county, located in 1819, on a part of the common fields of the village of Cahokia. The lots were distributed among the inhabitants of the village, and were confirmed to them by an act of congress passed in 1820. No improvement has as yet been made on the premises. The town is laid out on the prairie, a short distance from Cahokia.
Illinois lake, an expansion of the Illinois river, commencing at Fort Clark, two hundred miles above its junction with the Mississippi, and extending in a northerly direction about twenty miles. It receives its name from the circumstance of its being wider than the river, and having scarcely any current. The name given to it by the Indians, is Pin-a-tah-wee; on account of its being frequently covered with a scum which has a greasy appearance. The water of the lake is clear, and its bottom gravelly. It abounds with fish of various kinds, such as sturgeon, buffaloe, carp, several different species of bass, pickerel, pike, perch, white-fish, &c. These fish are so abundant, that they form an important article of export. The shore of the lake in many places is sandy, the descent gradual, and unobstructed by trees, affording every facility for carrying on an extensive fishery.
Independence, a town in Bond county, situated on a bluff, one hundred and sixty yards from the right bank of the Kaskaskia river, on the northwest quarter of section 19 of township 4 north, in range 1, west of the third principal meridian. The situation of this place is very unhealthy, being surrounded by a number of stagnant ponds and marshes. The town is laid out on a very extensive scale, but no improvements have as yet been made on the ground. It only exists on paper, and constitutes a part of the speculating medium of the state. It was laid out during the time of the town-making mania, and a few of the lots were sold to those who were either ignorant of their true situation, or who expected to sell them to other persons at a large profit.
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Iroquois river, see Canawaga river.Johnsonsport, nearly opposite the mouth of the Missouri, in Madison county, contains a large ware house, formerly owned by Col. Johnson, and two or three dwelling houses. At present it is merely a stopping place for the boats bound to the northern part of this state.
Jonesborough, a flourishing post town, and the seat of justice of Union county, incorporated in 1821, under the government of five trustees. The limits of the incorporation include the whole of section 30, of township 12 south, in range 1, west of the third principal meridian. It is situated on one of the branches of Clear creek, and contains about 40 or 50 houses. A great proportion of the inhabitants are Germans who, by their industry, have contributed much to the improvement of the settlement. -- They chiefly belong to the religious sect called Dunkards.
Jonesborough is 28 miles north of the town of America, from which a post road has been established, by an act of congress. -- It is in latitude 37° 25' north, 25 miles south of Brownsville, 18 east of the Mississippi, and 102 nearly due south of Vandalia.
Jortue river, a considerable stream in the northeastern part of the state, running a serpentine course for a considerable distance east, and emptying into the Wabash between Vincennes and Fort Harrison.
(I have noticed this stream on the authority of several authors, although it is not mentioned in the survey of the boundary line between Illinois and Indiana, which it must cross, if the above description is at all correct.)
Kankakee river, see Theakiki.
Kaskaskia, an incorporated post town, and the seat of justice of Randolph county, and formerly the capital of the state. It is situated on the right bank of the river of the same name, seven miles above ifs junction with the Mississippi, from which it is about three miles east. It is near the southern extremity of the American bottom. The first settlement made here was by the French of Canada, shortly after the visit of La Salle in 1683; and so long as the French continued in possession of the Illinois
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country, Kaskaskia was its capital, and was flourshing and populous. When Charlevoix visited it, in 1721 it contained a Jesuit college, the ruins of which only remain. In 1763, this place, as well as the country east of the Mississippi, was ceded by France to Great Britain. In 1766, it contained about 100 families, which number it retained until the revolutionary war. In 1778, the fort situated on the east side of the Kaskaskia river, was taken by Col. afterwards Gen. George Rogers Clarke. -- After that time, and until within a few years, this town continued gradually to decline; owing chiefly to the ordinance of 1787, which prohibited slavery and involuntary servitude, in what was then denominated the northwestern territory. The slave holders were disposed to preserve this species of property, and in order to do it effectually, they abandoned their ancient habitations, and joined their friends in the new dominions of Spain, on the west side of the Mississippi.At present this place contains upwards of 150 houses. They are scattered over an extensive plain; and the greatest proportion are built of wood, in the French style. Many of them have fine gardens in front and rear, which give them a rural appearance. Here is a Catholic church, a court house and jail, and a land-office for the sale of public lands in this district. A bridge is about to be erected across the Kaskaskia river, under the authority of an act of the legislature. This will be of immense advantage to the town and surrounding country. On the east side of the river, directly opposite the town, the bluffs approach the river, and continue parallel with it to its junction with the Mississippi, when they follow the course of that stream in a southerly direction, and terminate thirty-five miles above the mouth of the Ohio, forming the southern boundary of the highlands on the Mississippi. From town to the junction of the Kaskaskia with the Mississippi, there is a body of land, called " the Point," which is low., and subject to inundation, but well timbered. It abounds in wild horses, numbers of which are annually caught.
By an act of congress, passed in 1788, a large tract of land was granted to the different French villages on the east side of the Mississippi, and a separate tract to the inhabitants of Kaskaskia,
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to be used as a common. It is situated on the Mississippi and contains twenty thousand acres. It is under the direction of the trustees of the town, in conformity with the special acts of the legislature.Kaskaskia is in latitude 37° 57' north, 3 miles east of the Mississippi river, 60 miles south-southeast of St. Louis, and 85 South-southwest of Vandalia.
Kaskuskia reservation, a tract of land containing about 700 acres, situated on Big Muddy river, in township 9 south, in range 3, west of the third principal meridian. This is all that at present belongs to the Kaskaskia Indians, who, but a few years ago possessed nearly the whole state of Illinois. Should the land become valuable, it is not probable that they will continue to keep possession even of this small tract.
Kaskaskia river, a large stream, rising in the northeastern part of the state, near the head waters of the Embarras and Little Wabash rivers, and running in a southwestern direction through the state, empties into the Mississippi on the left side, in sections 14 and 15, of township 9 south, in range 7 west of the third principal meridian, about 100 miles above the mouth of the Ohio. It is upwards of 300 miles in length, and receives numerous tributaries. The most considerable of these are Lost, Crooked, Elkhorn and Plumb creeks from the east; the West fork, Turkey, Blackbird and Meahkaninon creeks, Fort River, Hurricane fork, Shoal, Sugar, Silver, Richland and Horse creeks, from the west. This river is navigable in high water to Vandalia, 150 miles from its mouth. Its banks, and those of its tributaries, are generally fertile, and contain some of the richest and most flourishing settlements in the state. The country is generally undulating, and is well adapted to the cultivation of corn, wheat, rye, oats and tobacco. Cotton is not a sure crop, on account of the early frosts. With care and attention, a sufficient quantity is raised for home consumption, and it may in time become an article of export. The Kaskaskia is about 150 yards wide at its mouth. The left bank is high and affords a fine situation for a town, but in many places the banks of this
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stream are low, and subject to inundation, which is a fruitful source of disease.Keys' settlement, is situated in Sangamon county. It is 68 miles north of Edwardsville, on the main road between that place and Fort Clark.
Kickapoo, or Redbud creek, a small stream of Pike county, running a south and southeast course, and emptying into the Illinois river on the right side, two miles below Fort Clark. On the banks of this stream is an extensive bed of coal, which furnished fuel to the garrison and the inhabitants of Peoria. The stratum is about 12 or 14 feet below the surface, and is overlaid by slate, limestone and sandstone. There are also several valuable mill-scats on this stream.
Kincaid creek, a trifling branch of Big Muddy river.
L'Aiglee creek, a small stream of Monroe county, running a northeast course, then bending to the southwest, and emptying into the Mississippi on the left side, in section 7, of township 3 south, in range 11, west of the 3d principal meridian, about one mile above Harrisonville.
Lake Peoria, see Illinois lake.
La Page river, see Riviere du Page.
Lawrenceville, the county seat of Lawrence, situated on the west bank of Embarras river, about ten miles west of Vingcennes, on the direct road to Vandalia, in the centre of a fertile and thickly settled country. The Embarras is navigable to this place. It is in latitude 38° 40' north; 77 miles east-south-east of Vandalia.
Lebanon, a flourishing post town of St. Clair coutny, situated on the west bank of Silver creek, in section 24 of township 2 north, in range 7, west of the 3d principle meridian -- about 20 miles east of St. Louis, on the direct road from Vincennes to that place. The town is located on the ridge of a small prairie; the streets cross each other at right angles, and are from 60 to 75 feet wide. This place, although as yet small, promises to
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become a considerable inland town. The situation is very pleasant and healthy, and has many local advantages. There are a number of mills of different descriptions in the vicinity, and the Country generally is rapidly increasing in population.Lick creek, a small stream emptying into the Kaskaskia river on the left side, a short distance above the mouth of Sugar creek. It heads in the Grand Prairie, and receives its name from the number of salt licks on its hanks. The lands on this stream are generally well timbered: the soil is what is called by the surveyors, second rate.
Little Beaucoup creek, a small branch of Big Beaucoup, running through Randolph and Jackson counties.
Little Detroit, an Indian village, situated on the east bank of Lake Peoria, six miles above Fort Clark.
Little Kalimick river, a small stream of Clark county; runs a north course, and falls into Lake Michigan some distance west of Grand Kalmick. The lands between these two streams are very low; and during the prevalence of north winds, they form a junction, which affords a navigation for small boats. About 500 Ottawa Indians reside on the banks of these streams.
Little Michillimacinac, a navigable stream of Sangamon. It runs in a westerly direction through the county, and empties into the Illinois on the east side, twelve miles below Fort Clark. Its head waters interlock with those of the Kaskaskia.
Little Muddy creek, a small stream in the southern part of the state, running a southern direction, and emptying into Big Muddy on the right side, in section 13 of township 8 south, in range 1, west of the 3d principal meridian.
Little Piasau, a small creek, running a westerly course through Madison county, and emptying into the Mississippi on the left side, near Fountain ferry.
Little Prairie, is situated on the east side of Illinois river, opposite Fort Clark. It contains a fine settlement. The soil of the prairie is very fertile, being a rich vegetable mould -- having
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been under cultivation many years since, by the inhabitants of Peoria. Corn was raised here, during the last season, without the use of a plough. This prairie is washed by Bachelor's run, and is bounded on all sides by hills.Little Vermilion river, a small stream, running a southeast course through Clark county, and emptying into the Wabash below Big Vermilion river. It crosses the eastern boundary line of the state 85 miles north of Vincennes, at which place it is 100 links in width.
Little Wabash river, rises near the head waters of the Kaskaskia, and running a southern course through the counties of Clark, Fayette, Crawford, Lawrence, Wayne, Edwards, White and Gallatin, empties into the Big Wabash, a short distance above its junction with the Ohio. It is about 150 miles in length, and receives many tributaries, of which West and Skillet forks are the most considerable. The banks of this stream are in general fertile, but in many places subject to excessive inundations. This is particularly the case with the country between it and the Skillet fork. In many places it is flat and swampy, so that the water remains upon it during the whole season. In the autumn this stream is very sluggish, and has a very scanty supply of water. A company has been incorporated by the legislature of the state, called the Little Wabash navigation company, for the purpose of erecting a toll bridge across it at the town of Carmi.
Lusk's creek, a trifling stream, running a southerly course through the county of Pope, and emptying into the Ohio at Golconda.
Lusk's ferry, see Golconda.
Madison, a town in Madison county, laid out in 1820, on a high prairie, in the centre of the Marine settlement. No improvement has as yet been made on the premises.
Magopin creek, see Ma-qua-pin. Mah-waw-kee-ta, see Bear creek.
Mah-waw-kee-ta, see Bear creek.
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Mantua, a town in Hamilton county, situated on a branch of Saline creek, in sections 12 and 13 of township 6 south, in range 7, east of the 3d principal meridian.
Ma-qua-pin creek, a small stream, running a westerly course through Greene county, and emptying into the Illinois on the left side, twenty-six miles above its junction with the Mississippi. It received its name from certain roots, so called, found on the banks, which if eaten raw, are rank poison; but boiled for five or six days or longer, lose their noxious qualities.
Marais Casu, an inconsiderable stream in the northern part of the state. It runs a westerly course, and empties into the Mississippi, 20 miles above the mouth of Rock river, nearly opposite the mouth of Swan river, at which place is an Indian village.
Marais de Pronlx, a considerable stream, running a southeasterly course through the northern part of the state, and emptying into the Illinois on the right side, near the northeastern boundary of the military tract. In wet seasons, there is a communication formed between this stream and Rock river, which is navigable for boats of considerable burthen.
Marine settlement, a very flourishing settlement of Madison county. It is situated on a beautiful prairie, near a branch of Silver creek, in township 4 north, in range 6, west of the third principal meridian. The settlement was commenced in 1819, by Capts. Blakeman and Allen, and is now one of the most flourishing in the state. It is healthy and well watered; the lands are gently undulating, and the soil very fertile. (See a report of the Illinois agricultural society, in the description of Madison county.) Marine settlement is about 12 miles east of Edwardsville, on the mail route between St. Louis and Vandalia.
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Mary's river, a stream of Randolph county, running in a southwest direction about 20 or 30 miles, and emptying into the Mississippi. 85 miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and six below the Kaskaskia in township 7 south, in range 6, west of the 3d principal meridian. It has several tributaries.Muscontin river, a stream of the northern part of the state, running in an eastern course, and emptying into the W abash on the west side between Vincennes and Fort Marrison.
Manvaise Terre creek, (called by traders, Negro Creek,) a beautiful stream of Greene county, running a west course, and emptying into the Illinois on the left side, 80 miles above its junction with the Mississippi, and three miles below McKee's creek, opposite section 3 of township 4 south, in range 2, west of the 4th principal meridian. At present, it is only navigable for a short distance, owing to the quantity of timber with which it is obstructed. The banks of this stream are generally fertile. About 20 miles above its mouth is Diamond Grove, which has already become a considerable settlement. There is also another within a mile of the Illinois. The beautiful prairie which is called the Mauvaise terre extends for some distance on both sides of the creek. It is several feet above high water mark, and has been considered an eligible situation for a town. The only objection to it is the ponds under the bluff. The French, who first visited this country, supposed from its appearance, that the soil was poor, and as this was uncommon on this river, they gave it, as they thought, an appropriate name. The Americans generally call it "Yellow Banks." The soil is fertile, and this prairie and the surrounding country, in every other respect, is desirable for settlers. Nothing can exceed its beautiful appearance in the spring.
Meahkaninon, a creek of Bond county, emptying into the Kaskaskia river, on the right side above Fort River.
Melwakee river, runs in a northern direction through the northeastern part of the state, and empties into Lake Michigan, in lat. 43° N. Father Hennepin calls it Melleoki, and observes that Maskontins and Outtouagamies resided on its banks.
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McDonald's creek, a small stream in the southern part of Pike county. It heads in township 3 south, in range 6, west of the fourth principal meridian, and running in a southerly direction, empties into Chenail Ecarte, in section 29, of township 4 south, in range, 7 west of the fourth principal meridian. The lands at the mouth of this stream are reported, by the surveyors, as first rate.McDonald creek, a small stream of Clark county, rises in the state of Indiana, and running an east-northeast course, empties into Canawaga, or Iroquois river. At crosses the eastern boundary line of Illinois, 130 miles north of Vincennes. The lands on the banks of this stream are high and undulating.
McKee's creek, a considerable stream of Pike county. It rises in township 1 south, in range 7, west of the fourth principal meridian, and running an east and southeast course, empties into the Illinois river, ninety miles above its junction with the Mississippi, in section 26, of township 3 south, in range 2 west, of the fourth principal meridian. It is about 30 miles in length, and the lands bordering on it are generally of the first quality.
McLeansborough, the seat of justice of Hamilton county, laid out in 1821.
Michillimacinac river, see Little Michillimacinac.
Military Bounty Tract. Having given a general description of the lands in this tract under the head of Pike county, I shall here present extracts of the several laws of the state, with regard to the recording of deeds, and the payment of taxes.
Extract from an act of the Legislature of Illinois, entitled "An act establishing the Recorder's Office, and for other purposes," passed February 19, 1819.
That all deeds to be recorded in pursuance of this act, whereby any state of inheritance in fee simple shall hereafter be limited to the grantor, and his heirs; the words, grant, bargain, sellshall be adjudged an express covenant to the grantee, his heirs
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and assigns, to wit: That the grantor was seised of an indefeasible estate, in fee simple, freed from incumbrances, done or suffered from the grantor, except the rents and services, that may be reserved; as also for quiet enjoyment against the grantor, his heirs and assigns, unless limited by express words contained in such deed; and that the grantee, his heirs, executors and administrators, and assigns, may, in any action, assign breaches, as if such covenants were expressly inserted: Provided always That this law shall not extend to leases at rack rent, or to leases not exceeding one and twenty years, where the actual possession goes with the lease.All deeds and conveyances, which shall be made and executed of, or concerning any lands, tenements, or hereditaments, within this state, or whereby the same may in any way be effected in law or equity, (if such deeds and conveyances shall be made in this state) shall be acknowledged by one of the grantors, proved by one or more of the subscribing witnesses to such deed or conveyance, before one of the justices of the supreme court, or before some county commissioner, of the county where the deed or conveyance was executed, or before some justice of the peace of such county. But if such deed or conveyance shall be made and executed without this state, then the same shall be acknowledged by the grantor, or proved by one of the subscribing witnesses, before some judge of a superior court of the state, mayor or other chief magistrate of the city, or before the clerk of the county, or other court of the county, where such deeds or conveyances shall be made and executed, and certified under the common or public seal of such city or county. And all such deeds and conveyances, whether executed within or without the state, shall be recorded in the recorder's office of the county where such lands, tenements or hereditaments are lying, and being within 12 months after the execution of such deeds and conveyances; and every such deed or conveyance, that shall at any time after the publication hereof, be, made and executed, and which shall not be proved and recorded as aforesaid, shall be adjudged fraudulent and void against any subsequent purchaser or mortgagee, for valuable consideration, unless such deed or conveyance be recorded as aforesaid, before the proving and
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recording of the deed of conveyance, under which such subsequent purchaser or mortgagee shall claim.When the grantors and witnesses of any deed or conveyance, are deceased or cannot be had, it shall and may be lawful to and for the justices of the supreme court, or county commissioners, or any justice of the peace, to take the examination of any witness or witnesses on oath or affirmation, to prove the hand writing of such deceased witness or witnesses; or where such proof cannot be had, then to prove the hand writing of the grantor or grantors, which shall be certified by the judge or justice, before whom such proof shall be made; and such deed or conveyance being so proved, shall be recorded as is usual in other cases, directed above by this law.
Every recorder shall keep a fair book, in which he shall immediately make an entry of every deed or writing brought into his office to be recorded, mentioning therein the date, the parties and the place, where the lands, tenements, or hereditaments granted or conveyed by the said deed or writing, are situated, dating the same entry on the day in which such deed or writing was brought into his office; and shall record all such deeds and writings, in regular succession, according to their priority of time in being brought in said office; and shall also immediately give a receipt to the person bringing such deed or writing to be recorded, bearing date on the same day with the entry, and containing the abstract aforesaid; for which entry and receipt he shall take no fee or reward whatever. And if any recorder shall record any deed or writing before another first brought into his office to be recorded, or in any other manner than is herein directed, or shall neglect or refuse to make such entry, or give receipt as is herein before directed, or shall directly or indirectly take or receive any fee or reward, he shall forfeit and pay for every such offence, a sum not exceeding three hundred, nor less than one hundred dollars; one half to the use of the state, and the other half to him or them, that shall sue for the same; to be recovered in any court of record, by action of debt, bill or plaint, wherein no essoin, protection, or wager of law, or more than one imparlance shall be granted.
When any husband and wife shall hereafter be inclined to dispose of, and convey the estate of the wife, or her right of, in, or
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to any lands, tenements or hereditaments whatsoever, it shall and may be lawful to and for the said husband and wife, the wife not being less than eighteen years of age, to make, seal, deliver and execute any grant, bargain and sale, lease, release, feoffment, deed, conveyance or assurance in the law whatsoever, for the lands, tenements and hereditaments, intended to be by them passed and conveyed; and after such execution to appear before one of the justices of the supreme court, or county commissioner, or justices of the peace, and to acknowledge the said deed or conveyance, which justice of the supreme court, county commissioner, or justice of the peace, shall, and he is hereby authorized and required to take such acknowledgment, in doing whereof, he shall examine the wife separate and apart from her husband, and shall read and otherwise make known the full contents of such deed or conveyance to the said wife: and if upon such separate examination, she shall declare that she did voluntarily, and of her own free will and accord, seal, and as her act and deed, deliver the said deed or conveyance without any compulsion or coercion of her said husband, every such deed or conveyance shall be, and the same is hereby declared to be good and valid in law, to all intents and purposes, as if the said wife had been sole, and not covert at the time of such sealing and delivery , any law, usage or custom to the contrary in any wise notwithstanding: Provided, That the judge or justice taking such acknowledgment shall, under his hand and seal, certify the same upon the back of such deed or conveyance.Extract from an act entitled "An act regulating the fees of the several officers and persons therein named," passed March 20, 1819.
Recording deeds, mortgages, and all other instruments of writing, per one hundred words, $00 18
For certificate of any writing recorded, 00 50
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Extract of a law of Congress, entitled "An act to enable the people of the Illinois territory, to form a constitution and state government, and for the admission of such state into the Union on an equal footing with the original states," passed April 18, 1818.
"Provided always, That the four foregoing propositions, herein offered, are on the conditions that the convention of the said state shall provide by an ordinance, irrevocable without the consent of the United States, that every and each tract of land sold by the United States, from and after the first day of January, one thousand eight hundred and nineteen, shall remain exempt from any tax laid by order, or under any authority of the state, whether for state, county or township, or any other purpose whatever, for the term of five years from and after the day of sale: And further, That the bounty lands granted, or hereafter to be granted, for military services during the late war, shall, while they continue to be held by the patentees or their heirs, remain exempt as aforesaid from all taxes, for the term of three years from and after the date of the patents respectively; and that all the lands belonging to the citizens of the United States, residing without the said state, shall never be taxed higher than lands belonging to persons residing therein.
"Therefore, this convention, on behalf of and by the authority of the people of the state, do further ordain and declare, that every and each tract of land sold by the United States, from and after the first day of January, 1819, shall remain exempt from any tax laid by order or under any authority of the state, whether for state, county or township, or any purpose whatever, for the term of five years from and after the day of sale. And that the bounty lands granted or hereafter to be granted for military services during the late war, shall while they continue to be held by the patentees or their heirs, remain exempt as aforesaid, from all taxes for the term of three years from and after the date of the patents respectively; and that all the lands belonging to the
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citizens of the United States residing without the said state, shall never be taxed higher than lands belonging to persons residing therein. And this convention do further ordain and declare, that the foregoing ordinance shall not be revoked, without the consent of the United States.
Extract from a law of the state of Illinois, entitled "An act providing for the valuation of lands and other properly, and laying a tax thereon," passed March 27, 1819.
That all lands claimed by individuals, whether by deed, entry, bond for conveyance, patent, grant or otherwise, or where the same has been entered in any land-office established for the sale of lands lying within this state, for the purposes of taxation, shall be, and they are hereby divided into three classes, as follows, to wit: Lands of the first quality shall compose the first class; of the second quality, the second class; and of the third quality, the third class.
That for the purposes aforesaid, the lands aforesaid shall be, and they are hereby valued as follows, to wit: Lands of the first class, at four dollars per acre; of the second class, at three dollars per acre; of the third class, at two dollars per acre.
That each and every person claiming lands as aforesaid, shall pay, in the manner hereinafter pointed out, a tax of one half per centum per annum upon the value of his or her lands, fixed as aforesaid; and the state shall have a lien upon all and every tract of land or claim thereto, holden or claimed as aforesaid.
That all sales and other proceedings hereinafter directed, shall be good and valid, in whose name so ever the said land or claim thereto shall be listed, entered or sold, unless he, she or they, contesting the validity thereof, shall shew that the tax had actually been paid thereon; which in all cases shall be the first thing required of any one attempting to set aside any sale under this act.
That all non-residents claiming land as aforesaid, shall enter the same with the auditor of public accounts, at his office at the seat of government, on or before the first day of August next, and on or before the first day of August yearly and every year; and all such non-residents shall pay to the treasurer of this state the taxes imposed by this law, on or before the first day of October
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next, and on or before the first day of October yearly and every year; and it shall be the duty of every such non resident, at the time he enters his lands with the auditor as aforsaid, either by himself or agent, to present to the auditor a list of his lands, describing the quality thereof, and the class to which each tract belongs, and the county in which each tract of land is situated; which list shall be accompanied with an affidavit of such non-resident or his agent, wherein it shall be stated, that such list contains a true description of the lands therein described, to the best of the affiant's knowledge and belief.That if any non-resident shall fail, neglect or refuse to enter with the auditor his lands as aforesaid, or if any such non-resident shall fail, neglect or refuse to pay the taxes to the treasurer as aforesaid, each and every non-resident so failing, neglecting or refusing, shall pay three times the amount of the taxes by this law imposed as aforesaid, and the lands of such delinquent shall be rated in the first class; and it shall be the duty of the auditor to transmit a list of lands not entered by non-residents, together with a list of lands entered where the tax has not been levied thereon conformably to the directions of this act, to the sheriff of the county wherein the seat of government is situated, as soon as may be; whereupon the said sheriff shall advertise the said lands as listed for sale, in some public newspaper printed at the seat of government of the state, and if there shall be no such newspaper printed at the seat of government, then in the paper printed nearest thereto, as many as five weeks successively, giving notice of the day of sale; and shall accordingly, continuing the sale from day to day, if necessary, sell the whole, or so much of each tract as will pay the tax, the sheriff's fees, and the costs of advertising; which sale shall be at the door of the house where court is or may be usually held for the county.
That if any tract of land, of either residents or non-residents, will not, when exposed to sale as aforesaid, sell for the taxes and costs due thereon, it shall be struck off to the state, which shall he considered the purchaser thereof. And in all cases of nonresident's lands, the sheriff who sells the same shall return to the auditor a list of the sales, specifying the quantity of each that has been sold, the price it sold for, and the purchaser's name to whom it was sold. And it shall moreover be the duty
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of the said sheriff, to give to each purchaser a certificate of the sale to him, which shall vest the title, right, claim or interest of whatever description, of all and every person or persons whomsoever, in him completely and perfectly, unless the property sold shall be redeemed in manner hereinafter pointed out.That all residents shall be allowed two years from and after the day of sale, to redeem their property sold for taxes, by paying the price the same sold for, with one hundred per centum thereon, to the clerk of the county commissioner's court. The non-residents may redeem their lands by paying the same rate to the auditor of public accounts, within two years from the day of sale; which money the said clerks and auditor shall pay to the respective purchasers, their agents or attornies, whenever required, and of the receipt of which they shall keep a record in their respective offices, which at all times shall be sufficient to vacate the sales aforesaid. Provided always, That where any property, sold for taxes by virtue of this act, shall belong to heirs, any one of whom is not of lawful age, the same lands may be redeemed as aforesaid, at any time within one year after the youngest heir becomes of age.
That the auditor of public accounts be, and he is hereby directed to postpone the further collection of the tax which may be due upon the lands owned by non-residents for the year eighteen hundred and eighteen, until the first day of October next: Provided, That nothing in this section shall prevent the auditor from certifying to the treasurer the amount of tax remaining due on any tract of land, when required by the owner.
That all non-residents who shall, by themselves or agents, pay into the treasury of the state the full amount of single tax due for the year eighteen hundred and eighteen, and for every previous year for which tax may remain due, on or before the first day of October next, shall be exempt from the penalties of the territorial laws, laying a triple tax for a failure to list their lands with the auditor of public accounts.
That each and every non-resident owning lands within this state, who shall fail to pay the tax which may remain due and unpaid, for the year eighteen hundred and eighteen, as well as any previous year, on or before the first day of October next, shall be subject to pay triple the amount of the tax for the year
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eighteen hundred and eighteen; and the auditor is required to proceed against such delinquent, agreeably to the provisions of this art.That all lands lying within the military tract set apart by the United States for the bounty lands, upon which a triple tax has been paid, except such as have been advertised and sold fur the tax due thereon, shall be allowed a credit on their tax list for the following years, for the sum which may have been paid over a single tax; and the auditor is authorised to credit all such lands on his books accordingly.
That all persons who may hereafter become the owners of any lands lying within the military bounty tract, shall be allowed nine months from the date of such purchase, to list the same with the auditor.
Extract from a law of the state of Illinois, entitled "An act for the relief of certain persons, whose lands, bank stock, &c. have been sold for taxes," passed January 31, 1821.
That all persons, whether residents or non-residents of this state, whose lands or other property have been stricken off to the state, to pay the triple tax incurred by the owner or owners failing or neglecting to perform any of the requisites prescribed in the above act of the 27th of March 1819, shall be allowed until the first day of January next to redeem the same, by paying into the state treasury the amount of single tax to which the said land or other property would have been liable under the provisions of the above mentioned act, the costs which have accrued on account of such striking off to the state, and interest at the rate of six per cent per annum on said single tax and costs, from the time the said taxes should respectively have been paid, to the time of redemption. Provided however. That in all cases where any person may apply to the auditor, to redeem the land or other property that may have been sold to the state or to individuals, pursuant to the provisions of the act before mentioned, it shall be the duty of the auditor to demand of such person (and certify the same to the treasurer, as in other cases) the amount of the tax that said land or other property would have been liable to, in case the same had not been sold, before such person applying shall be permitted to redeem the same.
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That all persons, who may heretofore have redeemed their lands or other property so stricken off to the state, by paying the price the same sold for, with one hundred per centum thereon, to the clerk of the county commissioner's court, or to the auditor, and the other costs and charges, shall, after there has been deducted from the sum so by them paid, the amount of the single tax to which such land or other property was of right liable, and the costs of sale, and sheriff's fees, be entitled to (and the proper officer shall enter up) a credit for the balance then remaining with said county commissioners or auditor, on the books respectively kept for that purpose; and the sum so credited shall be considered as a deposit, and may be, applied by the owner or owners, or his or their agent, to the payment of any taxes which may already have accrued, or which may hereafter accrue upon the same, or upon any other property whatever.That in all cases where the taxes on land or other property of non-resident proprietors or owners, have been paid to the sheriff of the county wherein the same was situated such nonresident proprietor or owner shall not be required to pay the same again, but shall, upon presenting said sheriff's receipt to the auditor, be entitled to a credit on his books for the taxes so paid to the sheriff of such county, for the particular year.
That where the tax or taxes on the land or other property of non-residents have been paid in the county where the same is situated, and the same land sold to individuals, or stricken off to the state, for the triple tax incurred by such non-residents having failed or omitted to enter the same with the proper officer at the seat of government, for taxation, it shall be the duty of the auditor, knowing or being informed of any such case, forthwith to redeem the said land or other property, if the same has been sold to individuals; and if stricken off to the state, to erase the record thereof; in both cases giving the owner a receipt for the payment by him of the tax or taxes for which his said land or other property was so sold to individuals, or stricken off to the state.
That in all cases where resident or non-resident owners of land in this state have redeemed the same from sale, by paying a triple tax, sheriff's fees, and costs of advertising, to the proper
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officer, as provided by the act of the 27th March 1819, above referred to, they shall have a credit for all above the proper single tax, sheriff's fees, and rests of advertising, which may be applied by such resident or non-resident owners, or their agent, in the same manner as is permitted by the second section of this act.That all persons, whether residents or non-residents, who heretofore have redeemed, or hereafter shall redeem their lands from sales to individuals, under the provisions of the above mentioned act of 1819, shall be allowed a credit for so much of the sum paid by them to redeem their land or other property, as shall remain after deducting therefrom the amount of single tax or taxes which may or shall have accrued upon such land or other property, with interest at the rate of six per centum per annum, from the time when such taxes became due, to the time of redemption, and the costs of sale; which credit may also be applied as above permitted.
That in all cases where land or other property have been charged with, but not as yet sold for a triple tax, in consequence of the owner or owners thereof having failed, neglected or refused to comply with the requisitions of the act of the 27th of March aforesaid, such owner or owners shall be exonerated from the payment of such triple tax, by paying into the treasury of the state, any time previous to the first day of January next, the full amount of single tax or other property, together with interest thereon, at the rate of six per centum per annum, from the time when such taxes became due, to the time of their payment.
That no sale of non-residents' lands or other property, for taxes, shall take place until the first day of January next; and that the auditor of public accounts shall cause a notice, in few words, of the sale on that day, to be published in the several newspapers in this state, and in the following places, to wit: Boston, in Massachusetts; New-Haven, in Connecticut; New York in the state of New York; Rutland, in Vermont; Philadelphia, in Pennsylvania; Washington city, in the district of Columbia; and in such other places as be may deem necessary: such notice to be published six weeks in succession, at least five months before the sale; and shall further give six weeks notice of said sale, by publishing, in the paper printed at the seat of
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government, a list of all lands and bank stock liable to be thus sold, with the owners' names, and amount of the tax and costs due thereon.Milton, a town in Madison county, situated on Wood river, three miles from its mouth, and one and a half southeast of Alton. It contains 30 or 40 houses; but a large mill-pond in the centre of the town has rendered it unhealthy, and prevented its increase. In the vicinity are a number of mills and distilleries.
Mill creek, a small stream, running a south west course through the southwestern part of Pike county, and emptying into the Mississippi in section 12 of township 3 south, in range 9, west of the fourth principal meridian. Its banks are low, and abound with ponds.
Monk mound, situated on the American bottom, eight miles north-northeast from St. Louis. Its shape is that of a parallelogram, extending from north to south. On the south side there is a broad apron or step, about half way down; and from this another projection into the plain, about 15 feet wide, which was probably intended as an ascent to the mound. The circumference of the base of the mound is about 600 yards, and its height about 90 feet. The step or apron was formerly used as a kitchen garden by the monks of La Trappe settled near this, and the top was sowed with wheat. Nearly west is another mound of smaller size, and thirty others are scattered through the plain. Two also are seen on the bluffs, three miles distant. Several of them are of a conical form. There are also a great number of small elevations of earth, which rise to the height of a few feet, at regular distances from each other, and which appear to observe some order. Near them are found pieces of flint, and fragments of earthen vessels, and frequently human bones. The mound received its name from having been for some time the residence of the monks of La Trappe. "This monastery was formerly situated in the province of Perche in France, in one of the most solitary spots that could be chosen. It was founded in 1140, by Rotrou, count of Perche. This monastery had fallen into decay, and its discipline much relaxed, when reformed by the Abbe Ranee in 1664. Ranco had met with some
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misfortune which rendered life hateful to him -- some assert the sudden death of Madame Montbazon, whose favourite lover he had been. He had been a man of fashion, and possessed of some pretensions to literature: he is said to have translated the poems of Anacreon. Into this monastery, whither he came, he commenced a reform of the most savage austerity. The vow was perpetual silence; the miserable Trappist denied himself, during his existence, every comfort of life. He laid himself on a stone, and was frequently called in the dead of night to his devotions. His food was bread and water, and this but once in 24 hours. Each day he was to remove from his intended grave one spadeful of earth, in order to keep ever present to his mind that he must soon cease to be of this world." -- (Breckenridge)Some years since, a few of these miserable beings came to the United States, and having stopped a short time in Kentucky, removed to Florissant near St. Louis, and from thence to the place above described. By their industry, they here raised a sufficiency for their own support. Their number gradually increased, and at one time amounted to eighty, including boys. Upon the accession of Louis 18th to the throne of France, they returned to their native country. Nothing now remains, except the ruins of their former habitations.
Monroe, a town in Pike county, laid out in 1820. It is situated on the first high ground above the junction of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers, on the borders of a prairie about one mile in width, and within half a mile of a good steam boat landing. In the vicinity, are several good stone quarries, good timber, and many fine springs of water. Within half a mile of the town is a good mill seat. From the town to the river, there is a gradual descent. The situation of this place, near the confluence of three of the largest streams in the western country must secure to it important commercial advantages.
Monroe is situated in section 25, of township 12 south, in range 2, west of the fourth principal meridian, 30 miles northwest of St. Louis, and 10 from St. Charles.
Mound Prairie, is situated in Madison county, ten miles southeast of the junction of the Illinois with the Mississippi, and contains
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a nourishing settlement. The prairie is from four to six miles in length, surrounded by a thick growth of timber. The soil is of the best quality, and the surface is undulating, presenting the most eligible situation to the agriculturalist.Mount Carmel, a post town in Ed wards county, situated on the west side of the Wabash., nearly opposite the mouth of White river, in section 20 of township 1 south, in range 13, west of the 3d principal meridian.
Mount Joliet, a mound situated on the west bank of Riviere des Plaines, about 16 or 18 mile's above its junction with the Kankakee. It is 3 or 400 yards in length, north and south, and 2 or 300 in breadth, east and west. It is in the form of a pyramid, and is evidently the work of art. From the river, it appears nearly square. The companions of Joliet, who visited this country in 1673, gave it this name. It is about 150 miles above Fort Clark.
Mount Pleasant, a small settlement, one mile southwest of Carralton, the seat of justice in Greene county. Its inhabitants consist principally of persons from the eastern states.
Mount Vernon, a post town, and the county seat of Jefferson, situated in section 29, of township 2 south, in range 3 east of the third principal meridian. It is in latitude 38° 20' north, 40 miles south-southeast from Vanfalia.
Mowaviequa creek, (south fork of Sangamo,} a small stream running a northwesterly course, and emptying into the Sangamo river on the left side, a short distance above Brush creek. -- On an east fork of this stream, is a rock five feet in height, and twenty-four in circumference, to which the natives pay homage, by depositing on it some tobacco or paint.
Mud creek, a small stream running, a north westerly course through the counties of Washington and St. Clair, and emptying into the Kaskaskia on the left side, 40 miles above its mouth, in township 2 south, in range 6, west of the third principal meridian.
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Muddy saline, situated on the Muddy river near Brownsville, the county scat of Jackson. It is owned, and has been leased by the state to different individuals.Otter creek, a small but beautiful stream of Greene county, running in a westerly direction, and emptying into the Illinois about 18 miles above its junction with the Mississippi, in section 6, of township 7 north, in range 13, west of the third principal meridian, opposite section 23, of township 11 south, in range 2, west of the 4th principal meridian.
Otter creek, a stream of Pike county, rises in township 4 north, in range 1, east of the 4th principal meridian, and running a southeast course, empties into the Illinois, 130 miles above its mouth, in section 22, of township 3 north, in range 3, east of the fourth principal meridian. In high water it is navigable for a short distance, but is much obstructed with drift wood. On the banks of this stream, are several advantageous situations for settlement. There is a mill seat about 10 miles from its mouth. The lands in this vicinity are first rate, and contain a sufficient quantity of timber for the supply of a saw-mill. Lumber might be sent down the Illinois to St. Louis, where it generally commands a good price. Coal is found in abundance on the banks of this stream.
Oxford, a post town in Hamilton county, situated in section 22, of township 3 south, in range 5, east of the third principal meridian.
Ovid, a town in Jackson county, laid out in 1820. It is situated eight miles east of the Mississippi river, near the line which divides Jackson and Union counties. The main road leading from America and Golconda through Jonesborough and Brownsville, to Kaskaskia and St. Louis, passes through this place. It is 15 miles south of Brownsville, and about the same distance nearly north of Jonesborough. The lands in the vicinity, are of a very good quality, and mill seats are numerous within a few miles of the place.
Paddock's settlement, a small settlement, seven miles north of Edwardsville, on the main road between that place and Fort Clark.
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Palestine,a post town, and the county seat of Crawford, situated three miles west of the Wabash river, in sections 33 and 34 township 7 north, in range 11, west of the second principal meridian, 25 miles north of Vincennes. Here is the register's and receiver's office for the land district of Palestine.This town is in latitude 38° 58' north, 82 miles nearly due east from Vandalia.
Palmyra, a post town, and formerly the county seat of Edwards. It is situated on the west side of the Wabash, in section 31, of township 1 south, in range 12, west of the 2d principal meridian, 20 miles southwest of Vincennes. It is considered very unhealthy, and on this account the county seat was removed to Albion.
Peoria, a small settlement in Pike county, situated on the west bank of the Illinois river, about 200 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. "The old village of Peoria was situated about one mile and a half above the lower extremity or outlet of the Peoria lake. This village had been inhabited by the French previous to the recollection of any of the present generation. About the year 1778 or 1779, the first house was built in what was then called LaVille de Maillet, afterwards the new village of Peoria, and which has recently been known by the name of Fort Clark, situated about one mile and a half below the old village, immediately at the lower point or outlet of the lake. The situation being preferred in consequence of the water being better, and its being thought more healthy, the inhabitants gradually deserted the old village, and by the year 1796 or 1797, had entirely abandoned it, and removed to the new village.
The inhabitants of Peoria consisted generally of Indian traders, hunters and voyageurs, and had long formed a link of connection between the French residing on the waters of the greatlakes, and the Mississippi river. From that happy facility of adapting themselves to their situation and associates, for which the French are so remarkable, the inhabitants of Peoria lived generally in harmony with their savage neighbours. It appears, however, that about the year 1781, they were induced to abandon the village, from the apprehension of Indian hostility; but soon after the peace of 1783, they again returned, and
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continued to reside there until the autumn of 1812, when they were forcibly removed from it, and the place destroyed by a Captain Craig, of the Illinois militia, on the ground, as it was said, that his company of militia were fired on in the night, while at anchor in their boats before the village, by Indians, with whom the inhabitants were suspected by Craig to be too intimate and friendly."In September, 1813, General Howard marched, with about 1400 men, from Portage des Sioux, for Peoria. The regulars, who manned the boats, arrived, and commenced building a block-house, which they named Fort Clark, in honour of Gen. George Rogers Clark. General Howard, with his mounted rangers, ascended the Mississippi as high as Two Rivers, and then crossed over to the Illinois. By this judicious plan, the whole frontier was swept of the enemy, who was continually harassing them.
On the 29th of September, the general arrived at Fort Clark. The Indians had attacked it two days before; but Lieut. Col. Nicholas, who commanded, gave them so warm a reception that they soon retired. It was concluded that they had gone to Gomo's town, about thirty miles distant. The general immediately made arrangements, and marched the next morning to attack it. When he arrived, he found the enemy had taken water and ascended the Illinois. He burnt the village, and two others, and remained in the vicinity for two nights. He then marched back to Peoria, to assist the regulars in building Fort Clark, which had been commenced and christened previous to his arrival.
With considerable labour, they cut and hauled the necessary timber across the lake, and the fort was in a complete state of defence in twelve days. While they were engaged about the fort, Majors Christy and Boone were detached on separate commands. Maj. C. was ordered to ascend the river, in two
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armed boats, to the foot of the rapids, (about 80 miles) to ascertain if the Indians had embodied, or formed any new establishments in that quarter. Maj. Boone was sent over in the direction of Rock river, to collect every necessary information concerning their traces, &c. Both these officers returned in five or six days, and reported that the enemy had fled at all points.Soon after this the weather became cold, and as no provision had been made for a winter campaign, Gen. Howard determined on returning; and accordingly took up his line of march on the 15th of October leaving a small garrison in the fort.
About the termination of the war, Fort Clark was abandoned by the Americans; and a short time afterwards, it was burnt by the Indians, as they assert, through the instigation of the traders. A settlement has been recommenced near its ruins.
The situation of this place is beautiful beyond description. From the mouth of the Kickapoo or Redbud creek, which empties into the Illinois two miles below the old fort, the alluvion is a prairie, which stretches itself along the river in a northwesterly direction three or four miles. The shore is chiefly made up of rounded pebbles, and is filled with springs of the finest water. The first bank, which is from six to twelve feet above high water mark, extends west about a quarter of a mile from the river, gradually ascending; when it rises five or six feet to the second bank. This extends nearly on a level to the bluffs, which are from 60 to 100 feet in height. These bluffs consist of rounded pebbles overlaying strata of limestone and sandstone, rounded at the top, and corresponding in their course with the meanders of the river and lake. The ascent, although steep, is not perpendicular. On the bluffs the surface again becomes level, and is beautifully interspersed with prairie and woodland.
From the bluffs the prospect is uncommonly fine. Looking towards the east, you first behold an extensive prairie, which in spring and summer is covered with grass, with whose green the brilliant hues of a thousand flowers form the most lively contrast. Beyond this, the lake, clear and calm, may be seen emptying itself into, or by its contraction forming the river, whose meanders, only hid from the view by the beautiful groves of timber which here and there arise, can be traced to the utmost extent of vision.
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From the preceding description, it may be inferred that this section of country is not very rich in minerals. Coal, however, is abundant on the banks of Kickapoo creek, about one mile above its mouth. It was first discovered by the soldiers stationed at the fort, and being of a good quality, was used by them for fuel. It is found 12 or 14 feet below the surface; is overlaid by slate, limestone and sandstone, and contains vegetable remains.Steatite is found on the banks of Lake Peoria, a few miles above the fort, and is wrought by the natives into pipes and other utensils. It is of a dark green colour, and hardens on exposure.
It is probable that copper exists in this vicinity; for a grant made by the king of France to M. Renault, at the old village of Peoria, embraces a copper mine. The Indians frequently exhibit specimens of copper to the traders, but are unwilling to give their locality. Those which I have seen are native, in the form of rounded malleable masses.
The climate of this place is much influenced by its peculiar situation. There is generally a fine current of air sweeping through the valley of the river, either from the north or south. -- South winds, which are by far the most common, are generally pleasant. Winds from the north and northwest, generally bring cold weather, and those from the east and northeast, are presages of storms.
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The diseases which prevail here, are such as are found in all newly settled countries. A few cases of intermittent and remittent fever have occurred, occasioned, probably, by heat succeeding to heavy rains, which inundated the alluvion on the opposite side of the river.The country in the vicinity of Fort Clark, presents many inducements to emigrants. On the west side, the valleys of the Illinois and Spoon rivers, and the tract of country forming the table land between them, are celebrated for their beauty and fertility, and are calculated to support a very dense population. -- On the east side, directly on the bank of the river, is a large growth of timber, consisting principally of oak, hickory, walnut, pecan, maple, &c. which extends east about half a mile. Proceeding still farther east, we reach a prairie, upon which is the Bachelor's Run settlement. The soil here is a rich loam, about 10 or 12 feet deep, and of such a nature, that it requires very little labor to prepare it for the reception of seed. In a southeasterly direction from this, you reach the Sangamo country, which has already been described.
Peoria, a town of Pike county, laid out in the spring of 1820, on section 8, of township 8 north, in range 8, east of the fourth principal meridian, about half a mile south of the ruins of Fort Clark. No improvement has as yet been made, but from its local advantages, and the fertility of the surrounding country, there is no doubt but it will become a place of the first consequence.
Peoria lake, see Illinois lake.
Perryville, a post town in Fayette county, situated on the west bank of the Hurricane fork of the Kaskaskia river, in sections 5 and 6, of township 4 north, in range 1, west of the third principal meridian. It was formerly the county seat of Bond, but upon the erection of the new county of Fayette, Greenville was substituted. Commissioners were appointed to assess the damage done to Perryville, in consequence of the removal. It is a very trifling place, containing only about 12 or 15 houses.
Petersburg, a town in St. Clair county, situated on Silver
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creek, in section 24, of township 1 north, in range 7, west of the third principal meridian, about 12 miles east of Belleville.Pickamink river, see Canawaga.
Plumb creek, a small stream of Randolph county, rises in township 4 south, in range 5, west of the 3d principal meridian, and running in a southwest direction ten or twelve miles, empties into the Kaskaskia river on the left side, a short distance above Horse creek.
Pope's river, a considerable stream in the northern part of Pike county. It rises in township 14 north, in range 1, west of the 4th principal meridian, and running in a westerly direction about 30 miles, empties into the Mississippi on the left side, in section 34, of township 13 north, in range 5, west of the 4th principal meridian, A great proportion of the land on this stream is prairie.
Portage creek, a small stream in the northern part of the state. It rises about seven miles east of Lake Michigan, runs in a southerly direction, and empties into the Riviere des Plaines, on the left side, twelve miles west of Chicago.
Portland, a town in Randolph county, laid out in 1819, on sections 23 and 14, in township 7 south, in range 7 west of the 3d principal meridian, being on the east bank on the Kaskaskia river, at its junction with the Mississippi. This is perhaps the best town site on the Illinois side of the Mississippi, from the mouth of the Ohio to Alton. The situation is high and healthy. It is supplied with a number of fine springs, and the vicinity furnishes building materials and fuel in great abundance. The shore at this place is bold and rocky, and the mouth of the Kaskaskia furnishes what is very rare on the Mississippi -- a good harbor for boats at all seasons of the year. The first building was erected here in the spring of 1820, and there is now in operation an ox, saw and grist mill, which are not only useful to the inhabitants, but profitable to the enterprising proprietor. This place also contains a number of good mechanics of different kinds. A large warehouse has also been erected here.
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From the ease with which produce can be shipped to this place, and the constant intercourse which may be had between it and New-Orleans, it bids fair to become the principal depot of the country, watered by the Kaskaskia and its tributaries.Prairie du Long creek, a trifling stream of St. Clair county. It runs in a southeast direction, unites with Richland creek, and empties into the Kaskaskia, in section 30, of township 3 south, in range 7, west of the 3d principal meridian.
Prairie du Pont, a small village in St. Clair county, one mile south of Cahokia. It contains a few houses, which are generally in a state of decay. The inhabitants are chiefly French. Like the other French villages, it has a common field in the vicinity. This place was settled about the same time with Cahokia.
Prairie du Font creek, a small stream of St. Clair county, rises in a pond under the bluff of the American bottom, and running a devious course south and west, empties into the Mississippi, two miles below Cahokia.
Prairie du Rocher, an incorporated post village in Randolph county, on the American bottom, near the rocky bluff, from whence it derives its name, twelve miles northwest of Kaskaskia. It was settled by the French about the same time with the other villages on the Mississippi. Its situation is low and unhealthy, and during wet seasons is very disagreeable. The houses are generally built in the French style, and the inhabitants are, with few exceptions, poor and illiterate. The streets are very narrow and dirty. Here is a Roman Catholic chapel, which is its only public building. In the vicinity, is an extensive common, which is attached to the village, and is under the control of the trustees.
Prairie du Rocher, in 1766, contained 14 families; at present, between 30 and 40. It is about three miles east of the Mississippi, and 50 miles south of St. Louis. Few Americans have as yet disturbed the repose of the ancient inhabitants of this
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place, nor is it probable they ever will, as it possesses no advantages, and is withal very unhealthy.Rainy river, a small stream, runs a west course, and empties into the Illinois river on the left side, near the head of Lake Peoria.
Red bud creek, see Kichapoo creek.
Rejoicing creek, heads in the northeastern part of the state, and running in a southeasterly direction, empties into the Wabash, between Fort Harrison and Tippecanoe rivers, in the state of Indiana. At its mouth it is about 100 yards in width.
Richland creek, a small stream, emptying into the Sangamo river, below the south fork. Its course is about north. The country on the banks of this stream is very fertile, and is settling rapidly.
Richland creek, an inconsiderable stream of St. Clair county, runs in a southerly direction, and after uniting with Prairie du Long creek, in section 22, of township 3 south, in range 8, west of the third principal meridian, empties into the Kaskaskia river on the right side. Iron ore of a good quality has been found on the banks of this stream.
Ridge prairie, so called from the appearance of its surface. It is several miles in extent, and is bounded on all sides by fine timber. Such is the fertility of its soil, and the pleasantness of its situation that it already contains a flourishing settlement. It is situated in Madison county.
Ripley, a town in Bond county, situated on Shoal creek, a branch of the Kaskaskia river, 33 miles east of the Mississippi, in section 9 of township 5 north, in range 4, west of the third principal meridian. This place possesses few advantages, and it is not probable that it will ever become of much importance. Scarcely any improvement has as yet been made here, and had it not been staked off into squares and lots, it would never be noticed as a town. The land in the vicinity is generally fertile. The road from St. Louis to Vandalia passes through this place.
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Riviere au Feve, see Bean river.Biviere des Iroquois, see Canawaga.
Riviere des Plaines, a considerable stream in the northeastern part of the state. It rises in the low lands bordering on Lake Michigan, has a southern and southwestern course, and by its union with the Theakiki, forms the Illinois. The valley of the river, which is generally about one mile in width, is in the form of an inverted cone, terminated on both sides by regular banks, nearly parallel to each other. In ascending the river, the banks gradually decrease in height, and at the distance of thirty or forty miles up the river, they form right angles with the course of the river -- that on the right taking an easterly, and that on the west a northwesterly course.
In the bed of the Des Plaines, about forty rods above its junction with the Theakiki, there is a fossil tree, of a very considerable size. The following description of it is given by Mr. H. R. Schoolcraft, in a memoir read before the American geological society, in 1821:
"This extraordinary species of phytolites occurs, imbedded in a horizontal position, in a stratum of newer floetz sandstone, of a grey colour and close grain. There are now fifty-one feet six inches of the trunk visible. It is eighteen inches in diameter
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at the smallest end, which appears to have been violently broken off prior to the era of its mineralization. The root end is still overlaid by the rock and earth of the western bank of the river, and is two feet six inches in diameter at the point of disappearance; but circumstances will justify the conclusion, that its diameter at the concealed end cannot be less than three feet. The trunk is straight, simple, scabrous, without branches, and has the gradual longitudinal taper observed in the living specimen. It lies nearly at right angles to the course of the river, pointing towards the southeast, and extends about half the width of the stream. Notwithstanding the continual abrasion to which it is exposed by the volume of passing water, it has suffered little apparent diminution, and is still firmly imbedded in the rock, with the exception of two or three places where the portions of it have been disengaged and carried away; but no portion of what remains is elevated more than a few inches above the surface of the rock. It is owing, however, to these partial disturbances, that we are enabled to perceive the columnar formation of the trunk, its cortical layers, the bark by which it is enveloped, and the peculiar cross fracture, which unite to render the evidence of its ligneous origin so striking and complete. From these characters and appearances, little doubt can remain that it is referable to the species juglans nigra, a tree very common to the forests of the Illinois, as well as to most other parts of the immense region drained by the waters of the Mississippi. The woody structure is most obvious in the outer rind of the trunk, extending to the depth of two or three inches, and these appearances become less evident as we approximate the heart. Indeed, the traces of organic structure in the interior, particularly when viewed in the hand specimen, are almost totally obliterated and exchanged, the vegetable matter being replaced by a mixed substance, analogous in its external character to some of the silicated and impure calcareous carbonats of the region. Like those carbonats, it is of a brownish grey colour and compact texture, effervesces slightly in the nitric and muriatic acids, yields a white streak under the knife, and presents solitary points or facets of crystals resembling calc spar. All parts of the tree are penetrated by pyrites of a brass yellow colour, disseminated through the most solid and stony153
parts of the interior, filling interstices in the outer rind, or investing its capillary pores. There are also the appearance of rents or seams between the fibres of the wood, caused by its own shrinkage, which are now filled with a carbonat of lime, of a white colour, and crystallized."Riviere du Page, a considerable stream in the northeastern part of the state. It rises a few miles west of the Riviere des Plaines, and running a south course, empties into it six miles above its junction with the Theakiki. It is about 40 miles in length.
Riviere la Mine, see Crooked creek.
Rock river, a large stream in the northern part of the state, running in a westerly direction, and emptying into the Mississippi above the Illinois bounty tract, 300 miles above the mouth of the Illinois river. Opposite to the mouth of this river is Rock island, on which is a fort, garrisoned by a company of U. States troops. Rock river is a beautiful stream, and the lands on its banks are very fertile. It is navigable for 2 or 300 miles, and is connected by a short portage with the Melwakee river, about 100 miles above its junction with Lake Michigan. A short distance below its mouth, on the banks of the Mississippi, are several groups of mounds, some of which are very large. Near these is a large village, of the Sacs and Foxes, living promiscuously together. It consists of 60 lodges, being, it is said, one of the largest and most populous Indian villages on the continent.
Saline creek, a small stream of Gallatin county, rises by two heads, the one in Franklin and the other in White county, and running a southeast course, empties into the Ohio a few miles below Shawneetown. It is navigable for boats to the Saline; which is eleven miles from its mouth.
Saline creek, a considerable branch of the Sangamo, emptying into it on the right side, after running a southwest course through a fertile tract of country, and receiving a number of tributaries.
Saline fork of Little Wabash, a small stream, running a southeast course, and emptying into the Little Wabash in White county, 25 miles above its mouth.
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Salines are so numerous in this state, that it would be impossible to give a detailed enumeration of them. They exist in almost every county, and promise to become sources of wealth to the inhabitants, and of revenue to the state. The one near Shawneetown, called the Ohio saline, is at present the most valuable, (vide Gallatin county.) Near Brownsville is another of considerable value, called Muddy saline; as also on Shoal creek, in section 36 of township 6 north, in range 4, west of the third principal meridian. These are the most extensively worked. Salines have also been discovered on the main or north fork of the Sangamo -- between Little Vermilion river and Fox river of the Illinois -- on the north side of the Illinois river, about nine miles above the military bounty tract, which was once worked by the French -- and in township 11 south, in range 2, west of the fourth principal meridian.Salu, a town in Madison county, laid out in 1819. It is situated on the bluff, a mile and a half east of the Mississippi, and one mile north of Alton, in section 6 of township 5 north, in range 9, west of the third principal meridian. The road leading through the state from east to west, runs near this place, and forks so as to cross at Smetzer's, or Fountain ferry. The town is well supplied with springs, and its situation is considered healthy and advantageous.
Sandy creek, a small stream of Greene county, running a westerly course, and emptying into the Illinois above Apple creek, in section 13 of township 13 north, in range 13, west of the third principal meridian, and opposite to section 36 of township 5 south, in range 2, west of the fourth principal meridian.
Sangamo river, a large stream in the northern part of the state. It rises near the head waters of the Kaskaskia river. Vermilion of the Wabash, Woman river of Tippecanne, and Iroquois river of the Illinois, about 70 miles northwest of Fort Harrison, and running a northwesterly course, empties into the Illinois, about 130 miles above its mouth. It is about 150 miles in length, 70 of which are navigable. Its tributaries are Mowawequa or South fork. Brush, Sugar, Spring and Richland creeks from the south, and Salt creek, and several other smaller streams, from
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the north. The current of the Sangamo is brisk, and the water clear. The land bordering on it and its tributaries, are uncommonly fertile; the soil being of such a nature, that immense crops are raised with very little labour. Emigration to this section of the state has been so great, that it already contains a population of several thousands. On the head waters are several salines, which must become valuable, as the demand for salt increases.Seaton's creek, a small stream of Alexander county, running a westerly course, and emptying into the Mississippi near the southern part of township 14 south, about 35 miles above the mouth of the Ohio.
Shawneetown, a post town, and the seat of justice of Gallatin county, situated on the Ohio river, nine miles below the mouth of the Wabash, in section 6, of township 10 south, in range 10, east of the third principal meridian. The bank of the Ohio at this place has a gradual ascent, but is annually subject to inundation. On account of the peculiar situation of this town, it commands a fine view of the river for several miles above and below. It contains a bank, a printing office, from which a weekly paper is issued, a land office for the district, and about 100 dwelling houses, a great proportion of which are built of wood. The town extends along the river about half a mile, but has rather the appearance of decline. This may be owing to the inundations of the river, and the unhealthiness which they occasion. Mr. Birkbeck, in his notes on a journey in America, remarks: "This place I account as a phenomenon, evincing the pertinacious adhesion of the human animal to the spot where it once has fixed itself. As the lava of Mount Etna cannot dislodge this strange being from the cities which have been repeatedly ravaged by its eruptions, so the Ohio, by its annual overflowings, is unable to wash away the inhabitants of Shawneetown. Once a year, for a series of successive springs, it has carried away the fences from the cleared lands, till at length they have surrendered and ceased to cultivate them. Once a year, the inhabitants make their escape to higher lands, or take refuge in their upper stories, until
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the waters subside, when they recover their position on this lies desolate sand bank."Shawneetown is in latitude 37° 40' north, 110 miles southeast of Vandalia.
Shoal creek, a beautiful stream, running in a southerly direction through the counties of Bond and Washington, and emptying into the Kaskaskia, in section 6, of township 1 south, in range 4, west of the third principal meridian. It is formed by the union of the east and west fork, and is navigable for small craft a considerable distance.
Silver creek, a considerable stream, running a southerly course through the counties of Madison and St. Clair, and emptying into the Kaskaskia in section 28, of township 2 south, in range 7, west of the third principal meridian. It is about 50 miles in length, and has several small branches watering the western parts of Washington and Bond counties. On these are some of the most flourishing settlements in the state.
Smallsburg. a hamlet, containing a mill and five or six houses, situated on the west bank of the Embarras river, five miles above its mouth, and about six miles southwest of Vincennes. -- The alluvion between this place and the Wabash is heavily timbered and subject to inundation. The water is frequently from twelve to fourteen feet in depth, so that an uninterrupted boat navigation is established through the timber, from Smallsburg to the Wabash, a distance of three miles.
Smeltzer's ferry, on the Mississippi, a mile above Alton.
Snicarty sloo, see Chenail ecarte.
South fork of the Sangamo, see Mowawequa.
Spoon river, a large and beautiful stream of Pike county. It rises in the northeastern part of the Illinois bounty tract, and runs a southwest and south course, until it reaches the line between townships 5 and 6 north, in range 1, east of the 4th principal meridian; it then changes to southeast, which course it continues with little variation, until it empties into the lllinois,
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150 miles above its mouth, in section 32, of township 4 north, in range 4 east of the 4th principal meridian. This stream is navigable for some distance, but it is much obstructed by rafts of timber. At its junction with the Illinois, is a large lake, which, extending north and south, is frequently the cause of embarrassment to the emigrant, who is liable to mistake it for the channel of the river. The mouth of Spoon river, is about 30 or 40 yards wide, and may be known by its being 3 miles below a sandy bluff on the east side of the Illinois, on which are small mamelles The land on this river and its tributaries, is considered the most eligible in this section of the state, being high and undulating, well watered, and handsomely diversified with prairie and timber. -- Coal, of a very fine quality, is abundant on the banks of this stream, and will be valuable, on account of the scarcity of timber, particularly in the northern part of the military tract.Spring creek, a small stream, running a northwest course, and emptying into the Sangamo river on the left side below the south fork. On its banks are a number of flourishing settlements.
Springfield, a post town and the seat of justice of Sangamo county, laid out in 1821. It is situated on Spring creek, a branch of the Sangamo river, in township 16 north, in range 5, west of the third principal meridian. Although this place is as yet in its infancy, the circumstance of its being the centre of a fertile and thickly-settled district of country, must soon render it of considerable importance.
Springfield is in latitude 39° 50' north, 96 miles northeast of St. Louis, and 65 northwest of Vandalia.
Sterling, a town of Clark county, situated on the Wabash, in township 10 north, in range 11, west of the third principal meridian.
St. Germain, a small stream, running through the northeastern part of the state, and flowing into the Wabash between Vincennes and St. Harrison. It was discovered by the French.
Stinking creek, see Beaver creek.
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St Mary, a town in Madison county, situated on the east bank of the Mississippi, at the mouth of Wood river, and nearly opposite to the mouth of the Missouri. It is 18 miles north of St. Louis, and 22 south of the junction of the Illinois with the Mississippi. Wood river, which runs through the town, affords a good harbor for boat, and has on it several valuable grist and saw mills, and distilleries. No improvement has as yet been made in this place, and it is doubtful whether it will become other than a mere settlement. The situation is in many respects unfavorable, and on this account can never rival Alton, and the other towns above. About a mile south is a ferry across the Mississippi.St. Philip, a French village of Monroe county, now almost entirely deserted. It is situated on the American bottom, near Fort Chartres, 45 miles below Cahokia. While the French continued in possession of the territory east of the Mississippi, this was the residence of several families. Like all the other French villages, St. Philip has a large common field for the use of its inhabitants.
Sugar creek, a small stream of Fayette county, rising in the prairies, and running a southeast course about 20 miles, empties into the Kaskaskia river near the centre of township 8 north, in range 2, east of the third principal meridian. Near the mouth of this creek is a flourishing settlement. The lands on its banks are generally first rate, and handsomely diversified with prairie and timber.
Sugar creek, runs a northerly course and empties, into the Sangamo river on the left side, a short distance below the forks.
Sugar creek, a small stream, rising in township 4 north, in range 5, west of the third principal meridian, and running a southerly course through the western parts of Madison and Washington counties, empties into the Kaskaskia river, by two mouths, near the base line, in range 5, west of the third principal meridian. It is about 20 miles in length, and waters a fertile country, which is rapidly settling. Coal is found in great abundance on the banks of this stream.
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Theakiki river, a large navigable stream, rises in the northwestern part of Indiana, and interlocking with the head waters of St. Joseph of the Lakes and Tippecanoe, runs a northwesterly course through the northeastern part of Illinois. After receiving Yellow river, Iroquois river, and several other tributaries, it unites with the Des Plaines, and forms the Illinois, 30 miles above the mouth of Fox river. Navigation can be effected through the Theakiki and St. Joseph of the Lakes, when it cannot through Chicago creek and the Des Plaines. Boats of ordinary size may ascend as high as British lake, at which place is a trading house, 60 miles due south of Chicago. From this lake the river loses itself in a cranberry marsh, extending 50 miles east, and rising at the big spring, near the state line between Illinois and Indiana. To this spring it, is navigable, at all seasons of the year, for small boats. From this to the St. Joseph's is a portage of nine miles, across a sandy ridge.The Theakiki was discovered by the French at a very early period, and was one of the principal routes to the Illinois. Charlevoix, in his travels, gives the following account of it: -- "I yesterday departed from the fort on the river St. Joseph, and sailed up that river six leagues. I went ashore in the night, and walked a league and a quarter, first along the water side, and afterwards across a field, in an immense meadow, entirely covered with copses of wood, which produce a very fine effect. It is called the meadow of the buffaloe's head, because it is said that a head of that animal, of monstrous size, was once found there.
This morning I walked a league further in the meadows, having my feet almost always in the water; afterwards I met with a kind of pool or marsh, which had a communication with several others of different sizes, but the largest not a hundred paces in circuit. These are the sources of the river Theakiki, which, by a corrupted pronunciation, our Indians call Kiakiki. Theak signifies a wolf, in I do not remember what language; but this river bears that name, because the Mahingans, who are likewise called the Wolves, had formerly their refuge on its banks."
He further observes, "This river is very narrow at its source, and very crooked, but ten men would in two days make a
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straight and navigable canal, which would save a great deal of trouble, and ten or twelve leagues of way.""After this, the river by degrees takes a straighter course; but its banks are not pleasant, till at the distance of fifty leagues from its source. It is, even throughout that whole space, very narrow, and it is bordered by trees, which have their roots in the water: when any one happens to fall, it bars up the whole river, and a great deal of time is lost in clearing a passage for a canoe. All these difficulties being passed, the river, at the distance of fifty leagues from its source, forms a small lake; after which it grows considerably broader. The country becomes beautiful, consisting of unbounded meadows, where buffaloes are to be seen grazing in herds of two or three hundred."
The junction of this stream with the River des Plaines or the Illinois, is called by the Canadians the Forks. It is here a beautiful stream, while the Illinois is very shallow. From the Forks to Cowpens, on St. Joseph of the Lakes, by water, is 180 miles; by land 80.
The natives and traders still call this stream the Teaukeekee, according to the French orthography, Theakiki; of which Charlevoix has given the correct definition. But it is frequently called Kankakee, a corruption of the corruption mentioned by the same author. It is, however, proper that the aboriginal name should be preserved.
The Theakiki crosses the eastern boundary line of the state, 180 miles north of Vincennes, and 35 miles south of Lake Michigan. At this place its width is 300 links.
Town of Illinois, (formerly Jacksonville,) a post town in St. Clair county, situated on the east bank of Cahokia creek, about 400 yards from the Mississippi, directly opposite to St. Louis. It is surrounded by a fertile tract of country, but has few commercial advantages. Here are 20 or 30 houses, and upwards of 100 inhabitants. The situation is unhealthy, but in this respect has improved much within a few years. The road from Vincennes to St. Louis passes through this place, and its contiguity to the latter will always secure to it some importance.
Troy, a small town in Madison county, situated in section 10 of township 3 north, in range 7, west of the third principal meridian, seven miles southeast of Edwardsville.
Turkey creek, a small stream of Fayette county, running a southeasterly course, and emptying into the Kaskaskia river on the right side, above Blackbird creek.
Turkey hill, a flourishing settlement of St. Clair county, and one of the oldest American settlements in the state. It includes the town of Belleville, and much of the surrounding country. Many of the inhabitants are Methodists.
Vandalia, the capital of the state, and the seat of justice of Fayette county, laid out in 1813, by commissioners appointed for that purpose, under the authority of the state. It is situated on the west bank of the Kaskaskia river, in sections 8, 9, 16, and 17, of township 6 north, in range 1, west of the 3d principal meridian. The site is high and undulating, and entirely above the inundations of the river. The streets cross each other at right angles, and are 80 feet in width. The public square is a high and commanding situation, and is already ornamented with a temporary state house, and a brick bank. There are also in the town, several stores, a printing office, from which is issued a weekly paper, entitled the "Illinois Intelligencer," about 150 dwelling houses, and 700 inhabitants, among which are professional men, and mechanics of every description.
Vandalia is under the government of five trustees, who are elected annually by all the free white male inhabitants of twenty-one years and upwards, who shall have resided six months immediately preceding the election, within the limits of the following boundaries, to wit: Beginning at the southeast corner of section 16, in township 6 north, in range 1, east of the 3d principal meridian, thence north to the northeast corner of section 9, in the same township, thence west to the northwest corner of sections, in the same township, thence south 10 the southwest corner of section 17, in the same township, and thence east to the place of beginning. The trustees have the power of appointing an assessor, whose duty it shall be to value and assess all the lots, regularly laid off in the said town, and make a return of them to the trustees, having previously taken an oath before some justice of the peace, truly and impartially to perform the same; but in the valuation of said lots, the houses and other.
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Turkey creek, a small stream of Fayette county, running a southeasterly course, and emptying into the Kaskaskia river on the right side, above Blackbird creek.Turkey hill, a flourishing settlement of St. Clair county, and one of the oldest American settlements in the state. It includes the town of Belleville, and much of the surrounding country, Many of the inhabitants are Methodists.
Vandalia, the capital of the state, and the seat of justice of Fayette county, laid out in 1813, by commissioners appointed for that purpose, under the authority of the state. It is situated on the west bank of the Kaskaskia river, in sections 8, 9, 16, and 17, of township 6 north, in range 1, west of the 3d principal meridian. The site is high and undulating, and entirely above the inundations of the river. The streets cross each other at right angles, and are 80 feet in width. The public square is a high and commanding situation, and is already ornamented with a temporary state house, and a brick bank. There are also in the town, several stores, a printing office, from which is issued a weekly paper, entitled the "Illinois Intelligencer," about 150 dwelling houses, and 700 inhabitants, among which are professional men, and mechanics of every description.
Vandalia is under the government of five trustees, who are elected annually by all the free white male inhabitants of twenty-one years and upwards, who shall have resided six months immediately preceding the election, within the limits of the following boundaries, to wit: Beginning at the southeast corner of section 16, in township 6 north, in range 1, east of the 3d principal meridian, thence north to the northeast corner of section 9, in the same township, thence west to the northwest corner of section 8, in the same township, thence south 10 the southwest corner of section 17, in the same township, and thence east to the place of beginning. The trustees have the power of appointing an assessor, whose duty it shall be to value and assess all the lots, regularly laid off in the said town, and make a return of them to the trustees, having previously taken an oath before some justice of the peace, truly and impartially to perform the same; but in the valuation of said lots, the houses and other
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improvements thereon, shall not be taken into consideration; and upon the return of such list of taxable property by the assessor, the trustees shall levy a tax thereon, at a rate not exceeding three per cent per annum on the valuation of said lots, for the purpose of paying for the clearing, cleansing and repairing the streets, and such other improvements as may be deemed by them expedient and necessary.The act of the legislature appointing trustees to the town of Vandalia, of which the above is an extract, also provides, that for the purpose of enabling the said trustees to drain any ponds or stashes which may be in the neighborhood of said town, and erecting a bridge across the Kaskaskia river opposite the same, and constructing a road from said bridge across the bottom on the east side of the river to the highlands, there shall be granted to the said trustees and their successors in office, in fee simple, fifty lots in said town, to be selected by them, in conjunction with the auditor of the state, under certain provisions mentioned, These lots may be disposed of by the trustees in such manner as, in their opinion, shall be most conducive to the object for which the grant is made.
The same act also authorises the trustees to lease out any part of the prairie lying within the town tract, and any quantity of land within said tract, not exceeding six acres to any one person, nor for a longer period of time than six years, for the purpose of brick yards, mills, &c. on such terms as they may think most advantageous to the state; and the said trustees shall allow a sufficiency of timber for the purpose of fencing any lands which they may lease.
The advantages of Vandalia are by no means few or inconsiderable. Many intelligent men are still, however, of opinion that a more eligible situation might have been selected. Soon after it was located, 150 lots were sold for an average amount of $234.89 each. The highest brought $780, and the aggregate sale amounted to $35,234.76. Considering that the town was then a wilderness, and not a stick of timber missing in it, except what was necessarily removed for the purposes of surveying, this was a more favorable sale than could have been anticipated. -- Although it does not possess commercial advantages, the Kaskaskia being too low for navigation for more than nine
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months in the year, yet the fart of its being the seat of government for 20 years, must secure to it a rapid increase of population. Besides this, the fertility of the surrounding country, must also contribute much to its improvement. Here must of course be a considerable market, to which the farmers of the vicinity will send their produce. In regard to health, Vandalia may be said to differ little from the neighboring towns. Although its local situation is such as to lead to the conclusion, that it will be healthy, yet the inundated alluvion, and the ponds by which it is surrounded, bring with them their train of summer and autumnal fevers. But as this is a calamity attendant upon all newly settled countries, it can form no particular objection to tins place. Among the advantages which it possesses, are fine springs in abundance. Good Writer may be obtained in any place by digging about 20 feet. A large proportion of the inhabitants of this place and the vicinity are Germans, who emigrated in 1820. -- In general they are good citizens, and sustain the character of their countrymen, in different sections of the United States, for industry and frugality. West of this place are a number of prairies, considerable portions of which are under cultivation. On the east side of the river, is an extensive bottom, about two miles in width, heavily timbered, and subject to inundation, which sometimes renders it impassible. Beyond this, prairie predominates.Vandalia is in latitude 38° 55' north. 70 miles northeast of St. Louis, and on the mail route from Vincennes to that place.
Vermilion river of the Illinois, a considerable stream, running a westerly course through the northern part of this state, and emptying into the Illinois river on the left side, a short distance below the rapids.
Vermilion river of the Wabash, rises in township 23 north, in range 11, west of the 2d principal meridian, near the eastern boundary line of the state, within 16 or 20 miles of the Wabash. It then runs a west-southwest course, until it receives two considerable tributaries, one of which rises near the source of the Sangamo, when it changes its course to the southeast, and continues in this manner to its junction with the Wabash. For this information, I am indebted to W. S. Hamilton, Esq. who, during
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the last season, explored the country bordering on this stream He also informs me, that the country is fine, and will support a dense population. On the south fork, are valuable salines, which are worked. The water is found at the distance of 12 feet below the surface. They are as yet worked entirely by squatters; the land having been recently surveyed, and of course still in the possession of the U. States. On this account, the improvements are very inconsiderable. The lands on the banks of this stream are settling rapidly, and when brought into market, will no doubt command a high price on account of the number of salt springs. The Vermilion is navigable for some distance above its mouth. It crosses the eastern boundary line of the state, 100 miles north of Vincennes, at which place it is 300 links in width. It falls into the Wabash, near latitude 40° north. Little Vermilion empties in a short distance below.Vienna, an incorporated post town, and the seat of justice of Johnson county, situated on the waters of Cash river, in sections 5 and 6, of township 13 south, in range 3, east of the 3d principal meridian. The main road from Golconda to Kaskaskia passes through this place. It is in latitude 37° 25' north, 110 miles nearly due south of Vandalia.
Wanborough, a settlement of Edwards county, situated near Albion.
Washington, a post town in Washington county, situated on the east bank of Shoal creek, in section 12, of townships north, in range 4, west of the 3d principal meridian.
Waterloo, a town in Monroe county, laid out in 1819. It is situated about 12 miles east of the Mississippi river, on the ridge road between St. Louis and Kaskaskia, in section 25 of township 2 south, in range 10, west of the 3d principal meridian. -- So little improvement has as yet been made here, that a traveller would scarcely be able to find the town.
Wilkinsonville, formerly a military post on the Ohio, 25 miles above its mouth, commanded by General Wilkinson. It was situated oh a high bank, called Cedar bluffs. There were a few inhabitants here, but it is now deserted.
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Wind river, a small stream in the northern part of the state, runs a southwest course, and empties into Fox river on the left side.Wolf's head river, a branch of the Sangamo, emptying into it on the left side, below the forks.
Woman river of Tippecanoe, a considerable stream, rises in the northeastern part of the state, above the Vermilion of the Wabash, and running an east course, empties into Tippecanoe river, in the state of Indiana. A small pact of this stream only runs within the state of Illinois.
Wood river, a small stream of Madison county, runs a westerly course, and empties into the Mississippi, nearly opposite to the mouth of the Missouri. On this stream are many fine mill seats and flourishing settlements.
Yellow banks, on the Embarras river, in Crawford county. -- A company has been incorporated with a capital of $150,000, for the purpose of making a turnpike from this place to Vincennes, called the "Embarras turnpike company."
Yellow banks, see Mauvaise terre creek.
York, a town, situated on the Wabash, near the line between Clark and Crawford counties, in township 8 north, in range 11, west of the 2d principal meridian.
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GEOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL
VIEW,
OF THE
State of Missouri.
ARRANGED UNDER THE FOLLOWING HEADS:
SITUATION, BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT -- FACE OF THE COUNTRY -- RIVERS -- VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS -- ANIMALS -- MINERALS -- CLIMATE -- ANTIQUITIES -- LAND DISTRICTS -- GOVERNMENT -- EDUCATION -- INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS -- HISTORY.
SITUATION. BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT. The state of Missouri is situated between 36° and 40° 30' N. lat. and 11° 45' and 17° 30' W. long. It is bounded north and west by Missouri territory; east by the states of Illinois, Kentucky and Tennessee; and south by Arkansas territory. Its medium length is about 370 miles, and medium breadth about 220 miles, the area being about 60,300 square miles, or $8,592,000 square acres. The boundaries, as prescribed by the, act of congress, admitting this state into the union, are as follows: Beginning in the middle, of the Mississippi river, on the parallel of thirty-six degrees of north latitude; thence west along the said parallel of latitude to the St. Francois river; thence up and following the course of that river, in the middle of the main channel thereof, to the parallel of latitude of thirty-six degrees and thirty minutes; thence west along the same to a point where the said parallel is intersected by a meridian line passing through the middle of the mouth of the Kansas river, where the same empties into the Missouri; thence from the point aforesaid north, along the said meridian line, to the intersection of the parallel of latitude, which passes through the rapids of the river Des Moines, making the said line correspond with the Indian boundary line; thence east, from
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the point of intersection last aforesaid, along the said parallel of latitude, to the middle of the main fork of the said river Des Moines; thence down and along; the middle of the main channel of the said river Des Moines to the month of the same, where it empties into the Mississippi river; thence due east to the middle of the main channel of the Mississippi river; thence down and following the course of the Mississippi river, in the middle of the main channel thereof, to the place of beginning.FACE OF THE COUNTRY. The lands bordering on the Mississippi, Missouri, and other streams in this state, are generally like those of Illinois, low, subject to inundation, and very fertile, consisting of a stratum of alluvial soil of great depth. As you recede from the banks of the rivers, the land rises, becoming gradually and abruptly elevated, and forming what is termed "rolling land." It is handsomely diversified with prairie and wood land, and the soil, although inferior to that of the alluvion, is of a very good quality. The interior and southern part of the state is traversed in many places by ranges of flinty hills, which are totally unfit for cultivation, but which abound with minerals of various kinds.
RIVERS. The Mississippi is the eastern boundary of this state. Having already given a general description of this river, I shall at present confine my attention to the character of the lands which border it.
From the southern boundary of the state to about thirty-five miles above the mouth of the Ohio, where the limestone rock terminates abruptly, is a plain of several miles in width. "The soil is generally rich, and has the appearance of being alluvial, though there is a greater proportion of sand than is usual in the neighborhood of the rivers. It is a common idea, but very erroneous, that this is a continued swamp, or rather low land, subject to inundation. There are doubtless a great many swamps and lakes interspersed with the plains; but there are also extensive bodies of land fit for cultivation. The swamps and wet lands might be drained without any great difficulty."
Tywapety bottom, which extends along the Mississippi between the bluffs before mentioned and Cape Girardeau, is several miles in width, and is covered in many places with a heavy
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growth of trees, such as are peculiar to the most fertile alluvion. It is bounded by a ridge of high land, which, in approaching the St. Francois westward, subsides. In passing over it, we appear to be in a hilly country, possessing springs and rivulets; the soil, though generally poor and sandy, is tolerably well timbered, and not altogether unfit for cultivation,
"From Cape Girardeau to the Missouri, the country may be called elevated and uneven, but with excellent flats or bottoms, on the creeks or rivulets, of a width usually proportioned to the size of the stream. The river hills of the Mississippi, from 5 to 10 miles west, are in many places far from prepossessing. They are badly watered, have many rugged and abrupt acclivities, and considerable precipices on the river. A strange appearance is also given by the number of funnels, or sink holes, formed by the washing of the earth into fissures of the limestone rock, on which the country reposes. In other places, flint knobs present themselves, strewed with huge masses of hornstone, and affording a scanty nourishment to a few straggling black jacks, or groves of pine. But it is not to be understood, that this forms the greatest proportion of the lands; a more minute description of particular parts will prove the contrary. Even in these places, there is abundance of fine grays, affording excellent pasturage.
North of the Missouri, the country on the bank of the Mississippi is level for some distance. Standing on the Mamelles, formed by the union of the bluffs of the Mississippi and Missouri, three miles below St. Charles, and looking towards the north and east, you have a view of more than 30,000 acres of prairie, which has the appearance of an extended plain or meadow, checkered here and there with a few groves of timber. But in travelling over it, we discover many undulations in the surface -- the Marais croche meanders through it for several miles, and its banks appear as if they had formerly been the banks of either the Mississippi or Missouri rivers. This is also the case with Cut de sac, a short distance below St. Charles. In the spring, these places are covered with three or four feet of water; in the summer, they are generally exiccated. The soil of this
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tract, near the Missouri, is very rich, but towards the Mississippi is a heavy clay, which, by exposure to the sun, becomes very hard.Above this tract, the country is undulating and hilly, and continues so with little variation to the Des Moines. On the head waters of Salt River, there is a considerable proportion of good land, but the prairies are very extensive, and are not calculated for a dense population. These continue to the head waters of the Chariton, which empties into the Missouri.
The principal tributaries of the Mississippi in this state, are Des Moines, Salt, Missouri, Merrimack and St. Francois rivers.
The Missouri river rises in the Chippewan mountains, in lat. 44° 20' N. long 35° W. from Washington city. Its general course to the Mandan villages is northeast and east, and in this distance it receives several large tributaries. At the Mandan villages, it turns to the south, and continues that course for 3 or 400 miles. In this distance it receives a few unimportant tributaries from the left, and from the right, the large streams of Cannon Ball, Wetarhoo, Sarwarcarna, Chayenne, Teton and White rivers. Below the mouth of the latter, the Missouri turns to the southeast, east and south, 500 miles, to its junction with the La Platte, an immense body of water flowing from the west, and heading with the Arkansas, Lewises and Yellow Stone rivers. -- In the latter course, the Missouri has also received from the left the Jaques, Great and Little Sioux rivers. Below its junction with the Platte, the Missouri flows 200 miles southeast to the mouth of the Kanzas river, a large tributary flowing from the west. The Missouri has now gained nearly the 39th degree of north latitude, and turning a little south of east 250 miles, joins its vast volume to the Mississippi, after an entire comparative course of 1870 miles, and particular course of about 3000 miles.
One of the most remarkable features of the valley of the Missouri, is the great difference in the length and volume of the confluent streams from the right when compared with those from the left bank of the main recipient. Whilst from the right, the Missouri
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receives such vast branches as the Yellow Stone, Chayenne, Quicourre, Platte, Kanzas, Osage and Gasconade, from the left all the branches are of minor importance.
The most peculiar appearance of the Missouri, is the muddy ash-colour of its water, occasioned by the sand with which it is impregnated. This character is derived from the mountains in which it rises, and the vast plains through which it passes. To this cause also may be ascribed the formation of the numerous sand banks and islands, and the alluvions nature of the lands on the Missouri. The water is lively and soft, and the specific gravity of it about the same as that of rain or snow water. A vessel filled with the Missouri water, will, after remaining for some time undisturbed, be about one third full of sediment. The quantity of the sediment varies with the rise and fall of the river, it being much greater in the spring than in the summer or autumn. This arises from the increased volume of water; by which means the vast plains which bound the Missouri and its tributaries are inundated, and the current of the streams is rendered more impetuous. But the muddiness of the Missouri water appears to be no objection to its use; on the contrary, those inhabitants who reside on the banks of this stream, consider the water preferable to any other. Some of them put it into large earthen jars, and let it stand till the sediment has subsided. Others filtrate it through stone or sand, and others again render it clear and transparent, by putting into it a small quantity of alum, or the kernels of a peach-stone, either of which precipitate the impurities to the bottom. The greatest number, however, use the water in its impure state, and experience no bad effects from it. The Missouri water is impregnated with sulphur and nitre, and those who drink of it pretend, that it is a remedy for cutaneous diseases.
The current of the Missouri is considerably greater than that of the Mississippi, or any of the western rivers, being generally about four miles an hour. It is on this account that the bed of the river is continually changing, and shoal islands and sandbars are constantly forming. Hence it is unsafe to settle on the
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alluvions banks of this stream; for it not unfrequently happens that thousands of acres, containing houses and plantations, are swept away by the impetuosity of its current.
The floods of the Missouri usually begin early in March, and continue until the latter end of July; during which time it rises and subsides, as its different tributaries bring down their increased volume of water, it so happens that seldom more than two great rivers are high at the same period. Many of these floods are never felt in the Mississippi. The great rise of the Missouri itself from the melting of the snows, takes place about the middle of June, and begins to subside about the latter end of July. In some of the northern branches, the ice does not break up until late in the season. Mr. Brackenridge observes, that about one thousand miles up the Missouri, he saw a large cake of ice floating in the river on the last of May.
From several circumstances, it is probable that the rapidity of the current of the Missouri was occasioned by some comparatively recent convulsion. For such enormous quantities of earth as is every year brought down, would have broken and mutilated the country in an astonishing degree. "What immense quantities of earth," says a writer
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These remains, being composed of more durable substance, continue undecayed, while the rest is carried off. The strata have the appearance of different stones; the isolated and detached hills constitute the remainder."But that these effects have been recently produced, and that the character of the Missouri has been changed by some recent convulsion, are facts which might be satisfactorily proved by calculating the vast quantities of earth which are annually brought down. But the calculation would be tedious, and of little importance in a work of this kind.
Pumice, and other volcanic productions, are continually floating down the Missouri, and are deposited on the sand-bars and islands. By some, these are said to be caused by the burning coal banks on the Upper Missouri; but the proof in favour of the existence of volcanoes in the northwest is so strong, that there is little doubt but they are referable to them. Immense beds of coal are found in every part of the valleys of the Ohio and Illinois, and yet they are entirely destitute of these volcanic productions; a convincing proof that they must be produced by some other cause.
On the north side of the Missouri, after leaving the alluvion at its junction with the Mississippi, the land becomes undulating and sometimes hilly; the soil is generally fertile, although there is a tolerable proportion of second rate land.
From St. Charles to Cote sans dessein, the north bank of the Missouri, with the exception of the high craggy cliffs on Roche Percee and Bonne Femme creeks, consists of a handsome upland, gently sloping to the river, and heavily timbered with oak, hickory, ash, &c. The alluvions of the small streams are very fertile.
Cote sans dessein, two or three miles below the mouth of the Osage river, is situated on a single detached hill, about half a mile in length. North of this the land becomes hilly, and in many places sterile, and continues in this manner for some distance.
The military bounty tract is generally fertile, but in the northern part the prairies are too large to support a dense population. Coal, however, is very abundant. According to the report
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of surveyors, the military road from Grand river to the Council Bluffs, passes through a country well watered, and handsomely interspersed with prairie and woodland. It crosses the heads of the small streams, which empty into the Missouri. The land is level or gently undulating; the soil is generally fertile.On Fishing river, which empties into the Missouri, near the western boundary of the state, there is a beautiful tract of country, which is rapidly increasing in population.
On the Kanzas river, which empties into the Missouri from the southwest, extensive plains and prairies are very common, and timber is rarely found, except in the immediate vicinity of the water. Below Fort Osage, which is situated on a high and rocky bank, the country is handsomely interspersed with prairie and woodland, which continues so for some distance. Opposite to the mouth of the Chariton rivers, the banks of the Missouri become high and undulating, and as you approach the Gasconade, become elevated into hills, which are sterile, and generally destitute of timber. To compensate for this, they abound with minerals.
After leaving these hills, the country to the mouth of the Missouri is level, sometimes alluvial and at others upland; contains a sufficient quantity of timber, and is very fertile.
The principal tributaries of the Missouri in this state, are Kanzas, Fishing, Grand, Osage and Gasconade rivers.
The Kansas river rises in the plains between the Arkansas and Platte, and running a northeast course seven or eight hundred miles, unites with the Missouri, about three hundred miles above its confluence with the Mississippi. Its principal tributaries are Smoaky Hill fork, Grand Saline, Solomon's fork and Republican fork, which last appears to be the principal stream. At the confluence of the Kansas and Missouri, there is a recently formed alluvion, which is low, and subject to annual inundation. This, however, soon rises to a second bank, which extends to the hills. On the south side of the Kansas the highlands approach to within a mile and a half of the river; on the north they are several miles distant. The water of this stream
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has a disagreeable taste, and is often very muddy. Its banks are generally prairie, and the cliffs frequently consist of solid strata of gypsum."The Des Moines river (La Riviere des Moines,) forms a part of the northern boundary of the state. It rises in Pelican Lake, between the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, in lat. 44° N. near the Great Sioux of the Missouri. It runs a southeasterly course nearly parallel with the Mississippi, about five hundred miles, and empties into it about two hundred and fifty miles above the mouth of the Missouri, in lat. 40° 22' N. in its course it receives Raccoon creek. North fork, and several other large tributaries, so that the size of the Des Monies continues the same for several hundred miles.
The banks of this stream are generally well timbered; in some places low and subject to inundation, and in others high and hilly; in the latter, lead and iron ores are very abundant. Several mines of lead have been opened, and are worked by the Indians. They sell the ore to the traders, who smelt and export it to the southern and eastern markets. The Indians are so tenacious of their exclusive right of working these mines, that they will not suffer the traders even to visit them. Should the government or individuals ever attempt to work them, a large armed force will be necessary, in order to protect the frontier settlers. An Indian chief not long since observed, that the mines were an unalienable gift, from the Great Spirit, and that the whole of his tribe would rather suffer death to a man, than yield them to the whites. It is to be feared, however, that these poor deluded natives will soon be prevailed on to barter their inheritance for a song, and that the strong arm of American power will again drive them from their present possessions, to the sterile and inhospitable regions of the north and west.
At the mouth of this river, there is said to be a fine town site. Above this for some distance, the stream is narrow and shallow, and frequently bounded by low marshy land.
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The banks of the Des Moines abound with game of all kinds, and on this account are the residence of large numbers of Indians. At present, they are inhabited by the Iowas, who are neighbours to the Sacs and Foxes, residing on the west bank of the upper Mississippi.The rapids of the river Des Moines, are about nine miles in length, and they terminate half a mile above the mouth of this river. These are in the Mississippi, but take their name from the circumstance of their being at the junction of the stream which I have just described.
The river Des Moines was discovered at a very early period. It is mentioned by Charlevoix, who calls it "La Riviere des Moines, or Moingona."
VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. In respect to its vegetable productions, the state of Missouri differs little from that of Illinois. The forest trees peculiar to the one, are found in the other, with very little difference in their general localities. In the southern part of this state, the cypress (cupressus disticha) is very common. Red cedar, (Juniperns virginiana) is found upon the high rocky banks of the Mississippi, and upon the flint hills of the mine district. On the Gasconade river, about one hundred miles above its confluence with the Missouri, the timber is principally white and yellow pine, which is very valuable on account of its being so rare throughout the valley of the Mississippi. Several saw mills are now in operation at this place, and it is probable the number will be much increased. Formerly, lumber was brought at great expense from the Alleghany and Ohio rivers. At present it can be sent down the Gasconade to St. Louis, and the other towns along the Missouri and Mississippi, for one fourth the price.
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The following catalogue of some of the genera of plants, which I observed in this state and Illinois, will convey an idea of their botanical riches, and afford an opportunity of comparison with the floras of other parts of the United States.
MONOGYNIA.
Veronica, L. (speedwell.) Gratiola, L. (hedge-hyssop.) Catalpa, Jus. (calalpa tree.) Lycopus, L. (water horehound.) Cunila, L. (mountain dittany.) Hedeoma, Pers. (wild pennyroyal.) Monarda, L. (mountain balm.) Circaea, L. (enchanter's nightshade.) Leptandra, Nutt.
MONOGYNIA.
Fedia, Goert. Iris, L. (flag.) Sisyrinchium, L. (blue-eyed grass.) Calymenia, Pers. (Nuttall.) Leptanthus, Mx. Scirpus, L. (club-rush.) Cyperus, L. (cypress-grass.) Leersia Swartz. (Bradbury,) (rice-grass.) Panicum, L. (panick-grass.) Aristida, L. (Brad.) Stipa, L. (Brad.) (feather-grass.) Aira, L. (hair-grass.) Festuca, L. Poa, L. (meadow-grass) Hordeum, L. (Nutt ) (barley.) Miegia, Pers. (cane.)
Mollugo, L.
MONOGYNIA.
Cephalanthus, L. (button-bush.) Galium, L. (bed-straw.) Houstonia, L. Cornus, L. (dogwood.) Plantago, L. (plaintain.) Ptelea, L. Viscum, L. (misseltoe.)
Hamamelis, L. (witch-hazel,) Hex, L. (ilex.) Potamogeton, L. (pond-weed)
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MONOGYNIA.
Myosotis, L. (scorpion grass.) Lythospermum, L. (gromwell.) Batchia, Mx. Cynoglossum, L. (hound's-tongue.) Pulmonaria, L. (lung-wort.) Onosmodium, Mx. Phacelia, Jussieu. Hydrophyllum, L. (water-leaf.) Ellisia, L. Dodecantheon, L. (American cowslip.) Convolvulus, L. (bindweed.) Phlox, L. Polemonium, L. (jacob's-ladder.) Physalis, L. (winter-cherry.) Datura, L. (Jamestown-weed.) Sabbatia, Adamson. Campanula, L. (bell-flower.) Triosteum, L. (feverwort.) Ribes, L. (currant and gooseberry ) Vitis, L. (vine) Impatiens, L. (touch-me-not.) Viola, L. (violet.) Claytonia, Gronovius. Solanum, L. (nightshade.) Ceanothus, L. (New-Jersey-tea.) Evonymus, L. (spindle-tree.) Thesium, L. Verbascum, L. (mullein.)
Apocynum, L. (Indian-hemp.) Asclepias, L. (milk-weed.) Gentiana, L. (gentian.) Heachera, L. (alum root.) Sanicula, L. (sanicle.) Erigenia, Nutt. Cicuta, L. (water-hemlock.) Myrrhis, Morisun. (chervil.) Uraspermum? Nutt. Smyrnium, L. (alexanders.) Thapsium, Nutt. Chenopodium, L. (goosefoot.) Ulmus, L. (elm.) Celtis, L. (nettle-tree, hackberry.)
Viburnum, L. Sambucus, L. (elder.) Rhus, L. (sumach.) Staphylea, L.
Aralia, L. Linum, L. (flax.)
MONOGYNIA.
Tradescantia, L. (spider-wort.) Allium, L. (garlick.) Hypoxis. L Lillium, L. (lily.) Erythronium, L. (dog's tooth-violet, adder's tongue.) Uvularia, L. (bellwort.) Convallaria,
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L. Polygonatum, Desfontaines, (solomon's seal.) Juncus, L. (rush.) Streptopus, Mx. Phalangium, Tournefort.
Trillium, L. (three-leaved nightshade.) Rumex, L. (dock.)
Alisma, L. (water plantain.)
MONOGYNIA.
Aesculus, L. (horse chesnut -- buck-eye.)
MONOGYNIA.
Rhexia, L. Oenothera, L. (tree primrose.) Gaura, L. Epilobium, L. (willow herb.) Oxycoccus, Pers. (cranberry.) Acer, L. (maple.)
Polygonum, L. (buckwheat.)
MONOGYNIA.
Laurus, L. (spicewood.)
MONOGYNIA.
Vaccinium, L. (whortle-berry.) Cassia, L. Babtisia, Ventenat. (wild indigo.) Cercis, L. (red-bud.)
Tiarella, L.
Stellaria, L. (stitch-wort.)
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Cerastium, L. (mouse ear-chickweed.) Agrostemma, L. (corn cockle.) Oxalis, L. Penthorum, L. Sedum, L. (stone-crop.)
Phytolacca, L. (poke.)
MONOGYNIA.
Prunus, L. (plum and cherry.) Lythrum, L. (loose-strife.)
Agrimonia, L. (agrimony.) Crataegus, L. (hawthorn.)
Pyrus, L. (the apple and pear.) Spiraea, L. Gillenia, Moench. (Indian physic.)
Rose, L. (rose.) Rubus, L. (bramble.) Geum, L. (avens.) Potentialla, L. (cinquefoil.) Fragaria, L. (strawberry.)
MONOGYNIA.
Tilia, L. (linden or lime-tree.) Sanguinaria, L. (puccoon.) Podophyllum, L. (May apple.) Actaea, L. (bane-berries.) Nuphar, Smith, (yellow pond-lily.) Helianthemum, Tournefort.
Delphinium, L. (larkspur.) Aquilegia, L. (columbine.) Hypericum, L. (St. John's wort.)
Porcelia, Pers. (papaw.) Clematis, L. (virgin's bower.) -- Anemone, L. Thalictrum, L. (meadow rue.) Hydrastis, L. Caltha, L. (marsh marigold.) Hepatica, Willd. (liver-wort.) Ranunculus, L. (crow-foot.)
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GYMNOSPERMIA.
Teucrium, L. (germander.) Mentha, L. (mint.) Isanthus, Mx. Nepeta, L. (cat-mint.) Stachys, L. (hedge nettle) Marrubium, L. (horehound.) Pycnanthemum, Mx. (mountain mint.) Prunella, L. (self-heal.) Scutellaria, L. (scull-cap.) Cunila, L. (dittany.)
Phryma, L. Verbena, L. (vervain.) Scrophularia, L. (fig-wort.) Bignonia, L. (trumpet flower.) Ruellia, L. Buchnera, L. Collinsia, Nutt. Gerardia, L. Pedicularis, L. (louse-wort.) Mimulus, L. (monkey flower.) Chelone, L. Pentstemon, L. Martynia, L. Bartsia, L. Orobanche, L. (broom-rape.)
SILICULOSA.
Draba, L. (whitlow grass.) Lepidium, L. (cress.) Thlaspi, L. (shepherd's-purse.)
Dentaria, L. (tooth-wort.) Cardamine, L. (American water-cress.) Sisymbrium, L. (water radish.) Turritis, L. (tower mustard.) Cleome, L.
PENTANDRIA.
Lobelia, L. Passiflora, L. (passion flower.)
Geranium, L. Schrankia, Willd.
Sida, L. Malva, L. (mallow.)
PENTANDRIA.
Petalostemon, Mx.
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Corydalis, Vent.
Polygala, L. (milk-wort.)
Amorpha, L. Lupinus, L. (lupin.) Vicia, L. (vetch.) Lathyrus, L. Astragalus, L. (milk-vetch.) Psoralea, L. Trifolium, L. (trefoil) Glycyrrhiza, L. Lespedeza, Mx. Hedysarum, L. haseolus, L. (kidney bean.) Robinia, L. (locust tree.) Tephrosia, Pers. Dolichos, L.
POLYGAMIA AEQUALIS.
Leontodon, L. (dandelion.) Prenanthes, L. Sonchus, L. (sow-thistle.) Hieracium, L. (hawkweed.) Cnicus, Willd. (thistle.) Liatris, Schreber. Vernonia, Schreber. Eupatorium, L. Cacalia, L.
Gnaphalium, L. (life-everlasting.) Erigeron, L. (flea-bane.) Aster, L. (star-wort.) Solidago, L. (golden-rod.) Senecio, L. (rag-wort.) Anthemis, L. (May-weed.) Achillea, L. (millfoil.) Heliopsis, L'Heretier. Helenium, L. (American sneezewort.) Boebera, Willd.
Helianthus, L. (sunflower.) Rudbeckia, L. Bidens, L. (bur marygold.) Coreopsis, L. Actinomeris, Nutt.
Silphium, L. Ambrosia, L. (bitter weed.)
Elephantopus, L. (elephant's foot.)
MONANDRIA.
Orchis, L.
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Cypripedium, Swartz.
TRIANDRIA.
Sparganium, L. (bur-reed.) Carex, L. (sedge.) Comptonia, Gaertner, (sweet fern.)
Alnus, Willd. (alder.) Urtica, L. (nettle.) Morus, L. (mulberry.)
Sagittaria, L. (arrowhead.) Quercus, L. (oak.) Corylus, L. (hazle-nut tree.) Fagus, L. (beech tree.) Castanea, Tournefort, (chestnut.) Platanus, L. (button-wood.) Juglans, L. (walnut.) Arum, L. (wake robin.)
Pinus, L. (pine tree.) Cupressus, L. (cypress.) Euphorbia, L. (spurge.)
DIANDRIA.
Salix, L. (willow.) Fraxinus, L. (ash.)
Smilax, L. (green-briar.) Gleditschia, L. (honey locust.)
Populus, L. (poplar.) Diospyros, L. (percimon.)
Menispermum, L. (moon-seed.)
Maize, is as yet the staple production of this state, as well as Illinois, a large surplus quantity of which is annually raised, and exported to New Orleans. Wheat, rye, oats, &c. also flourish here, and yield large crops.
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Cotton, is cultivated in the southern part of the state, and on the Missouri river; and although the crop is sometimes destroyed by early frosts, it amply repays the labour and expense of cultivation.Tobacco, will no doubt become one of the most valuable productions of this state. It is already so extensively cultivated, that a considerable quantity is exported. The act establishing and regulating inspections of tobacco, passed by the general assembly of this state during their session of 1821 -- 32, will have the effect of encouraging its cultivation, by establishing its reputation in foreign markets. This act provides, that the the several county courts shall authorise the erection of warehouses for the reception and inspection of tobacco, at such places in their respective counties as they may deem necessary and proper; and that all the tobacco which shall be brought to the warehouses thus established, shall be viewed, examined, and inspected by a person skilful in tobacco, who shall be annually appointed for that purpose, by the county courts of the several counties wherein any warehouse or warehouses shall be established. The act further provides, that every person who shall be appointed an inspector, shall, before he enters on the duties of his office, enter into bonds, with a sufficient security, in the penalty of not less than one thousand dollars, payable to the county court for the benefit of the county, for the faithful performance of his duty; and that he shall also take an oath to the same effect That it shall be the duty of the inspectors, to attend at their respective warehouses from the first to the tenth of every month, (Sundays excepted.) to receive, inspect, and deliver out tobacco. ‘That the inspector shall enter, in a book to be kept for that purpose, the marks and owners’ names of all tobacco brought to the respective warehouses for inspection, in the order in which the same shall be brought in; and such inspector shall view and inspect the same in due time, as shall be entered in such book, without favor or partiality, and shall uncase and break in at least two places in every hogshead or cask of tobacco brought to be inspected as aforesaid; and if he shall find the same to be good and well conditioned, merchantable and free from trash, he shall determine whether such tobacco is of the first, second, or third quality; shall weigh the
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same, and shall stamp or mark upon the hogshead or cask, with the name of the owner and of the person by whom raised (if known,) the name of the warehouse at which inspected, and also the tare of the hogshead or cask, the quantity of nett tobacco therein contained, and whether the same is of the first, second, or third quality. The inspector shall issue a receipt to this effect if required by the owner. The act also provides that when any tobacco shall be refused by the inspector, the proprietor thereof shall be at liberty to separate the good from the bad for re inspection; but if he refuse so to do, then it shall be the duty of the said inspector to weigh, prize and cooper up the same, and mark the gross weight on the cask, and take care of and deliver the same to the owner. And for the prevention of frauds, the inspector shall grant a manifest or certificate for each hogshead of tobacco so refused, specifying the weight of the same, and that the same had been inspected and refused; and if any person shall sell refused tobacco, or manufacture the same without such manifest, he shall forfeit and pay the sum of fifty dollars for every hogshead so sold or manufactured, one half to the person sueing for the same, and the residue for the benefit of the county in which the offence shall be committed. This act further provides, that no tobacco shall be exported from this state unless the same shall be packed in hogsheads or casks taken from some public warehouse thus established, and received and inspected as above directed -- and that any person exporting any uninspected tobacco to any port or place without the limits of this state, shall forfeit and pay the sum of six and one fourth cents for every pound of tobacco so exported, to be received and applied as is directed in the case of penalties for shipping refused tobacco.ANIMALS. In addition to the animals mentioned in the general view of Illinois, may be added, as common in this state, the Bison and Elk. Immense herds of the former are frequently seen covering the extensive plains which stretch along the western part of this state. During dry seasons, they remain in the neighbourhood of rivers; but they uniformly emigrate to the south upon the approach of winter.
MINERALS. The mineral riches of Missouri are not excelled, if equalled, by any of the United States, and must render it prosperous
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and wealthy. Of the ores, the moat abundant and valuable that have as yet been discovered, are those of lead and iron.According to Mr. Schoolcraft, who has written a very excellent work on the lead mines of Missouri, "the district of country which is characterized by affording lead ore, extends in length from the head waters of the St. Francis in a northwest direction, to the Merrimack, a distance of 70 miles; and in breadth from the Mississippi in a southwest direction to the Fourche a Courtois, a distance of about 45 miles, and covering an area of 3150 square miles." The same author observes, "that it is not upon every particular section of this tract that the ore can be traced, and that the fact of its existence cannot be ascertained by the character of the soil, rocks, or other fossil bodies. But still there is no considerable part of the tract on which the ore is not to be found. The general aspect of the country is sterile and hilly; in some places the hills rise into abrupt cliffs. Highland barrens, level and sterile, are here and there to be seen. The soil, is of a reddish coloured clay, stiff and hard, and full of fragments of flinty stone, quartz and gravel: this extends to the depth of from 10 to 20 feet, and is bottomed on limestone rock. It is so compact in many places as almost to resist the pickaxe; in others, it seems to partake of marl, is less gravelly, and readily penetrated. The country is particularly characterized by quartz, winch is strewed in detached pieces over the surface of the ground, and is also imbedded in the soil at all depths. This is here called blossom of lead. Iron ores and pyrites are also scattered over the surface of the ground, and occasionally lead ore."
The following is a list of the mines given by Mr. Schoolcraft. It comprises those of most note in 1818; since which time, however, in consequence of the increased attention paid to the working of this valuable ore, the number has been much increased.
Mine a Burton, Moreau's Diggings,
Mine a Robino, Tapley's Diggings,
Mine a Martin, Lamberts Diggings,
New Diggings, Old Mines,
Perry's Diggings, Mine Shibboleth,
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Hawkins' Mine, Elliot's Mines,Rosebury's Mine, Belle Fountaine,
Austin's Shaft, Cannon's Mines,
Jones' Shaft, Little Diggings,
Rocky Diggings, Becquet's Diggings,
Gravelly Diggings, Mine Liberty,
Brushy-run Diggings, Renault's Mines,
Stricklin's Diggings, Miller's Mines,
Bibb's Diggings, Mine Silvers,
Tebault's Diggings, Fourche a Courtois,
Mine Astraddle, Pratt's Mine,
Masson's Diggings, alias Partney's do, Lebaum's Mine,
I. Scott's Diggings, Brian's Mine,
T. Scott's Diggings, Dogget's Mine,
Micheaux's Diggings, Mine La Motte,
Henry's Diggings, McKane's Mine,
Citadel Diggings, Gray's Mine.
By far the greatest proportion of these mines are situated in Washington and St. Francois counties; a few of them, however, are in St. Genevieve and Jefferson.
According to the author above quoted, "the ore is found in detached pieces, and solid masses, in veins and beds, in red clay, and accompanied by sulphate of barytes, calcareous spar, blende, iron pyrites and quartz. The ore is of that kind called by mineralogists, lead glance, or galena, and is the sulphuret of lead of chemistry. As it is dug up, or quarried from the adhering spar, it presents a very rich appearance. It has a broad glittering grain, of a lead-gray colour, which sometimes passes into a bluish shade. This particular colour may not be recognized on a superficial view, for when the ore is piled in shining heaps at the mouths of the mines, there is so rich and dazzling a reflection of light, that it appears white, and a person unacquainted with ores, might readily mistake it for silver. The ore is easily broken by the blow of a hammer, and may be pounded to a fine powder; it still preserves its glittering, appearance, and is sometimes used in this state as paper sand, for which it is an elegant substitute In breaking it, a mathematical law is observable; it always separates
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in cubes, which are more or less perfect, and on pounding, it continues to preserve this figure, until the particles become too minute to discover their particular shape. Sometimes detached lumps of four or five pounds weight, of a cubical form, are found imbedded in the clay. Its primitive figure of crystallization, is particularly observable after the ore has been desulphurated by heat, which, at the same time, increases its splendor, and renders the lines of intersection between the facets in which the ore is crystallized, more plainly discoverable.""The most valuable substance accompanying the lead ore, is blende, an ore of zinc, which is found at several of the mines; and there is reason to conclude that large bodies of it exist. This is the sulphuret of zinc of chemistry, and is the same substance called black jack by the English miners, and sometimes called pseudo galena, and mock lead, in writings on this subject. As few are acquainted with its nature or properties, and no one appears to be aware of its uses, no search has been made for it; and, indeed, in digging, they have rather avoided places where it is must abundant, considering it a useless thing."
Besides the inexhaustible quantities of lead which are found in the mine tract, iron is also very abundant in different parts of the state, and is not exceeded in richness by any ore in the U. States. "In Bellevue, Washington county," says Mr. Schoolcraft, "in the richness of the ore, and extent of the beds or mines, it is nowhere paralleled. The most noted place is called the Iron mountain, where the ore is piled in such enormous masses as to constitute the entire southern extremity of a lofty ridge, which is elevated five or six hundred feet above the plain. The ore is very heavy and brilliant, and is of that kind denominated micaceous oxyl of iron in mineralogy."
"There is another remarkable body of iron ore in Stout's settlement, five miles west of the Iron mountain, scarcely inferior to it either in the extent or richness of its ore. It has also a seat for water works near it. Several other beds exist in the same neighbourhood, but none equal to the surprising bodies already mentioned."
I shall conclude this article with the following catalogue of minerals, which occur in Missouri and Illinois. With few exceptions, however, they exclusively belong to the former.
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Nitrate of potash, salt petre. (Localities) This mineral is found in abundance in several caverns on the Merrimack and Currents rivers, (Schoolcraft.) Also in similar situations, near Ashley's powder mills on the Gasconade, 100 miles west of St. Louis.
Muriate of soda, common salt. Salt springs are found in almost every part of the state. The most extensive works are situated near Franklin, Herculaneum, and St. Genevieve.
Sulphate of harytes, heavy spar. In Washington, Jefferson, and St. Francois counties, where it forms the gangue of the lead
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ore. It has also been found in small quantities in St. Louis accompanying the same ore. The specimen which I saw was obtained from a well which had been recently dug, about twelve or fifteen feet below the surface of the earth. This mineral is also found on the Gasconade river, and in the northern part of the state.Calcareous spar In the mine district it occurs in white or honey yellow, transparent masses, in a red marly clay. At Bryan's mines it forms the matrix of the lead ore. -- (Schoolcraft.)
Compact limestone. This constitutes the basis rock at St. Louis, and other places on the Mississippi. It is of a greyish blue colour, and is filled with shells.
Chalk. On the banks of the Mississippi in Cape Girardeau county. (Schoolcraft.)
Agaric mineral. This mineral is found as a sediment in a spring in St. Clair county, Illinois. (Schoolcraft.)
Concreted carbonate of lime. In Gallatin county, Illinois, on Peter's creek, in globular concretions about the size of mustard-seed shot, composed of concentric layers, embracing a nucleus: sometimes the nucleus is wanting, and a cavity appears in or near the centre of the globule. The globules are united by a calcareous cement. (Jessup, in Cleaveland's Mineralogy.)
Calcareous sinter. Beautiful specimens are found in the caverns about one mile and a half south of St. Louis. In one of these there is a stalactite of upwards of three feet in diameter, extending from the roof to the floor.
Foetidfluate of lime. In Gallatin county, Illinois, on Peter's creek, 17 miles from Shawneetown; at the three forks of Grand Pierre creek, 27 miles from Shawneetown; and also occasionally on the soil, for 80 miles southvvest from Cave in Rock on the Ohio. It occurs massive, and in cubes, either perfect or truncated, solitary or aggregated, and it, associated with galena, &c. in alluvial deposite, or in veins which appear to traverse compact limestone and calcareous sandstone. At Peter's creek, it is almost always in crystals, sometimes several inches in diameter, presenting very rich and beautiful colours. Though sometimes limpid, and sometimes nearly black, its more
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common colours are some shade of violet, purple, red or yellow. The limpid and yellow crystals are sometimes invested with a thin violet or red coat. It is usually phosphorescent by heat, excepting when nearly black. The coloured crystals are often fetid by percussion. At the forks of Grand Pierre creek, it occurs on the surface of the soil in masses, which are sometimes several feet in diameter. Its colours are violet, rose, and green. (Jessup and Silliman, in Cleaveland's Mineralogy.)Sulphate of lime. Gypsum. In Missouri. The cliffs on the Kansas river frequently consist of solid strata of this mineral. (Brackenridge.) On Blue-water creek. (Lewis & Clark) -- On the banks of the Femme Osage, about 40 miles from St. Charles, in compact masses. In Illinois, St. Clair county, where it occurs crystallized. (Schoolcraft.)
Sulphate of Alumine and Potash. Alum. In Missouri, in a cave in Bellevue, Washington county, where it is found effloresced. (Schoolcraft.) In Illinois, near Fort Edwards, in Pike county.
EARTHY COMPOUNDS.
Common quartz. On the south bank of White river, where it occurs in large masses. (Schoolcraft.)
Yellow quartz. Citrine. On the banks of the Mississippi, between Cape Girardeau and St. Louis. Missouri, where it occurs in rolled masses, varying in colour from pale orange yellow to yellowish red. (Schoolcraft.)
Radiated quartz. This variety is very abundant in Washington and St. Francois counties, Missouri. It is found in the soil in masses of different sizes, and is called by the inhabitants mineral blossom, from its being supposed, erroneously however, to indicate the presence of lead ore.
Granular quartz. In Missouri, eight miles nearly west of St. Genevieve. It is white, friable, and falls into transparent grains. (Schoolcraft.) On the banks of the Mississippi river, a few miles above St. Genevieve, and in Montgomery county.
Ferruginous quartz. In Missouri, on the banks of the Merrimack river, and on Mine a Burton creek, in rolled masses of a deep red colour, possessing a flinty hardness and vitreous lustre. (Schoolcraft.)
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Chalcedony. In Missouri, on the banks of the Mississippi at Herculaneum; also on Bstablishment creek, in St. Genevieve county. Its colour is milk white, yellowish white, or brownish yellow; sometimes spotted, zoned, or dentritic. Also in Washington county, where it appears in concentric bluish white layers, invested with crystals of radiated and mamillary quartz. (Schoolcraft.) In amorphous masses, on the banks of the Missouri near St. Charles. In Illinois, on the banks of the Illinois river near Fort Clark.Carnetian. On the banks of the Mississippi at Herculaneum and St. Louis, and on the Missouri at St. Charles, in rolled, brown, red and yellow masses.
Precious opal. Beautiful specimens of this mineral are found near Cave in Rock, Gallatin county, Illinois. I have a single specimen, similar to that described by Mr. Schoolcraft.
Opalized wood. On the hanks of the Mississippi and Missouri rivers, at St. Louis and St. Charles.
Flint. On the banks of the Mississippi near Cape Girardeau, in nodules and veins, or strata, embraced in a horizontal bed of white clay. (Jessup in Cleaveland.) Also at St. Louis, in the secondary limestone, in nodules and veins.
Hornstone. This mineral is continually found on the banks of the Mississippi and Missouri, imbedded in the secondary limestone.
Agatized wood. On the banks of the Mississippi at Herculaneum, St. Louis, and St. Charles, accompanying jasper and carnelian.
Buhrstone. Millstone. In Illinois, near the junction of the Illinois river with the Mississippi.
Jasper. In Missouri, in the bed of Cave creek, near the head of Currents river, in a stratum of secondary limestone (Schoolcraft.) Also in rolled masses of different colours, on the banks of the Mississippi and Missouri, at St. Louis and St. Charles, accompanying agatized wood and carnelian.
Onyx agate. This variety of agate is found on the west bank of Establishment creek, eight miles from St. Genevieve, on the road to Potosi. It occurs in bluish white, pale blue, and dark blue masses, on the surface of the ground and also associated wilth chalcedony and hornstone. (Schoolcraft.)
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Pumice. This mineral floats down the Missouri, and is found deposited on the sand-bars at St. Louis and St. Charles.Shorl. Ill defined crystals of this mineral are found in certain granitic aggregates in Madison county, Missouri. (Schoolcraft.)
Feldspar. Flesh red crystals of this mineral are found imbedded in greenstone on St. Francis river, at a place called the Narrows, in Madison county, Missouri. (Schoolcraft.)
Hornblende. Crystals of this mineral, imbedded in masses of greenstone, are found near Fort Clark on the Illinois river.
Steatite. Soapstone. In Missouri, it is found in the vicinity of old Fort Mason, of a yellow and green colour intermixed. -- (Schoolcraft.) I have in my possession a pipe made of this mineral, which I was informed had been obtained a few miles above Fort Clark on the Illinois river.
Argillaceous slate. It is found overlaying shale on the Missouri, at La Charboniere, six miles above St. Charles.
Shale. On the Missouri under the above. It rests upon coal and sometimes alternates with it.
Novaculite. In Arkansas Territory, this mineral occurs of a good quality. It is of a grayish and greenish white colour, and is translucent. (Schoolcraft.) I have been informed that this mineral is also found in the southern part of Missouri.
Potters' Clay. On the right bank of the Mississippi, commencing at the head of Tywapety bottom, about 40 miles above the junction of the Ohio, and extending for 34 miles to nearly six miles above the Grand Tower. The stratum varies in thickness from one to ten feet, rests upon sandstone and is covered by shell limestone, containing well characterized nodules and veins of flint. (Jessup, in Cleaveland.) Also, at Gray's mine in Jefferson county, ten feet below the surface of the ground, snow white, unctious, becomes plactic by mixture with water and is infusible in a very high heat. (Schoolcraft.)
Fuller's Earth. In Missouri, on the banks of the Mississippi river at Tywapety and Bois-brule bottoms, and also near St. Genevieve. (Schoolcraft.)
Reddle. Red Chalk This mineral occurs in a bed of considerable extent in Washington county, Missouri. (Schoolcraft.)
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Sulphur. Several springs in the vicinity of Herculaneum are highly impregnated with this mineral. It is deposited on the stones over which the water runs in the form of a yellowish crust. This is also the case at the spring, five miles west or St. Louis.
Graphite. In Madison and Washington counties, Missouri. It occurs in laminae and nodules, disseminated in iron ore.
Coal. In Missouri, at Florissant. 18 miles north of St. Louis, and on Osage river. (Schoolcraft.) At La Charboniere, on the Missouri river. Judge Pettibone has also recently discovered this mineral in the town of St. Charles. In Illinois, near the junction of Fox river with the Illinois, 40 miles southwest from Chicago. (Schoolcraft.) Also, near Alton, on the Mississippi.
Native copper. In Illinois, in detached masses, lying on the surface of the ground, seven miles east of Harrisonville, Monroe county; also on Big Muddy river. (Schoolcraft.) Also in rounded masses near Peoria. I obtained a specimen from this place which weighed about two pounds. (See Fort Clark.)
Sulphuret of iron. Iron pyrites. In Missouri, on the branches of the Merrimack, and at several mines in Washington county; crystallized, and in lamellar masses, sometimes interspersed with blende, heavy spar and galena. (Schoolcraft.) Also, in Pike county, near Louisiana, in globular masses, which are sometimes radiated. In Illinois, near Alton, alternating with Coal.
Magnetic oxide of iron. I have in my possession a specimen of this mineral, found near the Hot Springs, in Arkansas territory. I have been informed that it occurs in the southern part of Missouri.
Micaceous oxide of iron. At the Narrows, Madison county, Missouri, a vein of this ore is found traversing red granite. -- (Schoolcraft.) Also in Bellevue, Washington county. (See page 190.)
Compact red oxide of iron. On the head waters of Gasconade river. (Schoolcraft.)
Ochrey red oxide of iron. Red ochre. In Cape Girardeau County, six miles west of the Mississippi river. (Schoolcraft.)
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Hematitic brown oxide of iron. Brown hematite. In Illinois, Gallatin county, on Peter's creek, 17 miles from Shawneetown and at the three forks of Grand Pierre creek, in considerable quantities. (Jessup, in Cleaveland.) Capt. Kennerly of St. Louis, presented me with a specimen of this mineral, which was found on the Missouri, near the junction of the Kansas river.Sulphate of iron. Copperas. This mineral is found effloresced on the sulphuret of iron at Alton, in Madison county, Illinois.
Sulphuret of lead. Galena. In Missouri, in the counties of Washington, St. Genevieve, St. Francoise, Madison and Jefferson. (See page 189.) Also, at St. Louis, and in the vicinity of St. Charles, and on the head waters of the Osage river. In Illinois. in Gallatin county, near Shawneetown. (Jessup.) Also on Bean river, where the ore is extensively worked.
Carbonate of lead. In Missouri, at Mine a Burton. In Illinois, at Cave in Rock. In both these situations, it is frequently found incrusting galena. (Schoolcraft.)
Sulphuret of zinc. Blende. This mineral is found associated with sulphuret of lead at the mines in Washington, Jefferson and St. Francois counties, Missouri.
Oxide of manganese. Near the head of the Merrimack river, in Missouri, accompanying ores of iron. (Schoolcraft.)
Sulphuret of antimony. Specimens of this mineral have been found in Washington county, Missouri, and thirty miles north of Edwardsville in Illinois. (Schoolcraft.)
CLIMATE. It should be remembered that the valley of the Mississippi is bounded on the east and west by ranges of mountains, and on the north by a chain of lakes extending in a northwesterly direction to the Frozen Ocean. These of course have a powerful influence upon its winds, and consequently upon its climate. Without farther introduction, I shall proceed to state the results of observations made at St. Louis, which is about a central point for the states of Missouri and Illinois.
Temperature. The following results are drawn from three years' observations,
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Mean temperature for 1817, 55.52Do. do. from the beginning of
May, 1818, to the end of April, 1819, 56.98
Mean temperature for 1820, 56.18
The mean of these results is about fifty-six degrees and a quarter, which, although the number of observations does not warrant a positive conclusion, may be regarded as the standard temperature of this place.
The mean temperature of each month during the above years, is as follows:
January, 30.62
February, 38.65
March, 43.13
April, 58.47
May, 62.66
June, 74.47
July, 78.66
August, 72.88
September, 70.10
October, 59.00
November, 53.13
December, 34.33
The following statement will exhibit the annual range of the thermometer:
1817 -- Lowest 5° below 0 Highest -- 10 Range -- 96
1818 -- 19 8 ° above 0 96 88
1820 -- 6° below 0 100 94
The average monthly range during these years, is as follows:
January, from 3 to 59 Range 56
February, 6 74 68
March, 16 73 57
April, 32 83 51
May, 43 89 46
June, 52 94 42
July, 61 99 38
August, 59 96 37
September, 40 92 50
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October, from 24 to 81 Range 57November, 37 78 41
December, 19 63 44
The mean temperature of the different seasons is as follows:
Winter, 34.53 -- Spring, 54.74 -- Summer, 75.34 -- Autumn, 60.77
The winter generally sets in about the beginning of December, and continues until the end of February. It sometimes, however, varies much, being either longer or shorter. Within the last 20 years, the character of the winters appears to have been continually changing. Maj. Stoddard, in his sketches of Louisiana, observes: "For three successive winters, commencing in 1802, the Mississippi at St. Louis was passable on the ice before the 20th of December each year; and it was clear of all obstruction, with one exception, by the last of February. In January, 1805, the ice in that river rather exceeded twenty-two inches in thickness. There is seldom more than six inches of snow on the ground at the same time; but the severity of the weather at St. Louis is generally about the same as in the back parts of the state of New-Jersey. The mercury frequently falls below 0; and the cold keeps it depressed as low as ten or fifteen degrees for several weeks during each winter."
"The winters of St. Louis," says Mr. Brackenridge, "are usually more mild than in the same latitudes east of the Alleghany mountains, but there are frequently several days in succession of weather as cold as in Canada. Last January, (1811) after several weeks of delightful weather, when the warmth was even disagreeable, the thermometer standing at 78 degrees, a change took place, and so sudden, that in four days it fell to 10 degrees below 0. This winter was also remarkable for a circumstance which the oldest inhabitant does not recollect to have ever witnessed; the Mississippi closed over twice, whereas it most usually remains open during winter." We have no particular account of the winters between this time and 1817; but if we may credit the assertions of the old inhabitants, they were generally temperate.
The mean temperature of January, 1817, was 26°: about equal to that of the same month in New-York. The winter of
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1818 -- 19 was very mild, and exhibited a singular contrast with the two or three preceding. The mean temperature of January was nearly 39°: the weather continued mild during the month of February, and the thermometer on some days rose to 72°. At St. Louis the Mississippi remained open during the whole season. During the winter of 1819 -- 20, the Mississippi closed about the 20th of December, and remained in this situation until the 10th of February. The mean temperature of January was 27°; varying but little from that of the same month in 1817. On two occasions the mercury fell to six degrees below 0. -- From ten to twelve inches of snow fell during the month, and continued on the ground for three, or four weeks. The winter of 1820 -- 21 differed but little from the last. The Mississippi continued closed for six or seven weeks, and the earth was covered, during the months of December and January, with from six to twelve inches of snow.The winter of 1821 -- 22 was less severe than the two former. About the first of December the cold weather commenced. On the 22d, the Mississippi closed opposite St. Louis; and during the remainder of the month, the weather was clear and pleasant, and the thermometer frequently rose to 60°. On the 4th of January, the mercury fell to 4° below 0; but after this the weather again became mild, and continued so during the month. On the 22d the Mississippi opened, having been closed since the 22d of December. The depth of snow this winter never exceeded six inches.
Concerning the summers, so little authentic information can be obtained, that it is difficult to determine whether they have undergone any change; but it is probable that they remain nearly the same. Major Stoddard, in the work to which we have so often referred, observes, "We cannot estimate the degrees of heat by any regular thermometrical observations for any number of years; but in the summer of 1805, a thermometer was suspended in a large drawing-room at St. Louis, against a stone partition wall, and constantly in a current of air; and from about the last of June to some time in August, the mercury frequently rose to ninety-six degrees, and remained at that point for several hours in the day." By a reference to the thermometrical observations of which we have given an abstract, it
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appears, that on the 30th of July, 1817, the mercury rose to 101 degrees; and on the 19th of August it rose to 99 degrees; and that during these two months it was frequently up to 96°: that in June and July, 1818, the thermometer frequently attained the height of 96 degrees, but did not in any instance rise higher: and that in June and August, 1820, it frequently rose to 96°, and in July to 100°: The mean temperature of these three summers is as follows:1817, 72° -- 1818, 77° -- 1820, 78° nearly.
It may be remarked, that so far as my information extends, July is invariably the hottest month.
The rains which succeed the breaking up of the Mississippi, generally continue at intervals through the greater part of February and March, and constitute what is called the rainy season. The first spring month is, therefore, disagreeable and cheerless; and the emigrant who arrives in Missouri during this time, forms a sad opinion of its climate. But as soon as the rains subside, he is delighted with the contrast. The forests now put forth their foliage, the prairies are covered with their brilliant carpets, and all nature around him appears to smile. He is fanned by a gentler and more fragrant breeze, and is covered by a bluer and more beautiful sky, than those to which he has been accustomed.
It has been justly observed, that plants furnish data for the most correct conclusions concerning the climate of a country. For the purpose of giving all the information id my power upon this interesting subject, I have been induced to present the following floral calendar. It comprises the mean results of observations made upon the must common indigenous and cultivated plants in St. Louis and the vicinity.
March 7. Whitlow grass, (draba verna,) in flower.
8. Honeysuckles putting forth their leaves.
15. Buds of the peach and cherry trees beginning to open,
18. Elm, (ulmus americana,) in flower.
20. Wind-flower, (anemone thalictroides,) in blossom.
22. Crow-foot, (ranunculus fascicularis,) beginning to flower.
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24. Liver-wort, (hepatica triloba,) in flower.Blood root, (sanguinaria canadensis,) do.
Cherry trees in full bloom.
30. Peach trees do.
April 8. Strawberries beginning to flower.
Peas in full bloom.
10. American cowslip, (caltha palustris,) in flower.
12. Redbad, (cercis canadensis,) do.
Red currants do.
18. Dogwood, (cornus florida,) do.
Columbine (aquilegia canadensis,) do.
Sugar maple. (acer saccharinum,) do.
22. May-apple, (podophyllum peltatum,) do.
Papaw, (porcelia triloba,) do.
Dewberry, (rubus trivialis,) do.
30. Full grown radishes in market.
May 8. Green peas do.
9. Spider-wort, (tradescantia virginica,) in flower.
13. Strawberries beginning to ripen.
Ladies'-slipper, (cypripedium spectabile,) in flower.
15. Blue flag, (iris virginica,) do.
Milkweed, (asclepias syriaca,) do.
New-Jersey tea, (ceanothus,) do.
29. Cherries beginning to ripen.
June 3. Wild lily, (lilium catesbei,) in flower.
7. Poke. (phytolacca decandria,) do.
10. Catalpa tree in full bloom.
15. Locust trees do.
21. St. John's wort, (hypericum perforatum,) in flower.
July 10. Blackberries ripe.
22. Scullcap, (scutellaria lateriflora,) in flower.
28. Bone-set, (eupatorium perfoliatum,) do.
Wild senna, (cassia marylandica,) do.
Peaches beginning to ripen.
Aug. 10. Common golden-rod, (solidago,) beginning to flower.
13. Several species of aster do.
The autumn is generally temperate. About the middle of October, or beginning of November, the Indian summer commences,
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and continues from fifteen to twenty days. During this season the weather is dull and cheerless, the atmosphere is smoky and the sun and moon are sometimes almost totally obscured It is now generally admitted, that this is caused by the burning of the withered grass and herbs on the extensive prairies of the north and west, which also accounts for its increased duration as you proceed westward.Winds. During the spring, summer and autumn, southerly winds are the most prevalent. These are sometimes warm and arid, at others cool and humid. They seldom, however, cause heavy rains. West and northwest winds prevail during the months of December and January. Although these are generally dry and piercing, they frequently accompany storms of hail and snow. North and northeast winds are comparatively rare. The latter usually cause heavy rains.
Weather. A striking feature in the climate of this place, is the great proportion of clear days. The observations which I made during the year 1820, furnish the following results:
Clear days 245
Cloudy 110.
As no regular record of the weather has been kept for any length of time, either before or since, I am unable to compare the above results. But if any reliance is to be placed upon the information of those who have resided here for many years, the proportion of clear days is by no means uncommon.
ANTIQUITIES. Mounds, similar to those in Illinois, exist in different parts of this state. They are of different forms and dimensions; sometimes solitary, and sometimes in groups. -- Fragments of earthen ware, arrow heads, and human bones, are frequently found in their vicinity. The ruins of stone building's are also found on the Gasconade river and Noyer creek, of which no account can be given by the present inhabitants. They appear to have been erected by a people tolerably skilled in architecture, and certainly more civilized than the present generation of savages. (See St. Louis, Gasconade river, and Noyer creek.)
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LAND DISTRICTS. For the sale of public lands in this state, three districts have been formed, and land offices established.The Land District of Howard, is comprised within the following boundaries: Beginning at a point where the western line of range 10, west from the 5th principal meridian, intersects the north line of township 34 north; thence west with said township line, to where the same intersects the Osage boundary line; thence north with the Osage boundary line, to the Missouri river; thence up and with the Missouri river, to the western Indian boundary line at the mouth of Kansas river; thence north with the said western Indian boundary line, to where the same shall intersect the northern Indian boundary line; thence east with the said northern Indian boundary line, to where the same shall intersect the aforesaid west line of range 10; thence south with the said range line, to the place of beginning. The land office is at Franklin.
The Land District of St. Louis, is comprised within the following boundaries: Beginning on the Mississippi river, where the north line of township 34 north intersects the same; thence up and with the Mississippi river, to the mouth of the Des Moines river; thence up and with the Des Moines, to the north Indian boundary line; thence west with the said boundary line, to the west line of range 10 west; thence south with the said range line, to the north line of township 34 north; thence east with the said township line, to the place of beginning. The land office is at St. Louis.
The Land District of Cape Girardeau, is comprised within the following boundaries: Beginning on the Mississippi river, where the north line of township 15 north intersects the same; thence up and with the Mississippi, to its intersection by the north line of township 34 north; thence west with the said north line of township 34, to the Osage boundary line; thence with the said boundary, to the north line of township 15 north; thence east with the said township line, to the place of beginning. The land office is at Jackson.
GOVERNMENT. The constitution of this state was adopted by convention at St. Louis, on the 121h of June, 1820. The powers of government are divided into three distinct departments,
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viz: the legislative, the executive, and the judiciary. The legislative power is vested in a general assembly, consisting of a senate and a house of representatives. The representatives are chosen every second year. Each county shall have at least one representative, but the whole number of representatives shall never exceed one hundred. No person shall be a member of this house, who shall not have attained the age of twenty-four years; who shall not be a free white male citizen of the United States; who shall not have been an inhabitant of the state two years, and of the county which he represents, one year previous to the election. Senators are chosen every four years, but vacate their scats in rotation. No person can be a senator who has not attained to the age of thirty years; who shall not be a free white male citizen of the United States; and who shall not have been an inhabitant of the state four years, and of the district which he may be chosen to represent, one year before his election. The senate shall not consist of less than fourteen nor more than thirty-three members. The executive power is vested in a governor, who is elected by the people every four years. He shall be at least thirty-five years of age, and a natural burn citizen of the United States, or a citizen at the adoption of the constitution of the United States, or an inhabitant of that part of Louisiana, now in the state of Missouri, at the time of the cession thereof from France to the United States, and shall have been a resident of the same at least four years next before his election. The governor is ineligible for the next four years after the expiration of his term of service. Every bill which shall have been passed by both houses of the general assembly shall, before it becomes a law, be presented to the governor for his signature. If he refuses to sign it, he shall return it with his objections to the house in which it originated. After which, a majority of all the members elected to both houses, may pass it into a law. A lieutenant governor is also elected at the same time, in the same manner, and for the same term with the governor. The judiciary is vested in a supreme court, in a chancellor, in circuit courts, and in such other inferior tribunals as the general assembly shall from time to time establish. The governor nominates, and with the advice of the senate, appoints the judges, who206
continue in office during good behaviour, until they arrive at the age of sixty-five years. The right of suffrage is universal. Every free white male citizen of the United States, who shall have attained to the age of twenty-one years, and who shall have resided in this state one year before an election, the last three months whereof shall have been in the county or district in which he offers to vote, shall be deemed a qualified elector of all elective officers; Provided, that no soldier, seaman or marine, in the regular army or navy of the United States, shall be entitled to vote at any election in this state.EDUCATION. By the act of congress admitting this state into the union, one thirty-sixth part of each township was granted to the state for the support of schools, and one entire township of six miles square for the support of a college.
The constitution of Missouri provides, that schools and means of education shall forever be encouraged in this state; and that the general assembly shall take measures to preserve from waste or damage, such lands as have been, or hereafter may be, granted by the United States for the use of schools within each township in this state, and shall apply the funds which may arise from such lands in strict conformity to the object of the grant; and one school, or more, shall be established in each township as soon as practicable and necessary, where the poor shall be taught gratis.
It also provides, that the general assembly shall take measures fur the improvement of such lands as have been, or hereafter may be granted by the United States to this state, for the support of a seminary of learning; and the funds accruing from such lands, by rent, lease, or in any other manner, or which may be attained from any other source for the purposes aforesaid, shall be and remain a permanent fund to support a university for the promotion of literature, and of the arts and sciences; and it shall be the duty of the general assembly, as soon as may be, to provide effectual means for the improvement of the funds and endowments of such institution.
INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. In the act of congress admitting this state into the union, five per cent of the net proceeds of the
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sale of public lands was appropriated to making roads and canals for the benefit of this state.By the constitution of Missouri, it is made the duty of the general assembly, as soon as may be, to make provision by law for ascertaining the most proper objects of improvement in relation both to roads and navigable waters; and also to provide by law for a systematic and economical application of the funds appropriated to these objects.
As the condition of the above grants for the encouragement of education and for internal improvements, the constitution of this state provides, that the general assembly shall never interfere with the primary disposal of the soil by the United States, nor with any regulation congress may find necessary for securing the title in such soil to the bona fide purchasers. That no tax shall be imposed on lands, the property of the United States; that lands belonging to persons residing out of the limits of this state, shall never be taxed higher than the lands belonging to persons residing within the state; and that the Mississippi river, and the navigable waters leading into the same, whether bordering on, or within this state, shall be common highways, and forever free to the citizens of the United States, without any tax, duty, impost or toll therefor, imposed by the state.
HISTORY. For many years after the discovery of the Mississippi, the French settlements were confined exclusively to the east side of that river. But the vain hope of discovering the precious metals, which was raised by the report of a few straggling adventurers, induced them to turn their attention to the west. Accordingly, in the early part of the 18th century, the governor of Louisiana prepared an expedition to visit the mines of the upper Mississippi. A fort was erected, and a settlement commenced; but the prejudices of the savages were soon excited, and the French found it prudent to abandon this part of the country.
The French next turned their attention to the Missouri, which they ascended in 1705, to the mouth of the Kansas river, where they met with a welcome reception from the Indians. -- Their success in this quarter soon obliterated from their minds
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the reverses which they had experienced on the upper Mississippi.
In consequence of the wars in Europe, which demanded all the attention and resources of France, the colony of Louisiana was reduced to the most embarrassing situation. "The king, though obliged to withhold from it the usual supplies of men and money, was determined to keep it out of the hands of his enemies; and for this purpose, granted it to Crozat by letters patent, in 1712. The great wealth and credit of this gentleman, and the important services he had rendered to the crown, were sure pledges of his ability and exertions; and it was confidently expected, that he would prevent the extinction of the colony. -- Another motive still stronger led to the concession. The provincial authorities were hostile to each other, and it required some steady and energetic hand to heal the disorders among them. M. de la Motte, who was the first governor under the grant, arrived in 1713, and took possession of his government."
But Crozat was disappointed in his expectations with regard to the mineral resources of Louisiana; and although vast sums of money had been expended, there was no prospect of an immediate indemnity. Those who had left their native country to settle in the colony, finding that they had been deceived by false promises, became discontented. As agriculture, which would have ensured to them wealth and prosperity, was totally neglected, they did not raise even a sufficiency for their own consumption. Large sums were therefore necessary to purchase provisions, which, together with the other expenses of the colony, by far exceeded the profits of its trade. A trial of five years with like results, induced Crozat in 1717, to relinquish his patent to the king.
A short time after this relinquishment, the colony of Louisiana was granted by a patent, containing similar privileges and restrictions, to the Mississippi company, or company of the west, projected by the celebrated John Law. From the ability and enterprize of this company, the greatest expectations were
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formed, and the colony of Louisiana began to excite the attention of all the capitalists of the French metropolis. The fertility of its soil, and its vast mineral resources, presented prospects of uncommon gain, promised to fill the exhausted coffers of France, and yield princely fortunes to the numerous adventurers.
Soon after the company of the west had obtained their patent from the king, they formed an establishment at Fort Chartres, and in order to promote the objects of their institution, and to encourage the settlement of the country, held out the most liberal inducements to French emigrants, and made them donations of all lands which they should cultivate or improve. Miners and mechanics were also encouraged to emigrate, and the city of New Orleans, which had been founded during the last year of the authority of Crozat, (1717) received a considerable accession to its population in the fall of the same year, and the settlements began to extend along the banks of the Mississippi, and in the county of the Illinois.
"In the year 1719, the Sieur de Lochon having been sent out by the company in the quality of a founder, commenced digging on the Merrimack. He drew up a large quantity of ore, a pound whereof, which took up four days in melting, produced, according to his account, two drachans of silver; but his statement was generally disbelieved by the settlers. A few months afterwards he returned thither, and without thinking any thing more of the silver, he extracted from two or three thousand weight of ore, fourteen pounds of very bad lead, which stood him in fourteen hundred franks. Disgusted with a labour which was so unprofitable, he returned to France.
"The company, persuaded of the truth of the indications which had been given them, and that the incapacity of the founder had been the sole cause of their bad success, sent in his room a Spaniard, called Antonio, who had been taken at the siege of Pensacola, had afterwards been a galley-slave, and boasted much of his having wrought in a mine at Mexico. They gave him very considerable appointments, but he succeeded no better than had done the Sieur de Lochon. He was not discouraged himself, and others were inclined to believe he had failed, from
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his not being versed in the construction of furnaces. He gave over the search after lead, and undertook to make silver. He dug down to the rock, which was found to be eight or ten feet in thickness; several pieces of it were blown up and put into a crucible, from whence it is reported that he extracted three or four drams of silver.
"About this time arrived a company of the king's miners, under the direction of one La Renaudiere, who, resolving to begin with the lead mine, was able to do nothing, because neither he himself, nor any of his company, were in the least acquainted with the construction of furnaces. Nothing could be more surprising than the facility with which the company at that time exposed themselves to great expences, and the little precaution they took to be satisfied of the capacity of those they employed. La Renadiere and his miners, not being able to produce any lead, a private company undertook the mines of the Merrimack, and the Sieur Renault, one of the directors, superintended them with care."
"Renault was the son of a celebrated iron-founder in France, and came over to this colony as the agent of this company, which had been formed under the patronage of the company of the west, for prosecuting the mining business in the upper country of Louisiana and Illinois. He left France in 1719, with two hundred artificers and miners, provided with tools, and whatever else was necessary for carrying the objects of the company into effect. -- In his passage, he touched at the island of St. Domingo, and purchased five hundred slaves for working the mines; and entering the Mississippi, pursued his voyage up that river to New Orleans, which he reached some time in the year 1720, and soon afterwards proceeded on his way to Kaskaskia, in Illinois. Renault established himself in the vicinity of this town, near Fort Chartres, at a spot which he named St. Philip (now called the Little Village,) and from this place, sent out his mining and exploring parties into various sections of Illinois and Louisiana. These parties were either headed by himself, or M. La Motte, an agent versed in the knowledge of minerals, whom he had brought over with him. In one of the earliest of these excursions. La Motte
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discovered the lead mines on St. Francis, which bears his name; and at a subsequent period, Renault made a discovery of those extensive mines north of Potosi, which continue to be called after the discoverer. Other mines of lead were also found, but their distinctive appellations have not survived; and a proof of the diligence with which Renault prosecuted the object, is furnished by the number and extent of the old diggings which are now found in various parts of the country. These diggings are scattered over the whole mine district, and hardly a season passes, in which some antique works, overgrown with brush and trees, are not found.
"Renault being probably disappointed in the high expectations he had formed of finding gold and silver, turned his whole force to the smelting of lead, and there is reason to conclude, that very great quantities were made. It was conveyed from the interior on pack-horses, (the only mode of transportation which was practicable at that early period.) The lead made by Renault, was sent to New Orleans, and from thence chiefly shipped for France."
The colony of Louisiana suffered much from the war which broke out between France and Spain in 1719. Although the contest was chiefly confined to the posts on the gulf of Mexico, the upper settlements severely felt its injurious effects. Their commerce was interrupted, and the immense expenditures which were necessary to carry on the war, impoverished both the company and the colony. The war, however, was not long carried on in a systematic manner; but as these two nations had always been competitors for the Indian trade, and as continual disputes arose concerning the rights of territory, they kept up a predatory warfare for several years. In 1720, the Spaniards formed the design of destroying the nation of the Missouris, situated on the Missouri river, and of forming a settlement in their country. The object of this was to divert the current of the Indian trade, and to confine the settlements of the French to the borders of the Mississippi.
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The Spaniards believed, that in order to put their colony in safety, it was necessary they should entirely destroy the Missouris, who were the warm and constant friends of the French. But concluding that it would be impossible to subdue them with their own forces alone, they resolved to enter into an alliance with the Osages,The caravan set out in 1720; but being unacquainted vvith the country, and not having proper guides, they mistook their way. They wandered about for some time in the wilderness, and at length arrived at the Missouris, whom they supposed to be Osages. Under this impression, the conductor of the caravan, with his interpreter, immediately held a council with the chiefs. He explained to them the object of his visit, telling them that he had come to form an alliance with their tribe, in order to destroy their common enemies, the Missouris.
The great chief of the Missouris, concealing his thoughts upon this expedition, evinced the greatest joy. He shewed the Spaniards every possible attention, and promised to act in concert with them. For this purpose, he invited them to rest for a few days after their tiresome journey, till he had assembled his warriors, and held a council with the old men. The Spaniards acceded to this proposal; a council of war was held, and the result was, that they should entertain their guests, and affect the sincerest friendship for them.
They agreed to set out in three days. The Spanish captain immediately distributed several hundred muskets among them, with an equal number of pistols, sabres, and hatchets. But the very morning after this agreement, the Missouris came by break of day, and killed them all except the priest, whose singular dress convinced them that he was not a warrior. They kept him for some time among them, but he finally made his escape.
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The boldness of the Spaniards, in thus penetrating into a country of which they had no previous knowledge, made the French sensible of their danger, and warned them to provide against further encroachments. They suspected the intentions of the Spaniards, and determined to prevent, if possible, their being put into execution. Accordingly, they despatched a considerable force, which ascended the Missouri river, and took possession of an island some distance above the mouth of the Osage, upon which was built Fort Orleans.
On the arrival of this force, the different tribes in this vicinity were engaged in a sanguinary warfare, which diminished the trade, and rendered all intercourse extremely hazardous. Hence it became an object of importance to bring about a general peace. This was attempted with the desired success in 1724. Soon after this event, however, Fort Orleans was attacked and totally destroyed, when all the French were massacred; but it was never known by whom this bloody work was performed.
In consequence of a succession of such disastrous events, Louisiana was reduced to the most distressing situation. It not only suffered from the effects of war, but from famine and disease, which continually swept off numbers of its unfortunate inhabitants. The company also having been grossly disappointed in their expectations, and having already expended vast sums of money, were unable to render them any further assistance. -- Those who were concerned in it, and had thus foolishly lost their fortunes, made the most bitter complaints against the projector of a scheme, which they were now willing to give up as wild and visionary. This circumstance, together with the powerful enemies which Mr. Law had at court, not only completed his ruin, but entirely destroyed the credit of the company, so that in 1731, the charter was resigned to the crown.
Between this time and 1762, when the whole territory west of the Mississippi was ceded to Spain, few events transpired worthy of notice. Renault, however, of whom we have before spoken,
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remained in the colony, and continued working the lead mines until 1642, when he returned to France.It is proper to remark, that although the country included within the present limits of Missouri, excited the attention of the French in consequence of its mineral resources, their settlements were generally confined to the east bank of the Mississippi. -- When, however, by the treaty of 1763, the Mississippi became the boundary between the possessions of England and France, many of the French inhabitants, preferring their old to their new masters, crossed the river and commenced new settlements. For it should be recollected, that although the territory west of the Mississippi was ceded to Spain in 1762, the fact was not known to the colonists until two years afterwards.
The first permanent settlements in the state of Missouri, were made by the French of St. Philip and Kaskaskia, in the autumn of 1763, at St. Genevieve and New Bourbon. During the succeeding year, St. Louis was founded by a company of merchants, to whom M. D'Abbadie, the director general, had granted the exclusive right of commerce with the Indian nations residing on the Missouri. And for the encouragement of this settlement, the French officers were ordered to remove thither, upon surrendering Fort Chartres to the English In consequence of the advantageous situation of this place, and the lucrative trade which was carried on, it increased in population, and became the parent of a number of small villages in the vicinity.
Four years elapsed after the treaty of 1762, before any attempts were made on the part of Spain to take possession of her newly acquired territory. The inhabitants were so indignant that a transfer should have been made without their knowledge or consent, that they determined to resort to arms, in order to oppose the exercise of Spanish authority. They considered it as an insult to their feelings, and as an outrage against morality, which they were resolved not to submit to without a manly opposition. Nor were these determinations, although made in a moment of irritation, without their effect. The Spanish governor, who arrived in 1766, with a body of troops, to take possession of the colony, ill consequence of the excitement which it occasioned, was obliged to abandon his design, and return to the Havana.
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The government of this colony continued to be administered in the name of the French king, until the arrival of O'Reilly, the Spanish governor, in 1769, when it was peaceably transferred, the colonists having become reconciled to the change, from a conviction that it was inevitable. But O'Reilly, stimulated by malignity and revenge, determined to punish them for their past misconduct, so as to leave an impression of terror upon the minds of the inhabitants, and to secure their future obedience. Twelve of the principal men among them were selected as the victims of his resentment, and were consigned to a cruel and ignominious death. Several others, whom he supposed to be less guilty, were doomed to drag out their existence in the dungeons of Cuba. Although these outrages made a deep impression upon the minds of the people, the subsequent conduct of O'Reilly was very favourable to the interests of the colony; for he adopted a system of colonial government which ensured its prosperity, and which was preserved with little alteration by his successors.The country included within the present limits of Missouri, was not taken possession of by the Spaniards until 1770; and for the next ten years, few events transpired worthy of notice. In 1780, an expedition was fitted out by the British commander at Michillimacinac, in order to conquer the towns on the right bank of the Mississippi, in consequence of the part which the king of Spain had taken in favour of the independence of the United States. The expedition consisted of upwards of fifteen. hundred Indians and British, and was first directed against St. Louis; after the reduction of which, the conquest of the other towns and villages would have been attended with little difficulty. During the short time this siege lasted, upwards of sixty of the inhabitants were murdered, and thirty taken prisoners. Fortunately, however, General Clarke, with a considerable force, was on the opposite side of the river; and when he saw the danger to which the inhabitants were exposed from these cruel and merciless invaders, he crossed to the town, and took them by surprise. The British suddenly retired, and the Indians acknowledging that they had no hostile intentions against the
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Spaniards, but that they had been deceived by the British, soon afterwards dispersed and returned to their homes.During the same year, the first village was founded on the Missouri, named Village du Cote, and now St. Charles. In 1787, New Madrid, on the Mississippi, which had for a long time been a settlement of hunters and traders, was laid out under the direction of General Morgan, of New Jersey. Other settlements were gradually commenced in different places on these two rivers.
Missouri now began to assume a more favourable appearance, and numbers of emigrants were continually flocking in from the United States. This emigration was greatly encouraged, in consequence of the ordinance which had been passed, prohibiting slavery in what was then called the Northwestern territory. Large grants of land were also made by the Spanish government, to all those who should make actual settlements; and these lands were entirely exempted from taxation. The inhabitants now began to forget their idle notions of digging for gold and silver; and as hunting had become an unprofitable employment, they gradually turned their attention to the cultivation of the soil.
By the treaty of St. Ildefonso, made in 1800, Spain retroceded Louisiana to France, by whom, in 1803, it was ceded to the United States. When the territory of Orleans was erected into a state, the remaining part of this colony was attached to Indiana, until the year 1812, when it was formed into a distinct territory.
From the exposed situation of this territory, and the thinness of its population, it suffered severely from the effects of Indian and British hostility, a short time previous to, and during the late war. Tecumseh, that courageous and accomplished Indian warrior, had already visited Maiden, and had received presents and promises from the British agent. On his return, he endeavoured to engage all the Indian nations in a common cause against the Americans. But although Tecumseh gave the signal, by commencing warlike operations on the Wabash, the Indians on the Missouri continued for some time to give proofs of
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the most pacific intentions towards the United States. But large presents were continually made, and every argument was used to induce them to take up the tomahawk -- a fart which is clearly proved by the speech of a Sac chief"My father," said he, "I left my home to see my great grandfather, (the president of the United States); but as I cannot proceed on to see him, I give you my hand, as to himself. I have no father to whom I have paid any attention, but yourself. If you hear any thing. I hope you will let me know; and I will do the same. I have been advised several times to raise the tomahawk. Since the last war, we have looked upon the Americans as friends, and shall hold you fast by the hand. The Great Spirit has not put us on this earth to war with the whites; we have never struck a white man: if we go to war, it is with red flesh. Other nations sent belts among us, and urged us to go to war; they say, if we do not, in less than eight years the Americans will encroach on us, and drive us off our lands.
"Since General Wayne's campaign, the nations have often asked us to join in war with the white flesh; we have not listened to them: our rivers, our country have always been, and still are open to our friends the Americans. I have spoken to you as I should speak to the president of the United States; and as it is your desire that I shall not proceed to see him. I will cheerfully return to my nation again, and hope you will send my word to him."
With few exceptions, the Indians on the Missouri remained peaceable until the summer of 1811, when they committed some outrages in Boon's settlement, and on Salt river. Gen. Clarke, who commanded this department, made every exertion to detect the murderers; but as the American force was not yet organized, it proved unavailing. During the winter of 1811-12, murders became more frequent, and this territory began to suffer all the dreadful effects of Indian warfare. The Winnebagoes, determined to have revenge for their loss at Tippecanoe, continually displayed hostile intentions. From Fort Madison to St. Charles, men, women, and children were continually put
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to death, and their habitations consigned to the flames, by these unrelenting foes.Upon the receipt of this melancholy intelligence, Governor Howard sent orders to Col. Kibby, who commanded the militia of St. Charles, to call out a portion of the men, who had been in requisition to march at a moment's warning. An express was also sent to the officer commanding the regular forces of this district, and the governor himself immediately set out for St. Charles. On his arrival at this place, he organized a company of rangers, consisting of the most hardy woodsmen, who covered, by constant and rapid movements, the tract of country from Salt river to the Missouri, near the junction of the Loutre. He also established a small fort on the Mississippi, which was garrisoned by a body of regular troops detached from Belle Fontaine, under the command of Lieut. Mason. With these he was enabled, in a considerable degree, to afford protection to the exposed frontiers.
About the beginning of May, 1812, the chiefs of the Great and Little Osages, the Sacs, Reynards, Shawanees and Delawares, met in St. Louis, in order to accompany Gen. Clarke to Washington city; a plan which it was thought would have a happy effect. After their departure, few outrages were committed by the Indians for a considerable time; and although large parties of them continually lurked about Fort Mason, and the other posts on the Mississippi, such was the vigilance of the regulars and rangers then on duty, that they were generally frustrated in their designs. But Tecumseh, and his brother the prophet, were becoming more and more popular among the Indians; and so long as this was the case, no favourable termination of the contest could be expected. Many, it is true, were, as they always had been, opposed to his ambitious views; but the majority in his favour was so great, that these were obliged to submit.
On the 26th of June. (1812,) a council was held between the following nations of Indians, viz. the Winebagoes, Pottawatamies, Kickapoos. Shawanese, Miamies, Wild Oats (from Green Bay,) Sioux (from the river Des Moines,) Otto's, Sacs, Foxes and loways. The five first named were decidedly in favour of the prophet, some others refused any participation in the war
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with the United States; and the remainder were unwilling to give a decided answer, but rather encouraged the idea that they would unite with the hostile tribes. Thus through the influence of the prophet, many of the tribes who had uniformly been at peace with the Americans, now appeared in arms on the frontiers of the territory, and were only waiting for the removal of the rangers, to commence a dreadful slaughter.The effects of this alliance were soon manifested. On the 5th of September, (1812) Fort Bellevue on the Mississippi, was attacked by about 200 Winnebagoes. A constant firing was kept up on both sides until dark. Early the next morning the Indians renewed the attack, and shortly after burnt three boats, with their cargoes, consisting of provisions and stores. They now commenced throwing fire on a block house that stood near the river, but failed in their plan of consuming it. They continued the siege for several days, but were finally obliged to disperse, after having lost many of their men. On the part of the Americans, only one man was slightly wounded -- the loss of property, however, was very considerable. After this affair, no events of importance transpired during this or the succeeding year. Murders, however, were frequently committed in the vicinity of Portage des Sioux, St. Charles, and Fort Madison.
Early in the spring of 1814, Gov. Clarke was instructed by the war department to ascend the Mississippi, and establish a garrison at Prairie du Chien, which, for several years, had been the principal rendezvous of the Indians, and their allies, the British. Accordingly, he left St. Louis about the first of May, with five armed barges, and about 200 volunteers, under the command of Capts. Yeizer and Sullivan, and Lieut. Perkins. He reached the place of his destination without difficulty, all the Indians he met with being friendly, or at least not disposed to engage him. Col. Dickson, the British Indian agent at the Prairie, having received information of the approach of Gov. Clarke, had left that place about a month previous to his arrival, and proceeded to Mackinaw with a number of Indian recruits, for the British army on the lake. Capt. Drace, who was left in command with a small force, consisting chiefly of Mackinaw fencibles, made his escape immediately upon the arrival of the governor.
"The inhabitants of the village, mostly French people, also fled
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from their homes, but were induced to return. Lieut. Perkins, with sixty regulars, took possession of the house formerly occupied by the British Mackinaw company, and immediately began to build a fort about 200 yards from the bank of the river, which was called fort Shelby. As soon as this post was tolerably strengthened, Gov. Clarke returned to St. Louis, leaving Capts. Yeizer and Sullivan with a gun boat and an armed barge, and a crew of 100 men, to co-operate with Lieut. Perkins in maintaining it. Capt. Sullivan's company in the barge, and a part of the crew belonging to the sun boat were militia, who had engaged only for sixty days. When their time expired, they returned home in the barge, leaving about 100 men at the Prairie. No indications of hostility had yet appeared; but early in July, Lieut. Perkins was informed that preparations for an attack were in progress among the Indians."As soon as Gov. Clarke returned to St. Louis, Gen. Howard, who commanded this district, thought it advisable to send up a force to relieve the volunteers at Prairie du Chien, and thus preserve a post so important to the western country. Accordingly Lieut. Campbell, of the 1st reg. entrusted with the command of 42 regulars and 65 rangers, embarked in three keel boats, together with a fourth, belonging to the contractor and sutler.
The whole party, amounting to one hundred and thirty-three souls, readied Rock river, within 180 or 200 miles of the Prairie, without any accident. As soon as they entered the rapids, they were visited by hundreds of Sacs and Foxes, some of the latter hearing letters from the garrison above to St. Louis. The officers, not being acquainted with the arts of the Indians, imagined them to be friendly; and to this fatal security may be attributed the catastrophe which followed. The sutler's and contractor's boats had arrived near the head of the rapids and proceeded on, having on board the ammunition, with a sergeant's guard; the rangers in their boats followed, and had proceeded two miles in advance of the commander's barge. The latter having inclined to the fast side of the river in search of the main channel, was now drifted by the wind to the Ice-shore and grounded within a few yards of a high bank, covered with a thick growth of grass and willows.
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In this position, the commanding officer thought it advisable to remain until the wind abated. Sentries were stationed at proper intervals, and several of the men were engaged on shore, when the report of guns announced an attack. At the first fire, all the sentries were killed, and before those who were on shore could reach the barge, fifteen out of thirty were killed or wounded. At this time, the force and intentions of the Indians were fully developed. On each shore they were observed in quick motion, some in canoes, crossing to the battle ground; others running from above and below to the scene of attack. In a few minutes from 5 to 700 were assembled on the bank and among the willows, within a few yards of the bow and stern of the barge. They now gave the whoop, and commenced a tremendous fire -- the few surviving brave men in the barge cheered and returned the fire from their swivel and small arms. At this critical juncture, Lieuts. Rector and Riggs saw the smoke, and concluding that an attack had been made, dropped down. Riggs' boat stranded about 100 yards below Campbell's, and Rector to avoid a similar misfortune, and preserve himself from a raking fire, anchored above; both barges opened a brisk fire on the Indians, but as the latter were under cover, little execution was done.About an hour was spent in this unequal contest, when Campbell's barge was discovered to be on fire. to relieve which, Rector cut his cables, and fell to windward of him, and took out the survivors. Finding, however, that he was unable to assist Riggs, having a number of wounded on board, and being in danger of funning on a lee-shore, he determined on descending the river. The whole loss on the part of the Americans, amounted to 12 killed, and between 20 and 30 wounded.
On the 17th of July, the long expected enemy, consisting of about 1500 British and Indians, under the command of Col. M'Kay, appeared in view, marching from the Ouisconsin to the Prairie. Every possible exertion was made by the Americans to give them a warm reception. Capt. Yeizer had anchored the gun-boat in the river opposite to the fort. As soon as Col. M'Kay had arranged his force, and directed a small battery against the boat, he sent in a flag demanding a surrender of the garrison. Lieut. Perkins refused, and returned for answer that he was able and ready to defend the post committed to his charge.
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A general attack was now commenced upon the gun-boat from the battery, which was answered by a six pounder. The distance, however, was so great, that little effect was produced. -- The enemy now changed their situation, and crossed to an island, which is in front of the village, from which they were enabled to fire upon Yeizer, (who had also changed his position) with small arms, and screen themselves behind the trees, from the grape which was incessantly poured from the boat. In this manner the contest lasted for two hours, when, from the decided advantage of the enemy, Capt. Yeizer was induced to retreat down the river, which he effected under a heavy fire of musketry for several miles.After the departure of the gun-boat, the attack was continued by the enemy, but with little effect, as the Americans remained within the fort. The British now began to approach it by regular intrenchments, which they continued day and night, until they reached within 150 yards of the pickets. On the evening of the 19th, Lieut. Perkins being in want of ammunition and hospital stores, and being without a surgeon to dress the wounded, held a council with his officers. It was then determined, that as it was impossible to maintain the post, their most proper course was to surrender. Accordingly a flag was dispatched to the enemy, with their terms. Capt. G. Kennedy was the bearer, and on his entering into the British camp, he was immediately surrounded by a number of Indians; but was relieved from his perilous situation by three British officers, who ran to his protection. The terms of capitulation were immediately agreed on, and the fort was surrendered the next day, upon condition that the Americans should be protected from the savages -- that their private property should be respected -- and that they should be sent down to some American post, not to serve until regularly exchanged. Col. M'Kay found it necessary to place a strong guard over the prisoners, in order to prevent the savages from murdering them. He afterwards sent them on their way to St. Louis, under a strong escort, as far as Rock river; and although the Indians laid several plans to murder them on their passage, such was the vigilance of the guard, that not one of them suffered. This may be recorded as a rare instance
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of humane and honourable conduct on the part of the British during the late war in the west.Capt Yeizer, who had left Fort Shelby during the battle, on approaching the rapids, fell in with Lieut. Campbell, in the situation before mentioned. He arrived in time to save the contractor's boat from destruction. Having ascertained the fate of the other boats, he now proceeded down the river, and arrived at St. Louis soon after them. Thus terminated the expedition to Prairie du Chien, and with it, also, in a great measure, the war in Missouri.
In 1818, the people of this territory petitioned congress for authority to form a state government. A bill was accordingly introduced during the session of 1818-19, and contained among other provisions that of prohibiting slavery or involuntary servitude. It passed the house of representatives, but was rejected by the senate, and of course failed of success. The ensuing session the bill was again brought up, and after a succession of animated and interesting debates, continued through several weeks, a compromise or agreement was entered into by the advocates and opposers of the "restriction." The result of this was, that slavery should be tolerated in Missouri, but in no other part of Louisiana as ceded by France to the United States, north of 36° 30' of north latitude. Accordingly the people of this territory were authorised to form a constitution, under which, when approved by congress, Missouri should be admitted into the union on an equal tooting with the original states.
The convention being duly elected, met at St. Louis on the 12th of June, 1820, and formed a constitution, which was laid before congress early in the session of 1820-21. The constitution contained a provision, by which it was made the duty of the legislature to pass laws, "to prevent free negroes or mulattoes from coming into and settling in this state under any pretext whatsoever." This was considered by many of the members as a direct violation of the constitution of the United States, which they had sworn to support. Missouri, who had thus far contended for every inch of ground in her passage from a territorial to a state government, was now again the subject of harangue, of debate, and finally of compromise. The ‘restrictionists’ and ‘anti-restrictionists’ were again in hostile array, and the old
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contest was renewed and carried on with a spirit, which, in too many instances, bordered upon the must gross intemperance, After several months of time, and several thousands of dollars had been consumed, nay, squandered, the following resolution was passed by a majority of both houses of congress on the 2d of March, 1821, viz:"Resolved by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America, in Congress assembled, That Missouri shall be admitted into this union on an equal footing with the original states, in all respects whatever, upon the fundamental condition, that the fourth clause of the twenty-sixth section of the third article of the constitution submitted on the part of said state to congress, shall never be construed to authorise the passage of any law, and that no law shall be passed in conformity thereto, by which any citizen of either of the states in this union, shall be excluded from the enjoyment of any of the privileges and immunities to which such citizen is entitled under the constitution of the United States. Provided, That the legislature of the said state, by a solemn public act, shall declare the assent of the said state to the said fundamental condition, and shall transmit to the president of the United States, on or before the fourth Monday in November next, an authentic copy of the said act; upon the receipt whereof, the president, by proclamation, shall announce the fact; whereupon, and without any further proceeding on the part of congress, the admission of the said state into the union, shall be considered as complete."
On the 21st of June, 1821, the legislature of Missouri passed a solemn public act of assent to the fundamental provision contained in the above resolution, which was transmitted to the president of the United States, who, on the 10th of August, issued his proclamation, and gave Missouri her place in the union.
According to the census taken in September, 1821, it appears that Missouri contained at that time 70,647 inhabitants, 11,234 of whom were slaves. At present, it is divided into 28 counties, as follows:
Names of counties. No. of inhabitants. County seats.
Boone, 3692 Columbia.
Callaway, 1797 Elizabeth.
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Names of counties. No. of inhabitants. County seats.Cape Girardeau 7852 Jackson.
Chariton 1486 Chariton.
*Clay
Cole 1028 Howard's Bluff.
Cooper 3483 Boonville.
Franklin 1928 Newport.
Gasconade 1174 Gasconade.
Howard, 7321 Franklin.
Jefferson 1838 Herculaneum.
Lillard 1340 Mount Vernon.
Lincoln 1674 Alexandria.
Madison 1907 Fredericktown.
Montgomery 2032 Pinkney.
New Madrid 2444 Winchester.
Perry 1599 Perryville.
Pike 2677 Louisianaville.
Rails 1684 New London.
Ray 1789 Bluffton.
Saline 1176 Jefferson.
*Scott.
St. Charles 4058 St. Charles.
*St Francois
St. Genevieve 3181 St. Genevieve.
St. Louis 8190 St. Louis.
Washington 3741 Potosi.
Wayne 1614 Greenville.
The counties marked thus *, have been erected since the enumeration.
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GENERAL VIEW OF THE COUNTIES
IN THE
STATE OF MISSOURI,
ARRANGED IN ALPHABETICAL ORDER.
--------------
BOONE COUNTY.
Boone county was erected from Howard in 1820, and named in honour of Colonel Daniel Boone. It is bounded north by the county of Rails, east by Callaway, south by Cooper and Cole, and west by Howard. It is 36 miles in length, and 21 in breadth: area 576 square miles. It is watered by Cedar, Little Bonne-femme, and Roche Percee creeks. The surface is generally uneven, and towards the northern boundary somewhat hilly. The soil is for the most part fertile.
That part of Howard county which lies due north of Boone, and not attached to, or comprising a part of any other county, is attached to the latter for all legislative, judicial, and military purposes, until the same may be formed into a separate county.
This county has increased in population with uncommon rapidity, and it offers inducements equal, if not superior to any in the state. The attention of the inhabitants has lately been turned to the cultivation of tobacco and cotton; the former of which is found to be a sure and profitable crop: the success of the latter is as yet uncertain. The most considerable articles of export have been bacon, corn, hogs, and poultry; these will soon be followed by large quantities of flour and tobacco. As the Missouri river washes the southern part of the county, every facility for export is offered, and present appearances confirm the opinion that it will be amply improved.
Boone county contains 3692 inhabitants. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends three members to the house of assembly, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Columbia.
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Callaway county was erected in 1820, and named in honour of Capt. Callaway, who distinguished himself during the late war. It is bounded north by the county of Rails, east by Montgomery, south by Gasconade and Cole, and west by Boone. A portion of country lying north of, and which was formerly attached to Montgomery, is for the present attached to, and forms a part of Callaway, although not included in its boundaries.
Callaway county is nearly in the form of a parallelogram, 44 miles in length, and 28 in breadth: its area is about 1116 square miles. It is watered by Cedar creek, the Muddy's, and the sources of Loutre river, besides many other small streams emptying into the Missouri, which forms its southern boundary. The soil is generally of a good quality. The surface near the Missouri is level, but towards the northern part of the county it is broken and hilly, forming a part of the ridge which divides the waters of the Missouri from those of the Mississippi.
This county contains 1797 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of assembly, and with Gasconade and Franklin, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Elizabeth.
Cape Girardeau county is one of the oldest in the state. It is bounded north by Perry county, east by the state of Illinois and Scott county, south by Scott and New-Madrid, and west by Madison and Wayne. Its length is about 50 miles; breadth 38: area about 1300 square miles. The Mississippi washes the eastern boundary. Apple creek a part of the northern, and Castor creek a part of the western: the interior is watered by Crooked and White-water creeks.
The first house built in this county, was at the town of Cape Girardeau, in 1794, by a Frenchman. Since that period, settlements have been rapidly formed by emigrants from the United States; and it is generally believed that the lands are inferior to none in the state. Certain it is, that they are owned by rich and industrious farmers, who, among other articles, raise wheat, corn, tobacco, flax, hemp and cotton, and manufacture large
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quantities of maple sugar. They annually export considerable quantities of beef, pork, lard, smoked hams, and some poultry. Within a few years, also, tobacco has become a valuable article of export. The lands in the northern and middle part of the county are elevated, and well supplied with springs; in general free from stagnated waters and marshes. In the southern part, however, a large, swamp extends from the Mississippi to the St. Francis river, and is filled with cypress trees of no great value.Few of the settlers in this county have planted themselves on the Mississippi; but have generally preferred the country ten or twelve miles west. Here the lands are high and rolling; possess a luxuriant soil; are well covered with timber, and intersected by a variety of excellent streams and springs.
The increase of population in this county is almost unparalleled. In 1799, the district of Cape Girardeau contained 521 inhabitants; in 1803, 1206; in 1804, about 1500: in 1821, Cape Girardeau county, which is but a part of the old district, contained a population of 7852. It is attached to the fourth Judicial circuit; sends six members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Jackson.
Chariton county is situated in the northern part of the state; and is bounded north by the northern boundary of the state, east by the county of Rails, south by the counties of Howard, Cooper and Saline, and west by Ray. With the attached portion, it is 100 miles in length, and 48 in breadth, and contains an area of about 4700 square miles. A part of its southern boundary is washed by the Missouri river; the interior is watered by the two Charitons, and the tributaries of Grand river.
The lands in this county are generally elevated, possessing a fertile soil; well watered, but somewhat deficient in timber. The northern part is broken by the range of hills which divide the waters of the Missouri from those of the Mississippi. The Missouri bounty tract is situated in the southern part of the county. It is generally fertile, but contains very extensive prairies, which will materially affect its settlement. Coal, however, is very
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abundant, and will in a great measure supply the deficiency of timber.Chariton county was erected from Howard in 1820. It contains 1426 inhabitants, is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Clay, Ray and Lillard, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Chariton.
Clay county was erected from Ray in 1822. It is bounded north and west by the boundary lines of the state, east by the county of Ray, and south by Lillard. Its form is that of a parallelogram, about 100 miles in length, and 21 in breadth; containing an area of about 2000 square miles. The southern boundary is washed by the Missouri river; the interior is well watered by Fishing river, and several other small streams, running in a southerly and westerly direction. The lands are generally elevated, and in the northern part approaching to hilly. Of the fertility of this county, and the inducements which it offers to emigrants, I need not adduce a more convincing proof than the fact, that but two or three years since, it was a complete wilderness, without a single white inhabitant; while at present its population is not less than 1000. The country north and west is owned and inhabited by hordes of Indians.
Clay county is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Ray, Lillard and Chariton, one to the senate.
Cole county, situated in the interior of the state, was erected from Cooper in 1820. It is hounded north, east and south by the counties of Boone, Callaway and Gasconade, and west by Cooper. Its form is nearly that of a triangle, 48 miles in length, and 33 average breadth; containing an area of 756 square miles. It is washed on two sides by the Osage and Missouri rivers; in the interior it is abundantly watered by streams falling into them. The lands are generally elevated; the soil in many
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places is very inferior, and sometimes totally unfit for cultivation. On the Osage are a number of caverns, in which native salt-petre is found. Several powder mills have been already erected. -- Lead and iron ores are also very abundant.Cole contains 1028 inhabitants. It is attained to the first judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Saline and Cooper, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Howard's Bluff. The city of Jefferson, the permanent capital of the state, is also situated in this county.
Cooper county was separated from Howard in 1818, since which time it has been much diminished in size. At present it is bounded north by the counties of Chariton, Howard and Boone, east by Cole, south by Gasconade, and west by Saline. It is 84 miles in length, and 30 in breadth, and contains an area of about 2160 square miles. The Missouri river washes the northern, and the Osage the southern boundary; the interior is watered by La Mine river. Saline creek, and several other streams falling into the Missouri, and by several tributaries of the Osage.
This county is so extensive, that it contains almost every variety of soil and surface. On the Missouri the lands are generally low, sometimes approaching the river in the form of inundated alluvion, and sometimes a dry extensive prairie, occasionally intersected by high ridges. The southern part of the county is broken by the hills which divide the waters of the Osage from those of the Missouri. Here it presents in many places a sterile soil, destitute of every advantage, except that it contains iron and lead ore. There are several salt springs in the northern part of the county, and in the vicinity of some of them, works have been already established, which are a source of profit to the proprietors. In the spring and fall, the salt is sent down the Missouri to St. Charles, St. Louis, and the more southern towns, where it generally commands a good price and a ready sale.
Cooper county contains 3483 inhabitants. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends three members to the house of representatives, and with Saline and Cole, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Boonville.
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Franklin county was erected from St. Louis in 1818, and is bounded north by the counties of Montgomery and St. Charles, east by St. Louis, south by Jefferson and Washington, and west by Gasconade. It is 90 miles in length, and 32 in breadth, and contains an area of about 1584 square miles. The Missouri river washes the northern part of the county; the interior is watered by the Merrimack, St. John's, and Boeuf river, and several branches of the Gasconade. The lands are generally elevated; the surface broken, and sometimes hilly. On the banks of the Missouri, Merrimack, and the other streams, the soil is in many places fertile; but the upland is sandy and sterile. A range of silicious hills run through the southern and middle sections of the county. They abound with lead and iron ore, but are unfit for cultivation, and hence cannot support an agriculttural population. These hills are also badly timbered.
Franklin county contains 1928 inhabitants. It is attached to the third judicial circuit; sends two members to the house of representatives, and with Callaway and Gasconade, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Newport.
Gasconade county was erected from Franklin in 1820. Its boundaries are as follows: Beginning in the middle of the main channel of the Missouri river, opposite the termination of the sectional line which forms the middle line in range No. 4, west of the 5th principal meridian; thence south to said line, and along said line south to the corner in the township line of 41, north of the base line; thence west along the line of township 41, to the corner in the range line in range No. 8, west of the 5th principal meridian; thence north along said range line, to the Missouri river, and due north to the middle of the main channel thereof; thence down along the middle of the main channel of the Missouri river, to the beginning. All that portion of country south and west of these boundaries, and formerly included within the limits of Franklin county, is now attached to Gasconade. The form of the county is an oblong square, 34 miles in length, and 21 in breadth, with an area of about 504
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square miles. The attached portion is very extensive, but its precise limits are not yet known.
Gasconade county is washed on the north by the Missouri river; the interior is watered by the Gasconade, and its numerous tributaries, together with those of the Merrimack, Boeuf river, and several other smaller streams. The lands, like those of Franklin, are generally elevated, ‘rolling,’ and hilly. On the banks of some of the streams, the soil is fertile; but by far the largest portion of the county is rough, stony, and unfit for cultivation. It consists in many places of bald flint hills or knobs, entirely destitute of timber, but which are said to abound with lead and iron ore. On the Gasconade is a quantity of pine timber, which, from its scarcity in this section of the country, is peculiarly valuable. The yellow pine is predominant, although there is a portion of white. There are already six saw mills erected, which are kept continually employed. -- The lumber is sent down the Missouri and Mississippi. Another, and a very considerable source of wealth to this county, is the number of salt-petre caves, which are every where found on the Gasconade. Many of these are worked, The mineral is either sent down the river, or consumed in the manufactory of gunpowder, for which there are several mills. Some of the caves are very large and interesting, consisting frequently of a succession of rooms joined to each other by arched halls of a great height. The walls are uniformly of limestone, and often present the most beautiful appearance. On these, as well as the floors, the salt-petre is found deposited, and in most cases so pure, that it requires only one washing to render it fit for use or export.
When these caves were first discovered, it was not unusual to
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find in them Indian axes and hammers, which led to the belief that they had formerly been worked for some unknown purpose by the savages. It is difficult to decide whether these tools were left here by the present race, or by another and more civilized which preceded them. Although it is unusual for the savages of our day to take up their residence in caves, considering them the places to which the Manitou resorts -- although they are not acquainted with any of the uses of the salt-petre, and would rather avoid than collect it; the circumstance of finding these tools in the caves, would of itself, perhaps, furnish slight evidence that the country of the Gasconade was formerly settled by a race of men. who were acquainted with the uses of this mineral, or who exceeded them in civilization, or in the knowledge of the arts. But there are other facts connected with these, about which there can be no mistake. Near the saw-mills, and at a short distance from the road leading from them to St. Louis, are the ruins of an ancient town. It appears to have been regularly laid out, and the dimensions of the squares, streets, and some of the houses, can yet be discovered. Stone walls are found in different parts of the area, which are. frequently covered by huge heaps of earth. Again, a stone work exists, as I am informed by Gen. Ashley, about 10 miles below the mills. It is on the west side of the Gasconade, and is about 25 or 30 feet square; and although at present in a dilapidated condition, appears to have been originally built with an uncommon degree of regularity. It is situated on a high bald cliff, which commands a fine and an extensive view of the country on all sides. From this stone work is a small foot path running a devious course down the cliff to the entrance of a cave, in which was found a quantity of ashes. The mouth of the rave commands an easterly view.It would be useless at this time to hazard an opinion with regard to the uses of this work, or the beings who erected it. In connexion with those of a similar kind which exist on the Mississippi, it forms an interesting subject for speculation. They evidently form a distinct class of ancient works, of which I have as yet seen no description.
Gasconade county contains 1174 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit, sends one member to the house
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of representatives, and with Callaway and Franklin, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Gasconade.
Howard county was erected from St. Louis and St. Charles in 1818, and was then very extensive; but by successive subdivisions, it is now restricted to a much smaller area. Its present form is a rhomb, whose greatest length is 22 miles; greatest breadth 22; area about 470 square miles. It is bounded north by the county of Chariton, east by Boone, south by Cooper, and west by Cooper and Chariton. The southern boundary is washed by the Missouri; the interior is watered by Manitou. Bonne-femme, and other creeks running a southerly course, and emptying into it.
The face of the country is generally level, and the soil of the first quality. Ever since its discovery, no tract of country has been so highly esteemed as the "Boone's Lick." It was first settled by Col. Daniel Boone, so celebrated in the history of the western states. Its soil is fertile, and is watered by springs and streams, which afford the finest mill seats: it contains timber in abundance, and above all, is generally very healthy. -- In addition to these, salt is very abundant throughout every part of this county; and is already an article of export. Three of the springs have been selected by the commissioners appointed for that purpose for the use of the state.
The inhabitants of this county have, within a few years, turned their attention to the cultivation of tobacco, which thus far has exceeded their most sanguine expectations. A considerable quantity is now annually exported, and this quantity will be increased, in proportion to the demand. The establishment of inspections at the last session of the legislature, will have an important effect in raising the character of the Missouri tobacco, and will serve to stimulate the planter to greater exertions.
The exports of Howard are bacon, hams, salt, furs and peltries. It is thought by many, that cotton will soon be added to the list; but although success has attended its cultivation in several places on the Missouri river, it is extremely doubtful whether it will ever be of any consequence as an article of export. --
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A sufficiency will no doubt be raised for home consumption, but the uncertainty of the crop, arising from the seasons, will prevent it from competing in the least with that of the more southern states. The bottoms of the Missouri in this county are very rich and extensive, and many of them already contain a very dense population. The country for 40 or 50 miles north of this, may bear the character of rich woodland; the prairies forming but a trifling proportion.Howard county contains 7321 inhabitants. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends five members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Franklin.
Jefferson county was erected from St. Louis and St. Genevieve in 1818. It is bounded north by the county of St. Louis, east by the Mississippi river, south by the counties of St. Genevieve, St. Francois and Washington, and west by Washington and Franklin. Its greatest length is 33 miles; greatest breadth 28; area about 720 square miles. The eastern boundary is washed by the Mississippi, and a part of the northern by the Merrimack: the interior is watered by Grand river and its branches, and by several small streams running east into the Mississippi.
The banks of the Mississippi in this county, are in many places high and rocky. Some of them have an elevation of two or three hundred feet, and are so disposed as, on a distant view, to exhibit the appearance of artificial towers. They are solid masses of limestone, deposited in horizontal strata. In the northern and eastern parts of the county, the surface is generally level; in the western it is rough and hilly. A prolific soil characterizes the former; whereas the latter is comparatively sterile. The principal farming districts, are on the banks of the Platten, Joachim and Sandy creeks, The southern shores of the Merrimack, and the eastern banks of Big river, also afford good land.
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It has also been found in several places on the banks of Platten and Joachim creeks. Iron ore is found in Big river township, and on the Platten and Sandy creeks. Salt was formerly made at the works on the Merrimack. The water is represented to be strong, but the works have been suffered to lie idle, in consequence, it is understood, of a dispute respecting the land title.From the number of fine mill streams, and the many advantageous situations which are every where presented, there is no doubt this is destined to become a great manufacturing county. It already contains several grist mills, shot manufactories and distilleries.
Jefferson county contains 1838 inhabitants. It is attached to the third judicial circuit; sends two members to the house of representatives, and with Washington, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Herculaneum.
Lillard county was erected from Cooper in 1820. It is situated in the western part of the state, and is included within the following boundaries: Beginning at a point in the middle of the main channel of the Missouri river, opposite the range line, between ranges 23 and 24, thence with said line to the termination thereof; thence due south to the middle of the main channel of the Osage river; thence up said river in the middle of the main channel thereof, to the western boundary line of the state; thence north with the said boundary line, to the middle of the main channel of the Missouri river; thence down the said river in the middle of the main channel thereof, to the place of beginning. This county is at present very extensive, its greatest
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length being upwards of 100 miles, and its breadth about 60. Its form is an irregular oblong, whose area may be about 6500 square miles. The northern boundary is washed by the Missouri river; the interior is watered by the sources of La Mine river, Talbot creek, Chenel-ebert, Blue-water river, and many other streams running north, and emptying into the Missouri. The southern part of the county is watered by the Osage river, and numerous tributaries.Lillard county contains a large proportion of first rate farming land, particularly on the banks of the Missouri; there are also some districts of good land on Talbot and Chenel-ebert. In the interior the prairies are frequently very extensive, and towards the southern section it is broken by the hills dividing the waters of the Osage from those of the Missouri.
The first settlements were made in this county in 1817: at present it contains 1340 inhabitants. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Clay, Ray and Chariton, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Mount Vernon.
Lincoln county was erected from St. Charles in 1818. Its form is nearly a square, and its area is about 575 square miles. It is bounded north by the county of Pike, east by the state of Illinois, south by the counties of St. Charles and Montgomery, and west by Montgomery and Pike. The eastern boundary is washed by the Mississippi river; the interior is watered by Riviere an Cuivre and its tributaries, and by several other streams running east.
This county contains a considerable proportion of good land: the soil is generally fertile, and the surface level. There exists a fine proportion of prairie and timbered land. It contains a population of 1674; is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Montgomery, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Alexandria.
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Madison county was erected from the counties of St. Genevieve and Cape Girardeau in 1818, but has since been much reduced in its size. It is situated in what is called the "Mine country," and is bounded north by the county of St. Francois, east by Perry and Cape Girardeau, south by Wayne, and west by Washington. Its form is an irregular oblong, whose greatest length is 36 miles; greatest breadth 28: area about 900 square miles.
This county is watered by Castor creek, the St. Francis, and Black river; the latter forming a part of its western boundary. Like other parts of the mine tract, of which Madison forms the southern limit, the soil is rarely first rate; and the surface is generally broken and hilly. The principal district of good farming land lies along Village creek, and the eastern shore of the St. Francis, which runs nearly north and south.
Madison county contains 1907 inhabitants. It is attached to the fourth judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Wayne, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Fredericktown.
Montgomery county was erected from St. Charles in 1818. Its form is irregular; its greatest length is 36 miles; greatest breadth 30; area about 900 square miles. Bounded north by the counties of Lincoln, Pike and Rails, east by St. Charles, south by Franklin and Gasconade, and west by Callaway.
This county is washed on the south by the Missouri river; the interior is abundantly watered by Loutre river, Lost and Chavette
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creeks, and by several small streams, running a north course, and emptying into the Cuivre river. The lands on the Missouri are generally level and very fertile; the interior is traversed by the range of hills, dividing the waters of the Missouri from those of the Mississippi, on which there are but rarely districts of good farming land.The climate and productions of this county are similar to all those bordering on the Missouri: like them, it possesses immense agricultural resources; and the never failing stream which sweeps along its southern boundary, affords the inhabitants every facility for exporting their surplus produce.
Montgomery county contains 2032 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial district; sends two members to the house of representatives, and with Lincoln, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Pinkney.
New Madrid county is the most southern in the state, and was erected at an early period. Originally, it was very extensive, but by subsequent subdivisions, its limits have been much reduced. At present, its greatest length is 60 miles; greatest breadth 46; area about 3500 square miles. It is bounded north by the counties of Scott and Cape Girardeau, east by the state of Kentucky, south by the territory of Arkansas and Wayne county.
The eastern boundary of New Madrid is washed by the Mississippi, and the western by the St. Francois. The interior is watered by numerous small streams, running east and west into these rivers. It is, however, worthy of remark, that no considerable stream empties into the Mississippi on the west side from the Merrimack to the St. Francois, a distance of several hundred miles. The lands in this county are generally flat in many places, abounding with ponds and marshes, which are periodically inundated. These marshes, filled with cypress, are mostly dry in summer; and unless they be drained at great expense, or banks be constructed to keep the water from them, they will never be of any service to agriculturalists, other than as ranges for cattle. Many creeks or bayous take their rise in them, and flow
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into the Mississippi and St. Francois; and it is calculated that there are as many as one to every fifteen miles. The swamps are generally in a central position between the two rivers; and frequently communicate with both by forming creeks or bayous, which are navigable during freshets. The lands on the banks of the rivers, and other streams, are much more elevated than the intermediate traits; they are seldom overflowed, and present a thrifty growth of large trees. Prairies abound in the interior, as also some large tracts of upland, calculated for rich and extensive plantations.The lands are mostly what are called bottoms or intervals, and are composed of a deep rich mould, calculated for most kinds of grain, cotton, tobacco, flax and hemp. The more elevated grounds yield 30 bushels of wheat, and 80 of corn, to the acre. Some of the bottoms are covered with a thick growth of trees, to which large droves of cattle resort in the winter season.
The first settlement was made here in 1787, by Col. Morgan, of New Jersey, who laid out the town of New Madrid. It had, however, for a long time previous been the rendezvous of hunters and traders. After building a small number of houses, the inhabitants became very sickly, and no farther progress was made in the settlement. Morgan, in consequence of some obstacles to his designs, created by the Spanish government, abandoned his pursuits and left the country.
The climate of this county is so mild, that the culture of cotton and tobacco is attended with every success. Its sickliness, however, has prevented it from being settled so rapidly as other sections of the state. Whether this will materially retard its prosperity, or whether by continued, although partial cultivation, it will become healthy, is a question which time alone can decide. At present, it must be acknowledged, that it is more unhealthy than any other part of the state; but from its situation, a stranger would be inclined to believe that it was
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more subject to dangerous diseases than it really is. The miasmata from the swamps no doubt poison the air, and pruduce intermittents and bilious fevers, although they are seldom very malignant. Indeed, the sick have suffered more from the want of medicine, than from the obstinate nature of the diseases.New Madrid county, previous to its late subdivision, contained 2443 inhabitants. At present it contains about 1500. It is attached to the fourth judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Scott, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Winchester.
Perry county was erected from St. Genevieve in 1820, and is bounded north by that county, east by the Mississippi river, south by Cape Girardeau, and west by Madison, St. Francois and St. Genevieve. Its greatest length is 33 miles, greatest breadth 20; area about 430 square miles.
This county is washed by the Mississippi river on the east; the interior is watered by Apple and Saline creeks, and other streams falling into the Mississippi. The face of the country is generally uneven, and the soil is second rate. The most valuable district of farming land is Bois-brule bottom, which extends along the margin of the Mississippi, about 20 miles. It is about 3 miles in width, and is covered in many places with a heavy growth of trees, such as are peculiar to the most fertile alluvions. The settlements on it are already very considerable, and are daily increasing. In the interior, the soil is frequently sterile, and unfit for cultivation. It contains lead and iron, but no mines have as yet been opened.
Perry county contains 1599 inhabitants. It is attached to the fourth judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with St. Genevieve and St. Francois, one to the senate. Its county seat is Perryville.
Pike county was erected from St. Charles in 1818, and named in honour of Gen. Z. M. Pike. It was formerly very extensive,
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but has been much reduced by recent subdivisions. At present, its greatest length is 36 miles; greatest breadth 30; area about 680 square miles. It is bounded north and west by the county of Rails, cast by the state of Illinois, south by the counties of Lincoln and Montgomery.This county is washed on the east by the Mississippi river; the interior is watered by Salt river and its tributaries, and by the head waters of Cuivre river, and several smaller streams. -- The largest bodies of farming land are on Salt river, and along the bank of the Mississippi. The bottoms are not exceeded by any in the state for the fertility of their soil. Towards the western part of the county, the surface is undulating, and in some places hilly, although the soil is of a good quality. Salt springs are found in great abundance, and have been profitably worked ever since the first settlement. Small quantities of lead have also been found, but it is doubtful whether it is very abundant.
In this county, are several singular and interesting ancient works, which are similar in some respects, to those on the Gasconade. They are situated on Noner creek, and will be described under that article.
Pike county contains 2677 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends two members to the house of representatives, and with Rails one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Louisianaville.
Rails county was erected from Pike in 1830, and is very extensive. Its form is an irregular oblong, 93 miles in length with a medium width of 50 miles; area about 4600 square miles. It is bounded north by the northern boundary of the state, east by Illinois, south by the counties of Pike, Montgomery, Callaway and Boone, and west by Chariton.
This county is washed on the east by the Riviere des Moines and Mississippi; the interior is abundantly watered by Salt river and its tributaries, by the Two rivers, the Fabbaland Waconda creeks, and a number of smaller streams. On the banks of the Mississippi and Salt river, are several extensive and fertile bottoms, which are frequently covered with a heavy growth of
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timber, and afford every inducement to the agriculturalist. -- There are several small districts of good farming land on Two Rivers, and the other streams north. The interior of the county is uneven, and occasionally hilly, being crossed by the range dividing the waters of the Missouri from those of the Mississippi. This county abounds with lead and iron ore.Ralls contains 1684 inhabitants. It is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Pike, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is New London.
Ray county was erected from Howard in 1820, and is bounded north by the northern boundary of the state, east by the county of Chariton, south by Saline and Lillard, and west by Clay. Its form is an oblong, 100 miles in length, and 48 in breadth: area about 4800 square miles. The southern boundary is washed by the Missouri river; the interior is abundantly watered by Grand river and its tributaries. Fishing river, and numerous other streams emptying into the Missouri. The principal districts of farming lands are on the banks of Grand and Fishing river. Frequently, however, rich bottoms occur on the, Missouri, and the smaller streams emptying into it between these. The principal objection to the interior is the want of timber. The prairies, although generally fertile, are so very extensive, that they must for a great length of time, and perhaps forever, remain wild and uncultivated; yet such is the enterprise of the American citizens -- such the emigration to the west, that it almost amounts to presumption to hazard an opinion on the subject. Perhaps before the expiration of ten years, instead of being bleak and desolate, they may have been converted into immense grazing fields, covered with herds of cattle. It is not possible, however, that the interior of these prairies can be inhabited; for, setting aside the difficulty of obtaining timber, it is on other accounts unpleasant and uncomfortable. In winter the northern and western blasts are excessively cold, and the snow is drifted like hills and mountains, so as to render it impossible to cross from one side of a prairie to the other. In summer, on the contrary,
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the sun acting upon such an extensive surface, and the southerly winds which uniformly prevail during this season, produce a degree of heat almost insupportable.It should not, by any means, be understood that these objections apply to all the prairies. The smaller ones are not subject to these inconveniences; on the contrary, they are by far the most desirable and pleasant situations for settlement. There are of this description in the county of which we are treating; surrounded by forests, and containing here and there groves of the finest timber, watered by beautiful running streams, presenting an elevated, rolling or undulating surface, and a soil rarely equalled in fertility.
This county is in many respects favourably situated. Grand river, which passes through it, is navigable for some distance; and together with the Missouri, affords every advantage for commerce. Very little, however, is as yet raised for export. Its productions will be similar to those of the lower counties.
Ray county contains 1789 inhabitants. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Clay, Lillard and Chariton, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Bluffton.
Saline county was erected from Cooper in 1820, and is bounded north by the counties of Chariton and Ray, east by Cooper, south by the territory attached to Gasconade, and west by Lillard county. Its form is an irregular oblong: its greatest length is 100 miles; greatest breadth 30 miles: area about 1800 square miles. The northern boundary is washed by the Missouri river; the interior is watered by La Mine river. Salt fork, and several large tributaries of the Osage.
This county contains a considerable proportion of good farming land. The banks of the Missouri are beautifully interspersed with alluvion and upland, which are alternately timbered and prairie. In the interior, there are several bodies of good land on La Mine river and Salt fork. The southern part of the county is rough, broken, and sometimes hilly. In many places the prairies are very extensive, and almost unfit for cultivation.
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Salt is very abundant in this county, and also iron ore. Lead has not been found in any considerable quantity.Saline county contains 1176 inhabitants. It is attached to the first judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Cooper and Cole, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Jefferson.
Scott county was erected from New Madrid in 1822. Its form is somewhat triangular: greatest length 45 miles: greatest breadth 40: area about 800 square miles. It is bounded north by the county of Cape Girardeau, east by the state of Illinois, south and west by the county of New Madrid. The eastern boundary is washed by the Mississippi; the interior is watered by White-water creek, and several small streams running east and west into the Mississippi and St. Francis rivers.
The lands in this county are very similar in their character to those of New Madrid. They are generally champaign and fertile. Tywapaty bottom, an extensive tract situated on the Mississippi above the mouth of the Ohio, is celebrated for its fertility. It produces a thick growth of timber, and many of the trees are of extraordinary size. Part of this bottom, which is about 20 miles long, and from three to six broad, produces an immense quantity of rushes. These grow to the height of about eight feet: they are large, and stand so thick that it is difficult for a man to make his way among them. Large droves of cattle resort here in winter, and fatten on them.
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As this county has been erected since the last census, its precise population is not known; it may, however, be about 1000. It sends one member to the house of representatives, and with New Madrid, one to the senate.
St. Charles county is one of the most ancient in the state, and was originally very extensive, but has been greatly reduced by recent divisions. Its form is very irregular: its greatest length is 40 miles; greatest breadth 24: area about 500 square miles. It is bounded north by Lincoln county and the state of Illinois, east by the state of Illinois and the county of St. Louis, south by St. Louis and Franklin, and west by Montgomery. The northern and southern boundaries are washed by the Mississippi and Missouri; the interior is watered by Perrique, Dardenne, and Femme Osage creeks, and several small branches of Cuivre river.
This county contains a large proportion of rich land, capable of supporting a very dense population. On the banks of the Mississippi, a prairie extends from the mouth of the Missouri 50 or 60 miles north, being from three to ten miles in width. This presents one uninterrupted extent of level rich land, intersected here and there by a small creek or rivulet, bordered by a few scattering trees. The bottoms on the Missouri are generally heavily timbered, and very fertile. After leaving these bottoms, the lands become high and undulating, although not hilly; the soil is deep and strong, and there is no want of timber, or good wholesome water. The American settlers have generally preferred these situations, and have left the French undisturbed in their settlements at Portage des Sioux and Marais Croche, which are on the prairie bottoms.
This county, situated as it is at the junction of three large streams, combines numerous advantages, which point it out as a most eligible part of the country for farmers. Exclusive of the large streams, as has been already observed, it is intersected by a variety of smaller ones, some of them affording an inland navigation of several miles, and most of them calculated for mills and other water works.
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The lands in what is called the "Forks of the Missouri," are generally level. Ten miles above the mouth of the Missouri, the Mississippi and the former stream approach each other within 466 rods, a short distance below Portage des Sioux. From this to St. Charles, a distance of about 12 miles, is one extended prairie, leaving a strip of timbered land on the river from a mile to a mile and a half in width On the Mississippi, a narrow strip of timber extends to the mouth of the Illinois.The Mameiles, so called by the French from their resemblance to human breasts, are the points where the bluffs of the Missouri and Mississippi terminate. They are situated three miles below St. Charles, six from the Mississippi, and one from the Missouri river, and are upwards of 100 feet in height. Standing on these, and casting the eye to the north and east, an extensive prairie is presented to the view, variegated only by two or three small groves of timber. From this eminence, the whole has the appearance of a perfectly level plain; but in travelling over it, we discover some undulations in the surface.
Above the river Dardenne, the banks of which are low and subject to inundation, the lands become elevated and undulating. The range of hills dividing the waters of the Missouri from those of the Mississippi, extend through the northwestern part of the county. This contains a few districts of good fanning land, but in general the soil is second rate.
Unfortunately for this county, the lands at the junction of the Illinois and Missouri with the Mississippi, like those at the junction of the Ohio, are low and unhealthy; and in consequence of their annual inundations, are rendered entirely unfit for town sites. When, however, this county increases in population and wealth, and when the northern and western parts of the state become more thickly settled, works of art will be accomplished to remedy this detect. The situation of the village of Portage des Sioux is elevated, and although there are a number of ponds in the vicinity, these could be drained with a trifling expense. At this place the Mississippi and Missouri approach within half a mile, and a canal to unite them would be but the labour of a few months, and an expense of a few thousand dollars. By looking at the map, it will readily be perceived what immense advantages will result from such a measure. Besides cutting off
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a distance of more than twenty miles, in which the navigation is both difficult and dangerous, it would open a commercial emporium, possessing all the advantages of being situated directly at the junction of the Missouri and Mississippi.The productions of St. Charles are similar to those of the other counties on the Missouri. As it contains few minerals, it must depend principally upon its agricultural resources for its wealth and prosperity. At some future period, perhaps it may become a considerable manufacturing county. A society has recently been formed for the encouragement of agriculture and manufactures, which will no doubt prove eminently useful. An annual exhibition and fair is to be held, and premiums are to be given to the most meritorious.
Lead ore has been found in small quantities in the vicinity of the town of St. Charles, but it is still doubtful whether it exists in any quantity. Gypsum, of a very good quality, has been found on the banks of Femme Osage. There are also several isolated sandstone rocks which are remarkable for their purity, being so white as to resemble, the purest lump sugar. They would furnish an excellent material for the manufacture of glass.
The first settlements in this county were commenced by the French at the town of St. Charles, in 1780. In 1787, the district, which comprised nil the territory north of the Missouri, contained, 895 inhabitants. In 1804, its population was estimated at about 1400 whites, and 156 blacks. At the last enumeration in 1821, the county of St. Charles, which is but a small portion of the original district, contained 4058, including blacks.
St. Charles county is attached to the second judicial circuit; sends three members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is St. Charles, the present capital of the state.
St. Francois county was erected in 1822, from St. Genevieve, Jefferson and Washington. Ifs form is very irregular: its greatest length is 39 miles, greatest breadth 28; area about
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400 square miles. It is bounded north by Jefferson, east by St. Genevieve, south by Madison, and west by Washington. The interior of the county is watered by Big river and its tributaries, and by the sources of Castor creek, and the St. Francis river.St. Francois county is situated in the centre of the mine tract, and abounds with lead and iron ore. The surface is generally uneven, sometimes hilly; the soil is for the most part second rate. The principal farming tracts are in the vicinity of Murphy's and Cook's settlements, both of which are situated along the main road leading from St. Louis to the Arkansas.
This county having been erected since the last enumeration, the number of its inhabitants is not known, It is attached to the third judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with St. Genevieve and Perry, one to the senate.
St. Genevieve County, one of the most ancient in the state, was originally very extensive, but, by recent subdivisions, has been reduced to a small size. At present its greatest length is 27 miles; greatest breadth 21: area about 340 square miles. It is bounded north by Jefferson county, cast by the state of Illinois and Perry county, south and west by St. Francois. The eastern boundary is washed by the Mississippi; the interior is watered by Saline and Gabourie creeks, and several brandies of Big river.
The banks of the Mississippi in this county are generally high, in some places presenting a perpendicular wall of rock, in others approaching the river in the form of hillocks. There are, however, a few extensive bottoms, the soil of which is very prolific. That on the Mississippi between St. Genevieve and New Bourbon, and claimed as the property of these villages, is under good cultivation; it is, however, flooded once in about 10 or 13 years. The high grounds for several miles back are more or less cultivated; but they are in many instances broken, sterile, and less productive than the lands of some of the other counties. These defects, however, are more than counterbalanced by the great quantities of lead which are found in various quarters, and
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the salines, which yield a sufficient quantity of salt fop the consumption of the inhabitants, and some for exportation.We, have before observed, that the mineral productions of this county are lead and salt. "The latter," says Mr. Schoolcraft, "is made on Saline creek, a stream which fills into the Mississippi eight miles below the great fields of St. Genevieve. The works are at a village called Madansburgh, and are on a respectable scale; and much of the salt consumed in the interior is the produce of these works. The springs are considered lasting, and the water strongly impregnated; and preparations are now in forwardness to enlarge and improve the works."
This author further observes, that "There is a large body of silicious sand in the interior of this counts, and which, from examination, I think adapted for the manufacture of flint glass. It lies eight miles on the road to Potosi, where it is found in a cave of unexplored extent. The sand is in the aggregated form, i. e. sandstone; is very white, easily crushed between the fingers, and falls into a very fine, even grained, transparent, quartzose sand. It appears to me, from its external character, to possess the property of easy fusibility, one of the most desirable qualifications in glass sand; and from an acquaintance with the subject, I am led to conclude that it will prove a very valuable, material in the manufacture."
The agricultural products of this county are similar to those by which it is bounded. Tobacco flourishes well, and considerable quantities are annually exported. Wheat, rye, corn, and all other grains, yield abundantly, and afford a considerable surplus for exportation.
Hemp, although it is said to be an exotic here appears to be completely indigenous. It grows to the height of 8 or 10 feet, and is said to be equal in quality to that of the north of Europe; it covers the fields of the farmers in spite of their efforts to destroy it. About 1500 weight may be obtained from the acre.
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until 1787, when an act was passed by congress prohibiting slavery or involuntary servitude, in what was then denominated the northwestern territory. The slave-holders were disposed to preserve this kind of property, and in order to do so, abandoned their ancient possessions, and removed to the west side of the Mississippi. Many of them settled at St. Genevieve, and New Bourbon; others, attracted by the mineral riches, took up their abode in the interior, and commenced the working of lead. In 1790, the number of inhabitants in the whole district of St. Genevieve, was about 1600, including blacks. Previous to the erection of St. Francois, St. Genevieve county, which is but a small part of the original district, contained 3181 inhabitants, of which 717 were slaves.This county is attached to the fourth judicial district; sends two members to the house of representatives, and with Perry and St. Francois, one to the senate. Its county seat is St. Genevieve.
St. Louis county, like the last, is one of the most ancient in the state. It was formerly the district of St. Louis, and was very extensive; by recent divisions, however, it has been very much reduced in its size. At present, its greatest length is 28 miles; greatest breadth 26; area about 500 square miles. It is bounded north by the county of St. Charles, east by the St. of Illinois, south by the county of Jefferson, and west by Franklin.
This county is washed on three sides by the Missouri, Mississippi and Merrimack rivers; the interior is abundantly watered by the brandies of these streams, running northwardly, eastwardly and southwardly. The lands bordering on the rivers are generally very fertile, and are variegated with prairie and woodland. From the Merrimack to the town of St. Louis, the banks of the Mississippi are in many places, high and rocky, although the interior soon becomes level, and presents a very fertile soil. A short distance above St. Louis, commences an alluvion, which continues north as far as the mouth of the Missouri. This is low and subject to inundation, and does not, in its whole extent, afford one good town site. It is from a half to one and a half mile in width, and is covered with a thick growth of timber. This bottom continues on the Missouri to Belle Fontaine,
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four miles above its mouth. Above Belle Fontaine, on the Missouri, the surface becomes elevated and undulating, and the soil in many places equal in fertility to any in the state. On the Merrimack river are also some considerable tracts of good land, upon which extensive settlements have already been formed.
After ascending from the river bottoms, we enter a district of country somewhat different in its character and appearance. It is generally prairie, whose surface is elevated, undulating, and occasionally hilly: soil second rate. Of this description, are the lands West of St. Louis, after leaving the rich bottoms of the Riviere des peres. The most remarkable appearance of this prairie land, is the number of funnels or "sink holes," which, although not peculiar to this county, are perhaps more numerous here than elsewhere. These are all of the same form, but differ in magnitude, some not being more than 30 yards in diameter at the top; others exceeding 200. They are circular, but diminish towards the bottom, and resemble an inverted hollow cone; some of the large ones are so deep, that tall trees, growing at the bottom, cannot be seen until we approach the brink of the cavity. In many of these, the sound of water, as of a considerable stream running below the bottom of the cavity, can be distinctly heard. In others, a subterranean stream is visible, and affords evidence, that it has caused the cavity by carrying away the incumbent earth, which has fallen in from time to time.
Numerous ancient works are found scattered over this county. Near the town of St. Louis, is a groupe of mounds, some of which are very large and regularly formed. On the Merrimack, near the town of Fenton, are the remains of a fort, with several mounds in the vicinity, upon which are scattered, fragments of potter's ware, heads of spears, axes and arrows, made of flint and hornstone. At this place also is an ancient burying ground, and the diminutive size of the graves, and the skeletons
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found in them, induced a belief that the country of the Merrimack had been originally inhabited by a race of pigmies. But it is hardly necessary to resort to this theory in order to explain the phenomena which are here presented.The productions of this county are similar to those by which it is bounded. All the grains flourish here, and such has hitherto been the demand at St. Louis, in consequence of the current of emigration, that very little has as yet been exported. In the settlement of St. Ferdinand, wine of a good quality is made from the native grape; and should this subject claim the attention of agriculturalists, it would no doubt be a source of profit. -- The ease with which the vine is cultivated, and the ready and profitable sale of the juice, are inducements not to be overlooked. It would be a subject of congratulation if the use of this wholesome beverage could be introduced, in the place of distilled liquors.
Iron ore is abundant in the western part of the county; lead has also been found in small quantities. Potter's clay is abundant on the Riviere des Peres, five miles west of St. Louis, and a pottery has already been established. Saw and grist mills, and distilleries, some of which are very extensive, have been erected in every part of the county. The first settlement in this county was made at the town of St Louis, in 1764, by a company of traders. In 1799, the settlements of St. Louis, Carondalet, St. Ferdinand and Marais des Liards, contained about 1800 inhabitants. According to Maj. Stoddard, the population of the district of St. Louis in 1800, was 2780, including blacks. This district extended along the Mississippi, from the Merrimack to the Missouri, and as far west as the boundary of the state. In 1810, it contained 5667 inhabitants, and in 1821, the county of St. Louis alone contained 8190.
This county is attached to the third judicial circuit; sends six members to the house of representatives, and one to the senate. Its seat of justice is St. Louis.
Washington county was erected at an early period, and although much reduced in its size, is still quite extensive. Its
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greatest length is 55 miles; greatest breadth 56; area about 1440 square miles. Bounded north by the counties of Franklin and Jefferson, east by St. Francois and Madison, south by Wayne, and west by Franklin. It is abundantly watered by Big river and its tributaries, and by several smaller branches of the Merrimack. St. Francois and Black rivers.The lands in this county are elevated, undulating and hilly. They abound in minerals, and are much less fertile than many other parts of the state. In some places, bald hills appear, consisting of flint rocks, which are perfectly sterile. There are, however, several fine tracts of farming land, among which may be mentioned Bellevue, Stouts, Richwood's settlements, and the Old mines. The southern banks of the Merrimack, Big river, and Fourche a Courtois, also afford handsome tracts of the most fertile bottom lands. Lead ore is found in different parts of this county, four or five feet below the surface, in an alluvial deposit of stiff red clay, which is often marly, and contains numerous detached masses of quartz, called by the inhabitants mineral blossom. This alluvion, which varies from 10 to 20 feet in depth, rests on limestone, which appears to belong to the transition class. The iron ore at Bellevue is in very large quantities, and is said not to be surpassed in richness by any in the United States. "The most noted place," observes Mr. Schoolcraft, "is called the Iron Mountain, where the ore is piled in such enormous masses, as to constitute the entire southern extremity of a lofty ridge, which is 5 or 600 feet above the plain. Immediately at its base, commences a tract of the richest bottom lands, through which a stream, called Chartier creek, meanders, and passing round the western side of the mountain, falls into Cedar creek, a few miles below. A seat for working the ore, is situated about 7 miles to the northwest, on Cedar creek, and another, sufficient to drive any number of forges, eight miles distant, on Big river. Within two miles of this, on a small creek, there is a sufficient fall, and plenty of water, for establishing an extensive foundery."
The other mineral productions of this county are zinc, red chalk, ochre, sulphur, alum, salt, and salt-petre. But as it is foreign to my present purpose to enter into the description of
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these, I shall refer the reader to the valuable work above quoted. Mining has hitherto been conducted on a very small scale, and the mere surface of millions of lead ore, has as yet been discovered. The want of capitalists has confined the operations of the inhabitants. Within the last two years, however, more attention has been paid to this interesting section of the country. Numbers from all parts of the state have removed thither, and the amount of lead procured, has been nearly doubled. "New discoveries," as they are called, are continually making, and every days' experience only strengthens the opinion, that the quantity of mineral is inexhaustible. Iron works have also, within that period of time, been increased, and promise to be. come vast sources of wealth. There are at this time in the county of Washington, upwards of 40 lead mines, 16 grist mills, 8 saw mills, 12 distilleries, one of which is worked by strain, 3 salt-petre caves, 1 powder mill, besides a number of iron mines, and forges, and bloomeries.Washington county, previous to the erection of St. Francois, contained 3741 inhabitants. It is attached to the third judicial circuit; sends three members to the house of representatives, and with Jefferson, one to the senate. Its seat of justice is Potosi.
Wayne county was erected from Cape Girardeau and Lawrence in 1818. After the boundaries of the state were settled, only a small part of Lawrence county was supposed to fall within the limits of Missouri, and this was attached to Wayne. It is bounded north by the counties of Gasconade, Washington and Madison, east by Cape Girardeau and New Madrid, south by the territory of Arkansas, and west by the western boundary of the state. It is watered by the St. Francois, Black river and its branches, and by numerous tributaries of White river and the Osage.
The eastern part of this county is level, and in some places marshy, containing some fine districts of farming land. In the interior it is hilly and sterile. Large tracts consist of bald
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silecious hills, which are scarcely worth the expence of surveying.The productions of this county are similar to those of New-Madrid and Cape Girardeau. The settlements are principally confined to the banks of the St. Francis, upon which are some fine tracts of land.
Wayne county contains 1614 inhabitants. It is attached to the fourth judicial circuit; sends one member to the house of representatives, and with Madison, one to the senate. Its county seat is Greenville.
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OF THE ,
TOWNS, VILLAGES, RIVERS, CREEKS, &c. &c.
IN THE STATE OF MISSOURI.
ARRANGED ALPHABETICALLY.
Alexandria, the county seat of Lincoln, is situated in the northern part of township 49 north, in range 1, west of the 5th principal meridian, 12 miles west of the Mississippi, and one and a half west of the Riviere au Cuivre. It was laid off in the autumn of 1821, and little improvement has as yet been made on the premises. It is in lat. 39° north.
Alexandria, a town in Callaway county, situated on the north bank of the Missouri, a mile and a half above Cote sans Dessein, opposite the mouth of the Osage river.
Apple creek, a small stream, forming a part of the southern boundary of Perry county; runs a devious course, and empties into the Mississippi, nearly opposite the mouth of Big Muddy river. The lands on this stream are very fertile.
Arrow creek, a small stream, rises in a prairie, and running a southwest course, empties into the Missouri on the north side, 200 miles above its mouth. Near the mouth of this creek is Arrow Rock, and the Prairie of Arrows.
Bainbridge, a town of Cape Girardeau county, situated on the bank of the Mississippi, 12 miles above the town of Cape Girardeau, 14 miles east of Jackson. It contains as yet but few houses, although its situation is somewhat favourable. The road from Kentucky; and Illinois to the White river and Arkansas passes through it: which from the peculiar situation of the Mississippi
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bottoms is an advantage it possesses over the other towns between it, and the mouth of the Ohio.Butes' creek or fork, a trifling stream of Washington county, emptying into Mineral Fork of Big river.
Bayou Pemisco, a small stream, runs an east course, and empties into the Mississippi near New-Madrid.
Bear creek, a small stream, runs a southeast course and falls into the Mississippi, near Hannibal, opposite section 18 of township 4 south, in range 8, west of the 4th principal meridian.
Belle Fontaine, an American garrison in St. Louis county, on the south side of the Missouri, four miles above its Junction with the Mississippi.
Bellevue, a rich and flourishing settlement in Washington county, situated 10 miles southwest of Potosi. It contains a large body of first rate farming land, and its population is rapidly increasing. Iron and lead ore is very abundant in the vicinity.
Big Bone, a small stream, running a northerly course, and emptying into the Osage river on the right side. On this stream are found mammoth bones. See Gasconade river.
Big Bonne Femme river, a considerable stream, rises in Chariton county, and running through the interior of Howard, falls into the Missouri about six miles below Franklin. Boone's salt Forks are on the banks of this stream.
Big Muddy river, a considerable stream of Callaway county, runs a southerly course, and empties into the Missouri, in township 45 north, in range 8, west of the 5th principal meridian, 20 miles above the junction of the Gasconade river. It is about 50 yards wide at its mouth, in the vicinity of which, a fertile alluvion stretches itself along the banks of the Missouri. This stream is well calculated for mills and other machinery.
Big north forth of White river, rises in the range of hills which extends through the southwestern part of the state, and falls into
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White river, below Little North Fork. Very little is as yet known of this stream, or the lands bordering on it.Big river, (sometimes called Grand river,) rises in the southern part of the mine country, and running a devious northerly course through the counties of Washington, St. Franiois and Jefferson, falls into the Merrimack, in township 43 north, in range 4, east of the 5th principal meridian, 30 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. A great portion of the lands on its banks is very fertile, and presents the most beautiful situations for farms. A short distance back from the river, the surface becomes high and undulating, and the soil is in many places sterile. To compensate for this, it abounds with iron and lead ore of the best quality. In a grave which was opened on the banks of this stream, about 30 miles from the Merrimack, there was a skeleton eight feet in length. It was accompanied by some trifling articles of pottery, pipes and glass beads.
Big Rock creek rises in Cooper; runs an easterly course through the northern part of this and the adjoining county, and falls into the Missouri on the right side, a short distance above the mouth of Little Bonne-femme.
Blackbird creek, a small stream; runs a southerly course into the Missouri on the left side, 210 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. Opposite to the mouth of this creek, is an island and a prairie, which encloses a small lake.
Black river, a large stream of the southern part of the state, runs a southerly course through the county of Wayne, and after receiving the Currents, Eleven Point, Spring and Strawberry rivers, and numerous other tributaries, falls into White river, near lat. 35° 30 north. Only a small part of this river is within the present boundary of this state, and we are as yet but partially acquainted with its geography.
Blue Water river, a considerable stream of Lillard county, runs a northerly course, and empties into the Missouri, above fort Osage, and within 10 miles of the western boundary line of the state. A few miles up this stream, gypsum is very
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abundant. It is of a good quality, and large quantities are said to be procured for exportation. This stream is about 30 yards wide at its mouth. At this place, the Missouri is confined within a narrow bed, and the current still more so by counter-currents or eddies on one side, and a high bank on the other.Bluffton, the seat of justice of Ray county, situated about two miles north of the Missouri river, in township 51 north, in range 28, west of the 5th principal meridian. As it has but recently been laid out, few improvements have as yet been made.
Bois-brule bottom, (Burnt woods) a fertile alluvion, extending along the Mississippi, in Perry county. It is about 15 miles in length, and is one of the most rioted bodies of farming land in the state. It is covered with the heaviest growth of trees, such as are peculiar to the richest bottoms. The settlement on it is flourishing, and is daily increasing in population. According to Mr. Schoolcraft, fuller's earth forms one of the lower strata of this bottom, but can only be seen at low water.
Bon-Homme creek, a small stream, runs a north course through the county of St. Louis, and empties into the Missouri about 40 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. It waters a very fertile district of farming land, which is held under confirmed Spanish grants. The bluffs of the creek consist principally of limestone, which affords good lime. This stream is well calculated for mills and other machinery, as it is seldom destitute of water, even in the driest seasons. Chesterfield, a flourishing town, is situated one mile above its mouth. The settlements on this creek were commenced at an early period, and have been continually increasing. The richness of the land, its vicinity to the Missouri, the abundance of fine springs and streams, and the immense quantity of excellent timber, are some of the advantages which have produced its present prosperity. On Bon-Homme creek the remains of several Indians have been found. The bones were almost entirely decayed; but the implements which were buried with them, are generally in a state of preservation. The Rev. Mr. Giddings, of St. Louis, has in his possession a small clay vessel, found in one of these graves: It is about four inches in diameter, and from its hardness,
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appears to have been well baked. A number of pipes, and implements of various kinds, have also been found.Boonville, a flourishing post town, and the seat of justice of Cooper county, on the south bank of the Missouri, in township 49 north, in range 17, west of the 5th principal meridian, opposite the town of Franklin. It is situated on an elevated rocky shore, which commands a fine view of the river for several miles, and affords a good harbour for boats. A fertile country lies south, cast, and west; it is handsomely interspersed with prairie and timber, and intersected with fine streams of water.
Boonville is in latitude 38° 55' north, about 150 miles west of St. Charles. It contains upwards of 1000 inhabitants.
Bourbeuse river, (or Muddy,) a small stream, running a northeasterly course through Franklin county, and emptying into the Merrimack on the right side. The lands on its banks are elevated, broken, and sometimes hilly.
Bryan's creek, runs an easterly course through the northern part of Lincoln county, and empties into the Mississippi.
Buck-eye river, a tributary of the Osage, emptying in from the south.
Buffaloe creek, a small stream of Pike county, runs a northeasterly course, and falls into the Mississippi two miles below the mouth of Salt river. Extensive salt-works are in operation on the banks of this stream, near Louisiana. There are also the ruins of a number of ancient forts, similar to those on the Noyer creek and Osage river. The timber on the banks of Buffaloe, is hackberry, cotton wood, and ash; the soil is generally fertile, and the surface level. From this creek to Salt river, the eastern shore of the Mississippi is bounded by high rocky cliffs, covered with cedar.
Buffaloe river, (Riviere au Boeuf, Fr..) a considerable stream, rises in the county of Gasconade, and running from thence through the northwest part of Franklin, empties into the Missouri in township 44 north, in range 2, west of the 5th principal meridian, a few miles above Charette river. It waters a district
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of country in some places high, hilly, and sterile; in others low, level, and fertile. Newport, the seat of justice of Franklin, is situated at its junction with the Missouri. Opposite this place is Buffaloe island, which is very extensive, and contains several fine plantations.Byrd's settlement, a flourishing settlement in Cape Girardeau county, a few miles west of the Mississippi. The improvements here are very extensive.
Caledonia, a town recently laid off in Bellevue township, Washington county, 12 miles west of Potosi. It is in a flourishing situation, and is surrounded by a body of the richest farming land.
Calumet creek, a small stream of Pike county, runs a northeasterly course, and falls into the Mississippi opposite the lower junction of Chenail ecarte.
Cape Girardeau, a post town, and formerly the seat of justice of the county, situated on the Mississippi, 45 miles above the junction of the Ohio. It contains 50 or 60 houses, among which are several stores, and a post-office. The site is elevated, and commands a fine prospect of the river for several miles. It is surrounded by a fertile country, which is under cultivation. The inhabitants are principally French and Germans. Although this place possesses many advantages, it appears at present to be rather declining. Twelve miles west is Jackson, the present seat of justice of the county.
Cape Cinq-hommes creek, a trifling stream, falls into the Mississippi a short distance below Bois-brule bottom. Near the mouth of this creek the Mississippi makes a sudden turn to the east, and being a rocky shore, the water is thrown against it with great violence, and forms what is called the Great eddy. This place is called Cape Cinq-hommes, and is very dangerous, unless avoided in time. Several boats have been foundered here, but it has generally been owing to the negligence of their captains.
Cardinal river, a small tributary of the Osage, emptying in from the south.
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Carondelet, a small village, situated on the west bank of the Mississippi, five miles south of the town of St. Louis. It is regularly laid out in squares of 300 feet on each side, the houses standing towards the streets, and the interior of the area composed of gardens and orchards. "To this, as well as the other villages, was appropriated a large space of ground, and fenced in the form of a parallelogram. In this space, allotments are laid out, corresponding in number and relative magnitude with the town lots. These allotments extend the whole length of the field; but their magnitude is determined by their breadth, which is marked on one of the fences; being once, or once and a half, or twice, &c. the length of a side of a square arpent of land. In the common fields belonging to Carondelet, these narrow strips are more than a mile and a half in length. Besides the appropriation for cultivation, an extensive tract was laid out as a forest or demesne, from which each individual cuts what wood he thinks proper. All these appropriations have been ratified by the commissioners appointed by the government since the cession of Louisiana, to examine into claims."This village is principally inhabited by French and Spaniards, who still preserve their own manners and customs. It possesses few commercial advantages; and in consequence of the vicinity of St. Louis, few Americans have trespassed on their repose. The inhabitants are in general indolent and inactive, but quiet and peaceable. They live upon the produce of their gardens and common fields, and sometimes by hunting and fishing. In winter they supply St. Louis with wood, for which they charge an exorbitant price, in which, on account of the vast increase of inhabitants, they have been heretofore indulged.
Carondelet was first settled shortly after 1764. For a few years it increased rapidly; but it soon became stationary, and has remained so ever since. In 1799, it contained about 200 inhabitants: since this time its increase has been very trifling.
Castor creek, a considerable stream, runs a southerly course through the counties of Madison and Wayne, and empties into the St. Francis river on the left side. It waters a district of country which is in some places level and fertile, in others hilly and barren.
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Cave creek, a small stream of Wayne county, falls into Currents river. Its name is derived from the number of caves found on its banks. The largest and most interesting that have as yet been discovered, are situated 80 or 90 miles southwest of Potosi. Several of them abound with stalactites and stalagmites, the former of which are "found in concretions resembling icicles hanging from the roof, or in columns reaching to the floor; some specimens are translucent, and the cause which has produced them is removed, the dropping has ceased, and the caves are generally dry, affording now an earth richly impregnated with salt-petre; and this salt is found effloresced on the rocks, very fine and white." (Schoolcraft.)A stratum of blue and white striped jasper, occurs in the secondary limestone, which forms the bed of this stream.
Cedar creek, a small branch of Big river.
Cedar creek, a considerable stream, forms the boundary between Callaway and Boone counties. It holds a devious southerly course, and empties into the Missouri on the left side, in township 45 north, in range 11, west of the 5th principal meridian, 12 miles above the mouth of the Osage.
This stream has received its present name from the growth of cedar near its mouth. At this place, also, the north bank of the Missouri assumes a most interesting appearance: it consists of a range of rocks, nearly perpendicular, from 150 to 300 feet high. They are composed of very white limestone, and their summits are covered to the edge with cedar. The length of this range is about six miles, and at the upper end they assume a semicircular form. They are called the Manitau rocks, a name given to them by the lndians, who often apply this term, Manitau, to uncommon or singular productions of nature, which they highly venerate.
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these manifestations of his power; and that offerings deposited there, will sooner attract his notice, and gain his auspices, than in any other place. These offerings are propitiatory, either for success in war, or in hunting; and consist of various articles, of which the feathers of the war eagle are in the greatest estimation. On these rocks, several rude figures have been drawn by the Indians, with red paint. They are chiefly in imitation of buffaloe, deer, &c. One of these, according with their idea of the Great Spirit, is not unlike our common representation of the devil." (Bradbury)Chariton, a post town, and the seat of justice of Chariton county, on the north bank of the Missouri, at the junction of the river of the same name, in township 51 north, and range 17, west of the 5th principal meridian. It is situated on an alluvion, based on a limestone rock, and is surrounded by a large district of choice farming land. Here is an excellent harbour, and landing for boats at all seasons of the year. In consequence of some ponds in the vicinity of the town, it is subject to summer and autumnal fevers; but they are, however, seldom fatal.
This place is so favourably situated at the junction of the three navigable streams, that it bids fair to become of considerable importance as a commercial depot. It is also surrounded by a fertile district of country, whose agricultural resources are becoming more and more important. After this town was laid out, it increased with a rapidity almost unexampled, and in a short time 50 or 60 houses were built. For the last two years, however, it has been less flourishing, and its increase has been very trifling. This has rather been owing to the general stagnation of business, than to any particular or local cause.
Chariton is in latitude 39° 10' north; 24 miles northwest of Franklin, and 150 nearly northwest of St. Charles.
Chariton rivers. These two streams empty into the Missouri together, and are distinguished from each other by the names of Grand and Little Chariton.
Charrette creek, a beautiful stream of Montgomery county, runs a southerly course, and empties into the Missouri on the left side, in township 45 north, in range 1, west of the 5th
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principal meridian, two or three miles below the town of Newport. The lands on tins stream are generally fertile. At its junction with the Missouri is Charrette village.Charrette village, at the mouth of Charrette creek, contains 40 or 50 families, which are principally French. It lies in a bend of the Missouri; and opposite to it is a large island, which is very fertile. The distance from this place to St. Charles, is about 40 miles.
Chartier creek, a small stream, meanders through Bellevue, Washington county, and falls into Cedar creek, a few miles below the Iron mountain. The lands on the banks of this stream are noted for their fertility.
Chepousa river, a considerable stream, rises in a lake in the western part of New Madrid county, and running an easterly course, falls into the Mississippi, a short distance above the town of the same name. The mouth of this stream affords a good harbour for boats.
Chesterfield, a post town in St. Louis county, situated on Bonhomme creek, a mile above its junction with the Missouri. It was laid out in 1818, and is at present in a state of improvement. Its situation is high, and tolerably healthy. There is a sufficiency of timber in the immediate vicinity; and the lands, particularly on the bottoms of the Missouri and Bonhomme, are very fertile. The town is supplied by a number of fine springs, and water can always be obtained by digging about 30 feet, without meeting a stratum of rock, a circumstance so common in this county. Limestone, however, is abundant on Bonhomme creek, a short distance from the town, of which lime of a very fine quality is burnt. Good brick clay is also abundant.
City of Jefferson, the present seat of government of the state, situated at the mouth of Wier's creek, in Cole county. The following sections of land were selected by the commissioners appointed for that purpose, viz: In the fractional township 44 north, (south of the Missouri,) in range 11, west of the 4th principal meridian, the fractional sections 6, 7 and 8; the entire
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sections 17 and 18, and so much of the north part of sections 19 and 20, as will make four sections.By an act of the legislature passed 11th of January, 1822, the commissioners appointed to select a permanent seat of government, were directed to meet on the first Monday of the ensuing March, on the land selected as above, and proceed immediately to lay out a town thereon, to contain at least one thousand lots, and in blocks or squares of such size and dimensions as a majority of them shall agree; and the principal street of said town shall not be less than one hundred, nor more than one hundred and twenty feet wide; the other streets not less than eighty feet, and the alleys twenty feet wide. The remaining part of the four sections are to be laid into lots of five, ten, twenty, and forty acres, and divided by alleys, so as to secure to each lot free and open communication with the said town.
This act also provides, that the said commissioners shall report to the next session of the general assembly, a plan of said town, and of the other lots laid off as aforesaid; and shall, on the first Monday of May in the year 1823, proceed to sell all the town lots and out lots on the premises, to the highest bidder, for equal instalments, one third payable on the first day of May, and the remaining two thirds in two equal annual instalments, except such lots as are reserved for the public use.
Clarksville, a post town in Pike county, situated on the Mississippi, near the mouth of Calumet creek, in township 53 north, in range 1, east of the 5th principal meridian. It contains several houses and stores, and is at present in a flourishing condition.
Columbia, a town in St. Louis county, situated near the junction of the Missouri and Mississippi. It need scarcely be observed, that little or no improvement has as yet been made here, and the town exists only on paper, for the purposes of speculation. The lands in the vicinity are low, and subject to inundation, and consequently this place can never become of much importance. A ferry has been established across the Mississippi, a short distance below the town.
Columbia, a post town, and the county seat of Boone. Its
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situation is low, although rarely subject to inundation. It is surrounded on all sides by bodies of the most fertile land.Cook's Settlement, in St. Francois county, extends along the main road from St. Louis to Arkansas, and is one of the most flourishing in the state.
Cote sans Dessein, (Hill without design,) a post town in Callaway county, on the left bank of the Missouri, opposite the mouth of the Osage. Its situation is very eligible, and it must in time become a place of some importance. The fertility of the surrounding country cannot be surpassed. "It is here," observes Mr. Brackenridge, in his Journal of a Voyage up the Missouri, "that we met with the first appearance of prairie on the Missouri, but it is handsomely mixed with woodland. The wooded country on the northeast extends at least 30 miles, as far up as this place, and not less than 15 on the other side. The name is given to this place from the circumstance of a single detached hill filled with limestone, standing on the bank of the river, about 600 yards long, and very narrow. The village has been established about three years; there are thirteen French families, and two or three of Indians. They have handsome fields in the prairies, but the greater part of their time is spent in hunting. From their eager enquiries after merchandize, I perceived we were already remote from the settlements."
Since the above was written, numerous and extensive settlements have been formed west of this, and Cote sans Dessein is comparatively in the interior. Its fine situation, and other numerous advantages, have contributed much to its improvement. From the Osage, it is supplied with lumber, and the several other productions of the country bordering on that stream.
Creve Coeur creek, a small stream of St. Louis county, rises in a lake of the same name, and running a devious course, empties into the Missouri, a short distance below Bonhomme. It crosses the Bonhomme road, 18 miles west of St. Louis. The lands on this stream are fertile, and generally well adapted for cultivation. In some places, however, the bottoms are low, and subject to inundation, which renders them very unhealthy. In others, they are very heavily timbered. All the lands on this creek
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are held by Spanish grants, which have been confirmed. The settlements on it are among the oldest in the country.The general course of this creek is northwest. About two miles above its junction with the Missouri, it forms Lake Creve Coeur, which, abounds with fish; but in the summer season, in consequence of its stagnation, it is a fruitful source of disease.
Cuivre river, (Riviere au Cuivre, Fr.) a fine stream, rises in Pike county, runs a southeasterly course through Lincoln, and after receiving Eagle Fork, and several other tributaries, empties into the Mississippi, near the northern part of township 48 north, in range 3, east of the 5th principal meridian. -- It is navigable for some distance, and affords several fine millseats. Several towns and flourishing sertlements have already sprung up on its banks. The country which it waters, is celebrated for its fertility and salubrity, and on this account is rapidly increasing in population.
Cupboard creek, runs a southerly course, and empties into the Missouri on the left side, 135 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. Its takes its name from the singular appearance of a rock at its mouth.
Currents river, a considerable stream, empties into Black river on the right side, above Fourche a Thomas, (Thomas' fork.)
The water of this stream is very transparent; before it joins Black River, it receives Little Black.
Dardenne river, a small stream of St. Charles county, runs a northeast course, and empties into the Mississippi, six miles above the mouth of the Illinois. The lands on its banks are generally fertile, and sometimes heavily timbered. This stream affords numerous fine mill-seats.
Dry creek, a small stream, falls into Big river on the right side, near its junction with the Merrimack. McKane's lead mine is situated on it.
DuBois creek, (Wood creek,) a small stream of Franklin county, runs a northwest course, and empties into the Missouri
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on the right side, in township 44 north, in range 1, east of the 5th principal meridian.Eagle fork, a small stream, runs an easterly course, and empties into Cuivre river on the right side, in township 48 north, in range, 1, east of the 5th principal meridian. It forms a part of the boundary between the counties of Lincoln and St. Charles. The lands on this stream are generally fertile and thickly settled.
East fork of the Osage, runs a southwest course, and empties in on the right side.
Eleven Point river, a considerable branch of Black river.
Elisabeth, the seat of justice of Callaway county, laid out in 1821, in township 47 north, in range 9, west of the 5th principal meridian, between Big and Little Muddy rivers. There is a considerable settlement in the vicinity. It is in lat. 38° 45' N. 14 miles northeast of Cote sans Dessein, and 75 due west of St. Charles.
Establishment creek, a small stream emptying into the Mississippi, in St. Genevieve county. Chalcedony and onyx are found in abundance on the west side of this creek. (Schoolcraft.)
Fabba creek, a small stream of Rails county, runs a southeast course, and after receiving Little Fabba, empties into the Mississippi, in township 59 north, in range 5, west of the 5th principal meridian.
Femme Osage, a fine stream of St. Charles county, runs a southeast course, and empties into the Missouri, forty miles above its mouth, in township 45 north, in range 3, east of the 5th principal meridian. Its banks are in general broken, and are said to contain large quantities of gypsum. This stream is thirty yards wide at its mouth, where there is a small settlement.
Fenton, a town laid out a few years since, on the west bank of the Merrimack river, 15 miles southwest of the town of St. Louis, and 11, west of the Mississippi river. Although it possesses several advantages, it is doubtful whether it will become of much
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consequence. Indeed, this town is as yet but merely laid out on paper, and but for the interesting antiquities in the vicinity, would never have been noticed.The plantation of Mr. Long, upon which Fenton is intended to be built, contains several mounds, similar in appearance to those found near St. Louis and elsewhere, in the valley of the Mississippi. They are, however, generally of a smaller size; but like them, are covered with fragments of ancient potter's ware, spear and arrow heads. From the ruins, also, it appears that there was once a fort built, probably garrisoned, and perhaps defended and lost, by that unknown race of beings, who have left behind them so many proofs of their industry, their civilization, and their knowledge of the arts. On a side hill, about 100 yards north, is a burying ground, which strengthens the opinion that there was a permanent settlement in the vicinity. -- A few years since a number of these graves wore opened by the present proprietor of the land. In each of them were found six rude pieces of stone, which were arranged in the manner, and served the purpose of a coffin. In many instances, the head and foot-stones projected above the surface of the ground, but I believe in no case contained any inscription. The coffins were uniformly from 23 to 50 inches in length. A few of them contained imperfect skeletons, but the rest only exhibited the proof, that "dust had returned to dust."
The diminutive size of the graves excited the attention of all who visited this cemetery, and the probable cause became the subject of much dispute. Some considered it as positive proof of the existence of a race of pigmies, while others, with more justice, attributed if to the peculiar manner of interment. As this subject is so curious and interesting, I cannot refrain from presenting the following communications which appeared in the Missouri Gazette, shortly after these graves were first opened. They not only contain the several theories which were advanced, but also many facts which are important to those who have turned their attention to the antiquities of our country. The first was probably written by a physician, but his name I have not been able to learn -- the second is from the pen of Judge Pettibone, of St. Charles, and the last from that of the Rev. J. M.
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Peck,
"A short time since. Mr. Long, the proprietor of a farm on the south side of the Merrimack river, about fifteen miles from this place, (St. Louis) discovered on the site on which he had fixed his dwelling, a number of graves, the size of which appeared uncommonly small. This awakened his curiosity, and led him to a minute examination, which convinced him they were the remains of human beings much smaller than those of the present day. He seemed warranted in this conclusion, as well from the uniform appearance of the skeletons, (the length of which in no case exceeded four feet) as from the teeth, which bore the evident marks of those belonging to adult persons. He communicated these facts to a gentleman of this place, who on Sunday last, together with two other gentlemen, accompanied by Doctors Walker and Grayson, proceeded to the place of interment. -- They found, as had been stated, in a wood adjacent to the house, a great number of graves, all situated on small tumuli or hillocks, raised about three feet above the surface; they examined several, the first of which, by actual measurement, was discovered to be only twenty-three inches in length. The grave was carefully cased up on both sides, as well at the head and foot with flat stone; in the bottom also a stone was fixed, on winch the body was lying, placed on the right side with the head to the east. -- Time had completely destroyed all the soft parts of the body, as well as decomposed the bones, which, however, still preserved their relative situation. The teeth, which were expected to furnish the best, and perhaps the only data to judge, were found in a state almost perfect, being defended by the enamel, which seems only to yield to chemical decomposition. To the astonishment of all, they proved to be the teeth of a being, who, if it had not attained the age of puberty, had unquestionably arrived at that period of life when the milk teeth yield to the second or permanent set. The molares and incisores were of the ordinary
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size of second teeth. The jaw bone seemed to have its full complement, unless it were the dentes sapientiae, or what is better understood by the wisdom teeth, which make their appearance from the age of eighteen to twenty-two or twenty three. The next grave examined was on an adjacent mound, and measured twenty seven inches; it resembled in every respect the first, except that the top of it was covered with flat stones placed horizontally. Several others were opened, all of which presented a uniform appearance; and none, although many were measured, proved to be in length more than four feet two or three inches.From these facts the mind is brought to the irresistible conclusion, that these are the remains of beings differing altogether from, and interior in general size to ourselves.
For if in the subject first mentioned, we suppose it to be a being of the usual growth, the facts of its having attained the age of seven or eight years, as seems proven from the teeth, is directly opposite to, and at war with the circumstance of its being only twenty-three inches long, the usual length of a child eight or ten months old, and justifies the conclusion, that by nature it was destined to be of inferior size. As to the time these bodies have been deposited, there is no clue by which to form any certain opinion. The bones have been thoroughly changed by time, nothing remaining but the lime or earthy particles of them, which can undergo no further change, and may as well be supposed to have been in this state five centuries ago, as one. It is certain they have been there an immense length of time, from the large growth of timber on the mounds, and the roots of trees which have made their way through the graves.
The subject certainly invites the attention of the learned and curious, and opens an ample field fur investigation, at least to form some plausible conjecture of a race of beings who have inhabited out country at a period fur beyond that of which tradition gives us any account."
Judge Pettibone's remarks, which appeared in the same paper a few months after the above, are as follows:
"A publication in your paper of the sixth of November last, concerning a discovery of some dwarf skeletons, made upon the farm of a Mr. Long, on the north bank of the Merrimack river, in this county, (St. Louis) together with several letters from
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this place on the same subject, are now going the round or the American papers. As yet I have seen no attempt to account for the size and appearance of those skeletons, upon any other supposition than that they are the remains of a people far less in size than any known at the present day. Unwilling to adopt a belief so contrary to the general order of nature and to the history of the human species, so far as it has been transmitted to us, I shall hazard some conjectures upon the subject, which I think will in some measure tend to dissolve the mystery that hovers over these bones, and to reconcile their appearance with the general history of our race. To be sure, nature, in her sport, has now and then produced monsters. A taste for the marvellous among travellers and historians, has occasionally conjured up a race of giants, or a nation of pigmies; but when the, light of truth has reached us from the distant corners of the earth where they were said to dwell, we have found them to assume the size, shape, and attitude of men, and nothing more. So far as observation or history extends, we find the species nearly the same in all ages and in all countries. Climate has had some effect upon the size and upon the complexion. The excessive cold of the north has shortened an inch or two the necks of the Esquimaux, and the heat of the south has coloured the African. But what in this genial climate should make dwarfs? It is here, if any where, that we should naturally expect to find giants! All the other productions of nature are here brought forth in the highest perfection. And shall man here grow a pigmy? Unless we are ready to adopt the opinion of certain naturalists, that the human species are the legitimate descendants of the apes, and that they once wore tails, and were of their diminutive size; unless we are ready to believe the history of the Lilliputians, and of Tom Thumb, I think we shall discard the idea of a nation of dwarfs, as wholly preposterous. But how shall we account for the appearances upon the farm of Mr. Long, upon any other supposition?"None of the graves found there exceed four feet in length, many of them fall short of three, and the teeth found in all of them show that they contain the remains of human beings who had arrived at years of maturity. The manners and customs of the Indians with respect to the treatment of their dead, will, I
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think, solve all difficulties, and satisfactorily account for these appearances, without doing violence to nature. According to the testimonies of travellers and historians, it has been the custom among many tribes of Indians, to hang their dead in baskets upon trees and upon scaffolds, until their flesh was consumed, and then to take them down and clean their bones, and bury them. There existed an order of men among them called bone-pickers, with long nails like claws, whose business and profession it was to clean the unconsumed flesh from the bones previous to burial. This custom still exists among the Indians on the waters of the Missouri, and rationally accounts for the appearances upon the farm of Mr. Long. The bones of a skeleton of the ordinary size when separated, would naturally occupy a grave of three or four feet in length. It appears that in all the graves which were opened, the bones, except the teeth, were reduced to a chalky substance; so that it would be impossible to know, with any certainty, in what state, condition, or form they were deposited there. These skeletons are said to rest on their sides. Taking this fact to be true, it goes to strengthen my ideas on this subject. In burying a corpse, it is natural, and so far as we are acquainted, universally the custom, to bury them with the face upwards. We can look upon our dead friends with a melancholy complacency; we cast a long and lingering look after them, until they are completely shut from our view in the grave; and nothing is more hard and heart-rending than to tear our last looks from them. It is natural then that the body should be placed in such a position as most to favour this almost universal desire of the human heart. But in burying a skeleton, it would be as natural to avert the horrid grin of a death's head from us. To face the grinning skeleton of a friend, must fill us with horror and disgust. ‘Turn away the horrid sight,’ would be the language of nature. If we adopt my supposition as correct in this case, all the facts correspond with nature. But if we adopt the opinion of the writer in your paper, our opinions are at war with nature, reason, and universal observation."
The following are the observations of the Rev. Mr. Peck on the same subject:
"A communication in the Gazette of the 10th inst. by "Historicus," accounting in a rational manner for the graves on the
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plantation of Mr. Long has given rise to the following remarks, as tending to cast further light on the subject, and in part confirm the opinion of the writer:Mr. M -- informed me, that himself, his lady, and another, were present at the opening of several graves, after the spot had been visited, and the skeletons examined by several physicians of St. Louis. One grave was opened which measured four feet in length; this was formed by laving a flat stone at the bottom, placing one at each side, one at each end, and covering the mouth with another. In the last circumstance, this grave differed from the others that were opened, the contents were a full grown skeleton, with the head and teeth, part of the spine, the thigh and leg bones, in a tolerable state of preservation. The leg bones were found parallel with the bones of the thighs, and every appearance indicated either that the corpse had been entombed, with the legs and thighs placed so as to meet, or that a skeleton had been deposited in this order. The first opinion seems the most probable, from the fact that a large stone pipe was found in the tomb, and which I understand is now in the possession of Mr. Long.
It is a well known fact, that both implements of war, and of domestic use, are buried with the dead bodies of the Indians; but it admits of a question, if they are ever deposited with the mere skeleton.
"It is a well known fact," says bishop Madison, while writing on the supposed fortifications of the western country,
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vicinity. If these were opened, there would be found promiscuously deposited the bones of the aborigines, which pious veneration from year to year, and from century to century, industriously collected. The cemetery alluded to on the plantation of Mr. Long, may be viewed as the public burial place of some powerful nation, of the same size, and similar customs with other Indians.No wish is entertained to object to the hypothesis of "Historicus," in regard to the customs to which he alludes. The shortness of the graves may be attributed to different causes."
Fire Prairie river, runs a northeast course through the northern part of Lillard county, and empties into the Missouri on the right side, six miles below Fort Osage. Fire prairie extends along the Missouri near the mouth of this stream.
Fishing river, a considerable stream of the western part of the state, rises in Clay county, and after receiving a few tributaries, falls into the Missouri, about 20 miles below Fort Osage. The lands on this stream are celebrated for their fertility.
Flat river, a branch of Big river, meandering through St. Francois county.
Fort Osage, (formerly Fort Clark,) situated on the south side of the Missouri, near the western boundary of the state, on an eminence about 100 feet above the level of the river, which, by forming an elbow, affords a beautiful prospect. The fort is small, not being calculated for more than one company of men. Few, if any troops are at present stationed here, in consequence of the large settlements by which it is surrounded. There are at this place a factory, and a trading establishment. The bank of the Missouri at the fort is high and rocky, below it is generally well timbered. Several of the prairies in this vicinity are very large, extending in a southwest direction, with little interruption, to near Santa Fe. Persons who wish to visit the latter place, often travel this route in preference to the southern. But such is the scarcity of fuel, that they are obliged to burn withered grass, and sometimes bison ordure.
Fort Osage is in latitude 38. 40' north.
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Fourche a Courtois, a considerable stream, rises in the broken lands in the southern part of Washington and St. Genevieve counties, and running a northerly course, empties into the Merrimack on the right side. Its banks abound with lead ore, which is frequently accompanied with manganese.Fourche a Thomas, (Thomas' fork,) rises in the hills which extend through the southwestern part of the state, and running a southeasterly course, falls into Big Black river between Spring and Currents rivers.
Frankfort, a town of Pike county, situated in section 35 of township 55 north, in range 4, west of the 5th principal meridian, between Spencer and Peno creeks, 18 miles west of Louisiana. There is a flourishing settlement in the vicinity, although the town is not yet of much consequence.
Franklin, a flourishing post town, and the seat of justice of Howard county, situated on the north bank of the Missouri, in township 49 north, in range 16, west of the 5th principal meridian. This place has increased with a rapidity almost unexampled, containing already upwards of 1500 inhabitants. The offices of the register and receiver of the land district of Howard, are kept here. An act has lately been passed by the legislature, incorporating the Franklin academy under the direction of seven trustees. It is at present in a flourishing situation, and promises the most beneficial results.
As a place of business, Franklin has always held a conspicuous rank. It is the depot of an extensive tract of country, which has been justly celebrated for its fertility. The annual exports of bacon, corn and salt, are very considerable. The Missouri at this place affords an excellent harbor for boats, and the town possesses almost every natural advantage.
Franklin is in lat. 38° 52' north, 130 miles northwest of St. Charles.
Fredericktown, the seat of justice of Madison county, situated about half a mile south of St. Michaels, and near Mine La Motte. It is surrounded on all sides by inexhaustible mines of lead and iron. The lands, therefore, in this vicinity, are
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generally broken, hilly, and sterile, although there are several small tracts, which furnish excellent plantations. At this place, the roads leading (from Jackson to Potosi, and from the Arkansas to St. Louis, cross each other. Fredericktown is in latitude 37° 30' north, 85 miles due south of St. Charles.Gabourie creek, a small stream of St. Genevieve county, runs a devious course, and empties into the Mississippi, about ten miles above the mouth of the Kaskaskia river. The lands on this stream are in general fertile, those immediately on its banks being level, those farther west, undulating. Two miles above the mouth, is the town of St. Genevieve.
Gasconade, the county seat of Gasconade, situated on the west bank of the Gasconade river, at its junction with the Missouri, in township 45 north, in range 6, west of the 5th principal meridian. The country in the vicinity is elevated, undulating, and sometimes even hilly, and generally sterile. The mouth of the Gasconade affords a good harbor for boats. Very few buildings have as yet been erected in this place, and it is very doubtful whether its increase will he as rapid as was anticipated.
Gasconade is in latitude 38° 40' north, 60 miles nearly west of St. Charles.
Gasconade river, a large navigable stream, rises in the southern part of the state, and running a northeasterly course through the county of Gasconade, empties into the Missouri, in township 45 north, in range 6, west of the 5th principal meridian, about 100 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. Its channel is rough and rocky, and the lands on its borders are broken, hilly, and badly wooded. Occasionally, however, a tract of fertile alluvion intervenes. Iron and lead ore are abundant on this stream, and also salt-petre. The latter is found in caves, some of which are very large and splendid. In these have been found axes, and implements of different kinds. Ancient works, such as mounds, forts, &c. are also found on this stream. (See Gasconade county.)
On the Gasconade is a large quantity of pine timber, which is very valuable on account of its scarcity in this state and
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Illinois. Six or seven saw-mills are now in operation on this stream, about 100 miles west of St. Louis, and it is probable that the number will be much increased. Formerly, lumber was brought at great expence from the Alleghany and Ohio rivers. At present it can he sent down the Gasconade to St. Louis, and the other towns along the river, for one-fourth the price. This circumstance has of course stopped the importation, and keeps so much money within the state. The width of the Gasconade at its mouth, is one hundred and fifty-seven yards, and its depth nineteen feet.Geoffrion river, (or Jaufflone) runs a southeast course, and empties into the Mississippi, above Salt river. It is 30 yards wide at its mouth. I am led to believe the original French name was Javelot.
Good Man's creek, see Bon-homme. Good Woman's river, see Big and Little Bon-femme.
Grand Chariton, a considerable stream of Chariton county, runs a southerly course, and empties into the Missouri, at the town of Chariton. Previous to its joining the Missouri, it unites with the Little Chariton, on which account they are sometimes called ‘The Charitons.’ It is navigable nearly 100 miles. The lands on its borders are rich, broken, and heavily timbered, and contain several fine and nourishing settlements. This stream is 70 yards wide at its mouth, which is 220 above the junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi.
Grande Glaize, a small stream of St. Louis county, runs a southerly course, and empties into the Merrimack.
Grand Fork, one of the tributaries of the Osage, emptying in from the south.
Grand river, a large stream, rises in the highlands, between the Riviere des Moines and the Missouri, and running a south-easterly course, empties into the Missouri, in township 53 north, in range 20, west of the 5th principal meridian, about 250 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. For some distance, it
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forms the boundary between Chariton and Ray counties, and passes through the interior of the Missouri military tract. It is navigable for several hundred miles. The lands on its borders are reputed to be very fertile. At the junction of this stream with the Missouri, is a good town site, and the settlements in the vicinity are already quite flourishing and populous. The principal objection to the country watered by this stream is, that it is deficient in timber. Grand river, where it enters the Missouri, is between eighty and one hundred yards in width.Grassy creek, a small stream, runs a northeast course, and empties into Salt river on the right side, near its junction with the Mississippi.
Gravois creek, a trifling stream of St. Louis county. The lands on its borders are gently undulating, and very fertile. -- They contain some of the most productive plantations in the state.
Great Gravel river, a considerable stream, interlocks with the St. Francis, runs a northeast course, and empties into the Osage river, 36 miles above Little Gravel, and according to Pike, 118 miles above the confluence of the Osage with the Missouri.
Greenville, a small town of Wayne county, situated on the east bank of the St. Francis river, in township 28 north, in range 5, east of the 5th principal meridian. It is situated on a confirmed claim of J. E. Kelly. No improvements of any consequence have been as yet made here.
Greenville is in latitude 37. 15' north, about 100 miles due south of St. Charles.
Hannibal, a town of Rails county on the Mississippi, near the mouth of Bear creek, in township 57 north, in range 4, west of the 5th principal meridian, 25 miles above the mouth of Salt river, and 15 below that of Two Rivers. The town is situated on a high rocky bank of the river.
Hazel Run, a trifling stream of Washington county.
Herculaneum, a flourishing post town, and the seat of justice of Jefferson county, situated at the mouth of Joachim creek, in
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township 41 north, in range 6, east of the 5th principal meridian, on a high sandy bank of the Mississippi river. The flat on which the town is laid out is narrow, and bounded on each end by perpendicular precipices, 200 feet high, and rising almost directly from the water's edge. It appears to be nothing more than an opening for the admission of the Joachim to the Missisippi. The town contains between 30 and 40 houses, including a log court house and jail, 4 or 5 stores, a post-office, &c. The landing for boats is very good, and the Joachim affords an excellent harbor during the winter and spring. In the vicinity of the town are three shot towers, which are built on the precipices, from which the shot is dropped to the river bank. There are also several saw and grist-mills and distilleries on the Joachim and Plattin, which empties into the Mississippi, five miles below. Within a few miles, lead and iron ore are found in abundance, and this town is a considerable depot of the immense mine country. (Schoolcraft.) A few miles north of Herculaneum are the sulphur springs, sometimes resorted by invalids and convalescents. They issue from a stratum of limestone. They are, however, not so strongly impregnated with sulphur as those near St. Louis. Many persons resort here during the summer and fall months. "About 5 miles west of the town, there is a limestone rock about a quarter of a mile in length, and in some parts 40 or 50 feet high. This rock is so completely perforated in almost every part, as to resemble a honey-comb, and the perforations are from one-eighth to three quarters of an inch in diameter. It has exactly the appearance of marine rocks, perforated by mytilus, lithophagus or rugosus."Herculaneum is in latitude 38° 15' north, 30 miles south of St. Louis, and 35 northeast of Potosi.
Howard's Bluff, the seat of justice of Cole county, situated on a high bluff of the Missouri, 12 or 15 miles above the future capital of the state. It is in township 45 north, in range 13, west of the 5th principal meridian. As it has only been recently laid out, it contains as yet but a small number of inhabitants.
Howard's Bluff is in latitude 88° 35' north, 105 miles due west of St. Charles.
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Indian creek, a small stream, runs north through Washington and Jefferson counties, and empties into the Merrimack.Jackson, a post town, and the seat of justice of Cape Girardeau county, situated on a beautiful eminence between the eastern and western branches of Zenon creek, and about 10 miles west of the Mississippi. It is laid out in a regular form, the streets crossing each other at right angles. It contains between 60 and 100 houses, among which are a court house and jail, of a very good construction, and also a printing-office, from which a weekly paper is issued, entitled the "Missouri Herald." -- Eight lots of ground hare been appropriated by the legislature for the use of a seminary to be erected here, under the direction of five trustees. There is a bank of Spanish brown and chalk in the vicinity of this place, which promises to be a source of profit to the inhabitants.
Jackson is situated in lat. 37° 20' N. 50 miles north of the mouth of the Ohio, and 130 south of St. Charles.
James river, rises in the highlands south of the Gasconade, runs a southwest course about 200 miles, and after receiving Findley's river and several other tributaries, falls into White river nearly 1000 miles above its mouth. Its waters have the purity of crystal. On its banks are situated a body of the most fertile land which the whole valley of the Mississippi affords. The climate is salubrious, and game of all kinds is very abundant.
Jamestown, is situated in St. Louis county, on a bluff of the Missouri, six miles above its confluence with the Mississippi. In the rear of the town is the rich and flourishing settlement of St. Ferdinand. There is a cave in the vicinity, through which passes a fine stream of good water, and which can with very little expense be conducted to every part of the town. The Missouri affords here a tolerable landing for boats.
Jefferson, the seat of justice of Saline county, situated on the Missouri, at the head of Big bottom, upon a rock-bound shore, which is moderately ascending from the river. It forms one of the handsomest sites on, the Missouri, and the only objection to it, is the want of timber in the immediate vicinity. The Big
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bottom, and Edmonston's bottom are situated directly above and below. They are both well timbered and fertile, and calculated to support a dense population.Jefferson is in latitude 39° 18' north; about 10 miles above the town of Chariton.
Joachim creek, a small mill stream of Jefferson county, runs a devious easterly course, and empties into the Mississippi at Herculaneum. The lands on its banks are in some places fertile, in others high and undulating, and abounding with the ores.
La Benite creek, runs a northerly course through the county of Lillard, and empties into the Missouri on the right side, a few miles below Blue-water river.
La Charbonniere, the name given to a coal bank on the right shore of the Missouri, near Florissant, and about 12 miles above its confluence with the Mississippi. The river at this place runs north of east, and the hill or bluff approaches it from the south. It is about 4 or 500 yards in length, and from 150 to 200 feet in height. The summit appears like a clay bank. The stratum of coal is from 8 to 12 feet in thickness. It is overlaid by shale, slate, and secondary limestone. The coal is directly at the edge of the water, and can be thrown from its bed into the boats. It is of a very good quality, but contains a considerable quantity of bitumen. The blacksmiths in St. Charles and the vicinity, make use of it; and as the quantity contained in the bank is immense, it will probably become a valuable article of export.
La Mine river, runs a southeast course through the counties of Saline and Cooper, and empties into the Missouri on the right side, about 200 miles above its junction with the Mississippi. It is 70 yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable for some distance. Lead ore and salt springs are abundant on the banks of this stream.
Les Mamelles, the termination of the bluffs of the Mississippi and Missouri, three miles east of St. Charles. Their form resembles that of human breasts, and hence their name. They are about 100 feet above the surrounding plain, and command an extensive view in different directions.
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Little Bonne-Femme, a creek of Boone county, runs a devious southerly course, and falls into the Missouri, in township 45 north, in range 12, west of the 5th principal meridian. It is valuable for mill-seats.Little Chariton river, a stream of Chariton county, runs a southerly course, and empties into the Missouri on the left side witli Grand Chariton, in township 51 north, in range 17, west of the 5th principal meridian. It is about 30 yards wide at its mouth, and is navigable 50 or 60 miles.
Little Chenel Ebert, a small stream of Lillard county, (commonly called Little Snybar,) runs a north course, and empties into the Missouri in township 51 north, in range 28, west of the 5th principal meridian, 12 miles above Talbot creek. This stream, about five miles from the Missouri, is crossed by a chain of rocks, forming a natural mill-dam. Above this is a pond of four or five acres, and the water from it passes through an opening in the rock, which might be closed with a small gate.
Little Fabba creek, a trifling stream of Rails county, runs a southeast course, and empties into Fabba creek, near its junction with the Mississippi.
Little Gravel river, rises near the Missouri river, and running a southeast course, falls into the left side of the Osage river, about 100 miles above its confluence with the Missouri.
Little Manitou creek, a small stream of Cole county, runs a northeast course, and empties into the Missouri on the right side, two miles above the mouth of Little Bonne-femme.
Little Merrimack, a small tributary of the Merrimack.
Little Muddy river, a considerable stream of Callaway county, runs a southerly course, and empties into the Missouri, about 120 miles above its mouth, in township 45 north, in range 8, west of the 5th principal meridian. It affords a number of fine mill-seats. The lands on its banks are undulating and uneven, but in many places fertile.
Little Pine fork, a branch of the Gasconade, emptying in on the right side: course northwest.
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Little Prairie, a settlement on the Mississippi river, about 30 miles below New-Madrid. It was commenced by a party of traders in the year 1795, and was for some time in a flourishing situation. In 1799 the population amounted to about 400, and a considerable quantity of surplus produce was annually exported to the south. Since this time, this settlement appears to have been constantly declining. In 1803, the population did not exceed 150 souls. The following observations from an interesting workLost creek, a small stream of Montgomery county, runs a south course, and empties into the Missouri in township 45 north, in range S, west of the 5th principal meridian. Pinkney, the seat of justice of Montgomery, is situated near the mouth of this stream.
Louisiana, a post town, and the seat of justice of Pike county, situated on the south bank of Salt river, at its confluence with the Mississippi, in township 54 north, in range 1, west of the 5th principal meridian. It is rapidly increasing in population, and from the advantages which it possesses, promises to become of considerable importance. By an act of the legislature passed during the last session, an academy was established at this place, under the government of seven trustees. These trustees shall be elected in the same manner, perform the same duties, and be entitled to the same privileges, as provided for by the act establishing an academy in the towns of St. Charles and Franklin; Provided, that there shall be no compulsion to teach the French language in the said Louisiana academy.
Louisiana is in latitude 59° 25' north; 80 miles northwest of St. Charles.
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Loutre river, a stream of Montgomery county, runs a southeast course, and empties into the Missouri in township 46 north, in range 5, west of the 5th principal meridian, ten miles below the confluence of the Gasconade. It affords a number of excellent mill-seats; and on its borders are some fine districts of farming land. Loutre island is in the Missouri, opposite the mouth of this stream, and is twelve miles in length. The soil is very fertile, and it has a compact settlement. On the head waters of this stream are said to be ancient works, similar to those on the Mississippi, for a description of which the reader is referred to Noyer creek.Madansburgh, a town in Perry county, 15 miles south of St. Genevieve, near Saline creek. There are extensive salt-works here, from whence a great proportion of the salt consumed in the interior is procured. The springs are very strongly impregnated, and are considered lasting.
Manitou creek, a small stream of Howard county, runs a south course, and empties into the Missouri on the left side, a few miles below the town of Franklin. It received its name from the Indians, in consequence of some singular productions of nature in the vicinity, which they suppose are frequently visited by the Manitou, or Great Spirit. (See Cedar creek.) This stream is sometimes called Grand or Big Manitou, by way of distinction from Little Manitou below.
Marais Croche, a small French settlement near St. Charles.
Marais des Liards, see Village a Robert.
Marthasville, a small post town in Montgomery county, situated on a bluff, about a half mile from the Missouri river and Old Charrette village, 40 miles from St. Charles, on the road leading from thence to Franklin. It lies on a beautiful ridge, commanding a fine view of the river, and containing several springs of good water. There is also in the vicinity a large quantity of good timber. Charrette creek, on which are several valuable mill seats, empties, into the Missouri, a short distance above the town.
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Mast creek, a small stream, empties into the Missouri on the right side, a short distance above the mouth of Cedar creek. It was so named by Capts. Lewis and Clarke.Merrimack river, a large navigable stream, rises near the head waters of the Gasconade, in the range of hills in the interior of the state, and running a devious course, empties into the Mississippi, 18 miles below St. Louis. It is swelled by a number of tributaries, the largest of which are Little Merrimack, Bourbeuse, Fourche a Courtois and Big river. The lands on the borders of this stream are in many places fertile, but generally high, broken and sterile. Near its sources are extensive pine forests, in the vicinity of which, several saw mills are about to be erected.
It is formerly supposed, that silver ore was abundant on the hanks of the Merrimack, but this opinion has long since been abandoned. They contain, however, lead, iron, gypsum, salt, and according to Mr. Schoolcraft, manganese.
According to Mr. Bradbury, fossil bones have been found a short distance from this stream. He observes -- "A salt lick, about three miles from the Merrimack river, and 12 from St. Louis, several bones have been discovered, evidently belonging to the same species of mammoth as those found on the Ohio, and in Orange county, state of New York."
Ancient works of various kinds are found on the banks of the Merrimack, such as mounds, ancient pottery, arrow heads, &c. The dwarf skeletons which excited so much attention, were found on its banks, near the plantation of Mr. Long.
About six years since, a town was laid off on the banks of this stream, 30 miles west of St. Louis, and about the same distance southwest of St. Charles, called Merrimack. This river is navigable to this place at all seasons, and the landing opposite the town site is very good. The main road from St. Charles to Potosi passes through this place, as also from the upper
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settlements on the Merrimack, Gasconade, Boeuf, &c. It is surrounded by a fertile country, and will probably become a rich and populous settlement; but it is doubtful whether much improvement will for many years be made in the town.Mexico, a town in Callaway county, situated on the north bank of the Missouri, at the mouth of Muddy river. It is surrounded by a fertile and thickly settled country.
Mineral Fork, a small branch of Big river, in Washington county.
Mine River, see La Mine.
Military Bounty Tract. Five hundred thousand acres of land have been selected in this state by the general government, for the military bounties. These lands lie in townships 53, 54, 55, and 56 north, in ranges 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, and 23, west of the 5th principal meridian, and are at present included within the boundaries of Ray and Chariton counties. The tract is generally fertile, but is not so well watered as is usually the case in a country so uneven. Near the rivers and water courses, it is generally well timbered. Small prairies are occasionally found near the rivers; but receding from them they become more frequent and larger, till, at the distance of 25 or 30 miles, and sometimes in 10 miles or less, the timber becomes lost in general
prairie.
In conformity with the plan adopted under the head of Illinois Military Bounty Tract, I shall here present an abstract of the laws of this state, in regard to the recording of deeds and payment of taxes.
Two sections in the laws we precisely the same in hace verba, as the first and third sections in the laws of Illinois. (See pages 128, 189, 130.)
All deeds and conveyances which shall be made and executed within this district [territory] of or concerning any lands or hereditaments therein, or whereby the same may be in any way
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effected in law or equity, shall be acknowledged by one of the grantors or bargainers, or proved by one or more of the subscribing witnesses to such deed before one of the judges of the general [superior] court, or before one of the justices of the court of common pleasIt shall and may be lawful for any judge of the court of common pleas [circuit court] within this territory, or for any justice of the peace of the district, [county] where the land lies, to take the examination of witnesses to any deed or conveyance, or the acknowledgment of grantors in any deed or conveyance for lands in the mariner and form as is provided by an act, entitled "An act for establishing recorders' offices."
The clerks of the circuit courts in their respective counties, shall have the same power of taking the acknowledgment and proof of deeds and conveyances of lands and tenements, lying in any part of this territory, as any judge of the superior or circuit courts in this territory, or any justice of the peace of the county where the lands lie, have now by law. Provided, such acknowledgment or proof be attested by said clerk under his official seal.
All deeds and conveyances of any lands or tenements in this territory, made and executed, by any persons not residing within this territory, which shall be acknowledged or proved before any court of record, and certified under the seal of such court of record; and all such deeds and conveyances made and executed by such persons not residing in this territory, as shall be
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acknowledged or proved before any mayor, chief magistrate, or other officer of any city, town or place, where such deeds or conveyances shall be made or executed, and certified under the common or public seal of such city, town or place, where they have a public seal, if not under the private seal of such mayor, chief magistrate or other public officer, shall be as valid and effectual in law, as if the same had been acknowledged or proved before any judge of the superior or circuit courts in this territory, or before any justice of the peace of the county where the lands or tenements lie.From and after the taking effect of this act, [1st April, 1817] in all cases where any person shall purchase any real estate within this territory, from any person having the equitable, but not the legal title thereof, and which purchase shall be attested by a deed in the form of a deed and conveyance, or by a bond to make a title to the real estate so sold, or by any other instrument of writing, signed by the party to be charged therewith, or by any other person duly authorised to sign the same for him, it shall and may be lawful for the person so purchasing, after proving the execution thereof, to exhibit the said deed, bond or instrument in writing, to be recorded in the recorder's office in the same county, wherein the said real estate is situated, where it shall be received and recorded in the same manner and upon the same conditions as are provided by law for mesne conveyances, and any such deed, bond, or instrument in writing so recorded, shall impart, from the day of recording the same, full and perfect notice to all persons of the sale of the land therein mentioned, and all subsequent purchasers of the same land, shall be deemed and held in law and equity to the purchasers, with notice of the prior sale, and shall gain no right to the prejudice of the first purchaser.
All deeds, conveyances, bonds and other obligations for lands, tenements or hereditaments hereafter made and proven or acknowledged before any competent authority, shall be recorded in the county in which such lands, tenements or hereditaments are situate, within three months from the date thereof, or the same shall be void against subsequent purchasers, so recording the said deeds, conveyances, bonds, or other obligations within the time prescribed by this section.
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All deeds, conveyances, bonds and obligations, for the conveyance of lands, tenements or hereditaments, lying and being situated in this territory, and the right of dower therein and thereto and therein, may be acknowledged before any justice of the peace in this territory in the manner and under the same restrictions as are now provided by law.
For recording any deed, mortgage, or other instrument, per sheet of one hundred words, $0 15
Certificate and seal, 0 20
There shall also be paid on each deed or mortgage recorded, a tax of fifty cents, to be paid down.
There shall be levied and collected as a territorial tax, on all lands within this territory claimed as a complete title, and on all lands confirmed or granted by the board of commissioners, or the recorder of land titles of this territory, and on all lands claimed or confirmed by any act of congress, a tax of sixty cents for every hundred arpents, and so in proportion for a greater or less quantity.
All lands hereby made taxable, and owned or claimed by non-residents, shall be entered or listed by such non-resident, his, her, or their agent, with the auditor of public accounts for this territory, on or before the first day of July next. And the auditor shall keep a book, in which he shall carefully enter each and every tract or claim of land hereby made taxable, and owned or claimed by non-residents, stating the nature of the claim, the quantity of land, the county and water course where the same
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is situated. And it shall be the duty of the auditor, in all cases where the lands are owned or claimed by non-residents hereby made taxable, and not listed or entered with him for taxation as aforesaid, to list and enter the same himself, from the best information he can procure, which it is hereby made his duty as far as practicable to acquire. And the said auditor shall, on or before the first day of August in every year, forward to the sheriff or collector of each county in this territory, a list of lands owned or claimed by non-residents, situated in his county, whereupon the sheriff or collector shall be bound to receipt therefor to the auditor, and proceed to the collection of the tax due on all lands contained in said list, and pay the same over in the same manner, and under the same regulations and penalties as are provided by this act. Passed January 21, 1813.Where any tract or parcel of land owned or claimed by any non-resident, and listed with the auditor, shall be sold or transferred, it shall be the duty of the purchaser, if he be a non-resident, to file with said auditor on or before the day that he makes his annual list to forward to the different sheriffs as aforesaid, a duly certified copy of his or her deed or transfer, whereupon the auditor shall enter or list the same for taxation, in the name of the purchaser. And no sale, change, or transfer of any tract of land contained in the auditor's list, shall in any manner affect or prevent the collection of taxes due thereon at the time of such sale, change or transfer.
And in all cases where the sheriff cannot find sufficient personal property whereon to levy and make distress for the payment of taxes according to the provisions of this act, it shall and may be lawful for the sheriff to sell at the court-house door of the county, by public sale, on the first Monday of November annually, so much of each tract of land chargeable for taxes, as will be sufficient to pay the amount of taxes due thereon, and the said sheriff shall, previous to such sale, give notice thereof, at least sixty days, by an advertisement in some newspaper printed in this territory, or in case there be none printed in this territory, then in some newspaper printed in the next adjoining territory or state, and by advertising at the court-house door, the time and place of sale, particularly describing the land and the different tracts to be sold. And the sheriff shall deliver
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to the purchaser a certificate of the quantity of land sold, describing therein the tract which was chargeable with taxes. And the part so sold shall be taken as near as may be in a square, and it shall adjoin one or other of the outlines or corners of the survey of such tract of land, so as not to include an improvement if to be avoided. And a designation of the parts so sold, shall be made by the sheriff at the time of such sale. And in case where the claim, or part of a claim of land sold for taxes under this act, shall not have been surveyed by the proper authority of the United States, or shall be so uncertain as to locality or identity, that the county surveyor cannot ascertain the boundaries of the claim, the purchaser shall be entitled as near as possible to the part designated by the sheriff's advertisement for the sale of such land, and the land itself to be laid off as soon as the claim shall be identified.The surveyor of the county, on the receipt of the sheriff's certificate of land sold for taxes, shall, by himself or deputy, proceed to survey and lay off the quantity of land, agreeable to said certificate, and charge the expense of making a survey and plat thereof to the purchaser, or his or her heirs or assigns; and on the plat and certificate of survey being presented to the sheriff or his successors in office, it shall be his duty to convey the same to such purchaser, or his heirs or assigns, by deed in due form of law executed, which survey and deed shall vest in the purchaser, or his or her heirs or assigns, all the right, title, claim, and interest to the said lands, (the right of the United States only excepted,) to the part so sold. But the said sheriff may nevertheless convey any lot or tract of land sold for taxes, without having the same surveyed, when the whole tract or lot is sold: Provided, That if any person or persons, his, her, or their lawful agent or attorney, shall, within twelve months from and after the day of sale, pay or tender to the said pun baser, his, her, or their legal heirs or representatives, or lawful agent or attorney, the amount of such tax, together with the costs of sale and survey, and one hundred per cent interest per annum on the same, and likewise to pay to the purchaser for all improvements that are made by said purchaser on said land, at their just and real value, his, her, or their lands shall therefrom be discharged and redeemed from such sale: Provided however, That nothing
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herein contained shall be considered in law as a bar to the right or equity of redemption, which any infant, person of unsound mind, in captivity, or beyond the limits of the United States, or in the military service of the United States, may have in the land so sold: And provided also, That the tax on said land, together with the interest thereon, and an equitable compensation for improvements made on said land, be tendered to the purchaser or his assigns, within one year after such disabilities be removed.The lien which the territory has on any tract or tracts of land, or claims thereto, for the payment of taxes imposed and due thereon, shall not be affected by any transfer whatever; and all sales of any tract or tracts of land, or claim thereto, by the sheriff or other proper officer, according to the provisions of the act to which this is a supplement, shall be deemed good and valid, in whose name so ever the said land or claim thereto shall be entered or sold, unless he, she, or they contesting the validity thereof, shall shew that the tax had actually been paid thereon, which in all cases shall be the first thing required of any one attempting to set aside a sale under this, or the act to which this is a supplement.
If any tract of land, or claim thereto of either residents or non-residents, will not, when exposed to sale as aforesaid, sell for the taxes and costs due thereon, it shall be struck off to the territory, who shall be considered the purchaser thereof; and it shall be the duty of the sheriff making such sale, to make a title for the same to the governor of the territory, and his successors in office for the time being, in trust to and for the use of the said territory, in such manner as the other titles are by him made to other purchasers; and the governor shall, on such titles being made to him, draw on the territorial treasurer in favour of the sheriff, for the amount of all costs due to him on such sales, who shall pay the same accordingly.
From a law of congress, entitled "An act establishing a separate territorial government in the southern part of the territory of Missouri," passed March 2, 1819.
That the bounty lands granted, or hereafter to be granted for military services during the late war, shall, while they continue
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to be held by the patentees or their heirs, remain exempt from all taxes for the term of three years from and after the date of the patents respectively.Missouriton, a town in Ray county, laid off in 1819, on section 14, township 51, in range 24, on the north side of the Missouri river. It is surrounded by a fine body of land, which is rapidly increasing in population. On the opposite side, are large quantities of stone coal, and limestone. The bank is elevated, and protected by a large island immediately above, which throws the current on the other side, and at the point of which is a safe harbor for the anchorage of boats. A ferry has been established from the town.
Monroe, a post town in Lincoln county, situated on the Riviere au Cuivre, 18 miles from St. Charles, and 3 west of the Mississippi river. The town site is fine, being a dry sandy soil. The Cuivre is navigable to this place, and the town is surrounded by a country of rich land, partly timbered and partly prairie. Above are several mill seats.
Moreau creek, a small stream, 20 yards in width, empties into the Missouri on the right side, 138 miles above its month.
Moscow, a town in Lincoln county, is handsomely situated on the right bank of Riviere au Cuivre, 10 miles above Monroe, on the road from St. Charles to Salt river.
Mount Vernon, the seat of justice of Lillard, situated on the Missouri, half a mile below Talbot creek, about 12 miles below Chenel Ebert, and about 30 miles below Fort Osage. It is on a high bluff, commanding a fine view of the river and the adjacent country for some distance. The surrounding country is generally fertile, but is rather deficient in timber.
Murphy's Settlement, a flourishing settlement of St. Francois county, extending along the main road from St. Louis to Arkansas and Red river. There is a post-office here.
Negro fork, a considerable branch of the Merrimack river.
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New Bourbon, a small French village, situated on a bluff, two miles below St. Genevieve. It was settled about the same time with St. Genevieve, and at present contains about 50 or 60 houses. The inhabitants are principally French.New London, the county seat of Rails, situated on the range line, between 4 and 5 west of the 5th principal meridian, and in township 56 north, 1 mile south of Salt river. The site is high and commanding, being on the borders of a prairie. The town contains 30 and 40 houses and cabins, and is rapidly increasing. It possesses some advantages; among these, are good mill seats, quarries of building stone, abundance of timber, and numerous salt licks in the adjacent country. This town is laid off into squares of 2 acres each, which are again subdivided into 4 lots each. From the general character of the salt river country, it appears probable that this will become a point of some consequence.
New-London is in lat. 39° 30' north, 8 miles southwest of Saverton, on the Mississippi, and 75 miles northwest of St. Charles.
New-Madrid, a post town of New-Madrid county, situated on the Mississippi river, about 70 miles below the mouth of the Ohio, and formerly called l'Ause a la gresse. It was laid out in the year 1787, by Col. G. Morgan, of New-Jersey, upon a very extensive scale. "In consequence of some obstacles to his designs, created by the Spanish government, he finally abandoned his pursuits, and retired from the country. The town is bounded on the north by the bayou St. John, which always affords plenty of water, and on the south by a creek, which heads in a cypress swamp in the rear of the town, and is generally destitute of water in the dry seasons. The river never rises so high as to inundate the town: But the banks of it are very unstable; portions of them annually cave in; the houses were originally erected over the present channel, and the inhabitants are annually obliged to remove some of them, otherwise they would be destroyed; and the probability is, that the encroachments of the river will eventually scatter the population of this place.
"The town was originally so laid out as to extend, as the French express it, forty acres in length along the river; the back
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part was contracted to twenty acres, on account of some swamps, and the depth was sixteen acres. It contained ten streets, running parallel with the river, and eighteen others crossing at right angles. The former were sixty feet, and the latter forty-five feet in breadth. Six squares were also laid out, and reserved for the use of the town, each of which contained two acres. -- A street of one hundred and twenty feet in breadth was likewise reserved on the bank of the river."In 1799, New-Madrid was in a nourishing situation, and contained upwards of 800 inhabitants. Since this time, owing to the encroachments of the river, and the earthquakes in 1811 and 12, it has been constantly declining. The public works and several spacious streets, have been carried away by the former, and by the latter, large ponds of water have formed in some places, and huge heaps of earth thrown up in others. In fine, the appearance of the whole plain upon which the town was laid out, is completely changed. Houses, gardens and fields were swallowed up by this subterraneous concussion. Many of the inhabitants were exposed to the inclemency of the weather, without shelter and without protection. The horror of their situation cannot easily be pourtrayed. The earth rolled under their feet like the waves of the sea, and opened on every side, and each expected the next moment to be received into its bosom.
The following account of some of the effects produced by these earthquakes, is extracted from a valuable article,
"On the 6th day of January, 1812, during the earthquakes
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miles around, I happened to be passing in its neighborhood, where the principal shock took place. The violence of the earthquake having disturbed the earthy strata impending over the subterranean cavities, existing probably in an extensive bed of wood highly carbonized, occasioned the whole superior mass to settle. This, pressing with all its weight upon the water that had filled the lower cavities, occasioned a displacement of this fluid, which forced its passage through. Mowing up the earth with loud explosions. It rushed out in all quarters, bringing with it an enormous quantity of carbonized wood, reduced mostly into dust, which was ejected to the height of from ten to fifteen feet, and fell in a black shower, mixed with the sand, which its rapid motion had forced along; at the same time the roaring and whistling produced by the impetuosity of the air escaping from its confinement, seemed to increase the horrible disorder of the trees, which every where encountered each other, being blown up, cracking, and splitting, and falling by thousands at a time. In the mean time, the surface was sinking, and a black liquid was rising to the belly of my horse, who stood motionless, struck with a panic of terror."These occurrences occupied nearly two minutes; the trees shaken in their foundation, kept falling here and there, and the whole surface of the country remained covered with holes, which, to compare small things with great, resembled so many craters to volcanoes, surrounded with a ring of carbonized wood and sand, which rose to the height of about seven feet.
"I had occasion, a few months after, to sound the depths of several of these holes, and found them not to exceed twenty feet; but I must remark the quicksand had washed into them. The country here was formerly perfectly level, and covered with numerous small prairies of various sizes, dispersed through the woods. Now it is covered with slaches, (ponds) and sand-hills or mounticules, which are found principally where the earth was formerly the lowest; probably because in such places the water broke through with more facility.
"A circumstance worth noticing, was a tendency to carbonization that I perceived in all vegetable productions soaking in the ponds, produced by these eruptions. It was about seven months after the event had taken place, that I had occasion to
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make these remarks on the spot before mentioned. The same earthquake produced a lake between St. Francis and Little Prairie, distant twenty-seven miles from the Mississippi river. This lake resembles much the lake on Red river, inasmuch as the trees are standing upright in all of them, and sunk about thirty feet when the water is high. They are all evidently modern lakes, whose beds were, not long since, part of the forest."
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It may be observed, that congress, at a subsequent session, granted to those who had suffered by the earthquakes in the county of New-Madrid, an equivalent of land in other parts of the state, the sale of which is authorised by law.
It has been previously stated that New-Madrid has been declining for many years. The following description, given by an eminent traveller,
"New-Madrid is an insignificant French hamlet, containing little more than 20 log houses and stores, miserably supplied, the goods of which are retailed at exorbitant prices: for example, 18 cents per pound for lead, which costs seven cents at Herculaneum; salt, five dollars per bushel; sugar, 31 1-4 cents per pound; whiskey, one dollar 25 cents per gallon; apples, 25 cents per dozen; corn, 50 cents per bushel; fresh butter, 87 1-2 cents per pound; eggs, the same per dozen; pork, six dollars per hundred; beef, five dollars. Still the neighbouring land appears to be of good quality; but people have been discouraged from settling in consequence of the earthquakes, which, besides the memorable one of 1811, are very frequently experienced, two or three oscillations being sometimes felt in a day."
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"The site of the town, as we learn from La Vega, the historian of Soto, bears unequivocal marks of an aboriginal station; still presenting the remains of some low mounds, which as usual abound with fragments of earthen ware."The country in the vicinity of New-Madrid is very fertile. It consists of a vast plain, handsomely diversified with woodland and prairie. There are, however, several ponds, which in dry seasons become stagnant, and give rise to bilious disorders. But this place is perhaps less subject, to these than would naturally be supposed. Indeed, it is asserted by some that its situation is healthy; but I am inclined to believe that this opinion is founded on a limited knowledge of facts. Mr. Brackenridge observes, "New-Madrid is considered healthy, and from my own experience, I am convinced of the justness of this character. There is nothing more delightful than a promenade on a summer evening, on the smooth green along the bank. The climate is mild and agreeable: in the hottest days of summer, a cool and refreshing breeze is felt from the river. The spring is comparatively early. I gathered strawberries here on the 20th of April, and at St. Louis in June."
Near this place are a number of mounds, and among them is one of the largest in the western country. It is about twelve hundred feet in circumference, and forty in height: it is level on the top, and is surrounded by a ditch several feet in width. It is situated on the margin of a beautiful lake, four or five miles below the town.
One of the authors before quoted,
In fine, in regard to its antiquities, no part of Missouri is more interesting than the vicinity of New-Madrid.
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Newport, a small town, and the seat of justice of Franklin county, situated at the junction of Buffaloe river with the Missouri, in township 45 north, in range 2, west of the 5th principal meridian. It contains 30 or 40 houses, and the number is gradually increasing. The neighbouring lands are generally rough, hilly, and unproductive.Newport is in latitude 38° 35', about 50 miles southwest of St. Charles.
Nightingale creek, empties into the Missouri on the left side, 140 miles above its mouth. (Lewis and Clark.)
North river, a stream of Rails county, runs in an easterly direction, and falls into the Mississippi, in the southern part of township 58 north, 5 west, near South river. The two streams are generally called Two Rivers. The lands on this river are generally very fertile. It is about 75 yards wide at its mouth.
Noyer creek, a trifling stream, runs an easterly course through Pike county, and empties into the Mississippi, two miles below the mouth of Salt river. It is principally noted on account of the singular ancient works found on its banks, about two miles southwest of the town of Louisiana. They are built of stone, with great regularity, and their site is high and commanding, from which I am led to infer, that they were intended for places of defence. Works of a similar kind are found on the banks of Buffaloe creek, and on the Osage river. They certainly form a class of antiquities entirely distinct from the walled towns, fortifications, barrows, or mounds. The regularity of their form and structure favors the conclusion, that they were the work of a more civilized race than those who erected the former -- a race familiar with the rules of architecture, and perhaps with a perfect system of warfare. The annexed engraving will illustrate the form of these works.
Fig. 1, faces the southeast.
ABCD Outer wall, 18 inches in thickness; length 56 feet; breadth 22 feet.
(All the walls consist of rough unhewn stone, and appear
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to have been constructed with remarkable regularity. Although they are at present considerably decayed, their form is still distinct.)E is a chamber, 3 feet in width, which was no doubt arched the whole way, as some part of tile arch still remains. It is made in the manner represented in Fig. 3, and is seldom more than five feet above the surface of the ground; but as it is filled with rubbish, it is impossible to say what was its original height.
F is a chamber, 4 feet wide, and in some places the remains of a similar arch still remain.
G is a chamber, 12 feet in width, at the extremity of which are the remains of a furnace.
H is a large room, walled with two entrances, I and K. It is covered with a thick growth of trees.
The walls are at present from two to five feet in height.
One of the trees in the work is two feet in diameter.
Fig. 2, is a smaller work, about 80 rods due east from the former.
A and C are two chambers, without any apparent communication with B.
B is a room nearly circular, with one gate or entrance.
The walls are similar to the former.
For the account of these interesting antiquities, I am chiefly indebted to the Rev. S. Giddings, of St. Louis, who visited them a few years since, and sketched a plan, of which this is a copy. It should be remarked, that in the passage G, (Fig. 1) several human bones have recently been found.
Osage, a town in Cole county, situated at the confluence of Osage river with the Missouri. The site is fine, and the surrounding country, in many places, fertile; in others, hilly and barren. There is an abundance of good timber in the vicinity, among which is pine and cedar. This place is as yet nearly in a state of nature; but it would appear probable from its situation at the junction of two large streams, and its vicinity
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to the permanent capital of the state, that it was destined to become a town of some importance.Osage fork of the Merrimack, heads near the Osage, and empties into the Merrimack on the left side. It is a small stream, and crosses the road leading from the settlements on Fourche a Courtois to those on the Gasconade.
Osage river, rises in the range of hills, which separates the waters of the Kansas from those of the Arkansas, near the junction of the Smoaky Hill fork with the former. Its course, which is, however, very devious, is generally a little north of east, and it empties into the Missouri, about 130 miles above its mouth. A considerable number of tributaries empty into it from the north and south, the principal of which are Little Osage, Grand River, Yungar or Meungar, Cooks, and Vermilion rivers.
"The Osage affords, in its whole length large bodies of the choicest prairie land, interspersed with wood land, and occasionally with hills, and is navigable for moderate sized boats for several hundred miles. Its banks afford immense beds of stone coal, and some iron and lead is found, and its upper forks reach into the country of the Pawnees -- a country rich in salt. It is a beautiful stream, and situated in a delightful climate; and when its borders are opened for emigration, and its resources properly drawn forth, will support a vast population and a profitable trade. Of this stream, emigrants, and the people of this territory generally, know less than their interests demand. Its fertile soil, genial climate, and great length, entitle it to the rank of one of the first tributaries of the Missouri." (Schoolcraft.)
The Osage owes its name to a nation inhabiting its banks at a considerable distance from the Missouri. Their present name, however, seems to have originated among the French traders; for among themselves and their neighbours they are called Wabashes. They number between 12 and 1300 warriors, and consist of three tribes: the Great Osages, of about 500 warriors, living in a village on the south bank of the river; the Little Osages, of nearly half that number, residing at the distance of six miles from them; and the Arkansas band, a colony of Osages of 600 warriors, who left them some years ago, under the
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command of a chief called Big Foot, and settled on Vermilion river, a branch of the Arkansas. In person, the Osages are among the largest and best formed Indians, and are said to possess fine military capacities; but residing as they do in villages, and having made considerable advance in agriculture, they seem less addicted to war than their northern neighbours, to whom the use of rifles gives a great superiority. (Lewis and Clark.)Ancient works exist on this river, as elsewhere; the remains of mounds and fortifications are almost every where to be seen. One of the largest mounds in this country has been thrown up on this stream, within the last 30 or 40 years, by the Osages, near the Great Osage village, in honour of one of their deceased chiefs. This fact proves conclusively the original object of these mounds, and refules the theory that they must necessarily have been erected by a race of men more civilized than the present tribes of Indians. Were it necessary, numerous other facts might be adduced to prove that the mounds are no other than the tombs of their great men.
Mammoth bones are said to have been found on the banks of the Osage, but their precise locality is not known. It is, however, certain that they have been found, both on the Merrimack, and near the waters of the Osage. Mr. Bradbury observes, "Gen. Clark showed me a tooth brought from the interior: it was a grinder, and belonged to the animal mentioned by Cuvier, and called by him mastodonte avec dents carres.
Osage Woman river, see Femme Osage.
Otter river, see Loutre river.
Owen's station, a settlement in St. Louis county, west of St. Ferdinand. Here was formerly a small fort and station, for the defence of the inhabitants against the Indians.
Palmyra, a post town in Rails county, laid out in 1820, on the corners of sections 23, 24, 25 and 26, of township 58 north, in range 6, west of the 5th principal meridian. It contains 10 or 12 houses, among which are a store and tavern. The surrounding country is fertile and well timbered. About a mile and a half from the town are two good mill-seats, between North and South rivers.
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Park river, a branch of the Osage, emptying in on the right side.Peno creek, a small stream of Pike county, runs a northerly course, and empties into Salt river on the right side, about 25 miles above its junction with the Mississippi.
Perrique creek, a small mill stream of St. Charles county, running an easterly course, and emptying into the Mississippi about 15 miles above the mouth of the Illinois. There are several fine mill-seats on this stream, and the country on its borders is generally very fertile. Near the Mississippi it is heavily timbered; in other parts, prairie land is handsomely interspersed.
Perrysville, the seat of justice of Perry county, laid out in 1822. It is 10 miles west of the Barrens. No improvement has as yet been made.
Petite Saline, (Salt fork of La Mine river,) runs through the northern part of Saline county, and empties into La Mine river about nine miles above its junction with the Missouri. There are a number of large and valuable salines on this stream, and much of the land on it is first rate. La Mine river is navigable to the mouth of Salt fork, for boats of any size. The water is said to be impregnated with salt as strongly as sea-water, from the month of June to that of November.
Pine fork, (Big and Little) branches of the Gasconade, emptying in on the right side.
Pine river, see Big North fork of White river.
Pinkney, a post town, and the seat of justice of Montgomery county, on the north bank of the Missouri, about two and a half miles above where the line dividing ranges 2 and 3, west of the 5th principal meridian, strikes said river. The site is low, and in some seasons of the year it is difficult to reach it, on account of the number of sloughs and ponds by which it is surrounded. It contains eight or nine houses and cabins. The county seat will probably be removed to a more central and eligible situation.
This town is in latitude 38° 35' north, 8 miles above Newport,
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and about 55 miles southwest of St. Charles. It is surrounded by a fertile district of country, watered by Lost and Charrette creeks.Platten creek, runs an easterly course through Jefferson county, and empties into the Mississippi 7 or 8 miles below Herculaneum.
Poke bayou, a branch of White river, a small part of which is included within the boundaries of this state.
Portage des Sioux, a village of St. Charles county, inhabited principally by the French. It is situated on the Mississippi, about five miles below the mouth of the Illinois. At this place the Mississippi and Missouri rivers are about half a mile apart, and it is contemplated at some future time to unite them by means of a canal, which would be of immense advantage, not only to this village, but to the surrounding country.
Portage des Sioux derived its name from the following circumstance: -- The Sioux and a tribe of the Missouris being at war, a party of the former descended the Mississippi on a pillaging expedition. The Missouris were apprised of their approach, and ambushed themselves at the mouth of the Missouri in considerable numbers, intending to take their enemies by surprise. The Sioux being more cunning, instead of descending to the mouth of the Missouri, landed at the Portage, took their canoes on their backs, and crossed over to the Missouri several miles above. By this means they accomplished the object of their expedition, and returned with their spoil undiscovered; during all which time, the Missouris were anxiously waiting for them at the mouth of the Missouri.
The situation of Portage des Sioux is favourable for a large town. There are a few ponds in the vicinity, which might with little expense, be completely drained. The village contains about 50 or 60 houses, which are principally inhabited by the French, who are extremely jealous of the Americans, and are unwilling to sell any of their houses or lots. This place, however is considered by many so important, that it cannot long remain in this situation. These prejudices will soon vanish before the enterprise and industry of the American citizens.
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Potosi, a post town, and the seat of justice of Washington county, is situated on a beautiful branch of Big river. With Mine a Burton, which was an old settlement in the immediate vicinity, it may consist of 80 buildings, including a court house, a jail, and an academy. When the county of Washington was separated from St. Genevieve, a tract of land of 40 acres was laid off for the county seat, to which the above name was given. This lies on a handsome eminence, a little north of the principal rivers. It is pleasantly situated in the centre of the mining districts, and is surrounded by several fine bodies of good tanning land. It has a very handsome appearance, although not so thriving as formerly. Here are several stores, distilleries and flour mills, a saw mill, and several lead furnaces. The quantity of lead made here from the year 1798 to 1816, was 9,360,000 lbs. (Schoolcraft.) For 3 or 4 after 1816, the yearly amount of lead made here was much diminished, in consequence of the decrease of the demand. During the last year, however, a greater quantity has been made than in any former year. The people of Missouri have now began to learn, that much of their wealth lies in the earth, and that it requires industry and enterprise to bring it forth.In 1817, an academy was incorporated in this place under the direction of seven trustees, who are elected annually. Every free white male inhabitant, of 21 years and upwards, and who shall have subscribed and paid five dollars towards said academy, and have resided in the county one year preceding such election, is entitled to a vote. This place, and the surrounding country, are remarkable for their healthiness. Few of the fevers which prevail in many other parts of the state during the summer and autumn, are observed here. A few cases of intermittent fever occur during the spring, but they are generally mild. Among the cattle, however, a very alarming disease prevails, called the mine sickness, and caused no doubt by their licking at the lead furnaces. In some cases they die instantly; in others, they are seized with convulsions, which continue for some time. Considering the importance of this subject, the legislature at their last session passed an act, the provisions of which are, that the owner or occupier of every lead furnace shall keep the same enclosed, with a good and lawful fence, for the distance of at least
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ten yards from any part of the said furnace or works, and in such a manner as to prevent horses, cattle or other stock from having access to the said enclosure; and also to keep the said fences and enclosures in good order and repair during the term of six months, after such furnaces or works have been last made use of for the smelting of lead. A heavy penalty follows a non-compliance with the provisions of this act.Potosi is in latitude 37° 55' north, 65 miles southwest of St. Louis, 45 west of St. Genevieve, and about 80, nearly south of St. Charles.
Ramsay's creek, a small stream of Pike county, empties into the Mississippi four or five miles below Calumet creek.
Richwood settlement, contains a large tract of first rate farming land, and is situated in the northern part of Washington county, near the line between it and Jefferson.
Riviere au Cuivre, see Cuivre river.
Riviere au Vase, see Big and Little Muddy rivers.
Riviere de la Pomme, see Apple creek.
Riviere des Peres, (River of the Fathers,) a small stream of St. Louis county, runs a southeasterly course, and empties into the Mississippi below the village of Carondelet. Its banks are generally timbered and very fertile; in some places level, in others gently undulating. The settlements on this stream were commenced at an early period by the Jesuits, from which circumstance it received its name. These have since entirely abandoned it, and they have been succeeded by Frenchmen and Americans. Six miles west of St Louis, a sulphur spring makes its appearance in the bed of this stream, opposite to a high bank, which probably contains iron ore. The water has the taste and smell of sulphuretted hydrogen. It is slightly cathartic, and powerfully sudorific. It frequently determines to the skin in such a manner as to produce an eruption over the whole body. To certain valetudinarians it may be serviceable, particularly those affected with complaints of the liver. Many of the inhabitants of St. Louis, thus affected, visit the springs during the
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summer with signal advantage; but I am inclined to believe that more benefit is derived from the removal from the confined and impure air of the town, than from the medicinal effect of the water. It is worthy of remark, that cattle are so excessively fond of this water, that they resort to it from all parts of the neighbouring country.A year or two since, a Roman coin, of a very rare kind, was found on the banks of the Riviere des Peres by an Indian, and presented to Gov. Clark. Whether this circumstance throws any light upon the ancient history of this country, is extremely doubtful. It is, however, in itself a curiosity worthy of a detailed description. This shall be given at some future time.
This river affords several fine mill-seats: its banks are in general thickly settled. In many places they are low, and subject to inundation. The alluvions, however, are very fertile, and yield abundant crops of corn, wheat, &c.
Roche Percee creek, a considerable stream of Boone county, runs a southerly course, and empties into the Missouri in township 47 north, in range 13, west of the 5th principal meridian, a few miles above the mouth of Little Bonne-Femme. It receives its name from a high craggy cliff on the Missouri, near its mouth, called by the French, Roche Percee; perforated or split rock.
Rock creek, a small stream, runs an easterly course through the counties of Cooper and Cole, and empties into the Missouri on the right side, in township 46 north, in range 13, west of the 5th principal meridian, a short distance above Howard's bluff.
Rogerstown, an Indian settlement in Franklin county, in township 42 north, in range 1, east of the 5th principal meridian, on one of the branches of the Merrimack.
Round Bend creeks. Two small streams, meandering through the southwestern part of Chariton county, and emptying into the Missouri on the left side, near each other, about five miles below the mouth of Grand river. "Between them is a prairie, in which once stood the ancient village of the Missouri's. Of
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this village there remains no vestige, nor is there any thing to recal this great and numerous nation, except a feeble remnant of about 30 families. They were driven from their original seats by the invasion of the Sauks and other Indians of the Mississippi, who destroyed at this village, 200 of them, and sought refuge near the little Osage, on the other side of the river. The encroachment of the same enemies forced, about 30 years since, both these nations from the banks of the Missouri. A few retired with the Osage, and the remainder found an asylum on the the river Platte, among the Ottoes, who are themselves declining. Opposite the plain, there was an island and a French fort, but there is now no appearance of either, the successive inundations having probably washed them away; as the Willow Island, which is in the situation described by Du Pratz, is small, and of recent formation." (Lewis and Clark.)Rush creek, a trifling stream, running through the southeastern part of Callaway county, and emptying into the Missouri on the left side.
Saline creek, a small stream of St. Genevieve and Perry counties, runs a northeast course, and empties into the Mississippi, about nine miles below the town of St. Genevieve. Salt springs are very numerous on its banks, and extensive works have already been established. They supply the surrounding country with salt, and afford a considerable surplus for export. The creek has one or two tributaries, which meander through some fertile tracts of land.
Saline creek, a stream of Cooper county, runs a very devious course, forming a semicircle, and empties into the Missouri river, near the southeast corner of township 48, in range 14, west of the 5th principal meridian, about 20 miles below Boonville. It receives its name from the number of salt springs and licks, which render its water brackish. The current of this stream is quite rapid, and its banks are continually falling in.
Salt fork of La Mine river, see Petite saline.
Salt river, (Riviere au Sel. Fr. Oahalwh, Ind.) a large stream rises in the highlands, dividing the waters of the Missouri from
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those of the Mississippi, and running a devious course through the counties of Rails and Pike, empties into the Mississippi in the northern part of township 54 north, in range 2, west of the 5th principal meridian. It receives several tributaries, among which are Spencer's, Peno, Grassy, and Sugar creeks. The lands on its borders are generally fertile; occasionally, however, the prairies are very extensive, particularly near its head waters. Salt springs are very abundant, and several salt works are already erected. The settlements in this section of country increased rapidly for several years, until about 1821, since which time the emigration has not been so great. The banks of Salt river have always been considered unhealthy.Sandy creek, a trifling stream of Jefferson county.
Saverton, a town of Rails county, in sections 17 and 18, in township 56 north, in range 3, west of the 5th principal meridian, on the west bank of the Mississippi. The site is high and healthy, but the surrounding country is not yet sufficiently settled to support a large town.
Shawnee village, is situated on Apple creek, and is the summer residence of a considerable number of Shawnee Indians.
Shepherd's creek, a small stream of Franklin county, running a northerly course, and emptying into the Missouri on the right side, 83 miles above its junction with the Mississippi, and a short distance above Buffaloe river.
Smithton, a small town, formerly the seat of justice of Boone county, which, during the last session of the legislature, was removed to Columbia.
Snake creek, a small stream, runs a southwest course, and empties into the Missouri on the left side, 246 miles above its mouth. Its name is derived from the snake bluffs, a short distance below.
Snybar creek, (Chenel Ebert) a small stream, runs a devious northerly course, through Lillard county, and empties into the Missouri on the right side, in township 50 north, in range 28, west of the 5th principal meridian, a short distance above Little
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Chenel-Ebert. These streams are called by Lewis and Clark Eau Beau, or clear water creeks.
South river, a small stream of Rails county, runs a northeasterly course, and Calls into the Mississippi, in the southern part of township 58 north, in range 5, west of the 5th principal meridian, near North river. From this circumstance, these two streams are generally called "Two Rivers." South River is called by Pike, Bar River.
Spencer's creek, a tributary of Salt river, empties on the right side.
Split Rock creek, see Roche Percee.
Spring river, rises in the mountains which traverse the southwestern part of the state, runs an easterly course, and falls into Big Black river. According to Schoolcraft, large quantities of black oxyd of manganese, are found between this stream and Eleven Point, another branch of Black river.
St. Andrew's creek, a small stream of St. Louis county, falls into the Missouri, above Bon Homme creek. On this creek is a very ancient settlement made by the French. In 1799, it contained 392 inhabitants, since which time it has been greatly increased by the Americans.
St. Charles, a flourishing post town, the seat of justice of St. Charles county, and the temporary capital of the state, is situated on the north bank of the Missouri, about 20 miles above its confluence with the Mississippi. It is built on a narrow space between the river and a considerable bluff, which admits of but one street. The site is elevated beyond the inundations of the river, but the bank if continually wearing away.
The town of St Charles was first founded by the French in 1780, by whom it was also called Pelte Cote, and they
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continued in possession of it for a long time. Its advantageous and healthy situation, however, soon attracted the attention of the Americans; and after the cession of Louisiana, it increased rapidly. Within the last few years its increase has been very considerable. The houses which have recently been built, are of brick, and generally of a uniform style. At present it contains about 1200 inhabitants; and it may safely be affirmed, that they are not surpassed in industry and enterprise. Being the present seat of government, it is the residence of the state officers.St. Charles, like the other French villages, had originally attached to it extensive common fields. As this system of owning property in common did not accord with the American notions, they determined, at any early period, to endeavour its destruction. It is indeed a system beautiful in theory, and speaks volumes in favor of the original settlers, inasmuch as it is at once a proof that they were united to each other by a complete community of interest: like a great family, in which there was no necessity for that nice division and distribution of property, and those rigid laws for its protection. But it is evident that this system is a complete damper to industry, and renders the situation of the inhabitants but little preferable to that of the savages. Each member of the community cultivates his allotment, which affords him barely a sufficiency for his subsistence -- his neighbour does the same; and consequently that stimulus to exertion, which continually exists in more civilized and differently constituted societies, is here completely lost. But when a community thus constituted, contented, indolent, and happy, with few wants, save those of food and clothing, is broken in upon by industry and enterprise, and the desire of wealth and power, the system of "common fields," common stock, and equal distribution of property, must either be demolished, or give place to dishonesty and fraud.
Such was the situation of St. Charles. In consequence of the rapid increase of Americans, their number was soon double that of the French, and all the affairs of the town were in a short time regulated by the former. As they were not in the least benefited by the common fields, which were rather an injury to the town, the trustees determined to dispose of them, to the end that
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they might become individual property, which would contribute greatly to its prosperity and increase. But these lands were granted to the town or village for the use of the inhabitants for ever, and therefore the trustees had no right to sell them. They accordingly passed an ordinance in 1821, the provisions of which were, that they should cause to be surveyed into streets, avenues, and town lots, conforming as near as possible to the original plan of the town, so much of the commons as they deemed necessary, and that the balance be surveyed into townships and sections, which shall be marked and numbered as the lands of the United States, and conform as near as practicable to the United States' surveys. That the clerk of the board shall, from time to time, lease for 10,000 years, so much of said commons at public venue as the board may direct, public notice having been previously given: Provided, the town lots do not lease for less than fifty dollars per lot, and the other lands for less than two dollars per acre. That the lessees shall pay into the town treasury six per cent per annum, on the amounts of their leases Provision is also made for the disposal of lots at private sale, subject to the above regulations.Immense advantages must accrue to St. Charles by the passage of this act. An additional number of lots is brought into market at a cheap rate. The surrounding country, which was formerly a waste, will soon be thickly settled and highly cultivated, and in addition to this, a very considerable revenue is secured to the town.
By an act of congress, passed in 1812, it was made the duty of the principal deputy surveyor to survey or cause to be surveyed and marked out, the boundary, lines of this town, so as to include the out-lots, common field lots, and commons, thereto respectively attached, and all the town lots, out-lots, or common field lots, included in such surveys, which are not rightfully owned or claimed by any private individuals, or held as commons belonging to the town, are reserved for the support of schools in said town: Provided, that the whole quantity of land contained in the lots reserved fur the support of schools, shall not exceed one-twentieth part of the whole lands included in the general survey of the town. This act also applies to all the towns and villages, the inhabitants of which inhabited,
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cultivated, or possessed common fields, previous to the 20th of December, 1803.The St. Charles' academy was established and incorporated by the legislature in 1820, under the direction of twelve trustees. It was made the duty of the trustees to examine the state of the grants and donations which had been made by the act of congress above referred to, and to devise means for securing the said town lots, out-lots, and such other lots and lands as were by that art granted to the inhabitants of St. Charles, fur the use of schools, and for putting them, with such other donations as might thereafter be made for that purpose, in a state of profit to the institution.
It is also made the duty of the trustees to cause at all times the English and French languages to be taught, and whenever the funds of the institution will admit, they are to educate, without compensation, orphans and children of such parents are unable to pay.
The appropriation made by congress, although very considerable have been unproductive and almost valueless. But on account of the disposition of the common fields, the lands will soon increase in value, and will ultimately support a seminary on the most extensive scale.
St. Charles is a place of considerable business, which increases in proportion to the increase of the surrounding country; it will probably become one of the largest commercial towns north of the Missouri. The bluff in the rear of the town affords fine sites for dwelling houses. It runs in a northerly direction for two or three miles, and then unites with the bluff of the Mississippi, and forms at the junction the mamelles, or breasts. (See St. Charles county.) Below St. Charles is a bottom, which continues to the mouth of the Missouri. It is in many places heavily timbered, and generally subject to overflow. As is commonly the case, the soil is very fertile. It contains several small French settlements, such as the Marais Croche, Petite Sac, &c.
In the vicinity of St. Charles, there are said to exist isolated sand stone rocks, remarkable for their purity, being so white as to resemble the finest lump sugar. These would furnish an excellent material for the manufacture of glass. Lead has been found in small quantities. Carbonized wood is also abundant
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on the banks of the Missouri at this place, as also pebbles of cornelian, agate, &c. Judge Pettibone has also recently discovered stone coal of a superior quality in the town, and judging from the thickness of the stratum, the quantity is inexhaustible.St. Charles is in latitude 38° 42', 18 miles northwest of St. Louis. It is the capital of the state until the 1st of Oct. 1826.
St. Ferdinand, (also called Florissaute,) a French village in St. Louis county, sixteen miles from the mouth of the Missouri, and about the same distance nearly north of the town of St. Louis. It is situated on a beautiful prairie, surrounded on all sides by the finest timber. About 3000 arpents of land were granted to it by the Spanish government, as a common field. This tract was confirmed to the inhabitants by the act of congress passed in 1812, subject to the same regulations and provisions as are noticed in the preceding article, (St. Charles.) The prairies in the vicinity are large, but very fertile, and contain a considerable population. The plantations, as is generally the case, embrace a portion of prairie and wood land.
A species of grape (vitis aestivalis) grows in this vicinity, from which the inhabitants make very good wine. In summer it answers a valuable purpose, being a pleasant and wholesome beverage, without the ill effects of spirituous liquors. The inhabitants of this place are principally French, of the Catholic religion. The Americans, however, are settling in the vicinity, and many have extensive plantations under cultivation.
In 1799, the village of St. Ferdinand contained about 300 inhabitants; since which time its increase has been very inconsiderable.
St. Ferdinand creek, a small stream of St. Louis county, runs an easterly course through the settlement of St. Ferdinand, and empties into the Missouri three miles above its confluence with the Mississippi.
St. Francis river, rises with Big river and Fourche a Courtois, in the broken lands in the south part of Washington and St. Francois counties, and joins the Mississippi 500 miles below, about 75 miles above the mouth of White river. Its navigation is much obstructed with rafts. The banks are in many
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places subject to inundation. At the head of this river is the most extensive body of iron ore in the western country. The La Motte lead mines are also on one of its tributaries. It affords in its course a proportion of excellent land, mixed with some that is rocky, and bordered near its mouth with some swampy, low, and overflown; which, however, produces an immense quantity of cane. (Schoolcraft.) The general course of the stream is south. It is swelled by Castor creek, and several other tributaries. But little, however, is as yet known in regard to the geography of this stream, or the country through which it meanders. It forms a part of the southwestern boundary of the state.The following is added from Brackenridge's Views of Louisiana.
"The St. Francis is a beautiful and limpid stream, passing through a charming country; but afterwards, though increased in size by its junction with several other rivers, it flows with a slow and lazy current. It communicates with a number of lakes which lie between it and the Mississippi, formed by the streams which flow from the upland country, and lose themselves in the low grounds commencing at Cape Girardeau. This river receives several considerable streams, which rise between it and the Mississippi. The Pemisco has its source near the Big prairie, eight or ten miles northwest of New-Madrid. Generally, the St. Francis, in high water, overflows its banks on that side to a great distance. A person at such times may easily lose the channel, unless well acquainted with its course. The western bank is generally higher, and much less subject to inundation."
On this stream is a very considerable settlement.
St. Genevieve, (called by the French of St. Louis, Misere,) a post town, and the seat of justice of St. Genevieve county, is situated on Gabourie creek, about a mile and a half above its junction with the Mississippi, and is one of the principal deposits of lead from the mine country. The town is handsomely elevated above the surrounding bottom. Immediately below, commences the great common field of St. Genevieve and New-Bourbon. It lies on the bottom, and contains about 7000 acres of the most fertile land in the state. The bottom is about three miles wide,
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and extends down about seven or eight miles on the margin of the river.The town was originally settled by the French of Kaskaskia, about the year 1770. It was then built immediately on the bank of the Mississippi; but the washing away of the bank, and the great flood of 1780, (l'anne de grands eaux,) caused the inhabitants to choose a higher situation. The ruins of the old town may yet be seen, and there are several orchards of fine fruit still remaining.
Although this place was originally settled by the French, it contains a number of American inhabitants, but the French character and manners may be said to prevail. The emigration has been rather slow, and the Americans have rather conformed to the customs of the French, than established new ones.
The common fields attached to this town, are laid out in a regular form, and are under cultivation. The arrangement and the allotments are similar to those described under the article Carondelet. All these have also been confirmed to the inhabitants by an act of congress, subject to the provisions before mentioned. The same provision has also been made for the support of schools. As early as 1808, an academy was established in this place, and incorporated by the territorial legislature, under the government of 21 trustees. It was made their duty to cause the English and French languages to be constantly taught. A very handsome edifice was erected for this purpose on the hill, commanding an elegant prospect of the river, the American bottom, and of the bills on the other side of the Kaskaskia. Unfortunately, the gentlemen who generously undertook the work, were not sufficiently supported, and were obliged to abandon it.
St. Genevieve is similar in its appearance to the other French villages. The houses are generally one story high; sometimes frame, and sometimes log, but all white-washed, which gives the town a very lively appearance. Many of the new houses, however, are built of brick, and are large and commodious. The French inhabitants are principally Catholics, who have erected a chapel, in which a priest regularly officiates. There is also a court house and jail.
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In the vicinity of this place are a number of mounds, and other ancient works. They are situated on the bottom below the town.The month of the Gabourie, situated about a mile and a half above the town, always affords an excellent harbour and landing. In times of high water, boats of any size can ascend this creek to the town.
The country in the vicinity is generally fertile. West and north of the town, it is high and somewhat broken. The soil is clayey, but produces excellent crops of wheat. The timber has been nearly all destroyed, for the use of the inhabitants.
St. Genevieve, in 1799, contained about 950 inhabitants. At present it contains about 1400. It is in latitude 38° north; 85 miles south-southeast of St. Charles.
St. John's creek, a small stream of Franklin county, runs a northeast course, and empties into the Missouri ten miles below Newport, and nearly opposite Marthasville.
St. Lora river, a handsome stream of Perry county, falls into the Mississippi nearly opposite the mouth of the Kaskaskia, at the head of Bois-brule bottom.
St. Louis, a flourishing post town, the seat of justice of St. Louis county, and formerly the capital of the territory and state, is situated on the west bank of the Mississippi, 18 miles below the mouth of the Missouri. It is by far, the largest town in the state, and is considered its commercial metropolis. The site is elevated many feet above the inundations of the Mississippi, and is protected from them by a limestone bank which extends nearly two miles. Such situations are extremely rare, as the Mississippi is almost universally bounded either by high perpendicular rocks, or loose alluvial soil, the latter of which is in continual danger of being washed away by the annual floods.
This spot has an abrupt acclivity from the river to the first bottom, and a gradual one from it to the second. The first bank has a view of the river, being elevated about 20 feet above the highest water; the second bank is 40 feet higher than the first, and affords a fine view of the town, river, and surrounding
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country. This town was originally laid out on the first bank, and consisted of three narrow streets, running parallel with the river. Fortifications were erected on the second bank, to defend the inhabitants against the attacks of the savages. Soon after the American emigration commenced, four additional streets were laid out on the second bottom, which is a beautiful plain, and on account of the width of the streets, the coolness and airiness of the situation, is preferred for places of residence.From the opposite side of the Mississippi, the appearance of St. Louis is very imposing. It extends along the river for nearly two miles, and the shore is every where lined with steamboats, keel-boats, lorry-boats, and other craft. The gradual ascent of the first bank, and the elevation of the second, is such that it affords a tine view of the whole town.
St. Louis was first settled in 1664, by a company of merchants, to whom M. D'Abbadie, the director general of Louisiana, had given an exclusive grant for the commerce with the Indian nations on the Missouri; and for the security and encouragement of this settlement, the staff of the French officers were ordered to remove thither, upon rendering Fort Chartres to the English. The company built a large house and four stores here, and in the year 1770, there were about 40 private houses, and as many families. The French garrison then consisted of a captain commandant, two lieutenants, a fort major, a sergeant, a corporal, and 20 men.
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conquest of the remaining towns and villages would follow as a matter of course. To accomplish this object, a body of 1500 Indians and 140 British proceeded, in a number of canoes and light boats, through Lake Michigan and the Illinois river, to St. Louis. "On the approach of so formidable an enemy, the inhabitants, despairing of successful resistance, deputed one of their most respectable citizens, the late Charles Gratiot, father of Col. Gratiot of the U. S. corps of engineers, to solicit the aid of Gen. G. R. Clark, then encamped with his men on the American bottom.
"Although the general was well acquainted with their superior number, he having but 400 men -- although he well knew the hazard of attempting the passage of such a river as the Mississippi in the face of a superior force, and without having a retreat in case of a defeat; and although St. Louis was without the limits of the United States, and he had no authority to carry his arms so far -- besides many other serious objections, he waved them all. He saw in the inhabitants of St. Louis a people devoted to destruction, because their sovereign was an ally of his country, and he determined at once to carry his arms to their relief. He had but 400 men, but they were the riflemen of the west, the daring sons of the forest, to whom danger was sport, hardship was pastime, death was nothing, and glory every thing. He led 200 of his gallant band to the ferry opposite the town, and made a demonstration of crossing, while 200 more were sent down to cross under a bend of the river, about 3 miles below. The Indians were disconcerted at the appearance of this unexpected force, and retired, killing 60 of the inhabitants, and carrying 30 into captivity. This terrible year, (1780) is well remembered by the old inhabitants, who refer to it in their conversations as a date, by the description of L'anneau coup; the year of the attack."
After this time, the inhabitants suffered but little from the incursions of the Indians. During the same year, the town was fortified by M. Dom. Francois de Crusat, lieutenant colonel and lieutenant governor of the western section of the country of
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the Illinois. (See Plan of St. Louis) It was entirely enclosed with pickets. On the river, at each extremity of the town. were half moons mounted with artillery. After the peace of 1783, these works were suspended. Some years after, the garrison on the hill was completed, and about 1797, when an invasion was again expected from Canada, four stone towers were erected, and also a block house at the lower part of the town. The spaces between these were well picketted, and a ditch surrounded the whole. -- Fortunately, however, these works were never needed. Many of them are still standing.The population of St. Louis increased but little until after the cession of Louisiana to the United States, when its advantageous situation, and the alluring prospects of gain which it presented, made it at once the centre of a vast emigration. The emigrants were principally men of business and adventurers, who considered it only as a temporary residence. On this account, very little improvement was made in the town until about 1812, when several new houses were erected in the American style. After this, the number of houses increased rapidly. Mechanics of all descriptions received high wages -- trade was brisk, and money plenty, and St. Louis had all the appearance of a great commercial town. But, as could have been easily foreseen, this state of things did not continue long, for it was forced and unnatural. Speculators had purchased large quantities of land on a credit at very high prices -- merchants had purchased in the same way immense stocks of goods in the eastern cities; and almost the whole business was transacted upon a fictitious capital, which was frequently transferred from one to another. Consequently, when the credits for lands and goods had expired, when it was necessary for each man to depend upon his own capital, a sad reverse was experienced. Not having any considerable articles of export, every dollar of specie was remitted to the east. In the midst of this, the banks failed, creditors suffered, confidence was destroyed, and for a time, business was almost completely stopped. This state of things, however, was not peculiar to this place, for at the same time a similar depression existed in every part of the country. This, without any of the local causes above mentioned, would have perhaps produced serious effects, for it could not be supposed, that situated as Missouri was, the
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pressure which commenced on the Atlantic, and which had spread rapidly over the middle, states, would hear lightly upon her.Although the assertion may be considered paradoxical, the situation of St. Louis and of Missouri, is at present more prosperous than ever. The citizens have, in a great measure, abandoned their wild and visionary schemes of money-making. -- They are, now directing their attention to the cultivation of the soil, and their inexhaustible mines of lead and iron. Domestic manufactures are substituted for foreign fineries, and industry and frugality have taken the place of idleness and dissipation.
According to an enumeration taken by the editor of the ‘St. Louis Directory,’ this town contained in May, 1821, 65 dwelling houses, 232 of which are built of brick and stone, and 419 of wood. The majority of the dwellings erected by the French, are one story high, and surrounded with a piazza. Those which have recently been built by the Americans, are principally of brick. There are frequently attached to these dwellings large gardens, which are under good cultivation.
By the same enumeration, it appears that the population of this place is 5600. Its astonishing increase in this respect, within the last few years, is worthy of notice. In 1799, it contained 925 inhabitants; in 1810, 1000; and in 1818, 3500. -- From which it appears, that from the year 1799 to 1810, this place remained nearly stationary; and that since the latter, its population has increased in nearly a six-fold ratio.
St. Louis as yet contains few public buildings. Among these, the Roman Catholic chapel, college, and Baptist church are the most conspicuous. The Catholic chapel is a very spacious edifice, and is handsomely furnished with paintings, vases, and other ornaments. Among the former is a splendid one, presented to Bishop Du Bourg by the present king of France. Other distinguished Catholics of Europe have been very liberal in their donations to this church. In the academy or college which is attached to this establishment, a complete and extensive system of education is adopted. Among the other advantages is that of a library, containing about 8000 volumes, the property of the bishop, but which, through his generosity, is open to those who wish to examine its valuable contents.
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The Baptist church is situated on Third-street, and is a fine spacious brick building. Arrangements are also making for the erection of a Presbyterian church, on one of the lots facing the public square.The Museum in St. Louis is well worthy the attention of the curious and scientific. It is the private property of Gov. Clark, through whose liberality it is continually open for the admission of visitors. It is handsomely arranged, and consists of rich Indian dresses, ornaments, instruments of war, skins of different animals, minerals, fossils, and other interesting and curious articles and specimens, collected by himself in his travels, and presented to him at different times by Indian chiefs and traders. It is probably the best collection of Indian curiosities in this country.
In addition to the school above mentioned, there are several others, in some of which the classics and higher branches of English education are taught. By an act passed in 1817, these were placed under the government of seven trustees. They instructed Mr. Benton to petition congress to permit them to sell a portion of the school lands, for the purpose of raising funds for their support. Whether this has been effected, I have not as yet learnt.
St. Louis was incorporated in 1809, and placed under the government of five trustees, who are elected annually. The limits of the incorporation are as follows: "Beginning at Roy's mills, on the bank of the Mississippi river; thence running sixty arpents
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When this place was first laid out, lots were very cheap. Owing to the desire of the French and Spaniards to encourage emigration, large grants were made to different individuals, and these were sold at a very low rate. But during and since the late war, the value of the lots, particularly those on the principal streets, has increased astonishingly. A circumstance which operates against the improvement of the town, is, that many of the old inhabitants own very large lots, which they are unwilling to build on themselves, or dispose of to others.In regard to building materials, St. Louis is very advantageously situated. The whole bank of the river here consists of limestone, which can be quarried with the greatest ease. This also furnishes lime of a good quality. There are immense beds of clay in the upper part of the town, from which large quantities of brick are annually made. Lumber is brought down the Gasconade and Missouri rivers, and sold here at a very cheap rate.
There are numerous fine springs of water in the vicinity of this place, but the, digging of wells is attended with uncommon difficulty. About 15 or 20 feet below the surface of the ground, is a stratum of limestone of more than six feet in thickness, through which it is often necessary to blast. The expense of these wells frequently exceeds 1000 dollars. It is worthy of remark, that on the "Hill," the water is much better, and more easily obtained than in the lower parts of the town. In digging these wells, it is necessary to use every precaution, as large quantities of carbonic acid gas are frequently generated in the course of a few hours. During the year 1820, four persons perished from the effects of this substance, in this vicinity. The existence of this deleterious gas can always be detected by letting down a lighted candle; and no person should descend, unless he has previously tried this experiment.
The commerce of this place is very considerable. This is carried on by steam-boats, barges, and keel-boats. The annual imports of this town, are computed at upwards of 82,000,000. -- Furs, peltries, and lead ore, are as yet the principal articles of export, but to these will soon be added many others no less valuable. In 1819, an association was formed here, called the ‘Missouri Fur Company,’ for the purpose of trading on the Missouri and its tributaries. Their capital amounts to upwards of
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$70,000, and they have already extended their establishtiments to the Mandan villages.Wood is at present the principal article of fuel used in St. Louis, and with this, it is principally supplied from the American bottom, on the opposite side of the river. A large quantity, however, is brought from the "commons," seven or eight miles below the town. Many of the inhabitants supply themselves with the drift wood, an immense quantity of which is annually brought down the Missouri, and deposited on the sand bar in front of the town. But as coal is very abundant within a short distance of this place, it is probable that in a few years it will completely supercede the use of wood.
It has been frequently observed throughout this work, that in consequence of the large quantities of sand which are brought down by the Missouri, whenever there is an accidental obstruction to the current, a portion of it is deposited, and this, adding to the obstruction, increases every subsequent deposit. By this means, a bar of two miles in length, and a quarter of a mile in width, has been formed in front of the town of St. Louis. I have been informed by old inhabitants that many years ago, it was much larger than it is at present, and that it was under cultivation. After this time, it was entirely carried away, and the river continued in its natural course for a number of years. -- About 10 or 12 years ago, this bar again commenced forming, and has ever since continued to increase. The manner in which it was formed, will be explained by a reference to the plan which is annexed. Opposite to the upper part of the town, is a small island. The greatest volume of water descends on the Illinois, or east side, and wears away the newly formed alluvion, The current of the water which descends on the west, or Missouri side, continues close to the island; and when it reaches its southern extremity, shoots across in a southwesterly direction, and strikes the rocky shore at a. From this point, the current is again turned in a southeasterly direction, and shoots across to the east side of the river, where, uniting with the main curcurrent, it continues along the east shore for nearly three miles. It then again crosses the river, and strikes the rocky bluff at b. From this sketch it appears, that the volume of water, e e e e, is, as it were, pent up, and must necessarily deposit a considerable portion of the sand which it contains.
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If this bar continues to increase as it has done for several years past, it will be greatly injurious to the town. It will probably extend north, and unite with the island c, by which means boats will be completely prevented from landing here. It therefore becomes an interesting question, whether this bar can be removed by artificial means. The cause of its formation, will at once point out the most feasible plan for accomplishing this object. If any obstruction could be created on the east side of the river, by which means the current directly below the island, could be thrown over to the bar, it is probable that in a short time it would be swept away. A stone pier constructed as d d, if it could be made sufficiently strong to resist the current of the river, (which is indeed extremely doubtful) would have this effect. The removal might be further assisted by digging a small canal along the bank, at f f f, which could give the current an opportunity to act upon both sides of the bar.In suggesting this plan, I am well aware of the difficulty and expense which would attend its accomplishment. But when we consider the importance of this emporium of two states, which are destined to become populous and wealthy -- when we look at the vast works of art which have already been constructed in other states; and when we reflect that their inhabitants are gradually emigrating to the west, and will soon crowd the banks of the Missouri and Mississippi, we are irresistibly led to the conclusion, that all these difficulties will be surmounted by their industry, ingenuity and enterprise.
In the vicinity of St. Louis, are a number of mounds, the relative position of which are shown upon the map. They are similar to those which are every where found in the valley of the Mississippi.
St. Louis is in latitude 38° 35' north.
St. Michaels, a post village of Madison county, situated on a plain on Village creek, which falls into the St. Francis river, a mile below. It contains about 50 houses, including a few stores, and lies in the centre of the richest farming district in Madison county. Fredericktown, the seat of justice of the county, is situated on a rising ground, a short distance from the village. Mine la Motte is two miles north.
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Strawberry river, a branch of Black river, running through Wayne county. As so little is as yet known concerning the southwestern part of Missouri, I cannot omit the following observations of an author already referred to:"Between White river and Strawberry river, are three parallel porphyry ranges, running circularly from the west to the northeast; the three mountains are twenty-eight miles across, and seem to have been above water, when the whole country around was covered by the ocean. The southwest side presents a large undulating valley of basalts, among which are some calcareous stones, that may be denominated marbles.
"At the toot of the before mentioned mountain, was an elephant or manmoth's tooth, (or grinder) of an enormous size; it was fully twice as large as the largest I had seen before at Big-bonelick. A large quantity of these fossils are there gathered in a small compass, and this collection was doubtless occasioned by the appetite which these animals had for salt. Attracted by the water that oozes in these marshy places, they were evidently mired when they ventured too far in, and of course the struggles of the last one would sink the bones of his predecessor still deeper. Thus these collections are easily accounted for, although at first, it seems very strange to see these bones accumulated, like those of some of the extinct Indian tribes in the west. The grinder which I discovered, was perfectly preserved in its shape, and converted into a silecious petrifaction, representing milk-white jasper, variegated with beautiful colours. It was incrusted by a solid block of porphyry, which the destructive hand of time had worn away to such a degree, that it projected like a tooth in its own alveolage. By breaking a piece from one corner, the enamel and the layers of the tooth soon became visible, so that there could be no doubt as to what it was.
"I examined the block of porphyry attentively, and think I could discern some osseous forms; the bones appeared to be in their full size, and, like the grinder, converted into jasper; but it was of a more dull colour and not so hard, and resembled indurated clay. The other component parts were clay, feld-spar, and quartz, and some other things not ascertained."
Upon the marbles above mentioned, the author makes the following remarks:
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"The kind that is must abundant, is a brick coloured marble, with brown stripes, (resembling the Italian Roso di Monte Catini.) The next is a plain flesh-coloured marble, (Rosso di Culdona.) A white and black marble is the first that occurs at the foot of the ridges; it is a most beautiful variety. (Nero, y Bianro Antico.) I have found many other varieties in the brandies of the creeks, but have not discovered the quarries. The kind first mentioned, are found in great plenty. The first covers more than 40 miles of surface. The land is extremely fertile in the places where the marble lies, buried in two or three feet of loam. This is particularly true on the bottoms of a great number of streams which abound in this country, and are produced by large springs flowing every where. The growth is black walnut, hickory, cherry, &c. When the rocks are above the vegetable earth, nothing is seen for miles, except now and then a few wild gooseberry bushes. These quarries generally exhibit level surfaces of a tolerable height."Talbot creek, a small stream of Lillard county, runs a northeasterly course, and falls into the Missouri, half a mile above Mount Vernon. It is fifteen or twenty yards wide at its mouth.
Tavern creek, a small stream of St. Charles county, falls into the Missouri on the right side, three miles above the mouth of Femme Osage. A mile below this is a large cave, on the south side of the Missouri, at the foot of cliffs about three hundred feet high, overhanging the water. The cave is one hundred and twenty feet wide, forty deep, and twenty high. It received the name of the Tavern, from the circumstance of its affording a convenient stopping place to the traders and voyageurs. Besides the names of visitors with which the walls are every where covered, there are several rude representations of birds and beasts, probably the work of Indian artists. The reverence which they have for the Great Spirit, induces them, when visiting these displays of his power, to leave some memorial of their homage.
Thomas fork of Black river, see Fourche a Thomas.
Tiger creek, a small stream of Ray county, runs a southwest course, and empties into the Missouri 276 miles above its mouth.
Town of Missouri, an imaginary town plot on the north bank
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of the Missouri, 25 miles above St. Charles. It is in the centre of the Femme Osage settlement, and is said to be a convenient point on the river for the inhabitants of St. Charles county to export their produce.Troy, (formerly Wood's fort,) a flourishing post town, situated near the centre of Lincoln county, in the southeast corner of township 49 north, in range 1, west of the 5th principal meridian. It is about two miles north of Cuivre river, fourteen west of the Mississippi, and ten northwest of Monroe. The lands in the vicinity are fertile, and thickly settled. The Cuivre affords several valuable mill-seats. Troy, although as yet small, is in a state of improvement.
Two Rivers, two small streams of Rails county, fall into the Mississippi near each other, between Salt river and the Waconda. They are distinguished by the names of North and South rivers, which see.
Vermilion river, a considerable branch of the Osage, emptying in on the left side, about seven miles south of St. Charles.
Videpoche, see Carondelet.
Village a Robert, or Village du Marais des Liards, is situated three or four miles west of St. Ferdinand, and contains a few French families. It was formerly the residence of a part of the Delaware and Shawnee tribes of Indians. The name is due to an old settler, Robert Owens. In 1799, it contained 379 inhabitants; since which time the number has diminished.
Village creek, a small stream of Madison county. On its banks is a district of good farming land.
Waconda, a town recently laid out at the confluence of Waconda creek with the Missouri. The site is a regular unbroken eminence, with a substratum of limestone, forming, on the margin of the river, natural piers or wharves for the accommodation of river craft. It possesses many local advantages, and is probably destined to become a considerable commercial town. The Mississippi is navigable more than half the year to the Falls of St. Anthony, 1000 miles above; and the water communication
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with the lakes is always open in the spring, through the Green Bay, Fox and Ouisconsin rivers. The surrounding country is fertile, and is handsomely interspersed with prairie and woodland. A saw and grist-mill are already in operation here, and other improvements are progressive.Waconda is 120 miles in a right line north of St. Louis, and 190 by the meanders of the river, and about 100 from Franklin on the Missouri.
Waconda creek, a considerable stream of Rails county, runs a southeast course, and falls into the Mississippi in the southern part of township 61 north, in range 5, west of the 5th principal meridian. It is about 100 yards wide at its mouth. According to a tradition which exists among the Indians, two of the Sioux died on the banks of this stream in the night. As they had no marks of violence upon them, their death was at once ascribed to a supernatural agency. It was hence called by this tribe Waconda, from their supposing it to be the residence of the Master of Life, or Great Spirit.
A short distance below the mouth of this stream, are the remains of an ancient village. Several walls are still to be seen.
White river, a large navigable stream, rises in the Black mountains, which separate the waters of the Arkansas from those of the Missouri and Mississippi, and running a southeast course, empties into the Mississippi eighty miles below the St. Francis. Very little is as yet known of this stream, and it is very doubtful whether any part of it is within the limits of this state. But as the boundary line between Missouri and the territory of Arkansas is still undefined, I have, upon the authority of several authors, laid down White river on the map as running through the south-western part of this state.
White river, North fork of, a large stream, running through the south-western part of the state.
White-water creek, runs through the counties of Cape Girardeau and Scott.
Wier's creek, a small stream of Cole county, runs a devious course, and empties into the Missouri on the right side, in township 44 north, in range 11, west of the 5th principal meridian.
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The permanent capital of the state is situated at the mouth of this creek.Wild-Horse creek, a small stream of St. Louis county.
Winchester, the seat of justice for the county of New-Madrid, 22 miles north of the town of New-Madrid.
Wolf creek, a tributary of the St. Francis river, running through the counties of St. Francois and Madison.
Yungar river, heads between White river of the Mississippi, and the grand fork of the Osage, and pursuing a course northeast, empties into the Osage, about 25 miles above Great Gravel river. The Indians call it Ne-hun-gar; from the vast number of springs at its source. It is supposed to be nearly as extensive as the Osage; navigable for 100 miles, and is celebrated for the abundance of bear, found on its branches. On its banks are the hunting grounds of the Chassieurs du Bois, of Louisiana, the Osages and Creeks, (or Muskogees) a wandering party of which have established themselves here; between whom and the French traders, frequent skirmishes take place. About 20 miles above the mouth of this stream, is said to be a curious cascade, of more than a hundred feet fall in the distance of four hundred yards; the water issues from a large spring, and is precipitated over three different ledges of rocks, and falling to the bottom, is collected into a beautiful basin, from whence it flows into this river, a navigable stream.
Zenon creek, a small stream of Cape Girardeau county. The town of Jackson is situated between two branches of it.
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In page 41, it is stated, that Col. J. Johnson, during the last session of congress, obtained the exclusive right of working the lead mines in the north western part of Illinois, for three years. This statement was made upon authority which I had no reason to question. From the following documents, however, (which I was unable to obtain until after the above was printed,) it appears, that on this subject I have been misinformed. These documents are here published, not only because they correct this error, but because they contain much valuable information concerning the lead mines. They were transmitted from the ordnance department, through the secretary of war and president of the United States, to the senate, in May, 1822.
ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT, May 3d, 1822.
sir; In obedience to your directions, I have the honour to submit herewith copies of all the documents on record in this office, which have rotation to the lead mine lands of the United States, and furnishing all the information called for by the senate on the 25th of April, which this department is at this time enabled to give upon the subject.
The papers referred to are as follows:
Those marked A, containing the letters addressed from this office to the persons applying for leases of a portion of the above lands; with instructions to sundry officers, issued by the department of war and this office, for aiding in locating and surveying the lands embraced in said leases.
That marked B, being a copy of the report made by this office to the department of war, furnishing all the information received respecting those mine lands; with the proposal of a plan for rendering them more productive, to the public revenue.
The paper marked C, containing a copy of a conditional lease, proposed by this department in the cases of Carneal and Johnson, and others, to be finally acted upon hereafter.
I have the honour to be, sir, very respectfully,
Your most obedient servant,
G. BOMFORD,
Lieutenant Colonel on ordnance duty.
Hon. J. C. calhoun, Department of War.
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Copies of letters from the Ordnance Department, in relation to the Lead Mine Lands of the United States.
ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT, January 4th, 1822.
SIR: I have it in direction from the honourable the secretary of war, to state to you, that he has had under consideration the proposition of Messrs. Carneal and Johnson, for leasing from the United States such a quantity of land in the state of Illinois, as the government may be disposed to grant, for the purpose, on their part, of discovering and working therein the lead ore which it, may be supposed to contain, on such conditions as may be mutually agreed upon.
That, the secretary is disposed to encourage the proposal, so far as to allow the said Carneal and Johnson, and they are hereby authorised, for that purpose, to proceed in the selection of such a tract of land, to the amount of one hundred and sixty acres, in the said state of Illinois, as they may judge will promote their views.
That upon such selection, they shall make a report of the same to the department of war, designating the precise situation, boundaries, nature of the soil, and other particulars necessary to an accurate knowledge thereof.
That upon receiving such report, and approval thereof, the proposition will be taken into immediate consideration.
I am also directed to inform you, that in want of accurate information in regard to the present situation of the mine lands of the United States generally; and in order also, to take further time to examine into that subject, and the laws and regulations which have been passed in relation thereto, the government does not deem it expedient to do any thing further in the premises, than the permission now given to Messrs. Carneal and Johnson.
In order, however, to enable them to form a judgment of the terms and conditions upon which leases will in future be granted, a form of one is herewith furnished, and according to which a lease will be granted to Messrs. Carneal and Johnson, in the event of their proposal being finally accepted, of which there can be little or no doubt, from the understanding which has already taken place on the subject.
It may be proper to add, that the term of three years introduced into the form of a lease, now furnished, is grounded upon the law of 3d March, 1807, which limits the duration of leases to be granted by the president of the United States to that period; but in order to balance any disadvantage which might be expected to result therefrom to the lessees, the privilege and preference to be allowed them for a renewal of their grants, will be inserted in their future leases, and which cannot fail to serve
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also as an encouragement for the faithful performance of their engagements.
Very respectfully, I am, sir, &c.
GEORGE BOMFORD, Lieut. Col.
On ordnance duty.
The Hon. R. M. JOHNSON, Senate United States.
Note. A similar letter was addressed to Mr. Johnson on the part of Messrs. Suggett and Payne.
ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT, February 1st, 1822.
SIR: In the letter which I addressed to you on the 4th of last month, by order of the secretary of war, and which communicated the outlines of a lease you might expect to be given to Messrs. Carneal and Johnson, and to Messrs. Suggett and Payne as soon as the ground was selected, I stated they would be at liberty to locate any point within the state of Illinois. It is since concluded not to limit the leases to that boundary, but to extend their privilege of selection to any point between the river Mississippi and Lake Michigan, according to the reservations and treaties of the United States, whether the same, be within the state of Illinois, or the territory of Michigan; and when the selection shall be made, the parties are authorized to proceed to work the lead mines which may be discovered, in conformity with the former stipulations.
Very respectfully, &c.
GEORGE BOMFORD, Lieut. Col.
On ordnance duty.
Hon. R. M. JOHNSON, Senate United States.
ORNANCE DEPARTMENT, 13th February, 1822.
SIR: I have it in direction from the honorable the secretary of war, to state to you that measures are in contemplation requiring the co-operation of this department, and that you have been appointed, in order to render such assistance as in the service (herein more fully detailed) shall be deemed expedient and necessary.
The government, through the department of war, in the beginning of last month, granted conditional leases of lands in the state of Illinois, (supposed to contain lead ore,) to Messrs. Carneal & Johnson, and Messrs. Suggett & Payne, amounting to 160 acres to each of the two parties. A copy of those conditional leases is herewith furnished to you, as explaining the views of government in regard to such grants in general. It has since, however, been determined not to confine the locations alluded to, to the state of Illinois, but to extend the privilege to the lands ceded in 1816, by the Chippewas, Ottawas, and Pottawatamies, as is more fully described in the extracts from the treaty enclosed to you herewith, and by which you will be governed on
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that head. You will immediately upon the receipt of this order, prepare yourself to meet the lessees already named, on or about the 1st of March, at the "Great Crossings" of Kentucky, and proceed with them in exploring the country where the locations are likely to be made; and when the sites shall be determined on by the lessees, and decisive measures taken to work the same, that you make, or cause to be made, accurate surveys thereof, designating not only the precise situation of the grounds, but of so much of the lands and country immediately adjoining, and more or less distant, as shall convey to government accurate knowledge of the whole; furnishing likewise such plats or maps as may serve, for record in the department of war.You will cause due care to be taken, to avoid the interfering, by the present parties, with any locations or works on lead mine lands, which may appear already established, under proper authority; but as the old leases from the United States (within the knowledge of the department of war,) have expired, few or none, it is believed, can arise. A report, however, must be rendered of every discovery that shall be made by you, or the parties with whom you shall be acting, of all lead mines, and of leases, if any thereof, in order that government may be enabled to grant proper conveyances in future, and avoid interfering with old rights or claims, which may have been sanctioned by the United States.
You will also take every step which shall be in your power, to satisfy any inquiries or remonstrances that may be made by any of the Indian tribes, and regular settlers, as to the authority under which the present lessees, and yourself, shall be acting, and of the views of government generally, giving, jointly with the Indian agent, every support to the lessees which shall enable them to proceed without interruption or injury in their contemplated locations and works.
In addition to this aid, it is contemplated to give the support and countenance that may be derivable, from the appearance of a small portion of the regular troops, which may be found conveniently stationed for that purpose; in which case (their being employed at all,) you will act according to the orders which may have been given by the department of war, to the commanding officer, and to the nature of the service, in which you will be thus mutually engaged; carefully avoiding all hostile aggression upon, or collision with the Indian tribes, or the regular settlers and miners.
It will be expected and required, that you render to this office a monthly report of your proceedings, and oftener, if circumstances should admit thereof.
An extensive field for observation will be presented to you in the course, of your intended operations, of which it will be expected that you will take every practicable opportunity for obtaining information upon all points relative to lead mine and mineral lands of the United States, that may prove useful to the
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government, in the prosecution of their future views and measures, and which, if performed with judgment and accuracy on your part, may tend to your own personal advantage, by thus recommending yourself to the favourable notice of your government.
Respectfully, &c.
GEORGE BOMFORD,
Lt. Col. on ordnance duty.
Lieut. CLARK BURDINE, of the Artillery,
On ordnance duty at Washington.
DEPARTMENT OF WAR, February 13th, 1822.
SIR: Conditional leases were granted on the 4th January ult. to Messrs. Carneal and Johnson, and to Messrs. Suggett and Payne, (all of Kentucky.) for 160 acres of land to each of the two parties, to be located in the, state of Illinois, (and to be, more precisely described hereafter,) for the purpose on their part of working any lead mines which may be discovered by them within said tract. It has since been agreed that the said location shall not be confined to the state of Illinois, but that the privilege shall be extended to any part of the lands ceded by the Ottawa, Chippewa, and Pottawatamie tribes or nations of Indians, to the United States, at St. Louis, on the 24th August, 1816, conformable to the treaty herewith enclosed. And you are hereby required to hold yourself in readiness, and to proceed with the before mentioned lessees, whenever they shall apply to you for that purpose, to the lands where they shall expect to open and work the lead mines contained therein, and within the bounds or extent of their lease, in order that you may explain to the Indians the views of the government in granting the said leases; in order to secure to the persons holding the same, the uninterrupted prosecution of their location, and subsequent works and operations therein.
You will use as much dispatch in the performance of this service as its nature may admit, and transmit to this department an early report of your proceedings, together with such other information in regard to the particular object in view, and of the situation of other lead mines discovered and worked in the countries named in the present grant or lease, as may prove useful to the government in their future views and operations in that quarter.
Respectfully, &c.
JOHN C. CALHOUN.
THOMAS FORSYTH, Esq. Indian Agent, St Louis, Missouri.
Note. -- Similar letters were addressed to Alexander Woolcott, jun. and Nicholas Boilvin, Indian agents on the Mississippi.
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ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT, April 15th, 1822.SIR: The applications addressed to you by Messrs. Duff, Green and others of Missouri, for leases of lead mine lands from the United States, and communicated by you to the Hon. secretary of war, have been laid by him before this department, in whose charge the issuing of such leases, under the sanction of the department of war and the president of the United States, has recently been placed.
I have therefore the honour to state to you for your information, that until the business of the lead mine lands can be revived under new and better regulations, and more full and direct information attained in regard thereto, (and for which measures are now taking,) the government has concluded to grant leases of small extent, say 160 acres of land to each applicant or company, on certain privileges and conditions, the principal of which are: To continue for three years, the two first to be free from rent, and on the third a rent of one tenth of the mineral raised to be paid to government; the lessees to have the privilege of wood to erect their works, use of water, &c. usual in such cases, to be paid at a certain valuation for the improvements they shall have made at the close of the lease, if not removed by them, on the land located and worked; the selection of the land and the commencement of the works (of mining) to be within nine months from the date of the lease, under penalty of forfeiture thereof, and no sub-leases allowable.
Should you think proper to desire leases for the applicants now named, this office will be prepared, under the direction of the secretary of war, to take such measures as may be deemed requisite.
Very respectfully, &c.
GEORGE BOMFORD,
Lt. Col. on ordnance duty.
Hon. N. EDWARDS, Senate United States.
ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT, April 20th, 1822.
SIR: Your letter to this department of the 18th inst. requesting that leases of lead mine lands may be issued to Messrs. Green and Estis, of Missouri, is received.
I have it in direction to state to you, that previous to making an absolute lease of the lands, it will be expedient, in the present want of accurate information as to the precise situation of the mines, and adjacent country where they wish to make their location, that they fix upon the sites, which shall not interfere with any previous grants or leases legally given and established; that they cause a regular survey to be made of the quantity of land, (160 acres each) and a plat or map of the same be transmitted to this office, duly certified by an United States' surveyor; upon the receipt of which, they will be laid without delay
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before the secretary of war for examination. The documents received from the general land office leave this department in doubt as to the topographical and geographical lines and limits of the mine lands belonging to the United States; and until an agent or agents shall have been appointed to ascertain those points, and others connected therewith, this department can do no more than grant this general authority for location, to be thereafter acted upon when the same shall have been regularly reported for continuation.
Very respectfully, &c.
GEORGE BOMFORD.
Lt. Col. on ordnance duty.
Hon. N. EDWARDS, Senate United States.
ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT, May 3d, 1822.
I certify the foregoing to be true copies from the original records of this office.
GEORGE BOMFORD,
Lt. Col. on ordnance duty.
Report from, the Ordnance Department to the Honourable Secretary of War, respecting the Lead Mines of the United States.
ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT, 30th March, 1822.
SIR: Conformably to your directions, I have had under examination the papers received from the general land office, which have a relation to lead mine lands of the United States, and respectfully beg leave to offer the following report thereon.
Those papers or documents were found to consist of communications (letters and reports) of unconnected series, from the public agents of the United States to the treasury department; copies of petitions for grants, and of leases made thereon; and decisions of the commissioners of the United States on old claims; together with other miscellaneous papers; from which a regular account cannot be given of those lands and mines, or of all the proceedings, public and private, which have formerly taken place respecting them.
The latest dates of any of the papers are of the year 1817, but the greater part are of a much earlier period. No books of records of leases made, or proceedings of commissioners and agents, or of moneys or mineral received or expended, have accompanied the papers received.
From those documents, however, it would appear, that lead ore is computed to commence at Mine a la Motte, in the county of St. Genevieve, Missouri, extending in a northern direction as far as Mine a Dubuque, below Prairie du Chien, on the west side of the Mississippi, and probably across the river at that
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place, averaging in breadth about 25 miles from cast to west; that most of the mines worked were in Washington county, St. Louis district, about 35 miles south of the river Missouri, their extent about 50 miles in circumference Those particularly noted are: Mine a Burton, near the centre of them, (the whole number is stated at 33 to 45;) Mine a la Motte, the most extensive in the range, and in Madison county; Shibboleth Mines, discovered in 1811, and very productive. (A Mr. Smith was a claimant for a part, and also a Mr. Lebeaume.) Mine Renault, Brian's Mines, and Mine a Martin.In addition: Mines a Dubuque, very extensive and rich, within the territory attached to the state of Missouri, on the west side of the Mississippi, below Prairie du Chien, the title to which appears to have remained unsettled, being claimed by heirs or assignees of Dubuque, and by A. Chouteau; and great injury is supposed to have resulted to the United States, from those and other claims not having been satisfactorily adjusted by the former commissioners.
Mines of lesser magnitude were worked in various sections of the late Missouri territory, and other districts on the Mississippi, of the actual value or proceeds of which there appears no precise or authentic accounts from the papers received. There are also in the state of Illinois, numerous mine lands, and chiefly in the district ceded by the Sac and Fox Indians, some of them contiguous to the Rock river, and others nearly bordering upon the Mississippi; others within the United States' reservation in the southeast part of that state. Recent verbal information, from respectable authority, also states the existence of lead mines in that part between the southern boundary of Lake Michigan and the river Mississippi, ceded in 1816 by the Ottavva, Chippewa, and Pottawatamie nations or tribes of Indians, to the United States. In addition, all the accounts agree in representing that new discoveries of lead mines were continually making, and many, it was supposed, were kept secret, until purchases of the lands could be made of the United States.
The towns of Burton and Potosi were the principal settlements in the Missouri mine tracts. Herculaneum, on the Mississippi, 35 miles from the Mine a Burton, and Genevieve, lower down the river, were the principal places of depot of lead for transportation.
The leases which appear to have been formerly granted, have expired; and it is stated by respectable persons, that there are at present no mines known to be worked in any of the mining districts, under any regular leases or authority; but that many in the last year were worked in the state of Missouri, without such authority, and chiefly by new settlers and emigrants.
Of the value of the mines, it may be noticed, that Mine a Burton was computed to yield about 500,000 pounds of mineral per annum; and that the Shibboleth mines might have been made to produce to the United States about $10,000 per annum. Mr.
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Schoolcraft, in more recent accounts, states the receipts of lead from the mines as probably rising beyond three millions of pounds per annum, (from the mines of Missouri,) and his verbal information, given at this office since, rates the receipts of 1821 at a much greater amount.The lessees of mining lands, it was stated by one of the informants of the treasury department, had not been properly supported by government; having been constantly involved in law suits and disputes with claimants under old Spanish grants, and by intruders, which proved often ruinous to their undertakings.
From the various evidence adduced, there can be no doubt but that all the mines might be made more and greatly productive under new and better regulations. There does not appear, among the papers now produced, any account of what has been the actual receipt, by the United States, of the mineral raised from the numerous discoveries of lands producing it; and indeed it would, on the contrary, appear that no rents have been received from them. The value of those lands and mines cannot therefore be estimated but from general information, as already given in this report. Many of those which have been worked, are supposed to be inexhaustible; and suitable encouragement in future would, there can be no doubt, lead to additional and equally valuable discoveries. Among other means which might be devised for rendering the mine lands more productive to the United States, I would respectfully suggest the following:
An agent or commissioner to be appointed and established in a central position, for the principal mining districts; empowered to grant new leases, to hear all complaints, and fully authorised to give prompt redress, and to act as a general guardian of the whole public domains, that he should be accompanied by a competent commissioned officer, in order to make surveys of the mining lands, which should be found to belong to the U. States, and of new discoveries; and to make frequent and regular reports of such surveys, and every other information obtained, as to the quantity of mineral produced. The agent to be charged with keeping an office of record of all leases and surveys.
Large leases, or monopolies of large tracts of mining lauds to be prohibited, by granting them in small parcels of 160 to 200 acres: it having been discovered that they have formerly been issued in tracts of several thousand acres, and that no beneficial effects had resulted from such an extension.
The duration of the leases to be agreeably to the law of 1807, for three years; the two first to be free from rent, and the lessee to have the privilege and preference (on his having duly complied with its stipulations,) of renewal at the expiration of his lease, which provision would serve as an encouragement to work the mines without waste; and leases should become void if not worked within nine months from the date thereof.
The lessee to be debarred from underletting or transferring
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any part of the lands leased to him, under the penalty of forfeiture of such lease.The improvements made by the lessee (buildings, works, &c.) to be repaid by government, or the succeeding lessee, at a fair valuation; but the United States not to pay, in any case, more than one half the produce of the rent which shall have been actually received.
The rate of annual rent to be one tenth of nett proceeds, to be paid in mineral, clean and prepared for smelting, or an equivalent in lead, quarterly or semi-annually, at some convenient place of depot, to the agent empowered by government.
The United States to have the privilege, of inspecting, through its agent, from time to time, the progress making by the lessees in their works, receiving an account of their produce; and to enforce, if necessary, a compliance with their engagements.
That security be required for the faithful performance of all leases.
That as soon as the leading or general information now collecting and arranging by this office, shall be consolidated, lessees be invited by public advertisement throughout the United States, upon the preceding conditions; in order that full information may be afforded, and a fair competition excited for rendering the mine lands of the United States productive, in the highest practicable degree, to the public revenue.
I beg leave to add, that this report would have been prepared sooner, but from the expectation of collecting, from other sources than the documents alluded to, some additional information; and that the officer recently sent from this department with your sanction to the mine land districts in Illinois, will probably furnish, within a few months, such further intelligence as may serve as a surer guide to future operations.
Respectfully submitted,
GEORGE BOMFORD,
Lt. Colonel on ordnance duty.
To the Hon. J. C. CALHOUN, Department of War.
ORDNANCE DEPARTMENT, 3d May, 1822.
I certify the foregoing to be a true copy from the original report rendered to the department of war.
GEORGE BOMFORD,
Lt. Colonel on ordnance duty.
Form of a Lease of Mine Lands, proposed by the Ordnance Department, in the case of Carneal and Johnson.
THIS INDENTURE, made and entered into this -- day of -- 1822, between -- , agent for the government of the United
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States, of the one part, and Thomas D. Carneal and Benjamin Johnson, of the state of Kentucky, of the other part. Witnesseth, That the said agent, as aforesaid, for and in consideration of the rents, covenants, and agreements hereinafter mentioned, doth by these presents grant, demise, lease, and to farm let unto the said Carneal and Johnson, their heirs and representatives, one hundred and sixty acres of land, the property of the United States, lying and being in the state of Illinois, and in the vicinity of Rock river, to be more particularly located as hereinafter mentioned. To have and to hold the said land and premises, with its appurtenances, unto the said Carneal and Johnson. their heirs and legal representatives, for the full term of three years from and after the time the said land shall be designated, and the mining and manufacturing of the lead therein commenced by said Carneal and Johnson, their heirs, &c. upon the considerations following, to wit: That the said Carneal and Johnson shall, during the continuance of the aforesaid term of three years, be at liberty to dig for, and take from any part of the said land, as much lead ore as they may think fit; also to erect thereon such buildings and works for the manufacture of lead, and for the accommodation of those who shall be engaged in the establishment, as in their opinion the success of the undertaking may require. Said improvements to be valued at the termination of this lease, and to be paid for by the United States, or by the subsequent lessee, if rented to any other than the said Carneal and Johnson: Provided, that the United States shall not pay more for said improvements than one half of the amount of lead which shall have been previously received by government on said lease. Secondly; That inasmuch as the precise ground cannot be selected at this moment, it is hereby covenanted and agreed between the parties aforesaid, that the said Carneal and Johnson shall make a selection of the precise ground they mean to occupy, and commence the working of the lead mines upon said land within the period of nine months from this date; and upon failure to make such selection and to commence such work within the time herein prescribed, this lease shall be null and void. Third: That said Carneal and Johnson shall have the benefit of said mines for the term of two years, free from the payment of any rent whatever; and said Carneal and Johnson engage and bind themselves and heirs to pay to said agent aforesaid, or to his order, or to the order of the government, one tenth part of all the mineral which shall be collected from said mine or mines of lead during the third year of this lease, quarterly or otherwise, as said agent or the government may require, the mineral to be clean and prepared for smelting, to be delivered at the works upon the land, to said agent, or any agent of the government. Fourth: That the said Carneal and Johnson shall be at liberty to clear, enclose, and cultivate any part of said land, from whence the wood shall have been taken for said lead works; but they shall cut no timber but what shall be necessary348
for buildings, fencing, and the operation of said manufactory; and generally shall commit no waste. Fifth: That the said Carneal and Johnson engage to render to said agent, or the government, a quarterly account of all the minerals raised at the digging or diggings in which they may engage. Sixth: The United States shall at all times have the privilege of inspecting the operations and hooks and papers relative to working said mines, or any of them, by the said Carneal and Johnson, on the lands aforesaid, to ascertain the quantity of lead manufactured by them, or to demand a compliance with all the conditions stipulated herein.It is also hereby conditioned between the parties, that this lease shall not in any manner interfere with any previous lease, if such lease should be in operation, otherwise that said Carneal and Johnson have the right to make the location of the said one hundred and sixty acres of land, and when so located, the same shall be meted and bounded by the agent of the government of the United States, whenever he shall be sent for that purpose, and his report of the metes and bounds shall be the boundary of said Carneal and Johnson. It is further expressly stipulated and agreed upon between the contracting parties hereto, that the said Carneal and Johnson shall not in any manner make sub-leases of the premises, under the penalty of a forfeiture of the lease; and it is also expressly agreed and stipulated, that the said Carneal and Johnson shall have the privilege or right to renew the lease at the termination of the three years as aforesaid, and the said agent agrees to give the preference to said Carneal and Johnson, for said renewal, over all other persons; provided the stipulations and conditions of this lease be complied with by said Carneal and Johnson.
Signed, sealed, &c. &c.
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LISTS OF ROADS AND DISTANCES FROM ST. LOUIS.
From St. Louis to Washington City.
Graham's | 16 |
Thompson's, [Shoal creek] | 25 |
Kaskaskia river | 9 |
Young's | 20 |
Brinberry's | 20 |
Little Wabash | 20 |
Fox river | 10 |
Gatewood's | 12 |
Higgins's | 10 |
Vincennes | 15 |
Liverpool | 22 |
Shott's on E.fork White riv. | 18 |
French lick | 12 |
Chambers's | 16 |
Davis's | 16 |
Louisville | 19 |
Middletown | 12 |
Caplinger's | 14 |
New-Castle | 14 |
Simpson's ferry [Ky. riv.] | 12 |
Eagle creek, [Sanders's] | 11 |
Stewart's | 15 |
Big Bone | 10 |
Covington, opposite Cincin. | 20 |
Columbia | 6 |
Newtown | 4 |
Batavia | 10 |
Williamsburg | 6 |
Florence | 12 |
New-Market | 10 |
Willis's | 22 |
Bainbridge | 6 |
Denny's | 8 |
Chillicothe | 10 |
M'Coy's | 6 |
Craig's | 6 |
Pursley's | 11 |
New-Lancaster | 11 |
Canaway's | 8 |
Beard's | 10 |
Zanesville | 12 |
Brown's | 9 |
Morrison's | 5 |
Spear's | 4 |
Will's creek | 3 |
Henry Beamer's | 6 |
Smith's | 6 |
Wherry's | 5 |
Enlow's | 8 |
M'Donald's | 9 |
St. Clairsville | 7 |
Wheeling | 10 |
Reefer's | 6 |
Alexandria | 10 |
M'Cracken's | 7 |
Washington | 10 |
Cannonsburg | 7 |
Pittsburg (Total to P. 662) | 18 |
Findley's | 9 |
Ginger Hill | 11 |
Brownsville | 13 |
Uniontown | 12 |
Stark's | 6 |
Clemment's | 6 |
Clark's [forks of roads] | 4 |
Smith's, at Bridge | 7 |
Bough's | 1 |
Simpkins's | 7 |
Tomlinson's | 11 |
Musselman's | 10 |
Gwin's [forks of the road] | 5 |
Crissapstown | 4 |
Frankford | 9 |
Springfield | 6 |
Coxe's | 9 |
Gale's | 6 |
Higgins's, at Great creek | 5 |
Rogers's | 6 |
350
Ronomie's | 3 |
Pewton | 6 |
Winchester | 9 |
Charlestown | 22 |
Key's ferry | 5 |
Hillsborough | 8 |
Lacey's | 8 |
Leesburgh | 6 |
Hummer's | 12 |
Willey's | 10 |
Fall's church | 6 |
Potomac Bridge | 8 |
Georgetown | |
Washington City | 2 |
Total from P. to W. C. 254 miles -- from St. Louis to W. C. 916 miles.
St. Charles | 20 |
Coonts | 9 |
Pond Fort | 12 |
Journey's | 15 |
Camp Branch | 12 |
Williamson's | 15 |
Loutre lick | 7 |
Ward's | 14 |
Watson's | 6 |
Cedar creek | 20 |
Estell's | 4 |
Grayum's | 10 |
Thrall's | 10 |
Arnold's | 5 |
Franklin | 15 |
Chariton | 22 |
Ferril's ferry | 12 |
Fort Osage | 69 |
Total | 276 |
St. Charles | 20 |
Gasconade river | 79 |
Osage river | 33 |
Manitou river | 51 |
Kansas river | 158 |
River Platte | 260 |
Bend of the river | 209 |
Big Sioux river | 44 |
White Stone river | 65 |
Upper part of great bend | 284 |
Fort Mandan | 398 |
Little Missouri river | 90 |
Yellow Stone river | 190 |
Portage at great falls | 695 |
Dividing ridge of the rocky Mountains | 68 |
Clark's river | 104 |
Columbia river | 168 |
Lewis's river | 73 |
Great falls of Columbia | 306 |
Pacific ocean | 261 |
Total | 3556 |
Mrs. Ford's | 20 |
Prairie du Rocher | 25 |
Kaskaskia | 15 |
Bowerman's | 16 |
Cox's | 20 |
Jordan's | 40 |
Saline | 25 |
Shawneetown | 25 |
Total | 186 |
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Mrs. Ford's | 20 |
Prairie du Rocher | 25 |
Kaskaskia | 15 |
Bowerman's | 16 |
Cox's, at Beaucoup | 20 |
Jackson's, at Little Muddy | 12 |
Big Muddy | 12 |
Griffith's | 16 |
Simpson's, on Big Bay | 22 |
Ferguson's old ferry | 20 |
Salein in Ky. | 15 |
Centreville | 9 |
Mrs. Prince's | 16 |
Hopkinsville | 27 |
Level's | 15 |
West's | 17 |
Nashville | 32 |
Franklin | 18 |
Bond's | 8 |
Elisha Rhodes's | 14 |
Dr. Gordon's | 10 |
Keg spring | 8 |
Dobbins's | 9 |
Grinder's [line] | 6 |
M'Clish's | 3 |
Indian house | 13 |
Factor's son | 5 |
Indian house | 5 |
ditto | 14 |
ditto | 4 |
ditto | 6 |
G. Colbert's [T.] | 10 |
Levi Colbert's | 7 |
Underwood's, b. c. | 5 |
Good spring | 12 |
Tushcacuta | 12 |
Brown's | 6 |
Ahbachatubbe | 15 |
Factor's | 4 |
Indian house | 3 |
Glover's | 2 |
Jefferson's | 11 |
Pulcher's | 1 |
Kempe's | 3 |
Allen or Colbert's | 8 |
M'Gee's | 8 |
G. Pettigrove's | 8 |
Perry's son | 7 |
Underwood's | 10 |
Wall's line | 8 |
Fulsom's jr. | 11 |
Black's | 5 |
Mitchell's | 8 |
Nelson's | 2 |
M Curdy's | 3 |
Leo. La Flour's | 7 |
Harkin or Long's | 5 |
M'Comen's | 6 |
Buchannan's | 1 |
M. La Fleur's | 1 |
Shoat's | 12 |
Anderson's | 6 |
Cranden's | 12 |
Norton's | 14 |
Kenney's | 12 |
Ward's | 4 |
Brashier's | 14 |
Dinsmore's | 4 |
Osborne's | 8 |
Burrows's | 10 |
Hay's | 5 |
M'Raven's [line] | 26 |
Robinson's | 9 |
Grindstone Ford | 9 |
Gibson Port | 8 |
Trimble's | 9 |
Greenville | 12 |
Union Town | 6 |
Seltzer's Town | 6 |
Washington | 6 |
Natchez | 6 |
Total to Natchez | 819 |
Marine settlement | 25 |
Greenville | 22 |
Vandalia | 18 |
Total | 65 |
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Illinois river | 30 |
Salt river | 103 |
Hurricane settlement | 36 |
Riviere des Moines | 64 |
U. S Agricultural estab. | 16 |
Sac village and prairie | 40 |
Largest Sac village | 100 |
Rock river | 1 |
Lead mines | 127 |
Turkey river | 25 |
Ouisconsin river | 68 |
Upper Iowa river | 40 |
Lake Pepin | 121 |
Falls of St. Anthony | 10 |
Dirkson's wint. ground | 122 |
Pike's blockhouse | 71 |
River de Corbeau | 64 |
Pine river | 72 |
1st settlement of N. W. Co. | 20 |
2d do. do. | 81 |
3d do. do. | 40 |
Falls of Pakagama | 15 |
Lake Winnipeck | 45 |
U. Cedar lake and settlement of N. W. Co. | 15 |
Total | 1418 |
Mouth of the Missouri | 20 |
Mouth of the Illinois | 25 |
Evelin's | 25 |
Apple creek | 24 |
Robison trading house | 12 |
M'Kee's creek | 22 |
Hens' trading house, near mouth of Crooked creek | 24 |
Moreau's trading house | 24 |
Otter creek | 6 |
Constant trading house | 18 |
Fort Clark | 45 |
Total | 245 |
nts
Notes.
I cannot omit noticing a remark made upon this subject by the reviewer of Mr. Schoolcraft's Journal. It is as follows; "Mr. Schoolcraft his attempted to estimate the height of the sources of the Mississippi above the level of the sea, which he makes to be thirteen hundred and thirty feet The basis of his calculation is the altitude of Lake Erie, as determined by the canal commissioners which is five hundred and sixty feet above the tide waters of the Hudson, to which his estimate adds ten feet for the rise to St. Clair, nineteen to Huron, fifty-three to Superior, making the last six hundred and forty-two above the same level, from this to Sandy lake, the rise is five hundred and twenty-seven feet, and from that to Cassina one hundred and sixty two feet. If this estimate be correct, or nearly so, and the length of the Mississippi as he gives it, three thousand and thirty eight miles, its average descent per mile is about three feet." -- North American Review, No. 86.
It is difficult to determine by what course of calculation the reviewer arrived at the result her given, which should hate been about G inches, instead of "about three feet."
"Left Vincennes on the 29th May, with a due north line, which last leaves the northwest shore of the Wabash, 46 miles from Vincennes, from which point commenced the line dividing the states of Indiana and Illinois. The country is mostly well timbered, and soil good for the distance of 45 miles. After crossing the Vermilion a few miles, intersected the Grand Prairie the first 25 miles of which is good dry soil, afterwards it becomes either broken and poor, or low and marshy. Two branches of the Kankakee river pass through the Grand Prairie. At 123 miles from where we left the Wabash, we came to the main Kankakee, three chains wide, and navigable for craft of considerable burthen. North of this stream lie a chain of almost impassible ponds, which lie nearly parallel with the river far the distance of 50 or 60 miles, and from 3 to 5 miles wide. From these ponds to Lake Michigan, the distance of 36 miles, the country is most generally poor sandy ridges, covered with scrubby oak timber and whortleberry bushes, or low, marsh prairies."
Col. Berry, of Vandalia, obligingly furnished me with a copy of the above survey.
"From every appearance, the piece of copper seems to have been taken from a mass that has Undergone fusion. The melting was, however, not an operation of art, but a natural effect caused by a volcanic eruption.
The stream of lava probably carried along in its course the aforesaid body of copper, that had formed into one collection, as fast as it was heated enough to run, from all parts of the mine. The united mass was probably borne in this manner to the place where it now rests in the soil."
Phillips' Meneralogy, Amer. Ed. P. 191, note.
Commissioners have also been appointed by the general assembly, for the purpose of making a election of six additional salt springs, with six section of land adjoining each, in pursuance of the above act of congress; who are to report 10 the next general assembly.
"The violence of the different earthquakes is best indicated by their efficiency in altering the structure of the more superficial parts of the earth, and in agitating, subverting or destroying the bodies which they support. On a comparative scale, formed from such remarks, at this place, the first shock of the 16th December 1811, that of 23d January 1812, and the first on the 7th of February, occupy above the rest a decided elevation, and constitute the first class. To the second class belong, the shock at 20 minutes past 7 o'clock A. M. December 16; that on the 27th of January; and that at 40 minutes past 10 o'clock P. M. on the 7th of February. Of the remainder, one half, by estimalion, may be referred to a fourth class, composed of those which were felt only by persons not in action, and the remainder will constitute a third class, of intermediate violence. The numerous tremors and ebullitions that were detected by pendulums, and the delicate sensations of a few nice observers, when at perfect rest, may constitute the fifth and lowest order of these multiplied agnations."
The author then makes the following general remarks:
"1. The original focus of these concussions was the valley of the Mississippi, between New-Madrid and the Little Prairie, in north latitude 36 degrees, and west longitude from Washington 12 degrees 30 minutes; but after the second year of their duration, it seems to have ascended the Mississippi to the Ohio, and then advanced up that river about 100 miles, to the United States' saline; at which place shocks have been felt almost every day for nearly two years.
"2. They were vastly more numerous, during the same period, on the Mississippi than the Ohio. Not a single day passed, from the 16th of December to the ensuing summer, without several shocks along the former of these rivers. Even at St. Genevieve, 200 miles above the principal scene, during a period of seventy days, D. Roe, Esq. counted more than 100 shocks.
"3. The shocks at Cincinnati, which have been referred to the first and second classes, were generally the most violent on the Mississippi.
"4. The kind of convulsion on the Mississippi, was different from that experience here. The latter, it has already been stated, was generally an undulation; the former, from the most authentic reports, appears to have been a vertical explosion. The cause acted directly upwards, and elevated to the surface of the earth, sand, and various extraneous fossils, which had been buried in the alluvion of the river for unknown ages.
"5. The convulsion was greater along the Mississippi, as well as along the Ohio, than in the uplands. The strata in both vallies are loose. The more tenacious layers of clay and loam spread over the adjoining hills, many of which are composed of horizontal limestone, suffered but little derangement.
"6. All the principal shocks on the Mississippi, were attended or preceded by an explosive sound; which the people of that region denominate subterranean thunder. This noise was generally heard to the southwest -- which my correspondent, the honourable Stanley Griswold, (who has made many observations on these phenomena,) ascribes to the ground in the vallies of our rivers being lower in that direction.
"7. The stronger shocks of this great series were felt in every part of the U. States; and their violence was generally in the inverse ratio of their distance from the focus. Earthquakes were experienced, also, during the same years, but not on the same days, in Europe, the West Indies, and South America.
"8. As some lime-pieces are set to solar, and others to mean time, and as most of them are inaccurate, it is difficult to determine the precise date of any of the shocks; but from the best information that can be collected, their absolute time, in different parts of the United States, was the same, or nearly so.
"9. The shocks at the United States' saline, for a year past, have, as before stated, been almost daily; and are frequently attended with a loud noise under ground. But they are so circumscribed in their geographical extent, that but few of them are felt even at Shawneetown, on the bank of the Ohio. only 12 miles distant. As late, however, as the month of June of the present year, several of these concussions were so violent as to be felt at the place just mentioned, at Kaskaskia, and on the Wabash river, 40 miles from its confluence with the Ohio.
"The following formula contains the elements to reduce one to the other, viz. 605 arpents make 512 acres, stated thus: -- If 605 ar.: 512 ac.:: 100 ar.
"The arpent is used also as a measure of length, being 180 feet or 30 toises French, equal to 192 feet, English or American, nearly." Barby's Emigrant's Guide.